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P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Posted by gwc2795 
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
January 27, 2017 06:35PM
Quote
Evorowy
Hello folks!

As with the Marlin Firmware update (and skynet) I want to upgrade current software which my P802 is running now.
AFAIK i need to tune certain Header to make all Working for intstance the auto-level sensor distance from extruder.
Also during some prints i Have few i suppose logical questions connected to printer behaviour.
Why, on earth, during heating extruder and bed, fans are on full speed? (Extruder fan is preventing from filament spilage, but the "printing" fan? Why it is on full speed?)
Why homing and autoleveling catches AFTER extruder became fully heated? It makes filament spill scross the heating bed and is really nasty.
Why the "wiping across distances" dosen"t work?

I Have to admit that i use the stock pre uploaded on Melzi.

Kind regards!

What slicer are u using?
Most likely in the slicer SW, it might have an option to turn on/off fan. Also, when slicing, the slicer will put start and end code for every model that you want to print.

Check the start code, I use custom code to star my print which command G28 then G28 then heat up my extruder

Hope this guide you to the right direction
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
January 31, 2017 04:11AM
Hello everyone!, I'm Leonardo, I bought an Anet A8 on ebay and I got a Tronxy P802MA instead, I'm a complete newbie at 3D printing but I could manage my self to build the machine, calibrate it, and find the correct settings for an acceptable printing quality. So finally I printed some stuff for my brother and some upgrades for the printer using files for the Anet A8.
Now a friend of mine want me to make him this Earbud holder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36321
I tried to print it but I have problems with the "core" piece, because the cornices (sorry bad english, google translated), I mean the edges of the upper side, are printed awfully bad as you can see in the two the pictures below, in fact I can't print open angles because this happens every time I try to do it:





And the bottom part is printed correctly:


If I turn the figure 180°, It happens the same.
I don't know what I'm missing, does anyone know why is this happening and what settings should I change for make a good printing?. Settings below:

Filament
width: 1.75 mm
brand: Makerparts

Printing settings
Software: Repetier
Slicer: Slic3r
Layer height: 0.2mm
Infill: 20% - rectilinear pattern
Skirt: yes - 6mm distance from object
Brim: yes - 5mm width
Support: yes
Extruder T° : 190°
Bed T°: 55°
Fan always on: yes
Enable Auto cooling: yes

Speed Settings
[i.imgur.com]

Any help would be very appreciated, thank you.
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
February 07, 2017 09:25AM
Lenardo
you need to enable the support for this open angle.

no support then print can not stand by themselfspinning smiley sticking its tongue out
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
February 27, 2017 02:45AM
Quote
leonard9500
Any help would be very appreciated, thank you.

Everything that has angle larger than 40-50 deg with buildplate needs support. Nothing to do with that. You should do a smoother transition between vertical and horizontal areas. And lot of cooling is needed with PLA and some cooling with ABS when you print overhangs.
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
March 16, 2017 02:21PM
Need help troubleshooting a heated bed issue. I assembled my P802M weeks ago and have been printing a lot of stuff. I finished a print and shut the machine off for the night. Next day I went to print another part and the heated bed will not heat up. I checked and the thermistor is working (I put my finger on it and watched the temp rise) I checked the power output at the terminals on the board and saw no voltage. Connected the bed directly to 12 supply and it lights up and gets warm.

The board is a Melzi 2.0_V5 from Tronxy.

I see no evidence of the MOSFET getting hot. No burns or discoloration that would be seen if overheated. Nor do I see any defective solder joints.

What else can I check here before plunking down money to replace the board?

Thank you.


--
TW
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
March 26, 2017 12:18PM
Hi o/

My melzi board was failing. So i replace it by ramps 1.4+ arduino, but i have some problem for fix the Z prob, my print start more or less 10mm above the bed.

i have a metallic sensor for the Z.

Anyone can share the configuration.h please ?

Thanks
Benoit
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
March 26, 2017 04:36PM
Twmaster, first check for dry joints where the bed connector pins are soldered into the board. Check that the resistance connected to the gate of the bed mosfet reads correctly at 10K and that there are no dry joints associated with the soldering of the mosfet onto the board. Make sure that the bed power feed wires are correctly inserted into the connector and well tightened. For the next bit just be careful with the voltmeter probes not to accidentally short anything. With everything connected, power up the board and check the following voltages relative to the board ground with the bed OFF- both sides of the bed power connection should read +12V and the bed mosfet gate voltage should read 0V. Set the controller to heat the bed, the voltage at the gate of the bed mosfet should now read +5V and the voltage on the bed power connection nearest to the hot end connector should have dropped to close to 0V.

If you don't get +12V on both bed connections with the bed turned OFF then you have a power feed problem. If you get +5V on the gate of the bed mosfet with the bed turned ON and both of the bed connections still read +12V then the bed mosfet has gone open circuit. If you don't get +5V on the gate of the bed mosfet with the bed turned ON then you either have a processor problem or the track that feeds the gate from the processor has a break or a dry joint in it (turn off before checking for these).
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
March 29, 2017 07:40PM
Quote
gwc2795
I have added the P802M Firmware, P802M Printed Parts and P802M Instructions on a Google Drive.
Hope they help.


[drive.google.com]

Hola, me uno al grupo, sirve esto para la Tronxy 802ma?
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
April 02, 2017 02:29AM
Quote
Azurha
Hi o/

My melzi board was failing. So i replace it by ramps 1.4+ arduino, but i have some problem for fix the Z prob, my print start more or less 10mm above the bed.

i have a metallic sensor for the Z.

Anyone can share the configuration.h please ?

Thanks
Benoit

up

EDIT : i add my actual configuration.h if it can help. [paste2.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2017 08:21AM by Azurha.
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
April 02, 2017 06:18PM
So what am I doing wrong I have all the Above equipment using marlin configuration.h file and I get just a blue screen.
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
April 19, 2017 08:41PM
Quote
Supermec
Twmaster, first check for dry joints where the bed connector pins are soldered into the board. Check that the resistance connected to the gate of the bed mosfet reads correctly at 10K and that there are no dry joints associated with the soldering of the mosfet onto the board. Make sure that the bed power feed wires are correctly inserted into the connector and well tightened. For the next bit just be careful with the voltmeter probes not to accidentally short anything. With everything connected, power up the board and check the following voltages relative to the board ground with the bed OFF- both sides of the bed power connection should read +12V and the bed mosfet gate voltage should read 0V. Set the controller to heat the bed, the voltage at the gate of the bed mosfet should now read +5V and the voltage on the bed power connection nearest to the hot end connector should have dropped to close to 0V.

If you don't get +12V on both bed connections with the bed turned OFF then you have a power feed problem. If you get +5V on the gate of the bed mosfet with the bed turned ON and both of the bed connections still read +12V then the bed mosfet has gone open circuit. If you don't get +5V on the gate of the bed mosfet with the bed turned ON then you either have a processor problem or the track that feeds the gate from the processor has a break or a dry joint in it (turn off before checking for these).

Turns out something killed the output pin on the AVR. I've since replaced the controller board with another Melzi and added a MOSFET board to drive the heated bed. It's been working flawlessly for weeks now. Thank you for the troubleshooting suggestions.


--
TW
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
November 02, 2017 02:42AM
I have a few questions regarding the auto levelling feature on my Zonestar P802NR2.I have had the printer working for months now but the auto level never worked for me.I can start the process of levelling the bed but what it actually does is do the first sensor to bed measurement then it raises the extruder until it keeps bumping into the top of the printer frame.It only does it once and then I have to cut the power to the printer or it just keeps on trying to raise the extruder.Would any of you mind explaining what is going on or maybe how to resolve this issue?I have tried contacting Zonestar but they are horrible with customer service.
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
November 04, 2017 01:18AM
If you're using Reptier load it up and connect to the printer then press alt-e. Press Alt-e will bring up the printers eeprom settings. You'll have to do some detective (google) work on your own from this point on to find out what the settings do as I'm not near my printer as I type.

First make a backup of the settings by exporting them to a safe place. Now off the top of my head search for Z probe height in the list. Now DO NOT change any values until you know what they do.
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