Creating Prusa design using aluminium frame. issues and questions

HI All,

thanks for the excellent support given by this community

i have almost finished the build and i am confused with endstop position on Y axis,

While watching the calibration videos, everyone is saying endstop and ball bearing should be on the same line, but in my case, there is a slight difference. Will this make an issue?

please check this for my alignment



[imgur.com]

i have attached my build image too, don't know it will work or not. Wire arrangements are pending now.

Also i cannot move the Z-(MIN) direction using printrun , it's only moving Z+ direction

Regards,
Ben

Also please anyone helps to understand Each axis directions. Currently, I have set motor directions like below

[imgur.com]

is this correct?

Your Designed 3D printer appears to be a similar design to my Hictop 3DP12. Your X,Y and Z movements are the same as the The Hictop.
My Y-Axis end stop is on the other side of the Y-Axis not know know if this will be a problem or not.
When I home the X-axis moves to the Left then to the the Rear of the Machine and of course the Z-Axis Drops to the bed.
I have then setup the Park position at the Center of the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2017 07:53AM by Roberts_Clif.

HI

i am totally confused

Quote
My Y-Axis end stop is on the other side of the Y-Axis not know know if this will be a problem or not.

So can you please check on your firmware that what are defined for below?. This is what i mentioned on mine.

#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

i was reffering this : [i.stack.imgur.com] . so i set axis like this

The design of the Hictop 3D Printers is as follows the Y-Axis End-stop is actually mounted to the Carriage Belt holder,
and when the Y-Axis is at the Rear of the Machine the Y-Axis end-stop is pressed against the Stepper motor on the rear of the machine stopping the Y carriage.



I designed the Blue adapter because the end stop missed the Stepper motor, when adjusted so end stop would hit the stepper motor the belt was out of alignment. (Catch22)
Your Prusa i3 may have a different approach thou the image here i.stack.imgur.com shows the Y-Axis end stop on the rear of the Prusa 3 like My Hictop.

#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to false for Proximity sensor..
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to false for Filament Run out Sensor.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to false same as Z-Min ndstop.

Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2017 08:27AM by Roberts_Clif.

Quote
Your Prusa i3 may have a different approach thou the image here i.stack.imgur.com shows the Y-Axis end stop on the rear of the Prusa 3 like My Hictop.

that is not my build, it's a reference picture i got from the internet. My build is this : [imgur.com]

and in this, i have put endstop on the font, that is Y_MIN right?

Yes, Was just saying the Reference image shows the Y-Axis end-stop on the rear .
Which is the same as most printer I have seen, never said it was incorrect just different.

Was helping a individual who custom built his 3D Printer. His complaints was his prints were a mirror model of what it was suppose to be.
And he only realized this when he started printed characters, and saw they were a mirror model. come to find out his X axis was inverted

And wanted help with his slicer as he thought that his problem was there, so he wanted to know how to slice a positive model instead of the negative one.

Turns out, he had placed the X end stop on the right hand side and because of this he had to inverted the X stepper motor to correct the problem.

Now instead of moving right the X-axis it was moving left and instead of moving left the X-Axis was moving right. So the model was printed in a mirrored fashion.
FYI.

HI

if i move the end stop to backside, same as like that picture, will it be ok right?

Also when i am pressing the Z home on printrun, only some noise is coming(kind of drilling noise) and the z-axis is not moving at all.

i didnt done the vref yet. because i don't have digital multimeter . Also this will note be connection issue because if i move the axis from printrun(10 mm, 1 mm and .1 mm) is moving perfectly without any issue.

In your photo you have the Y+ Y- the wrong way around and show the Y endstop in the Y max position.
When the bed moves towards the back, this is Y-

Your problem with the Z motors sounds like the normal problem, 'default homing speed' set too high in marlin firmware.

HI,

thanks for the information. i will change the Y endstop to Y_MIN position(backside)

and for the homing, i did below changes

//#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (4*60)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (2.5*60)

i will upload the code and let you know the status.

HI,

thank you so much, now the Z homing is ok, the sound is gone and the motor is moving properly now. i have changed the homing speed to below

#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z  (2.5*60)

Also, i changed the endstop to the backside, that is Y_MIN position. See Y Axis homed position: [imgur.com]

While homing every Axis, the motor is moving and it stopped in such a position that endstops are triggered(see picture below), is that the right behavior? Sorry if it's a stupid question as i am a beginner and this is my first build

[imgur.com]



thanks & Regards,
Ben

Stupid question. i have ordered filament and it's on the way. So is there any way to load STL file check the motor movements(as kind of mock print)a

You need a slicer program to convert the .stl to .gcode. You can then run the .gcode without filament to make sure everything works.

OK,

i have generated the gcode with and did a test print with that. my intention was to test the motor connectivity and i want to see how the motor moves while printing (never saw any live printing yet ).

and it got worked, i have loaded the gcode from printrun and from memory card, But sometimes the printer is showing " printer halted ". Didn't checked much

Also need to fix the hotend FAN

this is the error on printrun, your hint helped, actually i was always looking on the LCD and that too 2nd line.

Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
[ERROR] Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed

for heatbed i set 50 C temperature it was on that temperature.

HI thanks, i have changed like below and temperature error is almost gone. My heat bed is not going more than 50

#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 90                // Seconds
#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2               // Degrees Celsius

i got some PLA filament that is used for 3D print pen, don't know the temperature of that.

BUT the issue is below, while printing, first layer of every print is not coming and it's bending after sometime

[s1.postimg.org]
[s1.postimg.org]
[s1.postimg.org]

what will be the issue. i have put heat bed to 43 C and nozzle to 250 C(latest reduced to 220). layer height was .1 mmm. Also, i don't have glass plate, i used masking tape with paper glue

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/07/2017 05:15AM by bentech4u.

Sorry, my filament was ABS, and company delivered that with PLA description.


i think layer height is ok for me. But i felt the object is scaled.

this is a endstop holder, and the layers are perfect. only the first layer having an issue.
[imgur.com]

Also, this print seems like little scaled to Z direction and the first layer is stretched.
[imgur.com]

this is the print information for above image
[s1.postimg.org]

And from configuration,

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 4000, 94.69 }

And the settings used for slicer is below:
[s1.postimg.org]

Question is what is the recomended settings for ABS, my heatbed is not that much good, so if i use higher temperature, printer is halting

I would suggest first learning and tuning your printer using PLA.
I print PLA at 190c with the bed at 55c using blue painters tape

Your slicer settings:
layer height of .2mm should be OK for most things, I only use .1mm layer height for very small pieces.
I use 3 or 4 layers for top/bottom of the piece
fill density could be lower depending on the piece you are printing, 20% (or less) should be OK for most things.
I found "honeycomb" fill pattern tends to be hard on the printer - lots of movement. When slicing with slic3r I use "rectiliner"

Hope this helps
Steve

HI

i got my PLA spool and when i tried to extrude, filament is always jamming on hotend. removed, cleaned everythin. again same.

i was using temperature of 200 C and using the extrude button on printrun to extrude.

Do you have a cooling fan on the fins of the hotend?

Yes. Cooling fan is there. Mine is e3d v6 clone. But that cooling fan is not running always. Sometimes or during the print only it turns on. Is that normal behavior ?

i heated up to 240 and cleared all the ABS. and many times i cleaned the nozzle and eating barallel manually by opening it , again the same thing.

heat sink on top of heating barallel is too hot, is that making an issue?

anyway please find below pictures of jammed filament

[s1.postimg.org]
[s1.postimg.org]
[s1.postimg.org]

Quote
bentech4u
Yes. Cooling fan is there. Mine is e3d v6 clone. But that cooling fan is not running always. Sometimes or during the print only it turns on. Is that normal behavior ?

No, it needs to be on all the time with PLA - the heat will creep up the nozzle causing it to jam.

Personally I wouldn't use a clone of an e3d (or other) hot-end.

I've used a genuine j-head in my old build and both my current i3's have hexagon hot-ends.
Been printing for over 3 years and can't recall ever having a filament jam.
I maintain 2 i3's at my local hackspace and they probably get a jam a couple of times a year - both have hexagon hot-ends

Thanks a lot, i have connected the FAN directly to 12 V and the jamming issue solved.

again another 2 issues

1. the first layer is not correct(before for ABS also i had this issue and that got solved by increasing headbed heat)
2. total object is little slanting to Y MIN direction

For the first issues, please find images, Also suggest my layers are correct or not
[pasteboard.co]
[pasteboard.co]
[pasteboard.co]
[pasteboard.co]
[pasteboard.co]

For the second issue, i have noticed this for all the prints,

[pasteboard.co]
[pasteboard.co]