Prusa i3 Complete Kit

Hi, I've been selling these for a while on ebay (/usr/gcolbourn) and eMAKERshop. eMAKERshop has the best prices, see the following links:

Prusa i3 (Aluminium Frame) Complete Kit - [www.emakershop.com]
Prusa i3 (LC Frame - wood) Complete Kit - [www.emakershop.com]
Prusa i3 (Aluminium Frame) Complete kit (no plastics) - [www.emakershop.com]
Prusa i3 (LC Frame - wood) Complete kit (no plastics) - [www.emakershop.com]

For those who have already purchased, or are otherwise interested, I attach the Marlin configuration.h file (and also thermistortables.h, which has an added table - 70 - for the 3dimensionshop hot end).

I also attached the stl files for the plastic parts I use (these are subject to change and will go on github at some point). They are compressed in zip files to get them under the size limit for uploaded files here. i3_xyze3 has all the parts apart from the extruder body, which is in e3.2 and should be printed in ABS for heat resistance (unless used with a hot end that is cold at the top). You can use Slic3r to split the parts up to take the ones you want.

You can download Marlin from here: [github.com]

Hi

The STL files appear to be missing in the zip file for the supplied X Axis Tensioner.

This part: [4.bp.blogspot.com]

I can't actually find one on Thingverse or Yeggi, maybe I am calling it the wrong thing?

Thanks very much
Kevin

Hi Kevin,

I find it's easier not to use those parts, so we don't include them any more.

We don’t include the bearing guides any more as we’ve found it works better without them: have 2 naked 624ZZ bearings for the y and 1 for the x, spaced with M4 washers as necessary. And the x tensioner isn't really needed.

You might be able to find them on Josef Prusa's github.

Cheers,
Greg

Updated parts attached. Changes:
- y corners slightly longer to avoid bed clearance issue (protruding bolts from bed corners not clearign frame)
- Extruder idler arm strengthened (made thicker).
- z adjustor built into x motor piece (put M3 bolt through it for easy adjusting of z height with an alan key (0.4 mm per full turn).

Updated parts attached. Change:
- x carriage M5 nut holes sunk in more to make attachment with M5x40 bolts easier

Updated parts attached. Change:
- Extruder body [e3.3.stl] - M5 mounting holes wider to make attachment with M5x40 bolts easier


configuration.h file updated to resolve DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER problem with Windows compilation.

Note that this file has

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

Which is the default for the E3D hot end. For the 3Dimensionshop hot end you want

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 70

(The original configuration.h file has the latter)

Hi gcolbourn,

I have recently bought one of your Prusas vie Ebay, (shame that i didnt know about emakershop, could have saved buck or two )
Ive got a big problem with compiling Marlin firmware though. Ive downloaded the latest Marlin firmware and config file and it still has that problem with DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER.
Ive tried all kinds of Arduino IDEs : old v.23 newest stable as well as newest beta. Still the same error :

Arduino: 1.5.7 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

planner.cpp: In function 'void plan_buffer_line(const float&, const float&, const float&, const float&, float, const uint8_t&)':
planner.cpp:663:34: error: expected primary-expression before ')' token
if (DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER) //enable only selected extruder
^
I am a moderate Arduino programmer, but i have no idea what to do. There is no error inside the code, as far as I can tell. It must be something hidden, Windows maybe.
I would appreciate your input, I need to change some parameters in Config file and since current firmware has no EEPROM support I cannot change any of them.

Thanks for any help.
Otherwise great product, good price.

Hi culfy,

This is a Windows problem. Have you used the latest configuration.h file (immediately above your comment) which has the line

#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER

in it? I was told by someone else using Windows that this fixed the problem.

Cheers,
Greg

Hi Greg,

thanks for a replay.
Yeah I used that very one.
Actually that one is used with the Prusa Ive got. I can tell by Extruder (E750), but it didnt solve the problem.
What are other suggestions? Compile under Linux? I would appreciate a help, because Extruder is about 10% off and printing results are not that good.

The firmware on the RAMPS you received will be identical all apart from the DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER line.

Linux will probably work. Mac definitely works, as that's what I use.

You can also alter the E-steps in gcode; e.g. can put

M92 E680

in Start G-code.

Thanks again.

Ill try some Linux machine, I dont have an Apple, but last few OSs are build on Linux core so it should probably work.

in Start G-code you mean in Slic3r Custom G-code section?

One non-related question if you dont mind.
I have noticed that before Prusa starts to print it goes up and down with Z but it goes too quickly for my taste, in a start G-code is;
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
Ive change that 5000 to 3000 but that applies only for the movement up, than it goes down but still, too quickly. Bottom line I was not able to find the speed for that down-movement. Ive looked inside the gcode and there was nothing. I am not that good with G-code, but again, its a pretty self explenatory format.
Any input?

Tom

Quote
in Start G-code you mean in Slic3r Custom G-code section?

Yes.

Quote
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

I don't have any lines like that in my gcode. Maybe take it out? All I have in Start G-code is:

G28 ; home all axes

You can control the max speeds and accelerations in configuration.h (although I've already slowed the z down from the default I think):

#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2500,2500,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

Hi Greg,

its gone, so it goes directly from Home position to printing position, no problem there.
Also M92 works fine as well.
I have yet another problem. I have measured all the axis with a precise calliper, and it all seems very good.
Than I have dowloaded a test cube 20x20x10 with one layer and printed results were 22,5x22,5x10 i dont know where the problem is.
I could change the M92 parameters for X and Y axle but since 80 and 80 is standard for Prusa I3 (because of timing belts and pullys) i am not very sure that is the correct way to go.
Another thing and than I will you bother no more
During printing the layers are not perfectly alligned (they are not laying exactly on each other). I dont thing that i am missing steps, just every few layers is one layer slightly shifted, the next one is good again. Although the frame is quite stable, could vibrations be the cause? Any tips?

Quote
culfy

Than I have dowloaded a test cube 20x20x10 with one layer and printed results were 22,5x22,5x10 i dont know where the problem is.

Forgot that one, I have checked it again and there is error in the model from Thingiverse, desctription says Cube 20x20x10 in a fact it is 22x22x10, all is well than.

Hi Greg - just tried compiling Marlin, get the same error as Cuffy in his post of 29 July - I've tried both versions of configuration.h that you've posted, both give the same error. I'm also using Win 7, no other option available. Looks like something possibly wrong with planner.cpp. ?
Any ideas?
Cheers...John

Solved it! after a google search on the planner.cpp error code 663 - regrettably, your updated configuration.h file is incorrect - it needs to have this line in it -

#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

- I think you missed the 'true' bit...

Cheers
John

Just beat me to it! Here's the updated version.

culfy,

Quote
During printing the layers are not perfectly alligned (they are not laying exactly on each other). I dont thing that i am missing steps, just every few layers is one layer slightly shifted, the next one is good again. Although the frame is quite stable, could vibrations be the cause? Any tips?

Make sure everything is tightened up, the smooth rods are oiled, and there isn't too much of a gap between the z threaded rods and the motors. Could be that the z threaded rods are not that straight? But it's a bit odd having one layer out of place and then the next in the correct place - that would suggest vibration.

Suggested Configuration.h settings for E3Dv6 hotend :

a) Thermistor

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5

b) PID settings

// E3D v6
#define DEFAULT_Kp 12.6
#define DEFAULT_Ki 0.66
#define DEFAULT_Kd 60.6

- see E3Dv6 assembly guide for more details, including a useful video on PID autotuning.

We don't use the Semitec thermistors, we use EPCOS.

PID seems fine (get's to temperature quickly), but might try those out..

Quote

We don't use the Semitec thermistors, we use EPCOS.

That's interesting - which thermistor did you supply with the E3Dv5 kit I bought from you in place of the standard head?

Hi Greg,

Bought one of your kits and upgraded to an E3D hot end. Very happy with the results.

Now wanting to print a spare set of plastic parts and downloaded the latest extruder stl, but I'm wondering about the block under the idler hinge and the hobbed bolt hole being closed.

Could you explain how I should print and clean up this part?

Many thanks and regards,

Berend Vosmer

Hi Greg,

The True statement i have already tried while before since I thought that could have been important.
But i brought me lots of other failures which all of them were LCD related. Here is the short snippet:
¨
C:\Users\Culfy\Documents\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal\LiquidCrystal_SR2W.h:151:79: error: 'POSITIVlE' was not declared in this scope
LiquidCrystal_SR2W (uint8_t srdata, uint8_t srclock, t_backlighPol blpol = POSITIVE);

I ve tried that with libraries, which are coming with Merlin, and without. No change.

Another thing wich i ve been stucked at. If I am printing some smaller and simpler stuffs like Endstop holder or Calibration cube i have no problem what so ever but then I have tried to print a Fan mount for extruder and during print middle layers (honeycomb 0,3) my extruder is not working properly. It makes wierd noises and skipping back and forth, i am most sure it looses steps. I tried to put little bit more current, no change, only driver got really hot. It happens only when extruder makes lot of rapid changes, esp. during printing middle layers. Could the ecceleration be the problem here'? If yes which one? starting ? default? or Jerkying for that matter? What are possibilities to change them without uploading newly compiled firmware.
Thanks for any suggestions I am really stucked and print results are far from good.

Berend, the hole covering is just support material to get the print to work properly, it can easily be cut out with a knife, or drilled out. To avoid warping and peeling, it's best to print with the "brim" setting in Slicer on.

Hi culfy, Are you using an LCD? Or is it just firmware errors? I've not seen those errors before. If using an LCD you need to have the correct one defined in firmware in the "//LCD and SD support" section/

Regarding the extruder skipping steps, do you have a fan pointing at the stepper drivers to keep them cool? Normally the Z is most in need of cooling, but sounds like your E could do with it too. Have you tried with the voltage turned up to max? The default settings for acceleration and jerk should be ok, but I guess you could try experimenting with them. Also, maybe try rectilinear infill, and see if that helps.

Hi Greg,
No I am not using LCD, and the support is switched off in the config file (by default).
I have tried to adjust Pots from min to max the Problem was still the same after a while (5 - 10 minutes of printing) starts to make strange noises and looses steps.
Its true that driver are getting really hot. I bought the complete-kit so I thought that it should handle the current. Non the less, Ill try to put some Big-Ass fan at the Ramps board and we will see, I think that could help a lot.
I will try that rectilinear infill and we will see.
Thanks.

Its a shame with that compilation though.

Ok, there is a 50mm fan included in the kit for the purpose of cooling the steppers.

You mean stepper drivers right?
I thought that fan was for hot end/filament cooling.
I ll change it than. Thanks.

So drivers were not overheating after all.
I have properly adjusted current with multimeter, all motorors running smoothly now with no problem no overheating at all. Fan is helping a lot.
Marlin seems to work under Linux no problem there.
But, there is that same problem with extruder that I cant shake off. As I described before after a while (2 - 10m) extruder starts to skipping back and forth. In that moment I stopped printing, all motors off, and I tried to manualy turn the big extruder wheel and I cant feel that the PLA makes a counter pressure (like its on a spring or something) i can feel that the pressure is building up and if I let go, extruder turns very quickly CCW (about 10 degrees, depending how much did I pushed). Some fillament is coming out bot not that much. Again this is happening after few minutes of printing, so I thought that is a temperature problem. I ve tried 180, 185, 190, 200, 210, 220 degrees C. All have ended up with the same result. The last one 220 was actually high enough to clog my Hot end completely.
I have tried Slic3r and Coda, same result. Ive tried different Exxx numbers, same problem. I have tried different printing speeds, extrusions speeds, Nothing..
Different accelerations, Nada. I have tried really everything that I could thing off or found on the Internet. I must say I dont know what to do more and I am very dissappointed with the printing results (they are none). And yes I have checked the hot end if there is a some problem (NO), I cleaned it completely, twice.
I bought the kit with 3Dimensionshop Hot end.
PLease does anyone know what could be the problem. I could make a video.