What to do after printing?

Hi, new to Fisher and not done the first print yet, was wondering what should be done when the print finishes? Does the hot end automatically cool down? Does the filament need to be removed from the hot end and if so should this be done hot cold or warm? I've seen the instructions upto printing but there's not much info for after the print completes, unless I've not found it yet.

If there's no official instruction from RRP what does everyone else do?

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geeksarebeta
Hi, new to Fisher and not done the first print yet, was wondering what should be done when the print finishes? Does the hot end automatically cool down? Does the filament need to be removed from the hot end and if so should this be done hot cold or warm? I've seen the instructions upto printing but there's not much info for after the print completes, unless I've not found it yet.

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geeksarebeta
If there's no official instruction from RRP what does everyone else do?

Hi!

So, I guess (others can correct if know a better way),

*Once you turn it in and make sure the fan is working and cooling in the right direction (see documentation) as well as hot end is working and heating.
*home the effector make sure everything moves in the right directions,
*Assuming that everything went up and stopped at end stop switches and came back down and that jazz, you would then probe the bed, from what others told me, you should do it till your deviation averages out (3-5 times)
*type in command M665 and record the info it desplays
*type in command M666 and record the info it displays.
*next, turn off your machine, and remove the microsd card and find the config file on it (in sys), open it up in a txt editor, find lines M665 and M666 (right on top of ea H other) and input the values you recorded from last step.
*save!
*re insert the microsd card and turn on your printer.
*home, everything and bed probe. Your deviation should be much better.
*next load some filament. Heat up nozzle, feed it in and let the motor take it. Extrude it until it starts coming out.
*load file to print and print!

Sooo in terms of what happens afterwards, it's up to the software you use. I use cura (because I have 2 ultimakers) and I had to do some editing of codes to ensure the end of the print behaved properly. Originally it turned off the hotend, ejected all filament (which I didn't want), homed the towers and dropped straight down and smashed my print.... Yeah, it was exciting.
So I edited the homedelta file in the SD card to change the dropping to 4mm every time the towers were homed and removed the command in the slicer that ejected all the filament.

So what slicer do you use?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2016 01:05PM by Sean.kennedy.

Hi Sean

Can you share your cura profile for the fisher, I briefly tried to create one but it wasn't good.

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Sean.kennedy
...
*next, turn off your machine, and remove the microsd card and find the config file on it (in sys), open it up in a txt editor, find lines M665 and M666 (right on top of ea H other) and input the values you recorded from last step.
*save!
*re insert the microsd card and turn on your printer.
...

No need to mess around with the SD card. Keep a copy of config.g, bed.g, homedelta.g etc. on your PC. To make changes to any of these files, edit the copy on your PC, then upload it to the SD card using the button on the Settings tab on the web interface.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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geeksarebeta
Hi, new to Fisher and not done the first print yet, was wondering what should be done when the print finishes? Does the hot end automatically cool down? Does the filament need to be removed from the hot end and if so should this be done hot cold or warm? I've seen the instructions upto printing but there's not much info for after the print completes, unless I've not found it yet.

In your slicer settings for the end gcode, put G28 followed by M0. G28 homes the printer to get the head out of the way of the print, and M0 turns off the heaters.

If you don't intend to print for several days, or you find that the filament becomes brittle if you leave it in the printer, unload the filament. Otherwise you can leave it in the printer. Don't turn the printer off until the hot end is reading below about 45C.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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DADIY
Hi Sean

Can you share your cura profile for the fisher, I briefly tried to create one but it wasn't good.

Here you go, i havent done anything with the start code, just edited the end code. PLEASE NOTE in the end code i put G28 to home, but only after i altered the homedelta file to stop 5mm down from the endstops. Making it so after turning off the hot end it would hit its highest limits and turn off everything from there to make room to remove the print.

feel free if you have any improvements or ideas for start code. i really like the idea of what the ultimaker does and move to an unused corner and extrude 2 cm of filament before coming to print the first layer.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2016 02:33PM by Sean.kennedy.

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dc42

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Sean.kennedy
...
*next, turn off your machine, and remove the microsd card and find the config file on it (in sys), open it up in a txt editor, find lines M665 and M666 (right on top of ea H other) and input the values you recorded from last step.
*save!
*re insert the microsd card and turn on your printer.
...

No need to mess around with the SD card. Keep a copy of config.g, bed.g, homedelta.g etc. on your PC. To make changes to any of these files, edit the copy on your PC, then upload it to the SD card using the button on the Settings tab on the web interface.

Thanks, thats good to know! I will love that ability when i get my duet replaced (my network port is toast.)

Thanks.

I know very little about Cura, But I assumed it would support a skirt to get the filament flowing.

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DADIY
Thanks.

I know very little about Cura, But I assumed it would support a skirt to get the filament flowing.

Yes it does, it's called a brim. I like cura, I've been using it for ages, though it's not without its issues. Slic3r doesn't like me. I'm trying this new katana one starting tomorrow, seeing I need my mac from work (it's only on mac).

Ahh. So it's a bit like Simplify3d. I like slic3r for simple parts. It does a good job. But for things like dearth Vader or models that need support I prefer simplify3d although I'm still battling first layer speed and height issues. I'm hoping cura might be a capable replacement.

Although I think the next job is to upgrade to the latest dc42 firmware which has fan control built in. So no more always on fan I hope.

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DADIY
Although I think the next job is to upgrade to the latest dc42 firmware which has fan control built in. So no more always on fan I hope.

If you want a controllable print cooling fan as well, you will need a Duet 0.8.5 to use this, because the Duet 0.6 has only one controllable fan output.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Dc42. Don't tell me the fisher 1 kit came with the duet 0.6??

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DADIY
Dc42. Don't tell me the fisher 1 kit came with the duet 0.6??

That is correct. The Duet was developed jointly by RepRapPro and Think3DPrint3D. They have gone their separate ways since version 0.6. I believe RepRapPro did version 0.7 and 0.8 prototypes, but didn't put them into manufacturing. Then T3P3 did the 0.8.5. I think RepRapPro has a version 1.0 in the works, but I know very little about it.

I just checked the Fisher build instructions, and there appears to be no print cooling fan. So you can use the FAN0 output of the Duet 0.6 to drive the hot end cooling fan under thermostatic control, by putting M106 P0 T45 H1 in config.g.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks. When my Fisher XT finishes its print I'm going to flip it over and try and find those pins. I'll let you know how I get on.

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DADIY
Thanks. When my Fisher XT finishes its print I'm going to flip it over and try and find those pins. I'll let you know how I get on.

Me too! I want in on this. Itz nice to have the option to have the fan off for first layer.

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Sean.kennedy

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DADIY
Thanks. When my Fisher XT finishes its print I'm going to flip it over and try and find those pins. I'll let you know how I get on.

Me too! I want in on this. Itz nice to have the option to have the fan off for first layer.

Don't do that. The hot end fan must run whenever the hot end is hot, or it will block. OTOH a separate print cooling fan is better turned off for the first layer.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2016 04:01AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

DC42 - Thank you so much for this firmware update, I can confirm on the Fisher connecting the fan to the FAN port and adding M106 P0 T45 H1 to config.g works perfectly, although I set mine to 35c.

As this is just on/off control I cant see why I can't put an 19v to 12v convertor on that port and change the fan to 12v. Especially now as the Fisher supplier is closed and finding a 19v fan appears to be impossible without buying 2000 from alibaba.

thanks again, youve made this house hold very happy.

Now to see if the upload speed is much better too

Thanks Sean but I still cant get cura to work, it doesnt set the print temperature properly and then runs really really slowly making lots of lovely musical tunes.

Out of interest in your machine setup are you using E-Steps = 0 and Reprap Marlin as gcode flavour?

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DADIY
Thanks Sean but I still cant get cura to work, it doesnt set the print temperature properly and then runs really really slowly making lots of lovely musical tunes.

Out of interest in your machine setup are you using E-Steps = 0 and Reprap Marlin as gcode flavour?

Here you go. I'm not very literate when it comes to the coding (getting there though) I remember setting it up and worked right away, except for start and end code. I've never been able to set 2 different temperatures.

Odd. That's what I've got set too. Thanks for sharing though.

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dc42

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Sean.kennedy

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DADIY
Thanks. When my Fisher XT finishes its print I'm going to flip it over and try and find those pins. I'll let you know how I get on.

Me too! I want in on this. Itz nice to have the option to have the fan off for first layer.

Don't do that. The hot end fan must run whenever the hot end is hot, or it will block. OTOH a separate print cooling fan is better turned off for the first layer.

ok, gotcha! so doing this makes the printer silent until the hotend reaches whatever temp you set in the M106 code? And to accomplish this, i have to move the fan plug to the other fan control? Like in picture?

Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin.

I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c.

I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one.

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DADIY
Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin.

I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c.

I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one.

yep certainly saw that coming (pin changing i mean) i have loads of "dupont connectors" in all variations, so it will be a breeze. Thanks greatly for the offer though! I cant wait! it will be nice to do that tomorrow.

That should work.

On mine the yellow cable was positive, but I'd check yours with a meter before you change yours just in case.

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DADIY
That should work.

On mine the yellow cable was positive, but I'd check yours with a meter before you change yours just in case.

Way ahead of you, already did it!

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DADIY
Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin.

I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c.

I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one.

It doesnt work!! Did all the wiring and nothing. i see there is supposed to be a light for that fan but there is none. very confused.

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Sean.kennedy

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DADIY
Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin.

I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c.

I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one.

It doesnt work!! Did all the wiring and nothing. i see there is supposed to be a light for that fan but there is none. very confused.

Are you using 1.09o or 1.09p firmware? Thermostatic fan control is not supported in earlier versions.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42

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Sean.kennedy

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DADIY
Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin.

I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c.

I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one.

It doesnt work!! Did all the wiring and nothing. i see there is supposed to be a light for that fan but there is none. very confused.

Are you using 1.09o or 1.09p firmware? Thermostatic fan control is not supported in earlier versions.

ah! im using 1.09m

Thanks to everyone on their suggestions, looks like I also need to update my firmware as I'm on the stock one supplied with the unit (listed in the build instructions).

Having printed a couple of things I'm now better at understanding the process from start to finish, I let the hot end cool right down before switching the fisher off. I set it back to standby before removing the print.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 09:17AM by geeksarebeta.