Not sure what to calibrate to fix cone prints

I think I have gotten my FolgerTech Prusia i3 printer working well with ABS. Well with one exception. I can't seem to be abe to print the top of cones. It does notmatter if its rounded or pointed. The same result happens. I find that the printer is burring the nozel in the print itself. The result is the print head dragging the print around and leaving a big blob on top. I am not sure what to adjust. I thought it might be the z axis but I can print square or cylender objects to the top of my printer without issue. Its just whenever it tries to produce a point

The noze is a 4
I have checked and calibrated the extruder

Just not sure what to do.

It's usually when the surface area becomes small and the part that has been printed didn't cool enough to have another layer printed on top of it.

You can set a minimum layer time which will slow down printing, or you could consider using a fan, though you risk warping.

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imqqmi
It's usually when the surface area becomes small and the part that has been printed didn't cool enough to have another layer printed on top of it.

Exactly.

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imqqmi
You can set a minimum layer time which will slow down printing, or you could consider using a fan, though you risk warping.

Another option is to print 2 of that thing, or have another object printing with the cone so that the plastic has time to cool.

I tried turning down the flow rate to about 50%. Still had the same problem. The last few layers it looks like it stuck the extruder down into the tip of the print. Ill try a side by side and see what I get. Thank you for the tips.

Yes two or three prints; the more there is, the longer time to cool. And since it's always printing, the plastic does not cook.

Thank you for all your help. Multiple prints just resulted in multiple prints being dragged around by the nozzle. What I am finding is that when I get to the final few layers I have to turn the flow rate down. It seems that 100% flow rate makes too big of a blob at the top. This ends up burring the nozzle while printing. I have calibrated the feed and its right on. If i turn down the flow for the entire print then the print comes out weak and with visual gaps in the sidewalls. So I guess if I want to do an unattended print ill have to figure out a way to code the machine to lower flow on those final layers when doing peaks.

How tight are the belts? Is there any backlash? Are the solid infill lines in pairs or evenly spaced? How are the infill conrners, any buildup of material that increases with height? What slicer are you using?

"Are the solid infill lines in pairs or evenly spaced"

This is a neat thing to look for; if in pairs, might point to something that is different in one direction.

@RRuser, yes that would point to backlash. This can be caused by belts that are not tight enough (X and or Y), or the x tensioner moves up and down when the x carriage changes direction. I just fixed mine with a brass plate bend in a U shape and soldered a brass nut to it to replace the plastic printed part. It was not strong enough to handle the tension. Once I fixed the up down motion the infill lines were perfect.
If one calibrates extrusion based on infill that has the signs of backlash you will over extrude as you try to fill in the gaps between the line pairs. This build up progresses through the layers and in the end it makes a real mess. The mistake one can make is that the line pairs will seem like one extruded line. It's so well jammed together that you might think its a single extruded line.
It isn't and as a result the pair usually has a ridge on top of it. This ridge will build up over the layers, even though between the pairs there can be gaps. The print will also be much weaker. So it's very important to fix this first before fine tuning the extrusion.

I dont think there is any backlash. The belts appear pretty tight to me. Im using a spring clip as the bet tension the belts. Its tight enough that its very difficult to remove them. I need to do more research on how to measure for a properly tense belt. Thus far all my prints seem to be great minus peaks. When I did my extrusion calibration i simply marked the filament and noted the measurement from the mark to the top of the extruder. I then asked the thing to push 50cm of plastic, measured again and made my adjustment from that.

I am not sure what is meant by the infill lines being solid or in pairs. I think i need to find some picture examples to tell for sure.

Thank you all for educating me along the way!

Oh I forgot to mention i have been using Slic3r mostly. I do have cura but i find myself more comfortable with slic3r. Im still deciding which one I prefer.

Slic3r here too. I bought S3D but am not using it.