3D Printing Newbie With a Fisher Delta

I've just got back from holiday, and eMaker have sent me a new cartridge heater with a higher resistance. All of the bed heaters they have in stock measure 3.3ohms, the same as mine does.

Working out the power draw, I didn't think it would work... but it has. I'm currently printing with bed set a 60c and the extruded at 205c, and it's fine.

I'm sure I didn't do anything different in the slicer (I'm using S3D). I've just added a new temp controller to the process, set as the bed on T1, and told it to only start printing once the temps have stabilised.

When the print starts, it heats the bed, then when it's steady starts heating the nozzle, homes, calibrates and starts printing. Seems to have cured the issue, when running a gcode file.

It still trips if you try and turn both heaters on full pelt at the same time via the web interface though.

Hi,
Thanks for the update, it sounds as though your setting up your slicer to do the same as I do manually. At least it works.
I was thinking of upgrading the PSU myself but then there is the question as to weather the board can take the power?
I'm sort of happy with the way it works now but hopefully emaker will read this and do something about it to save other users
the annoyance of sorting this out after failed prints and lots of head scratching - the power supply provided with the heatbed kit is just not up to the job !!

cheers,
Steve.

So, I ran out of the white filament that shipped with the printer. So I ordered a role of green, silver and blue filament from the eMaker website.

The green printed ok, after messing with the heat settings in simplify3D. I ended up with a hot end temp of 220 first layer, 215 subsequent layers and a bed temp of 70 degrees. With this I've managed to print a variety of parts. After running out of green, I've loaded the silver up... and its hit and miss on adhesion to the build surface (buildtak) - an did it does, I get bad curls in the first few layers as it contracts away from the bed.

Is it usual to have to start messing with settings for different colours of filament? It's the same brand as the green...

I've yet to get a definitive set of slicer settings that work first time every time. Be it slic3r or s3d... I thought I'd nailed it, but swapping over to the new spool I'm not so sure.

Different coloured filaments do require different temperatures and some require different feed rates. A good place to start is here:-

[www.voltivo.com]

I've found these settings to be a good 'sanity check' when dealing with different coloured/types of filament.

The .ini file is a simple text file and will open in notepad so you can look at them without affecting your slicer settings.