HIC Prusa I3 marlin configuration question from a newbie

Basically here is where I am at. I have built it and printed some randomness that looks like crap and in youtubing and googling I need to configure Marlin for esteps and such. My problem is that HIC (if you have ever had to deal with them you know what I mean), lets just say that instructions are not thier forte. Anyways, to my question.

Is there a way to download the Marlin config that is already on my printer as a hard copy was not provided? I just know where I am starting from as I have an idea, with all the reading I have done, of what is wrong with my prints. I would rather modify what I have as I have no idea, nor will they tell me, what type of thermistors are used and such in setting it up from scratch.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TD

No, you can't download the firmware from the Arduino to get your configuration.h

My advice...
Install the Arduino IDE if you haven't already, get Marlin from github.
Use Prusa's calculator to get values for your X, Y & Z steps.
[prusaprinters.org]

I have a fairly detailed Instructable on setting up end-stops, Marlin values etc to get printing
[www.instructables.com]

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

If you don´t want to loose your original file-settings, the only way is to buy a second mega board and flash your own "Marlin-russian roulette" on it.
Once you´ve figured out, how the basic setting have to be, ( flash Marlin testsoftware ) you can dig in deeper into the configuration.h.
If you screw it up, you can always redo it.
-Olaf

I am having no end of problems with my HIC 3d printer. After endless correspondence with the supplier I am no closer to a solution than when I started.
I have finally narrowed it down to a firmware problem and have found new firmware for the printer that HIC put out but seem to be keeping a secret.Now
that I have the firmware, what do I do with it???

Being that I am new to this I do not have the foggiest idea of how to upload it to the printer control board or where to start, if any one out there can take
me by the, figurative, hand and tell me how to do this it would be greatly appreciated.

Since I am 80 years old I don't think I have that much time, therefore, an early reply would be appreciated.

Thank you for taking the time to read my request.

Henry

Here is the firmware for the hictop prusa i3

[drive.google.com]

I have received help from the supplier but you have to ask short precise questions.

How does one go about uploading firmware to the printer?, I have absolutely no idea
about how to do this.

I would appreciate it if someone with a thorough knowledge of the subject would post
instructions on how to do this. Please remember that I have no idea of how to do this.

As a reward to the individual, I will remember them in my will and leave them all of my
unpaid bills.(LOL)

Thank you very much,

Henry

If it has a standard Arduino/RAMPs board or combination then you need the Arduino IDE:
[www.arduino.cc]

What this does is take the firmware and upload it to the Arduino portion of the printer hardware.
You will need to know the board type (Most are Mega) also the port the board is on.

Run the Arduino program, set the board type and port, test the compile and upload to the board

Steve

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

Hic support also provides instructions for this, with pictures etc. You just have to ask the right thing

I wish to thank the individuals that took the time to reply to my questions.

I have tried the various suggested firmware programs and non of them worked properly. Hic sent this one Pls choose 3DP03 [drive.google.com].
So i tried to download this one but there is no place to download a 3DP03 version. I have a MKS Base V1.3 system board in my unit and that board is not listed when I try to find my board in the listed board files when I run Arduino.

If you have any suggestions please help.

Thnks,
Henry

The board is arduino mega 2560. The port is the last one usually, not com1 nor com2.

Hey Guys,
i have a question on how to compile and run the marlin code on to my printer-board with out an LCD, in other words how to disable the LCD function from the Marlin code.

background info:
i built my 3D printer based on the Prusa I3 using most of the parts recommended by reprap. I am using a printerboard and I currently don't have an LCD, but all the Marlin Firmware i found online is written to use with LCD's. is there a way to disable this?
i might be approaching this problem wrong, but.

The error i get when i try to run the code is:
for the line
"LCD_CLASS lcd(LCD_PINS_RS, LCD_PINS_ENABLE, LCD_PINS_D4, LCD_PINS_D5,LCD_PINS_D6,LCD_PINS_D7); //RS,Enable,D4,D5,D6,D7"

it says that

"LCD_PINS_RS was not declared in this scope"
how do i prevent this error from happening.

P.S i printed with this printer a year ago using an older version of the code and it worked but i cannot find the old code.

link to Marlin firmware used
[www.reprap.org]


Thank you ,
Esa

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2016 06:27PM by esaasad.

Hi Esa,

Apparently that old version of Marlin needs an old version of Arduino IDE to work.
I noticed it will not compile when using the latest version of Arduino IDE.

Go grab a latest version of the firmware [github.com] and work those changes into it.
Some parts have different names, (IIRC, endstops, board version) but you should be able to figure this out easily.

-Martti

I've had one of the eBay HIC's for a few months now. I'm going through some firmware issues myself. Here's what I've learned:
If you're contacting their tech support in China, good luck.
They have tech support in the US (Florida) which is somewhat better.

The problem, as I see it, is that HIC has multiple model printers and they are not necessarily labeled correctly when you receive them from eBay. Is it because the seller is bootlegging them? Is it because they are just incorrectly labeled? Who knows.

Here's what I'm suspecting (I'm trying to get it confirmed now), if you got the aluminum frame version, heated bed, and auto level, it doesn't automatically mean you got the 3DP12. If you're like me and went the cheaper route, you most likely got the 3DP11-ATL. How can you tell the difference? Look at the X axis 3D printed parts and the thread rod. If you have an M8 threaded rod, you have a 3DP11-ATL. If you have a lead screw and T nut, you've got the 3DP12.

I'm working on getting the 3DP11-ATL firmware now, but if you look at the device images on the HIC website, look closely at the differences in models. Let me know what you think.

Brian

Hello,
Just like to add that my ebay HIC HIC Perspex i3 Prusa worked just fine first time. However things I have had to change post build are:

Y axis rails were bent (ends to middle) by 0.8mm this caused problem only on large based prints. Replaced with new rails.
The Y axis under chassis has only three bearing and is made of Perspex, this warped after a few prints and caused separation problems as print job ran. Replaced with custom 3mm cut alloy bed with FOUR bearing.
The X axis rails where about 4mm too long and this caused the Z axis stuff to bow and caused print layer to be misaligned. Custom right X axis support was printed to fix problem.
ALL the cheap CRAP linear bearing were replaced with plastic ones before they destroyed the rails, wow runs MUCH better now.
The limit switch for the Z axis was replaced with a button only switch as the supplied leaver arm one was prone to false trigger position due to lateral movement of the left Z axis support. This caused repeat Z axis bed height to be variable.
To stop the Y axis sub chassis twisting I screwed the machine down on a 25mm ply bed...rock solid!
The bed heater cable used to get caught so I drilled the alloy bed and added a cable support.
The trigger to release the filament on the hot end is crap way too small, so I printed a redesigned one and put in a spring that a normal human could operate.
The Z axis rails lift up and pop out of the bottom guide holes causing X axis wobble. This was fixed with printed washer on top of the left and right frame.
Almost forgot, the 40mm hot end cooling fan was obviously second hand as was dusty and had rust inside...Must have been from recycled PC left out in rain for a month.

So working fine now!

Bought for a 3D print project some audio amplifier kits...These could NEVER have been tested as they had PCBs tracking errors so I had to cut tracks and kynar rewire the them.

And we are going to get HS2 and Hinkley Point from these guys :-) KABOOM

Maybe someone should translate "quality control" into there language and explain what it means.

For what it's worth, I finally received the correct file. I'll attach it here for future reference. Apparently the key to HICTop is that the board the LCD is attached to is red in color. Who knew? Again, this file appears to support the M8 threaded rod (the equivalent of all thread and not the same as a lead screw) and the bed auto level sensor.

Brian