Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc.
Posted by radus
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Re: Sitall Glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. December 06, 2014 08:37AM |
Hi.
Im testing Sitall Glass.
Testing with August 2013.
Daily print for several hours.
At the moment, the Adhesion is not deteriorated.
Printing ABS, HeatBed 110с.
Glass is not processed. You may print directly onto glass. Kapton, glue stick, hairspray or adhesive tape were not used.
Now the Sitall glass can be ordered on www.unique-3d.com
-Ф152mm, h-40mm,
-ABS
-HeatBed t-110c
-HotEnd t-240c
Im testing Sitall Glass.
Testing with August 2013.
Daily print for several hours.
At the moment, the Adhesion is not deteriorated.
Printing ABS, HeatBed 110с.
Glass is not processed. You may print directly onto glass. Kapton, glue stick, hairspray or adhesive tape were not used.
Now the Sitall glass can be ordered on www.unique-3d.com
-Ф152mm, h-40mm,
-ABS
-HeatBed t-110c
-HotEnd t-240c
|
Re: Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. December 06, 2014 04:40PM |
This Sitall Glass is used only together with the HeatBed.
Printing ABS
HeatBed t-110c
Printing PLA
HeatBed t-60c
About Brim
At this VIDEO without a brim.
Soon will be a video where PLA without brim.
Brim use only for big ABS products.
ABS has a really high coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). That is the amount that it shrinks and grows when heated and cooled. ...
The more material there is, the higher the forces are for the warping. So, larger models and higher infill models have more trouble.
What's different with this glass compared to ordinary borosilicate.
One of the issues in getting quality prints in your extruded 3D Printer to stick product to the bed when printing. In most 3D printers used ABS plastic and required HeatBed.
Printing directly on the HeatBed is not recommended, therefore, to protect it put borosilicate glass. But plastic doesn’t want to adhere to bare borosilicate glass, so you will need to do something about that.
If it comes lose or warps up, you can imagine this will seriously reduce the quality of the print product.
Bed adhesion methods:
1. PET or Kapton
2. Scotch Blue painter’s tape
3. ABS Juice directly on the glass. ABS “juice” is ABS dissolved in acetone.
4. Glue Stick and Hairspray.
5. Sitall Glass U3D - This is the best option.
1. PET or Kapton
Looking at freshly covered build platform, I have to say the Kapton tape looks great, but it was hard to accomplish.
The super thin tape is hard to handle and challenging to apply the first time without air bubbles.
With a properly calibrated printer, Kapton tapes performs well and makes a great surface for most prints. Its super smooth surface does bond with your models,
but even the slightest inaccuracies in your build platform’s calibration will quickly show themselves.
All adhesive tapes, electrical tape and scotch tapes have a special glue. This Glue does not dry out. For large volumes of printing kapton tape quickly come unstuck, damaged and formed the bubbles.
We did fourteen products before needing to change out the Kapton tape.
2. Scotch Blue painter’s tape.
Blue painter’s tape. Is a highly cost effective alternative. For a long time, many 3D printer users have reported great results from Blue painter’s tape.
The hardest part about the blue tape was lining up the two strips needed to fully cover the build platform.
But the ease in which the tape can be removed and readjusted made the process painless.
Despite its rougher texture, painter’s tape is incredibly durable and can be used many times over before needing to be replaced
Like Kapton, Blue painter’s tape is great for holding down models. During printing, the texture of its surface helps, giving a little something for the model to bond with.
Where Kapton tape caused your print to show if your calibration is out a little, painter’s tape still held everything down and got the job done.
We did only 4 products before needing to change out the painter’s tape.
Sadly caused the paper surface stuck to the bottom of the print and tore off on print 4.
3. ABS Juice
While this is the most secure, it sure sounds like a nasty smelly mess.
ABS Juice is very easily the best method of bed adhesion, but it is also easily the biggest pain for both clean-up and for print removal.
Be aware that too much Juice (or too thick a concentration) could potentially lead to you breaking your glass trying to remove the part.
4. Glue Stick and Hairspray.
One of the less conventional (and messier) ways to help your models stay stuck to your build plate is the use of Hairspray or Glue Stick.
Using hairspray or Glue Stick to add an extra layer of ‘stickiness’ to your build plate is a quick and easy process.
Before you send your model to be printed, use the Glue Stick or Hairspray to dust over the build plate, spraying a little at a time.
It’s best to add more hairspray by adding layers if needed and much easier than removing excess if you add too much.
5. Sitall Glass U3D
Print on Sitall glass U3D without any kapton, blue tape, hair spray, e.t.c...
Use glass only !
Not even removing dust before printing.
Printing on Sitall Glass U3D from good adhesion.
Printing ABS, HeatBed 110с. Glass is not processed. Kapton, glue stick, hairspray or adhesive tape were not used.
The product are sticking very tightly. Its hard to rip even with significant force. When printing will ends and HeatBed cools to 80C, model will unstick by itself.
We recommend you to use Sitall Glass to save your time and get perfect results from beginning to end.
Very important:
For use Sitall Glass and good adhesion you need to have properly calibrated printer.
Unique-3d
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2014 05:16PM by ylvov.
Printing ABS
HeatBed t-110c
Printing PLA
HeatBed t-60c
About Brim
At this VIDEO without a brim.
Soon will be a video where PLA without brim.
Brim use only for big ABS products.
ABS has a really high coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). That is the amount that it shrinks and grows when heated and cooled. ...
The more material there is, the higher the forces are for the warping. So, larger models and higher infill models have more trouble.
What's different with this glass compared to ordinary borosilicate.
One of the issues in getting quality prints in your extruded 3D Printer to stick product to the bed when printing. In most 3D printers used ABS plastic and required HeatBed.
Printing directly on the HeatBed is not recommended, therefore, to protect it put borosilicate glass. But plastic doesn’t want to adhere to bare borosilicate glass, so you will need to do something about that.
If it comes lose or warps up, you can imagine this will seriously reduce the quality of the print product.
Bed adhesion methods:
1. PET or Kapton
2. Scotch Blue painter’s tape
3. ABS Juice directly on the glass. ABS “juice” is ABS dissolved in acetone.
4. Glue Stick and Hairspray.
5. Sitall Glass U3D - This is the best option.
1. PET or Kapton
Looking at freshly covered build platform, I have to say the Kapton tape looks great, but it was hard to accomplish.
The super thin tape is hard to handle and challenging to apply the first time without air bubbles.
With a properly calibrated printer, Kapton tapes performs well and makes a great surface for most prints. Its super smooth surface does bond with your models,
but even the slightest inaccuracies in your build platform’s calibration will quickly show themselves.
All adhesive tapes, electrical tape and scotch tapes have a special glue. This Glue does not dry out. For large volumes of printing kapton tape quickly come unstuck, damaged and formed the bubbles.
We did fourteen products before needing to change out the Kapton tape.
2. Scotch Blue painter’s tape.
Blue painter’s tape. Is a highly cost effective alternative. For a long time, many 3D printer users have reported great results from Blue painter’s tape.
The hardest part about the blue tape was lining up the two strips needed to fully cover the build platform.
But the ease in which the tape can be removed and readjusted made the process painless.
Despite its rougher texture, painter’s tape is incredibly durable and can be used many times over before needing to be replaced
Like Kapton, Blue painter’s tape is great for holding down models. During printing, the texture of its surface helps, giving a little something for the model to bond with.
Where Kapton tape caused your print to show if your calibration is out a little, painter’s tape still held everything down and got the job done.
We did only 4 products before needing to change out the painter’s tape.
Sadly caused the paper surface stuck to the bottom of the print and tore off on print 4.
3. ABS Juice
While this is the most secure, it sure sounds like a nasty smelly mess.
ABS Juice is very easily the best method of bed adhesion, but it is also easily the biggest pain for both clean-up and for print removal.
Be aware that too much Juice (or too thick a concentration) could potentially lead to you breaking your glass trying to remove the part.
4. Glue Stick and Hairspray.
One of the less conventional (and messier) ways to help your models stay stuck to your build plate is the use of Hairspray or Glue Stick.
Using hairspray or Glue Stick to add an extra layer of ‘stickiness’ to your build plate is a quick and easy process.
Before you send your model to be printed, use the Glue Stick or Hairspray to dust over the build plate, spraying a little at a time.
It’s best to add more hairspray by adding layers if needed and much easier than removing excess if you add too much.
5. Sitall Glass U3D
Print on Sitall glass U3D without any kapton, blue tape, hair spray, e.t.c...
Use glass only !
Not even removing dust before printing.
Printing on Sitall Glass U3D from good adhesion.
Printing ABS, HeatBed 110с. Glass is not processed. Kapton, glue stick, hairspray or adhesive tape were not used.
The product are sticking very tightly. Its hard to rip even with significant force. When printing will ends and HeatBed cools to 80C, model will unstick by itself.
We recommend you to use Sitall Glass to save your time and get perfect results from beginning to end.
Very important:
For use Sitall Glass and good adhesion you need to have properly calibrated printer.
Unique-3d
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2014 05:16PM by ylvov.
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Re: Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. December 07, 2014 06:24AM |
Quote
garyhlucas
I see mention of Kapton tape being difficult to put down with bubbles and wrinkles. Has anyone tried using soapy water and a squeegee like is used to put vinyl labels on? You can reposition the lables until you squeegee out the water.
Exactly, I use 'Glassex' it's a window cleaner that completely disappears in the air without traces. The cleaner also goes through the kapton and disappears, leaving the sticky side untouched. This way with a squeegee (I use an old employee card or a plastic student card etc) I can get all the bubbles from it. Also, by using only 100mm wide kapton, I need only 2 kapton pieces and I can effectively position them next to each other because they don't stick immediately.
Result, smooth:
http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/
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Re: Sitall Glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. December 08, 2014 07:42AM |
Well.. if he is the owner, he can always test his own products, sort of quality check 
http://www.i3d.ro
http://www.i3d.ro
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Re: Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. December 08, 2014 03:26PM |
Quote
Mlormans
Unfortually the shipping costs are about the same as the glass plate itself.
And a group buy isn't really an option, because with every product you add the shipping costs add also.
I print with glue stick at this moment, and i'm not disappointed by it.
After reading some tips about placing kapton on the glass I will try that later, because you don't need to replace it every print.
If the shipping cost could be reduced or there could be a group buy for the Netherlands I'm defiantly interested in the product!
I'm also in the Netherlands, but am not willing to be a guinea pig. First I want to see successful prints without brims! With PLA
I need to be persuaded by a 3rd party.http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/
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Re: Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. December 15, 2014 10:57AM |
On-Line Video Channel, 3D printing on Sitall Glass.
One of the users of 3D printers has launched an on-line video channel. The user is known in the 3D printer community and www.thingiverse.com site under the nickname Radus.
He designs useful modifications for Prusa i3 3D printer. You can see On-Line 3D Printing Video at 5:30pm MSK (GMT+3).
For those who want to build a 3D printer but has no parts.. Radus prints kit to build the Prusa i3 3D printer.
But if already have a 3D printer, but you want a more advanced and reliable 3D printer You can found Radus open-source modifications on the website [www.thingiverse.com]
Daily Radus prints a large number of products.
But fact was that the product was not sticky. Radus always used hairspray.
Before found the solution he have tried many options. Used a special substrate and Kapton. And many kinds of glasses.
But this did not satisfy him.
The problems ended when he began to use Sitall Glass. Printing ABS, HeatBed 110S. Sitall Glass is not processed. You may print directly onto glass, without cover Kapton Tape, glue stick, hairspray or adhesive tape.
The product are sticking very tightly. Its hard to rip even with significant force. When printing ends and HeatBed will cools to 80C, model will unstick by itself.
Radus On-Line Video Channel
More information about Sitall Glass and order it on the site www.unique-3d.com
One of the users of 3D printers has launched an on-line video channel. The user is known in the 3D printer community and www.thingiverse.com site under the nickname Radus.
He designs useful modifications for Prusa i3 3D printer. You can see On-Line 3D Printing Video at 5:30pm MSK (GMT+3).
For those who want to build a 3D printer but has no parts.. Radus prints kit to build the Prusa i3 3D printer.
But if already have a 3D printer, but you want a more advanced and reliable 3D printer You can found Radus open-source modifications on the website [www.thingiverse.com]
Daily Radus prints a large number of products.
But fact was that the product was not sticky. Radus always used hairspray.
Before found the solution he have tried many options. Used a special substrate and Kapton. And many kinds of glasses.
But this did not satisfy him.
The problems ended when he began to use Sitall Glass. Printing ABS, HeatBed 110S. Sitall Glass is not processed. You may print directly onto glass, without cover Kapton Tape, glue stick, hairspray or adhesive tape.
The product are sticking very tightly. Its hard to rip even with significant force. When printing ends and HeatBed will cools to 80C, model will unstick by itself.
Radus On-Line Video Channel
More information about Sitall Glass and order it on the site www.unique-3d.com
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Re: Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. January 13, 2015 12:15PM |
Hi
I have received a piece of this Sitall glass, I have had it about 4 weeks, and I have to say that once you have your machine dialled into it, it does work really quite well. Ive made a post in the General Section since it will give people a bit more awareness of the options in terms of printing surfaces.
However it does work, your bed needs to be level and achieve 110c on the heat bed. Im getting great adhesion with various forms of ABS (Carbon and nanotube ABS) and PLA sticks very easily aswell. I have also printed PET onto this but that stuck to well so ill use normal glass with glue stick which acts as a barrier from stopping the PET sticking too well, for PET prints,
If your sitting on the fence, with some spare cash, or considering whether to get Sitall since it is not as cheap as normal glass or mirror tile, you will be buying something that works as claimed. Just dont expect your first attempt to stick perfectly, youll have to get your machine dialed into it...ie correct bed level and Z height but once you do im sure youll be pleased with the results.
In terms of the cost issue, yes it is not cheap, but i have found that other non substrate printing plates now on offer are just as expensive if not more so, and some of them show a degradation over time. I have seen no degredation at all.
I no longer touch or handle my print surface. I heat up, print, allow partial cool down and print slides/lifts off allowing for quick reheat onto next print.
I have been printing with brim to be safe as it just peels off, you can print without brim, but ensure you use a skirt to make sure the hot end is primed before it starts the first perimeter of your print.
Ill be posting some pics in the next day or so of my glassy bottoms
I have received a piece of this Sitall glass, I have had it about 4 weeks, and I have to say that once you have your machine dialled into it, it does work really quite well. Ive made a post in the General Section since it will give people a bit more awareness of the options in terms of printing surfaces.
However it does work, your bed needs to be level and achieve 110c on the heat bed. Im getting great adhesion with various forms of ABS (Carbon and nanotube ABS) and PLA sticks very easily aswell. I have also printed PET onto this but that stuck to well so ill use normal glass with glue stick which acts as a barrier from stopping the PET sticking too well, for PET prints,
If your sitting on the fence, with some spare cash, or considering whether to get Sitall since it is not as cheap as normal glass or mirror tile, you will be buying something that works as claimed. Just dont expect your first attempt to stick perfectly, youll have to get your machine dialed into it...ie correct bed level and Z height but once you do im sure youll be pleased with the results.
In terms of the cost issue, yes it is not cheap, but i have found that other non substrate printing plates now on offer are just as expensive if not more so, and some of them show a degradation over time. I have seen no degredation at all.
I no longer touch or handle my print surface. I heat up, print, allow partial cool down and print slides/lifts off allowing for quick reheat onto next print.
I have been printing with brim to be safe as it just peels off, you can print without brim, but ensure you use a skirt to make sure the hot end is primed before it starts the first perimeter of your print.
Ill be posting some pics in the next day or so of my glassy bottoms
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Re: Sitall glass for heat-bed without any kapton, glue, etc. July 18, 2016 06:05PM |
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