Prusa i3 Complete Kit

Oh right, I see that is still in my file from when we were using our old i3 box which is a T2.5/GT2 hybrid! I'll delete that line. Thanks for the heads up.

Hi,

I'm just finishing off assembling my RepRap i3 Box Frame from gcolbourn, and I have found the endstops were showing closed when they are open, I read that I can invert them in the configuration.h file, so I grabbed it from this thread along with the thermistortable.h files, added it to the master branch of Mendal from github ( [github.com] ) , compiled and uploaded.

There were a couple of compile issues, I had to add the following to the configuration.h which I just copied from the one that came in the repo:
#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0 //Enter the diameter (in mm) of the filament generally used (3.0 mm or 1.75 mm) - this is then used in the slicer software. Used for sensor reading validation
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

Once uploaded, the arduino reset and now just produces a high pitch tone, nothing displays on the LCD

Any ideas what could be wrong?

@gcolbourn how can I restore the default firmware? Do I need to use an older commit than master? I guess I shouldn't be unsing the development branch as the docs say there is a lot of refactoring going on in that branch.

Thanks

OK, so following on from above.. I'm making progress, seems the buzzing was from the speaker on the LCD board, the configuration didnt have the correct LCD selected. I've got that working now, the layout looks a little different, and the axes seem to have inverted. Would be good to get the current config, as the one attached to this thread seems to be out of date??

The latest one is here: [www.dropbox.com]

To invert axes you can change true to false in the lines:

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

in configuration.h (or reverse the plugs on the board)

Included in the dropbox link above is my (older) copy of Marlin that works.

Brilliant, cheers

First successful prints - a z-axis endstop bracket and a 20mm calibration cube.
The x and y axes are exactly 20mm but the z is only 19.3mm. I think I have the bed a tad too high and the first layer is getting compressed. It wasn't extruding much plastic until it moved onto the 2nd or 3rd layer.

Random question. So been printing happily for a few months now but i just noticed today the way I have my cables running is that very occasionally they are getting caught between hotend mount and Z threaded rods, no damage or anything but it has made me think. Has anyone found any good cable management solutions? Or have I just cable tied it to the wrong bit(top left corner)!

Quote
pierce
Random question. So been printing happily for a few months now but i just noticed today the way I have my cables running is that very occasionally they are getting caught between hotend mount and Z threaded rods, no damage or anything but it has made me think. Has anyone found any good cable management solutions? Or have I just cable tied it to the wrong bit(top left corner)!

I have mine arranged to lie over the top of the frame (see attached pic)

I might have to do something similar, I was trying to be all neat and everything so cabled tied both Z and X to top left corner. thanks for the picture! Good to see we both have the lovely orange version

I'm considering adding a drag chain to the kit for cable management. It should be fairly straight forward to mount between the x motor piece and the x carriage. And then have another length of loose cable from the x motor to the electronics.

I have added some printed holders for the x and y endstops as the switches weren't tight enough on the smooth rods.
The y-axis switch has been moved to the rear where it is activated by the metal bed base. I found this worked better with the small wheel removed like the z-axis switch.

The files for these are on Thingiverse [www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2015 01:11PM by tekkydave.

I've got different endstops in stock now for the kits, that (annoyingly) come with a little PCB attached. I've made these endstop holders for them (attached).

I have also rewired the PSU putting the power resistors on the inside of the case and heavier gauge wires to a connection strip. Only do this if you are competent with electronics and make sure you leave the PSU overnight so all stored energy has dissipated. I now have a single, longer cable from PSU to printer.

I have found that setting the filament dimensions accurately in Slic3r produces better results. Most 3mm filament is actually about 2.8mm. I also reduced the layer height a bit to get finer results. Takes a bit longer though :-)

I've also tried Octopi on a Raspi B+ to control my printer. Works great most of the time, frees up your PC, gives you web access and allows you to monitor your printer via a webcam.
[octoprint.org]

Most filament is 2.85mm from their spec's so that might give you even better results although always worth checking with calipers if you have them, I had a cheap roll that varied greatly.

I was printing with layer height of .4 as well until I tried Cura and it told me with a .4 nozzle I should do a layer height of .32(or something) as a maximum. although it takes longer at least it looks a bit smoother :-)

I am interested in octopi, is that using the raspberry pi camera attachment thingy or a USB webcam?
You seem to have made your setup look very tidy if your power supply is anything to go by!

Quote
pierce
Most filament is 2.85mm from their spec's so that might give you even better results although always worth checking with calipers if you have them, I had a cheap roll that varied greatly.

I was printing with layer height of .4 as well until I tried Cura and it told me with a .4 nozzle I should do a layer height of .32(or something) as a maximum. although it takes longer at least it looks a bit smoother :-)

I am interested in octopi, is that using the raspberry pi camera attachment thingy or a USB webcam?
You seem to have made your setup look very tidy if your power supply is anything to go by!

When I measured my filament with calipers it was 2.87. I also set layer height to .3 and even .25 with .4 nozzle and get great results.
The octopi can use a usb webcam or a raspi camera.

Cool Ill have to give octopi a go.

I posted this on reddit a month ago [www.reddit.com]
even .1 layer height works better than I expected (I was using .4 for over 2 months and still thought it was great). there are quite a few useful tips and tricks from peoples comments/critiques of the print that might help, who knew that smaller layer height it should be a bit cooler for example.

Quote
pierce
Cool Ill have to give octopi a go.

I posted this on reddit a month ago [www.reddit.com]
even .1 layer height works better than I expected (I was using .4 for over 2 months and still thought it was great). there are quite a few useful tips and tricks from peoples comments/critiques of the print that might help, who knew that smaller layer height it should be a bit cooler for example.

Octopi [github.com] is actually a ready-to-go image for the RPi which is an easy way to start with Octoprint. Otherwise you can start with a standard Raspbian image and install the Octoprint software.

I've been wanting to experiment with Octoprint for a while, with a view to offering it as an option on kits (i.e. add RPi to with it pre-installed to the kit). Cool that you've got it working :-)

I received my kit on thursday, and I've started trying to assemble it, but I'm having a problem trying to work out how the extruder is supposed to mount to the x carriage.
As far as I can tell, its supposed to just bolt on directly to the side, with the same bolts that hold the hotend in place. But that doesn't fit, the bolt that holds the extruder idler on is in the way.(see attached photos).
Am I doing something stupid here?

Yay you made the same assumption as me when I built this :-) You see the flappy hinge bit in picture 2, you have a bolt and then nut on the end, you just need a bolt that fits in, no extra nut, and it shouldn't stick out the other end. Seems illogically but works perfectly well and wont fall out at all.

also take a look at Greg's photo album here: [www.facebook.com] Makes life a lot easier getting some detailed pictures of what you are looking for.

Quote
deathterrapin
I received my kit on thursday, and I've started trying to assemble it, but I'm having a problem trying to work out how the extruder is supposed to mount to the x carriage.
As far as I can tell, its supposed to just bolt on directly to the side, with the same bolts that hold the hotend in place. But that doesn't fit, the bolt that holds the extruder idler on is in the way.(see attached photos).
Am I doing something stupid here?

If it helps this is what mine looks like. The bolts that attach the extruder to the x carriage also hold in the hot-end. Check you have the x carriage assembled correctly and it is the right way up. It took me ages to work it out :-)
Also make sure you fit the fan to the hot end and use it for your first print or even just testing. I was impatient and tried without it. I now have a hot end permanently welded into my extruder assembly. It works ok but I will be printing a new one at some point. The hot end will melt your extruder if you dont have than fan running.

Ah, that's got it!
Having a bolt with no nut on the end feels a little odd, but if it works, it works.

Thank you both.

Quote
pierce
Yay you made the same assumption as me when I built this :-) You see the flappy hinge bit in picture 2, you have a bolt and then nut on the end, you just need a bolt that fits in, no extra nut, and it shouldn't stick out the other end. Seems illogically but works perfectly well and wont fall out at all.

also take a look at Greg's photo album here: [www.facebook.com] Makes life a lot easier getting some detailed pictures of what you are looking for.

I just checked mine against Greg's photos again and my extruder is a mirror image of Greg's - very weird. It is the same way up as mine but the motor is on the other side. I don't think the images are flipped as the writing on the motors is correct. Greg - is the extruder in my kit different to the one in the FB pages?

If anyone is interested I have documented my build on the Stargazers Lounge forum [stargazerslounge.com]

Mine is identical to yours, and is the mirror image of Greg's pictures. mine is also in orange wonder if that means anything.

also my first few prints were mirror images because I had X and Y wired up wrong so its easily done :-)

Yeah, mine is mirrored compared to Greg's build pictures on facebook. Its the same way around as the photo on the emakershop listing though.

Quote
pierce
Mine is identical to yours, and is the mirror image of Greg's pictures. mine is also in orange wonder if that means anything.

also my first few prints were mirror images because I had X and Y wired up wrong so its easily done :-)

Yes I can see that now. I tweeted Greg when I was building it to confirm if it was correct. He replied to say it was so I'm confident mine is ok. Must have changed the design at some point.

A proper set of assembly instructions supplied with the kit would probably help. I hope documenting my build online helps anyone else who is building one or considering it.

Not a criticism btw Greg - it's a great quality kit and at at excellent price. Working in IT I know how hard it is to find the time to document things and keep it up to date. If you want a set of the pictures to use in your docs let me know and I can send you the full-quality ones.

Yup, that was my feedback to Greg as well. And since then he now has that facebook album of pictures which pointed out the things I had got wrong but somehow still all works!

Its great asking for a build guide but I know I never document anything at work unless audit are on me for it. Plus it is an open source model/design so I did find a few good links(I think I posted them earlier in this thread), But your detailed guide should be a good stopping point for anyone as well.