Azteeg X1 3DP 3D Printer controller now in stock

The Azteeg X1 is an Electronic controller for your 3D printer that is based on the the popular Sanguino/Sanguinololu with added features and mostly surface mount parts. It is pin to pin compatible with the Sanguinololu plus the addition of a FAN PIN for a small fan or sting of LEDs. Its has a separate port for an uSD adaptor like the SDRAMPS. The Azteeg X1 is compatible with any Arduino based firmware that the Sanguinololu runs on( Sprinter, Marlin, Repetier + others). The X1 is an open source board.

Those selected to tests the prototypes for a couple of weeks loved it and gave it a two thumbs up.

Whats in the Box?
- Azteeg X1 3DP controller board with Arduino Bootloader and Test Firmware
- 2 Pcs Heatsinks with small packet of thermal grease
- 1 set of right angle connectors (for Motors, End-stops and Thermistors)
- 1 set of Vertical connectors (for Motors, End-stops and Thermistors)
- 2 pcs. TVS suppresion diodes (16V SMB package) solders on bottom side when required
- 2 pcs of ATO/ATC fuses(5A and 20A)
- 1 set of matching connectors with crimp pins

Reprap wiki page

Order Page at panucatt.com

Available on Ebay

Who am I?
My name is Roy with a username royco, I am part of Panucatt Devices. Please check my references on ebay(username 14electrons) on our About page HERE.. Like us on facebook for updates.

Why such a low price?
I wanted to get it out in the open and Im banking on a good initial reception of the board that the price could benefit from a good volume discount. . The testers and the people that has seen the Azteeg X1 feels its a steal at that price and I was hoping you would feel that way too.

Thanks for looking and post here or email me if you have questions.

Roy

Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 05/06/2012 11:37PM by royco.

I am one of the testers. It works great.No issues.

the other Roy

Awesome!

Just picked one up for my first printer build..
Was going to assemble a sanguinololu, but this will certainly simplify things.

How about shipping to Russia? I want 5pcs.

bma8315 Wrote:
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> How about shipping to Russia? I want 5pcs.

You may now check shipping to Russia when you add it to cart. Should be around $27 for 5 units via USPS International Priority.

Thanks

Roy

Ordered one. Looking forward to it!

the automotive blade fuseholder is a neat idea! should put a red or orange led under it that lights up if it blows or something so the whole fuse glows.. a p-fet would drive it perfectly: source to pwr-in, gate to load, drain to led.

btw, if you use IRLB8743 or FDP8870 mosfets for extruder and bed, you won't need to heatsink them!

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Wooden Mendel
Teacup Firmware

I was using the FDP8880 on some of my earlier prototypes and run pretty cool as you mentioned but the 30V Vds is the limitng factor. Using a 12v supply is fine but higher than that killed some of them. A 24v TVS solved the problem but I wanted to rate my board for use with higher input voltages so I had to spec a Mosfet with a higher rating(with still a low 7mohm RDSon). And the heatsinks just look so nice in there.

Just a heads up to all those who pre-ordered. All the parts are starting to arrive including the PCB panels. Looks like everything is on schedule to ship the X1 by end of next week(fingers crossed).

You can still pre-order to get this awesome price. Pre-order kit includes mating connectors for stepper, Thermistors and endstops so you're ready to go!

Thanks for the update royco

thinking about upping my order from one unit to 2 or 3.. didn't know it came with endstops and the like.

Thanks for your order Davgov, it does not come with endstops. I think you might have confused it with the description of the mating connectors(sorry about that).

I suppose the pitch between the pins is the standard 0,1", if so, can I replace the white connectors by screw terminals ?

Yes, all those white connectors have 0.1" pin spacing.

Looks like something like this would work(I haven't tried it tho).
Terminal Block

Those look similar to the ones used on Gen 3. I actually prefer the plug in connectors as I've had more problems with the screw terminals with wires either coming loose or forgetting to tighten one of them.

Thanks, I ordered some on radiospares with a bunch of other things, I'll post a picture when it will be soldered

(I like the idea of a small sanguinololu with the ease of the screw terminals like on the Ramps/Melzi/4pi ^^)

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about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github

Received my board the other day. So far, it runs with Marlin with a SDRAMPS plugged in but without any motors, heaters or thermistors connected to it. I'm now deciding on whether to solder the right angle or straight connectors to it so that I can test the motors today.

Is the PCB size and the mounting holes the same as the Sanguinololu's? I was wondering if any of the Sanguinololu cases or trays would work with it without modification.

brnrd,

The holes are slightly off compared to the sanguinololu, current enclosures may not work. Im designing an enclosure/mount for it. Will post it here and on the website when its done.

Let me know how your test goes.

Thanks

Roy

Well, all the motors are working fine, but only the z motors weren't driving anything since I don't have pulleys and belts yet. I adjusted vref to 300 mv on all Pololus and they were fine even without a fan. But I still haven't soldered the connectors yet since I haven't decided which ones to use. The reason is I still can't make up my mind where to mount the controller.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2012 06:49PM by brnrd.

I decided to mount the Azteeg X1 on a bottom plate (ala original mendel) but on the front end of the printer so that the usb connector, reset button and uSD card slot faces out to the side. So, I've soldered the right angle connectors in.

Just received my board this morning !

And I've some quick questions (maybe these informations will be added to the wiki, or it can be good to add)

About the package containing the 5A fuse, a 8 pin connector and 2 little component (picture) :
- I figured that the 2 little things are probably the 2 pcs. TVS suppresion diodes (16V SMB package) solders on bottom side when required. But in which case it's required ?
- The 8 pin connector, from this picture is used for the micro-sd card addon ? But the legs are too wide to pass through the holes of the board (picture) and the one I have use female pins. Or is it for the expension part ? Here the holes are large enough (picture).
- and a last silly question, in which case the 5A fuse is used ?

Otherwise I already love it ^^

I'm guessing that the 5A fuse is for use if you don't have a heated bed.

The 8-pin connector is for L=Kliment's SDRAMPS which should come with pins that would mate with the sockets. I also found the legs to be too wide, but I was able to presuade them to go in.

Sorry guys for not updating the wiki for instructions, been busy this past few days trying to push all the pre orders out. Finally shipped the last one. Its now a stocked item. I will update the wiki tomorrow.

Brnrd is correct, The 5A fuse is used in case you dont have a Heated bed (20A fuse may not open in case of a short when using a low power supply)

The 8pin connector is for the SDRAMPS, I had to get a different part while Im waiting for the original connectors to show up, which unfortunately has fatter pins. Like Brnrd mentioned, it will go in with a good push.

The 2 TVS diodes are not required for normal operation but are recommended for better stability(for 12v supplies only)

Thanks Brnrd and Royco for the useful precisions, and no problem for the wiki

How do you wire up the 4 pin opto endstops to the 3 pin endstop connectors on the board?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2012 07:55AM by mchenetz.

do you mean this 4 pin opto?
4 pin opto

Check out the attached pic. Based on the spec sheet it should work but I have not tried it. You may have to play with the values.

Hope that helps.

I made a mounting bracket for my Prusa and uploaded it at thingiverse.com that others should find useful. Note that my z motors are mounted on the bottom so the bracket is shorter than it would be for a standard Prusa configuration.

Just an Update.

The Azteeg X1 is now available on ebay.

Azteeg X1 on Ebay

Okay, I bought one from eBay. Now I have a question about optical endstops and think it would be interesting to anyone considering these with your Azteeg.

First, I'd like to say that I very much like the design improvements over Sanguinololu. My favorites are: switching 5V regulator, xtal 16MHz instead of resonator, indicator lights for xmit and rcv on USB, indicator lights for mosfet output, jumper to select test 5V from USB, convenient reset button, and the big fuse on the 12V. FWIW, since it was otherwise assembled, I'd rather it arrived with connectors already installed but your idea of giving us a choice of direction is good, too.

I may be a little too careful, but when I read the schematic I found fuse F1 for the endstops has a 20mA value. I have three endstops and EACH draws 21mA untripped or 18mA tripped (which turns off the on-board indicator LED).

I think my endstops are typical, although they are my own design using the Omron EE-498 with a RRS-OE PCB that I got from Ultimachine. I like the idea of a bounceless endstop using a Schmitt trigger, so these parts fit. 21mA each seems reasonable. A 100mA fuse would seem much better and still protect against shorts. The fuse IDEA itself is another FEATURE, not a bug.

Is the fuse really 20ma as the schematic shows? It says A on top. If so, do I just jumper it or replace with a larger value (if I even CAN - my old eyes make smt very hard but your placement helps)? Will the 5V supply support 63mA of draw by the endstops without too much strain, if I do any this?

What do you suggest?

JED,

The PTC for the endstop is 120ma rated( I'll check the schematic, might be a typo) and they should be ok for your optical endstops. If it is turning off the power LED then your stops might be triggering the overload protection of the power supply which reacts faster than the PTC fuse. The 5v power supply can do 500ma.

Double check your opto stop for shorts or mis wiring and try connecting one at a time.

Several post up I posted a wiring diagram for an opto switch, check if its similar to what you have.

Thanks for the response. No, I have not yet connected my endstops - I was just reading the schematic BEFORE connecting, looking for potential problems. I had Gen7 electronics working with the endstops until my granddaughter's cat "marked" my machine while it was sitting on the floor waiting for its hot end. I have not been able to make the electronics reliable after that and will use the Azteeg as a replacement. The cat or my working on the board AFTER scrubbing it also killed all four of my Pololu A4988 boards. I'm still waiting for replacements to arrive.

Yes, the cat still lives and is even now watching me from across the room. My wife talked me out of catracide, reminding me of how the cat and the granddaughter are very close, as are my granddaughter and I. (she's 10 and got the kitten for her 2nd birthday)

I also still need to change the wiring and end connectors of the stepper wiring. Gen7 1.3.1 used a larger pin with .156" (3.96mm) pitch, good for 7A. I think Gen7 1.4 has just changed the connector, but I built a Gen7 1.3.1 that I etched myself.

I need to change the pin order for my endstops, too, now that I'm satisfied they will work. If the "fuse" really was 20mA, I would have saved the cables and made others with just two wires for the mechanical endstops.

Please also put PTC on the schematic, along with the correct rating. I would just have tested it, had I known what it was.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/05/2012 02:59AM by JED.