What do you need to make UV-curing resins?

Hi Fernando,

i'm on it ...

On monday i started on my new daytime-work, so some other problems have to wait, but on weekend i want to test with my children moulding the "Han Solo in carbonite" into the resin and then make some "Han's in chocolate"

With the remainders i'll try with your UV-activators and maybe with another probe of the transparent resins ...

Viktor

Oh so neat...
Somebody with writing credentials, acquired or hacked, has deleted the info on the chemicals post (Nº3).
I guess it's about time I get the info from this thread somewhere else, as I have the feeling this topic is not welcome here.

Sorry, i was being paranoïd!
It seems to be a bug that doesn't like special characters (Euro sign made it freak out and delite everything that followed.)
Thanks to Viktor for the hint!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/07/2009 04:17AM by Fernando.

... this wasn't a hacker but a software-bug - any special character in the post causes a truncation so the text after is been deleted

In the german forum all german umlauts ressulted in 95% truncated/senseless posts

Nobody seems to be able to repair this

Viktor

wow... ok, good you told me, I think its the euro sign that makes it freak out then!
I will edit the post right away.

BTW, nice to see you !

Hi Fernando,

... me too

How is you progress regarding UV-resins?

I'm actually more active with laser-cutting and stacking thin foils as in the LOM-approach.

My second 'active' construction area is defining/mixing self- or heat-curing pastes with waterglass, talcum and microspheres from glass or molten stone ... or hollow glass-spheres too.

This pastes are outputted at roomtemp, eventually cured with IR (or after completing tempered at 120°C-200°C in an oven) and can then withstand high temperatures fom 600°C (hollow spheres) until 1500°C (molten stone)

Viktor

Say guys I have been reading your notes and fascinated by knowledge. I am in the bathtub refinishing business. And am recently using UV coatings with a very expensive UV light to cure these coatings on tubs, counter tops and all kinds of surface. Much safer as you can imagine. Also more durable. Would you be willing to share your knowledge with me if I have questions in the future? And I am sure I will. Thx in Advance!

How about a brand name, how viscous is it, time to cure, etc?

Is it possible to make an aliphatic epoxy UV curable? I need this as a water resistant primer for high moisture areas. Thx in advance. Pete

It looks like the discussions here have kind of died down but I will post again anyway. The product I am using to refinish bathtubs contains Urethane Acrylate, Polyester Acrylate, Acrylate esters & Photo initiaors, if that helps any. What I am looking for is a way to insure the bond of this coating to porcelain. I am wondering if there is any type of silane adhesion promoter that will work? Any comments would be appreciated. Thx in advance.

Hi Starglaze,

where are you located?

I'm interested in other curable materials too - either UV or IR ... with IR (or heating) you'll have the advance of easier/cheaper sources.

This materials should have two major properties:
- long potting time for storage
- fast response when activated/cured

I'm searching fluid materials which can be stored months and curing-times in seconds to minutes ...

Viktor

Viktor, I've experimented with cyanoacrylate to get those properties. I've mixed gel cyano with water-thin to adjust dispensing viscosity, and have tried amine accelerator for instantaneous curing, and dusting with bicarbonate and talc, because I've read that it's hydroxide ions that initiate the cure. Cyanoacrylate is commonly available here in Australia at around 10 cents per gram/cm³, which isn't too expensive for something that's manageable and quick. I've also given thought to a machine winding cotton thread around pins and then soaking the cotton with cyano, because the adhesive kicks off quickly on contact with the cotton and could be used to very quickly "weave" a shell mold that could be removed and filled with epoxy or similar.

Murray

Hi Murray,

i need something thixotropic, maybe filled with talc or micro-spheres/balloons, what's stable for more than two days in the syringe but can be cured within some seconds by heat (e.g. diode-laser for punctual or IR-bulb for area) or UV ...

Viktor

Hi everybody,

This is quite a forum on UV materials. I am very interested in this subject.
Has anybody used this material for wood stabilization?
Appreciate your help.

Cheers,
Armando

Hi Armando,

maybe you can simply soak the wood-surface with a solvent of waterglass and water, so it's coated with silicate - this is mostly used to protect wood (or paper) against fire ...

Viktor

Does anyone know the UV intensity (at 365 nm) to excite the radical of benzophenone?

hey fernando!

i've two type on UV ink; UV curable ink and Uv conductive ink.
My problem is how to change the ink viscosity? What material should i use? really need low viscosity for inkjet printing...

... what's the formula of the inks?

You can add temperature or solvent ... but this could change the behaviour and UV-sensitivity drastically ...

Viktor

Hi VDX,
Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I almost forgot about this forum. I understand rapidshield.com has some interesting UV products for floors & countertops. I have been looking for coatings that can be rolled on then UV cured. Spraying them sucks. I am in California by the way. Thx.

AKA Pete. D.

... this rapidshield-stuff sounds interesting, maybe i'll order some samples when ready with my laser- and mini-lathe setups.

Last i was busy UV-curing with a PMMA-glue called Acrifix192 which reacts with UV-activating to PMMA but stinks and is highly flammable.

Maybe this RS-stuff makes better?

The question is the needed energy and the curing time or reacting time after activating ...

Viktor

You guys are welcome to join the BRAOA forum. It is mostly for Bathtub Refinishers, but we are all interested in the UV technology!

Hi
i have an auto glass welding shop and i import the uv resin from UK I HAVE the ingredients :
2-HYDROXYETHYL METHACRYLATE CAS NO. 868-77-9
Acrylic acid CAS NO 79-10-7
BUT I do not have the Composition ratios or where can i bay it
if any one can help please e-mail me to anesi2005@yahoo.com

I have a Auto Windshield Repair business, we repair small rock chips and small cracks by injecting a UV cured resin into in most cases a dime sized chip through a hole smaller than the tip of a bic point pen. I'm actually trying to learn more about the product we've been using and how to either make it myself or find someone like the people on this forum to make it for me. Currently I'm spending $85 for a liter of this stuff and wanting to cut my overhead a little and also re-sell it to others in my industry.

As far as I know (which isnt much) its some kind of polyurethane oligomer, photoinitiator, acrylate (meth) acrylate. I'm actually just reading off a few things i have printed off a well known and marketed glass repair resins MSDS. Ok now that i've proven how stupid i am, can someone please help me. If someone out there can make a product similar to ones used for windshield repair for me a little cheaper so i can market it or help me make it. I would be very interested I'm in Dallas Texas U.S. my email is gene.freerepair@yahoo.com

dear sir,

could you please let me know the wattage of uv light source required to cure uv varnish and the distance of source of light to the substrate.


thanks

anil

could you please let me know the wattage of uv light source required to cure uv varnish and the distance of source of light to the substrate.

This is more a 3D printing forum than an auto-glass repair forum ...

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-Sebastien, RepRap.org library gnome.

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Remember, you're all RepRap developers (once you've joined the super-secret developer mailing list), and the wiki, RepRap.org, [reprap.org] is for everyone and everything!

I need a inexpensive lamp that would cure a UV dry erase coating from Drytac…the spec mentions the following… Any help would be appreciated.
“Curing Properties
When properly cured, final film properties (full dry erase
ability) are available immediately after polymerization with
exposure to UV between 140 - 170mjs/cm.”

The most inexpensive UV lamp is a bit far away, but unbeatable in price (zero), power (a lot) and electricity consumption (zero): the sun.

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

Dear Fernando,
Thank you for your information. can I ask you which chemicals will be photoinitiators? which one start the curing process? which one will be activators and accelerators to make the curing reaction faster and which one still will be stabilizers to make the pot-life of the mixed resin longer?

Regards,
Nissan

Hi Nissan,

better follow/ask Fernando (spota) in the polymer-forum: [forums.reprap.org]

This thread was last updated one year ago ...

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Viktor
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hi spota
would it be possible to get your contact details as i would be very interested in your expertise ?
martin