Suggestions for upgrades (Tronxy PM802MA)

Hello fellow forumers!

After following the world of 3D printing from afar for years, i finally bit the bullet and ordered a Prusa i3-clone, like many before me.

I ordered from a seller called Yeshengtai, decent feedback, DE warehouse. The printer is on its way, and assuming i receive what i ordered, it's going to be a Tronxy PM802MA.

After reading a few horror stories with warped parts, unsafe PSU arrangements, non-existant cable management, and having some previous experience with East Asian electronics kits, i thought i'd reach out to this excellent forum and ask for suggested upgrades. I did play around with large commercial waterjets at one point, FLOW-brand, so i have some small idea about CAD/CAM.

The plan is to try to build the kit as received first, with just a fused mains switch and plug the entire printer into a RCD-protected outlet. I will be setting up the printer in my office, where there are no other people 99.9% of the time. It's

Assuming i can get this far, the plan is to print some cable chains and other various bits to tidy up the printer and increase reliability.

The upgrades i've read about already are external MOSFET drivers for heatbed + extruder heater, new/external PSU, new mainboard(MKS integrated), new stepper drivers(DRV8825), mechanical end point microswitches for added safety, I'll probably order safety-related bits ASAP, and other parts as time/funds allows. New extruder and head are definitely in the pipeline.

One thing i've read about is a frosted/matte plastic sticker of sorts to affix on the heatbed, for better adhesion as well as ease of removal of prints. There is one on banggood but i'm not sure if it's good, any pointers here are much appreciated.

I have a spare Pi, so along with an enclosure i plan to eventually use UltiPi for automation and safety. I plan to dial the printer in using PLA, but i did order a roll of PETG to print some upgrade parts. I'm still not entirely comfortable printing unenclosed so might get the enclosure moved up in priorities.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2017 04:24AM by SwedeKris.

Now that you have jumped in with both feet it is time to get familiar with your printer. Sometimes it is easier to watch video assemble than to read pictorials diagrams.

I would search You-Tube for your Tronxy PM802MA and watch every video good or bad they all have something to offer. " most likely you have already done this step "
Upon receiving your 3D printer you will be more learned to jump right in and start the assembly process.

If you have any problems just ask as the Forums have many learned individuals to help.

Hi Cliff! Thanks for the reply. I did see some videos, but a lot of them are buyers who were expecting to get an Anet A8...

Received the printer, and after a few Zen moments, a few bouts of confusion, i eventually managed to get it built, although it took significantly longer then 3.5 hours

After all was done i noticed that there were an assembly video on the SD card as well, i used only the diagrams. I'll probably go through the video and see if i missed anything.

I have to say that all in all, it wasn't too bad of an experience, and it forces the builder to think about the function of the printer as parts are coming together.

Briefly powered the printer, LCD lit up and fans spun, had to power down and bike home from the office at that point. Going to go back first thing tomorrow morning and hopefully get printing. Thankfully the videos on z-stop calibration and bed levelling that i found are pretty good, seems doable. Can't wait to print upgrade parts for it!

A Few tips -

Make sure that the power supply voltage level switch 110/230 switch is in the 110 volt position.
If your 3D Printers Power supply cord is hard wired and has power switch, I would plug it into a outlet strip to have a on /off switch close to you.

Upgrade to a proximity sensor to replace the Z-Axis switch no reprogramming required, place it on a slide with a adjustable thumb screw for faster calibrations.
Upgrade to a filament run-out sensor which pauses the print when filament runs out and saves the print.
Add a power supply supply on/off switch I placed mine on the AC side others place theirs on the DC side requiring a higher current switch.
And print a better nozzle fan Duct to cool your prints, my original duct was badly designed and cooled the nozzle not the print causing bad prints.

Basically this style 3D Printers are all the same. I have Two Aluminum frame Hictop's.

Chose the Aluminum Frames design because of it's Strength, They kind of look like a football goal posts.

I watched every video I could find before choosing this printer for almost 6 months. And found a video of a rustic man assembling this printer.
When I received the 1st printer. It took me a 1/2 day to assemble and a day to calibrate, so my first good print was on the 3rd day.
And I have been making it better every day.

2nd Printer received at noon went together like lightning, updated hardware and firmware and printed first test in before diner.

So Good Luck Tomorrow

Need help just Ask.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2017 10:10PM by Roberts_Clif.