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Hictop Prusa i3

Posted by dblackburn965 
Hictop Prusa i3
April 14, 2017 02:08PM
Hey everyone, I have recently built my Hictop i3 prusa. Everything seems to be working for the most part. Auto home, hot end and bed heating etc. The problem I am having is that when I go to actually print something from usb, my printer will print something completely different from what I send it. For example. If I send a simple cube to the printer, it will printer a tower instead of a cube. It just keeps going up, and up, and up. This is really annoying. I have tried Cura, Repetier Host. I have also tried both of those programs on Mac, and Windows, and I get the same results either way. I thought maybe there was something wrong with the firmware on the board, so I flashed a newer marlin firmware, and I still get the same results. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

Thank you so much!
Re: Hictop Prusa i3
April 14, 2017 11:43PM
Do you have the ability to post pictures?

Is the layer count of the print the same as the layer count of the slicer? While Z can be off by some, getting too far off would create layers that wouldn't adhere to themselves.
Re: Hictop Prusa i3
April 17, 2017 03:13PM
So here is a picture of the progress on the computer, and a picture of the actual object. The actual object is always far to big on the z axis.
Attachments:
open | download - ComputerProgress.jpg (495.2 KB)
open | download - PrintedObject.jpg (580.4 KB)
Re: Hictop Prusa i3
April 18, 2017 11:17AM
Have you calibrated the Z axis? Excess travel in Z (bigger layer height than is intended would also explain the poor quality.)
Don't know what controller you are using but if its RAMPS some one please comment on the jumper settings for motor stepping.

Also
Your cooling nozzle seems to be pointing at the hot end heater block - should be lower or you will be trying to cool the part you are heating. I believe cooling is mainly required for PLA.
This actually may indicate you need to raise the heater block (screw the threaded tube further into the heatsink block). The threaded tube should be screwed in to within a few (2)mm of the tension wheel/hobbed bolt or you risk the filament not feeding correctly.
Re: Hictop Prusa i3
April 18, 2017 12:23PM
I moved the hot end up a little bit, but the slot on the fan for the air to come out is pointed straight down, so I think it's okay. This printer is using a RAMPS 1.4 board. I have not calibrated the z axis. Is that done in the marlin firmware?
Re: Hictop Prusa i3
April 18, 2017 02:54PM
I finally figured out how to calibrate my z axis. The printer is printing fine now. Close to the same quality as my 5th gen makerbot replicator! Thanks guys!
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