P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
Posted by gwc2795
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 03:55AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
Okay. I better get the 8mm one then 
I also read that this sensor is connected to the Z-end stop so the mechanical z-end stop should be removed, right? what happens when we do "home all" ? When it's going home it's not above the bed anymore.
Or should we wire up the mechanical z-end stop too? As an added safety in case the inductive sensor sends no signal, to prevent damage to the printer?
I also read that this sensor is connected to the Z-end stop so the mechanical z-end stop should be removed, right? what happens when we do "home all" ? When it's going home it's not above the bed anymore.
Or should we wire up the mechanical z-end stop too? As an added safety in case the inductive sensor sends no signal, to prevent damage to the printer?
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 03:55AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
No I don't think so.
But here some instructions:
[forums.reprap.org]
[www.thingiverse.com]
BTW:
Here is a new link with a better manual for the printer (yeah, this is what we need yet!) and the source of the repetier firmware (more useful)
[drive.google.com]
But here some instructions:
[forums.reprap.org]
[www.thingiverse.com]
BTW:
Here is a new link with a better manual for the printer (yeah, this is what we need yet!) and the source of the repetier firmware (more useful)
[drive.google.com]
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 03:57AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 04:06AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
There are unused pins in the atmega1284p, for example pins PA3 and PA4, which are at the outer side of the chip, so can be soldered pretty easy.
The other end-stops have a 4.7µF capacitor and a 10k resistor wired up. So we could just use a resistor and a capacitor and wire it up to PA3 or PA4 to add one more end-stop to the pcb...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2016 04:11AM by ErikL.
The other end-stops have a 4.7µF capacitor and a 10k resistor wired up. So we could just use a resistor and a capacitor and wire it up to PA3 or PA4 to add one more end-stop to the pcb...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2016 04:11AM by ErikL.
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 04:10AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 35 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 04:41AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 43 |
Quote
ErikL
I'm also thinking about adding auto bed leveling to my P802M printer but I'm wondering if this is the right sensor ? -> [www.ebay.co.uk]
Can anyone please confirm? I'm ordering different parts from the same seller so I could add this sensor and I won't need to pay additional shipping costs..
I found the information here to be all over the place so I just googled "prusa i3 auto bed leveling" and found this [www.instructables.com] although it's for the marlin firmware I suspect it can be and is being modified for our printers. I went for the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX from two different ebay sources from China.
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 05:21AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 05:15PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
Ok, I'm at home so here are my collected links about autolevelling: (Sorry maybe some are german!)
difference between blue and orange sensor:
[www.3d-proto.de]
melzi + autolevel
[www.reddit.com]
[drive.google.com] ---> new firmware source
[forums.reprap.org]
[my3dprinter.wordpress.com]
sensor holder (orange): [www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.instructables.com]
sensor with optocoupler
[my3dprinter.wordpress.com]
repetier and z-sensor
[www.repetier.com]
prusa i3 + sensor
[forum.repetier.com]
[www.instructables.com]
difference between blue and orange sensor:
[www.3d-proto.de]
melzi + autolevel
[www.reddit.com]
[drive.google.com] ---> new firmware source
[forums.reprap.org]
[my3dprinter.wordpress.com]
sensor holder (orange): [www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.instructables.com]
sensor with optocoupler
[my3dprinter.wordpress.com]
repetier and z-sensor
[www.repetier.com]
prusa i3 + sensor
[forum.repetier.com]
[www.instructables.com]
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 06:12PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 06:19PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
Also a totally different question:
When I first used my printer I had a problem with it. The LCD started to flicker when the bed and extruder were powered on for a couple minutes. While printing the printer came with errors about SD card read failures etc... The whole thing was unstable and crashed.
After reading online I read somewhere that the mosfets on the zonestar melzi board were poorly chosen and get hot. The heatsinks on them are too small and this is causing such issues. So I had to install an additonal fan to cool the PCB. Since I did that my printer is fully stable and working perfect.
I printed a fan holder and mounted in on my printer so it's all nice now.
But I'm wondering if anyone else here had to install an additional fan to cool the PCB too? Or am I the only one who had such a severe problem with it?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2016 06:21PM by ErikL.
When I first used my printer I had a problem with it. The LCD started to flicker when the bed and extruder were powered on for a couple minutes. While printing the printer came with errors about SD card read failures etc... The whole thing was unstable and crashed.
After reading online I read somewhere that the mosfets on the zonestar melzi board were poorly chosen and get hot. The heatsinks on them are too small and this is causing such issues. So I had to install an additonal fan to cool the PCB. Since I did that my printer is fully stable and working perfect.
I printed a fan holder and mounted in on my printer so it's all nice now.
But I'm wondering if anyone else here had to install an additional fan to cool the PCB too? Or am I the only one who had such a severe problem with it?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2016 06:21PM by ErikL.
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 21, 2016 07:15PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
The flickering is caused by a bad 5v converter onboard as I can remember. People fixed it with exchange the voltage converter or powering the melzi via additional usb 5v.
I have the lcd flicker problem (all of us have it). But I fixed it another way:
In the past: setting voltage output on PSU to 13.5
now: Using new 25A PSU (also set to about 13V for better heatbed heating)
I have the lcd flicker problem (all of us have it). But I fixed it another way:
In the past: setting voltage output on PSU to 13.5
now: Using new 25A PSU (also set to about 13V for better heatbed heating)
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 12:40AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 221 |
Quote
madias
Hello,
I'm also a owner of this printer (sold as "Hesine M505" the black acrylic one - firmware is the same:FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_V1.4 [zonestar3d.en.alibaba.com] ).
First some quick fixes of mine (if not already written in this thread):
1) My PSU is rated 15A (on the black hesine). This is much to low, turn the skrew on the PSU to max 13.5V for getting some degrees more on the heatbed and stability reasons. (Meanwhile I exchanged the PSU)
2) Isolate the heatbed on the backside (I have done it with a 5mm styrofoam plate wicked into aluminum foil and double sided heat proof tape)
3) Use thermal compounds between the heatbed and the alu plate. With this 3 fixes I got about 100 degrees on the heatbed without expensive modifications, (nearly) enough for printing ABS!
4) Place the whole printer on a rubber mat (as sold for loudspeaker) Gives me 2/3 less noise and less vibrations.
5) The Melzi board comes with a FAKE FTDI chip. So be careful which drivers (especially on windows) you install! Google for fixes and instructions ("FTDI brick")
6) My melzi board comes without bootloader (so you need an UNO or USBISP for updating the firmware)
And now some questions of mine:
I'll upgrade the printer for several reasons to RAMPS 1.4 and I wanna safe some entries from my original firmware, but I got really strange results out of the EPPROM settings:
EPR:3 3 100.0000 X-axis steps per mm
EPR:3 7 100.0000 Y-axis steps per mm
EPR:3 11 1600.0000 Z-axis steps per mm
These are all non standard values with our common components (M8 rods, pulleys, ....) according to [reprap.org] !
For example: X and Y should be around 80 and the Z-axis should be around 2560.
I'm not at home and I 've not done a big research (measuring all pulleys, belts-ptich,...)
So, can someone read out with repetier host the EEPROM settings and posting the results for those 3 values? Big thank you for this!
edit:
got some of the answers myself (after researching at the sellers aliexpress page)
Z Axis: With the calculator [prusaprinters.org] i got:
Motor step: 200, Driver: 16 steps, Leadscrew pitch (2mm - got this values from the sellers page), = 1600. But I can't believe it's not a metric M8 rod
for X and Y axis there must be "16" pulley tooth counts, I have to check this at home, so I got "100" according to spare parts from the seller he has the "16" teeth variants as standard product.
So the interesting question is - assuming there is only "one" master design for all those printers (afibot, hesine, P802, M505.....) and one master firmware, if all those printers are using (and shipping!) those 2mm rods AND the 16 teeth pulleys? If not, the buyer will have lots of troubles...
regards
Matthias
I run into that "1600 " problem.
I think it is for the threted rod and assuming that we all got the "upgraded" kit from Zonestar P802M it uses lead screws.
it should be set at 400!!
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 400,90} // default steps per unit for P802
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 02:26AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
Quote
madias
The flickering is caused by a bad 5v converter onboard as I can remember. People fixed it with exchange the voltage converter or powering the melzi via additional usb 5v.
I have the lcd flicker problem (all of us have it). But I fixed it another way:
In the past: setting voltage output on PSU to 13.5
now: Using new 25A PSU (also set to about 13V for better heatbed heating)
Well, ALL i did was adding an additional fan which is powered from the same 20A PSU (included with the printer) and I even added 12V led strips, also powered from the same PSU. So I'm drawing more power because of the leds and the fan, but since the fan is there the LCD hasn't had any flickering issues anymore
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 02:29AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
I haven't touched my printer' firmware yet but I'm planning on implementing auto bed leveling, so I will have to flash the firmware with the latest repetier firmware 0.92.x.
Has anyone already done that and can point me to soms relevant information and/or tips?
I guess I can, somehow, read the current configuration for the current firmware and use that configuration for compiling the newer firmware ?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 02:30AM by ErikL.
Has anyone already done that and can point me to soms relevant information and/or tips?
I guess I can, somehow, read the current configuration for the current firmware and use that configuration for compiling the newer firmware ?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 02:30AM by ErikL.
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 02:48AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 23 |
Do somebody have manual or detailed explanation for the menu.
I mean when you use the LCD.
for example what does it mean in config menu:
Configuration \
Acceleratilon \ Jerk: 20
Acceleratilon \ Z-Jerk 0.4
Feedrate \ Max Z: 4
Feedrate \ Home X: 100
Feedrate \ Home Y: 100
Feedrate \ Home X: 4
Extruder
Stab. Time :1
Wait Units: 1.0 mm
Control: Dead Time
DT / PID P: 7.00 ??
PID I: 2.00
PID D: 40.00D
Drive Min.: 50
Drive Max.: 230
PID max: 255
All off this i can't find manual, documantation?
Wich-wich means what?
thank you
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 02:49AM by Robkadett.
I mean when you use the LCD.
for example what does it mean in config menu:
Configuration \
Acceleratilon \ Jerk: 20
Acceleratilon \ Z-Jerk 0.4
Feedrate \ Max Z: 4
Feedrate \ Home X: 100
Feedrate \ Home Y: 100
Feedrate \ Home X: 4
Extruder
Stab. Time :1
Wait Units: 1.0 mm
Control: Dead Time
DT / PID P: 7.00 ??
PID I: 2.00
PID D: 40.00D
Drive Min.: 50
Drive Max.: 230
PID max: 255
All off this i can't find manual, documantation?
Wich-wich means what?
thank you
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 02:49AM by Robkadett.
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 05:06AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 152 |
Quote
ErikL
I haven't touched my printer' firmware yet but I'm planning on implementing auto bed leveling, so I will have to flash the firmware with the latest repetier firmware 0.92.x.
Has anyone already done that and can point me to soms relevant information and/or tips?
I guess I can, somehow, read the current configuration for the current firmware and use that configuration for compiling the newer firmware ?
check this out
[drive.google.com]
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 08:59AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 15 |
I'm also looking at firmware upgrade as I have ordered an inductive sensor for ABL. Thanks for the link, I believe this is the v0.91 firmware configured for the zonestar. I heard v0.92 is recommended for ABL as it addresses various bugs from 0.91.
My plan is to load the configuration.h file into the repetier firmware configuration tool on their website, it seems to pick up the configuration file okay but I havent yet downloaded and flashed the firmware.
My question: Have zonestar made further modifications to the firmware which aren't configured from their configuration.h file? Are there any other files I will have to manually modify to get 0.92 to work?
I'll share my configured firmware once I get it working!
My plan is to load the configuration.h file into the repetier firmware configuration tool on their website, it seems to pick up the configuration file okay but I havent yet downloaded and flashed the firmware.
My question: Have zonestar made further modifications to the firmware which aren't configured from their configuration.h file? Are there any other files I will have to manually modify to get 0.92 to work?
I'll share my configured firmware once I get it working!
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 10:06AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
Good news for printing flexible filaments
The simplest idea was really the best, just an additional guide for the filament prevents loops around the filament gear
Tested with 30m/s working good! More speed give bad results with "soft PLA" even with 230 degrees. But 30ms/s more than the recommended speed.
I have attached a 123D design file and also a STL file for that part.
For myself I used PETG for higher temperature resistance, feel free to experiment.
You also must drill the filament hole a bit (M3-M4, so 3-4mm)
regards Matthias
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 10:11AM by madias.
The simplest idea was really the best, just an additional guide for the filament prevents loops around the filament gear
Tested with 30m/s working good! More speed give bad results with "soft PLA" even with 230 degrees. But 30ms/s more than the recommended speed.
I have attached a 123D design file and also a STL file for that part.
For myself I used PETG for higher temperature resistance, feel free to experiment.
You also must drill the filament hole a bit (M3-M4, so 3-4mm)
regards Matthias
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2016 10:11AM by madias.
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 12:31PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
Quote
madias
Good news for printing flexible filaments
The simplest idea was really the best, just an additional guide for the filament prevents loops around the filament gear
Tested with 30m/s working good! More speed give bad results with "soft PLA" even with 230 degrees. But 30ms/s more than the recommended speed.
I have attached a 123D design file and also a STL file for that part.
For myself I used PETG for higher temperature resistance, feel free to experiment.
You also must drill the filament hole a bit (M3-M4, so 3-4mm)
regards Matthias
It looks like your printer is a little different compare to mine. The spring in my extruder doesn't have a screw at the bottom, like yours has in the picture. Mine has a hole in the bottom aluminium plate to hold the spring in place.
Also, my gear is not that close to the motor, it's more at the top and those screws on the front (in your picture) are not there for me. Those holes are used for mounting a small heatsink + fan
I'm going to print your thing anyway and try if it fits. Can't do it right now because I'm printing a different part that's going to take 3 hours
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 12:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 12:46PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 01:34PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
trying to burn 0.92 firmware and get this.. what to do ???
thanks !
got this printer...
[www.aliexpress.com]
thanks !
got this printer...
[www.aliexpress.com]
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 02:18PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 02:35PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
Zonestar/Hesine (what ever name they use now/past/future, they are all the SAME) is a really annoying company. The totally hesitated to give away the source code of their firmware in the past and this is strictly against open source policy. So copy the ideas from others (what is ok, if open source like our printer) and then they keep secret their minor changes (and errors).
But one reason why to buy a prusa i3 model was for me, to have all information so we have no problems in the future. Funny fact was, that I took even the building instructions from another company (I think afibot or something, the printer looks very similar).
But one reason why to buy a prusa i3 model was for me, to have all information so we have no problems in the future. Funny fact was, that I took even the building instructions from another company (I think afibot or something, the printer looks very similar).
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 02:51PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 30 |
I'm also considering buying a second 3D printer but I'm not sure which one to buy. I'm not a fan of this P802M printer to be honest.
Now I'm wondering if I buy a Leapfrog Creatr, for example, can I expect a totally different / better print result, or will it be more or less comparable? The reason why I ask is because with this printer I have had many issues already and I'm still not sure if my print results are normal.
The first X layers, the ones where Simplify3D is also doing a solid bottom fill, seem to be always 1mm wider on each side compared to the other layers. I first thought this was because I leveled the bed to close to the nozzle but I already tried increasing this space (in software) to the point where the object doesn't adhere to the bed anymore but the problem with these first layers was never gone. So every object I print has this problem. With some objects it's more visible compared to others.
Also, this printer is limited to 0.1mm layer height. Is this a true hardware limitation or can it print 0.05mm when the bed is leveled very good (or when ABL is added to the printer?)
I'm not sure which 2nd printer I should buy if my budget is somewhere to a maximum of 1500 euro? I rather spend far less, but the Leapfrog Creatr Single Extruder can be get for that amount and it looks like a nice printer. I'm just not sure if it's a good one and if I can expect better print results compared to my P802M
Or would you guys recommend me a better diy kit? If so, which one is considered a very good one?
So, that raises also my following question: Are you happy with your P802M printer? Or did you expect it to be better too?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong or the printer needs some more tweaks to make it better which I'm not aware of...
Now I'm wondering if I buy a Leapfrog Creatr, for example, can I expect a totally different / better print result, or will it be more or less comparable? The reason why I ask is because with this printer I have had many issues already and I'm still not sure if my print results are normal.
The first X layers, the ones where Simplify3D is also doing a solid bottom fill, seem to be always 1mm wider on each side compared to the other layers. I first thought this was because I leveled the bed to close to the nozzle but I already tried increasing this space (in software) to the point where the object doesn't adhere to the bed anymore but the problem with these first layers was never gone. So every object I print has this problem. With some objects it's more visible compared to others.
Also, this printer is limited to 0.1mm layer height. Is this a true hardware limitation or can it print 0.05mm when the bed is leveled very good (or when ABL is added to the printer?)
I'm not sure which 2nd printer I should buy if my budget is somewhere to a maximum of 1500 euro? I rather spend far less, but the Leapfrog Creatr Single Extruder can be get for that amount and it looks like a nice printer. I'm just not sure if it's a good one and if I can expect better print results compared to my P802M
Or would you guys recommend me a better diy kit? If so, which one is considered a very good one?
So, that raises also my following question: Are you happy with your P802M printer? Or did you expect it to be better too?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong or the printer needs some more tweaks to make it better which I'm not aware of...
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 03:32PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 152 |
Use Arduino 1.0.5-r2 to compile it.Quote
dsol
trying to burn 0.92 firmware and get this.. what to do ???
thanks !
got this printer...
[www.aliexpress.com]
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 22, 2016 10:55PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 221 |
Quote
madias
Zonestar/Hesine (what ever name they use now/past/future, they are all the SAME) is a really annoying company. The totally hesitated to give away the source code of their firmware in the past and this is strictly against open source policy. So copy the ideas from others (what is ok, if open source like our printer) and then they keep secret their minor changes (and errors).
But one reason why to buy a prusa i3 model was for me, to have all information so we have no problems in the future. Funny fact was, that I took even the building instructions from another company (I think afibot or something, the printer looks very similar).
mine came with the source code for my P802M
I even asked for the ABL that I don't have and the seller send me (although it looked weird, and I had to adjust several lines)
I don't know if anyone has successfully used repetier V0.92, since the repetier V0.91 that I RECEIVED FROM THE SELLER, CONTAIN lines and defines for
the LCD and its 5 bottoms..
Has any one successfully ported their 0.91 onto 0.92?
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 23, 2016 01:13AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
i got 0.92 from here
[forum.repetier.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
still trying to burn it... had a bug but gwc2795 in a massage above said to try different arduino version for that, will give it a try soon
and, could you upload your current version that you got ????
[forum.repetier.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
still trying to burn it... had a bug but gwc2795 in a massage above said to try different arduino version for that, will give it a try soon
and, could you upload your current version that you got ????
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 23, 2016 03:52AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
Melzi board files for actual IDE's (1.6xx above)
[github.com]
---> or even easier: just go in arduino settings and add this into "additional board manager URL" and then install the sanguino via the board manager
[raw.githubusercontent.com]
I didn't have success uploading the firmware via the FTDI, but I'm sure my melzi board has no bootloader installed, so I have to burn the bootloader via a Arduino Uno (or USPisp) first. But I won't do this, because I have a ready build up RAMP 1.4 on my desk (but no time for installing it at the moment..)
[github.com]
---> or even easier: just go in arduino settings and add this into "additional board manager URL" and then install the sanguino via the board manager
[raw.githubusercontent.com]
I didn't have success uploading the firmware via the FTDI, but I'm sure my melzi board has no bootloader installed, so I have to burn the bootloader via a Arduino Uno (or USPisp) first. But I won't do this, because I have a ready build up RAMP 1.4 on my desk (but no time for installing it at the moment..)
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Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread January 23, 2016 04:31AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 91 |
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