new effector and carraige

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geeksarebeta
What print setting did you use for the parts? Obviously you've not used a Fisher to print them but did you use a layer height of 0.1 or 0.2? I have two settings for slic3r, standard and fine and wondering which would be best for printing printer parts?

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geeksarebeta
Thanks for the advice on the speed of print, mine too look like they're 0.2 so will probably stick with that and modify the speed a little, when I am confident of getting the right level of accuracy.

Also, as promised I have evolved the original design of the new effector to suit the very different Fisher 1 design, please have a look at the attached picture and provide feedback, I'll hold off on uploading the model anywhere as I have a few kinks to iron out first. You'll see that I have changed the plain nuts to locking nuts on the inside of the parts as I am concerned that the plain nut will still allow the grub screw to unwind under vibration.

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bgkdavis
Took time to take a few pictures of the new parts, so far they are proving to be pretty successful. the 6/10 calibration returns 0.05 pretty reliably and I've been getting some great prints.

I've also added a power switch to my Fisher, got fed up with having to pull the plug to turn it off.

[attachment 62924 effector.png]

These pics show the assembly pretty clearly, the M3 nuts can be seen in the slots and the washers can just be made out between the nylocks and plastic


[attachment 62925 DSC_0301.JPG]
[attachment 62926 DSC_0304.JPG]


[attachment 62927 DSC_0295.jpg]

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Sean.kennedy

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bgkdavis
Took time to take a few pictures of the new parts, so far they are proving to be pretty successful. the 6/10 calibration returns 0.05 pretty reliably and I've been getting some great prints.

I've also added a power switch to my Fisher, got fed up with having to pull the plug to turn it off.

[attachment 62924 effector.png]

These pics show the assembly pretty clearly, the M3 nuts can be seen in the slots and the washers can just be made out between the nylocks and plastic


[attachment 62925 DSC_0301.JPG]
[attachment 62926 DSC_0304.JPG]


[attachment 62927 DSC_0295.jpg]

So i am about to put all this together. the thing is yours looks nothing like mine. My one looks like this (https://reprappro.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/RRP-FISH1-064.jpg). Am i assuming i just ignore the holes on the effector and use the ones on your effector place that i just printed with the grub screws and and hardware i bought?

im still shopping for carbonfibre rods and ends.

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DADIY

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Sean.kennedy

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bgkdavis
Took time to take a few pictures of the new parts, so far they are proving to be pretty successful. the 6/10 calibration returns 0.05 pretty reliably and I've been getting some great prints.

I've also added a power switch to my Fisher, got fed up with having to pull the plug to turn it off.

[attachment 62924 effector.png]

These pics show the assembly pretty clearly, the M3 nuts can be seen in the slots and the washers can just be made out between the nylocks and plastic


[attachment 62925 DSC_0301.JPG]
[attachment 62926 DSC_0304.JPG]


[attachment 62927 DSC_0295.jpg]

So i am about to put all this together. the thing is yours looks nothing like mine. My one looks like this (https://reprappro.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/RRP-FISH1-064.jpg). Am i assuming i just ignore the holes on the effector and use the ones on your effector place that i just printed with the grub screws and and hardware i bought?

im still shopping for carbonfibre rods and ends.

For the rods I got my parts on ebay -
Rods - [www.ebay.co.uk]
Ends - [www.ebay.co.uk]

The ends come in packs of 10 which is a shame.
The rod I used was 3mm and would be available from a kite shop if you have one local to you.

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bgkdavis
I recommend 4mm carbon rods not 3mm, you do need to open the holes in the rod ends out, but 4mm hollow section rod is a lot stiffer than 3mm

My effector is a fisher beta, you have the fisher 1 effector, this is why I said the design I made need to be mashed up with the fisher 1 beta design, I really have not looked closely enough at the fisher 1 design to know how they differ, but I do like the all in one type design of the fisher 1

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dougal1957

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bgkdavis
I recommend 4mm carbon rods not 3mm, you do need to open the holes in the rod ends out, but 4mm hollow section rod is a lot stiffer than 3mm

My effector is a fisher beta, you have the fisher 1 effector, this is why I said the design I made need to be mashed up with the fisher 1 beta design, I really have not looked closely enough at the fisher 1 design to know how they differ, but I do like the all in one type design of the fisher 1

Don't have a fisher but what is the size of the hole in those rod ends i.e. will they take an M3 Grubscrew if they will then how about using 5mm OD x 3mm ID carbon Tube screw the grub screw into the ends and then epoxy the assembly to the Carbon tube in the same way that we use for traxxas joints or Igus joints for that matter.

Doug

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bgkdavis

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dougal1957

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bgkdavis
I recommend 4mm carbon rods not 3mm, you do need to open the holes in the rod ends out, but 4mm hollow section rod is a lot stiffer than 3mm

My effector is a fisher beta, you have the fisher 1 effector, this is why I said the design I made need to be mashed up with the fisher 1 beta design, I really have not looked closely enough at the fisher 1 design to know how they differ, but I do like the all in one type design of the fisher 1

Don't have a fisher but what is the size of the hole in those rod ends i.e. will they take an M3 Grubscrew if they will then how about using 5mm OD x 3mm ID carbon Tube screw the grub screw into the ends and then epoxy the assembly to the Carbon tube in the same way that we use for traxxas joints or Igus joints for that matter.

Doug

Sounds complicated, and when you bring a screw into the mix your adjustment is limited to half a pitch.....I prefer simplicity

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bgkdavis
Good luck, Ive been running my original design for 6 months now and have found the inside locking nut isnt needed, using threaded rod will mean you lose the easy adjustability you get with a hex grub screw, and the longest grub screws avaialable to me were 25mm, which meant a locking nut on the inside wasnt practical, which is why I dropped it from my original concept.