Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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seabass07
Possibly a dumb question, but where exactly do we adjust the vref for the motors? I seem to be missing something very obvious.

Not obvious or a dumb question.

The screw head on the voltage regulator is "hot". Check tom's video (specifically at 5:08): [www.youtube.com]

Now this is what a printer should sound like: [www.youtube.com]

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Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Thanks! I'm guessing I need that ceramic screw driver that I've already destroyed.

Quote
seabass07
Thanks! I'm guessing I need that ceramic screw driver that I've already destroyed.

That or a plastic one.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Hi. So i just bought and built the i3 2020 and got most of the calibrations done to it, the X,Y, and Z axis are all moving well and stopping where they need to stop but the problem that I am having is that the extruder will not extrude filament when instructed to do so, it makes a clicking noise and wont feed unless I press down on the filament entrance lever. So I did some digging around and saw that i might need to adjust the extruder tension screw but I cant seem to find it any help would be greatly appreciated. The extruder in question is the stock 1.75mm direct drive extruder packaged with the i3 2020 kit.

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Bastion
Hi. So i just bought and built the i3 2020 and got most of the calibrations done to it, the X,Y, and Z axis are all moving well and stopping where they need to stop but the problem that I am having is that the extruder will not extrude filament when instructed to do so, it makes a clicking noise and wont feed unless I press down on the filament entrance lever. So I did some digging around and saw that i might need to adjust the extruder tension screw but I cant seem to find it any help would be greatly appreciated. The extruder in question is the stock 1.75mm direct drive extruder packaged with the i3 2020 kit.

I don't think that applies to this extruder were you looking at something specific to get Folger tech or just general info? They may be talking about a gregs/wades. You may just have the temp too low or the extruder motor current too low. What's in filament and temp?

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

So right now i am using ABS and the hotend is at 250c

Quote
Bastion
Hi. So i just bought and built the i3 2020 and got most of the calibrations done to it, the X,Y, and Z axis are all moving well and stopping where they need to stop but the problem that I am having is that the extruder will not extrude filament when instructed to do so, it makes a clicking noise and wont feed unless I press down on the filament entrance lever. So I did some digging around and saw that i might need to adjust the extruder tension screw but I cant seem to find it any help would be greatly appreciated. The extruder in question is the stock 1.75mm direct drive extruder packaged with the i3 2020 kit.

I had a similar problem when I first got my printer. some things you may want to check are:

1. That the extruder's pinion gear set screw is tight, and the gear is not slipping on the motor's shaft.
2. That the pinion gear is somewhat centered with the grooved pulley.
3. That the filament is not bending to much when it goes from the gear and pulley to the throat.

One thing to definitely look out for is that the filament is not becoming too soft near the gear and pulley that it stops feeding. Something that would happen would be that I would heat the hotend up, and leave it hot for a decent amount of time, and then the filament would soften and compress between the gear and pulley, preventing contact and stopping extrusion.

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Mach

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Bastion
Hi. So i just bought and built the i3 2020 and got most of the calibrations done to it, the X,Y, and Z axis are all moving well and stopping where they need to stop but the problem that I am having is that the extruder will not extrude filament when instructed to do so, it makes a clicking noise and wont feed unless I press down on the filament entrance lever. So I did some digging around and saw that i might need to adjust the extruder tension screw but I cant seem to find it any help would be greatly appreciated. The extruder in question is the stock 1.75mm direct drive extruder packaged with the i3 2020 kit.

I had a similar problem when I first got my printer. some things you may want to check are:

1. That the extruder's pinion gear set screw is tight, and the gear is not slipping on the motor's shaft.
2. That the pinion gear is somewhat centered with the grooved pulley.
3. That the filament is not bending to much when it goes from the gear and pulley to the throat.

One thing to definitely look out for is that the filament is not becoming too soft near the gear and pulley that it stops feeding. Something that would happen would be that I would heat the hotend up, and leave it hot for a decent amount of time, and then the filament would soften and compress between the gear and pulley, preventing contact and stopping extrusion.

All three things seem to be fine, I think the problem is stemming from there being too much pressure on the gear and it causes it to seize up, because when i put pressure on the spring gate the toothed gear will spin without issue

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Bastion

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Mach

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Bastion
Hi. So i just bought and built the i3 2020 and got most of the calibrations done to it, the X,Y, and Z axis are all moving well and stopping where they need to stop but the problem that I am having is that the extruder will not extrude filament when instructed to do so, it makes a clicking noise and wont feed unless I press down on the filament entrance lever. So I did some digging around and saw that i might need to adjust the extruder tension screw but I cant seem to find it any help would be greatly appreciated. The extruder in question is the stock 1.75mm direct drive extruder packaged with the i3 2020 kit.

I had a similar problem when I first got my printer. some things you may want to check are:

1. That the extruder's pinion gear set screw is tight, and the gear is not slipping on the motor's shaft.
2. That the pinion gear is somewhat centered with the grooved pulley.
3. That the filament is not bending to much when it goes from the gear and pulley to the throat.

One thing to definitely look out for is that the filament is not becoming too soft near the gear and pulley that it stops feeding. Something that would happen would be that I would heat the hotend up, and leave it hot for a decent amount of time, and then the filament would soften and compress between the gear and pulley, preventing contact and stopping extrusion.

All three things seem to be fine, I think the problem is stemming from there being too much pressure on the gear and it causes it to seize up, because when i put pressure on the spring gate the toothed gear will spin without issue

On my 2020, I found that, after taking apart the extruder, the toothed gear that sits back in the recess of the stepper motor was rubbing against the stepper motor housing and causing drag. I luckily have a small lathe and I cut down the diameter so it would clear the motor. Yours might be dragging enough to start skipping steps when the added drag of the filament feed is added to the equation. I'm sure mine isn't the only one that had the oversized gear drive.

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msaeger

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seabass07
Thanks! I'm guessing I need that ceramic screw driver that I've already destroyed.

That or a plastic one.

Take a piece of filament, straighten it, and sand the end to the shape of a screwdriver.

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Update:

Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once I receive my new Lead Screw Nuts and new Sensor.

Here are a couple photo, and here's a link to the X-Carriage album

Pxqnxg1.jpg

BM2drvG.jpg

w8O2Qbb.jpg

I decided to go out on a limb and do a magnetic Hotend mount (remix of this ONE), I really like this mount, it will allow easy maintenance and switching of the Hotends (I have a E3D Light-6 and E3D Cyclops), and it will also allow for a future upgrade I have planned ;-)

BCjfiPM.jpg

jdmkAuT.jpg

Sonny

Any chance of getting the STLs of your x-cariage posted? I plan on replacing all my linear components with v-slot eventually, but i have the materials to do the x and y now.

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tjnamtiw

Quote
msaeger

Quote
seabass07
Thanks! I'm guessing I need that ceramic screw driver that I've already destroyed.

That or a plastic one.

Take a piece of filament, straighten it, and sand the end to the shape of a screwdriver.

I ground down a piece of plex into a flat head. I have an endless supply of scrap plex. Filament is a great idea too. Thanks.

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bingham34

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Update:

Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once I receive my new Lead Screw Nuts and new Sensor.

Here are a couple photo, and here's a link to the X-Carriage album

Pxqnxg1.jpg

BM2drvG.jpg

w8O2Qbb.jpg

I decided to go out on a limb and do a magnetic Hotend mount (remix of this ONE), I really like this mount, it will allow easy maintenance and switching of the Hotends (I have a E3D Light-6 and E3D Cyclops), and it will also allow for a future upgrade I have planned ;-)

BCjfiPM.jpg

jdmkAuT.jpg

Sonny

Any chance of getting the STLs of your x-cariage posted? I plan on replacing all my linear components with v-slot eventually, but i have the materials to do the x and y now.

X-Carriage STL's

Y-Carriage STL's

I added therippa's endstop STL to the folder. There are also a couple "untested" updates in the X-Carriage folder. Take a look at the files if you have questions do hesitate to ask. For the most part you should be able to figure out the assembly on your own, but again, feel free to contact me if anything throws you...

How would I do that pls ?

Oh my that will be my next mods. That looks lo beautiful.

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
bingham34

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Update:

Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once I receive my new Lead Screw Nuts and new Sensor.

Here are a couple photo, and here's a link to the X-Carriage album

Pxqnxg1.jpg

BM2drvG.jpg

w8O2Qbb.jpg

I decided to go out on a limb and do a magnetic Hotend mount (remix of this ONE), I really like this mount, it will allow easy maintenance and switching of the Hotends (I have a E3D Light-6 and E3D Cyclops), and it will also allow for a future upgrade I have planned ;-)

BCjfiPM.jpg

jdmkAuT.jpg

Sonny

Any chance of getting the STLs of your x-cariage posted? I plan on replacing all my linear components with v-slot eventually, but i have the materials to do the x and y now.

X-Carriage STL's

Y-Carriage STL's

I added therippa's endstop STL to the folder. There are also a couple "untested" updates in the X-Carriage folder. Take a look at the files if you have questions do hesitate to ask. For the most part you should be able to figure out the assembly on your own, but again, feel free to contact me if anything throws you...

Perfect about to start printing tonight

I'm having a lot of trouble getting my SK8s to hold onto the chromed rods that the heated bed rides. Am I overlooking something? I've tried tightening the set screws like crazy, but when I manually slide the bed back and forth, most of the time it shoves one or both of the rods out of an SK8.

Quote
bstern
I'm having a lot of trouble getting my SK8s to hold onto the chromed rods that the heated bed rides. Am I overlooking something? I've tried tightening the set screws like crazy, but when I manually slide the bed back and forth, most of the time it shoves one or both of the rods out of an SK8.

This is a problem that a lot of people have experienced. Usually people just wrap some tape around the tip of the rod and it is good to go.

Quote
peeejayz

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
bingham34

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Update:

Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once I receive my new Lead Screw Nuts and new Sensor.

Here are a couple photo, and here's a link to the X-Carriage album

Pxqnxg1.jpg

BM2drvG.jpg

w8O2Qbb.jpg

I decided to go out on a limb and do a magnetic Hotend mount (remix of this ONE), I really like this mount, it will allow easy maintenance and switching of the Hotends (I have a E3D Light-6 and E3D Cyclops), and it will also allow for a future upgrade I have planned ;-)

BCjfiPM.jpg

jdmkAuT.jpg

Sonny

Any chance of getting the STLs of your x-cariage posted? I plan on replacing all my linear components with v-slot eventually, but i have the materials to do the x and y now.

X-Carriage STL's

Y-Carriage STL's

I added therippa's endstop STL to the folder. There are also a couple "untested" updates in the X-Carriage folder. Take a look at the files if you have questions do hesitate to ask. For the most part you should be able to figure out the assembly on your own, but again, feel free to contact me if anything throws you...

Perfect about to start printing tonight

maybe it's me but is there not a LH X-Carriage End Motor file needed for this too?

if i may ask, what source did you go to for the igus bearing replacement?

Quote
Mach

Quote
bstern
I'm having a lot of trouble getting my SK8s to hold onto the chromed rods that the heated bed rides. Am I overlooking something? I've tried tightening the set screws like crazy, but when I manually slide the bed back and forth, most of the time it shoves one or both of the rods out of an SK8.

This is a problem that a lot of people have experienced. Usually people just wrap some tape around the tip of the rod and it is good to go.

Thanks, Mach! That's it precisely. Once you said that, I remembered someone saying to use kapton and it worked.

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
peeejayz

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
bingham34

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Update:

Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once I receive my new Lead Screw Nuts and new Sensor.

Here are a couple photo, and here's a link to the X-Carriage album

Pxqnxg1.jpg

BM2drvG.jpg

w8O2Qbb.jpg

I decided to go out on a limb and do a magnetic Hotend mount (remix of this ONE), I really like this mount, it will allow easy maintenance and switching of the Hotends (I have a E3D Light-6 and E3D Cyclops), and it will also allow for a future upgrade I have planned ;-)

BCjfiPM.jpg

jdmkAuT.jpg

Sonny

Any chance of getting the STLs of your x-cariage posted? I plan on replacing all my linear components with v-slot eventually, but i have the materials to do the x and y now.

X-Carriage STL's

Y-Carriage STL's

I added therippa's endstop STL to the folder. There are also a couple "untested" updates in the X-Carriage folder. Take a look at the files if you have questions do hesitate to ask. For the most part you should be able to figure out the assembly on your own, but again, feel free to contact me if anything throws you...

Perfect about to start printing tonight

maybe it's me but is there not a LH X-Carriage End Motor file needed for this too?

if i may ask, what source did you go to for the igus bearing replacement?

LH is mirrored from the RH, I made them symmetrical for that reason.

I bought my Igus bearings directly from Igus USA out of RI. It's easiest if you email them to place your order, when I placed mine the bearings were not listed on their site...they might be now, I'm not sure!?!?

Edit: Igus Bearing # RJ4JP-01-08

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2015 08:59AM by sonnylowe.

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
peeejayz

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
bingham34

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Update:

Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once I receive my new Lead Screw Nuts and new Sensor.

Here are a couple photo, and here's a link to the X-Carriage album

Pxqnxg1.jpg

BM2drvG.jpg

w8O2Qbb.jpg

I decided to go out on a limb and do a magnetic Hotend mount (remix of this ONE), I really like this mount, it will allow easy maintenance and switching of the Hotends (I have a E3D Light-6 and E3D Cyclops), and it will also allow for a future upgrade I have planned ;-)

BCjfiPM.jpg

jdmkAuT.jpg

Sonny

Any chance of getting the STLs of your x-cariage posted? I plan on replacing all my linear components with v-slot eventually, but i have the materials to do the x and y now.

X-Carriage STL's

Y-Carriage STL's

I added therippa's endstop STL to the folder. There are also a couple "untested" updates in the X-Carriage folder. Take a look at the files if you have questions do hesitate to ask. For the most part you should be able to figure out the assembly on your own, but again, feel free to contact me if anything throws you...

Perfect about to start printing tonight

maybe it's me but is there not a LH X-Carriage End Motor file needed for this too?

if i may ask, what source did you go to for the igus bearing replacement?

LH is mirrored from the RH, I made them symmetrical for that reason.

I bought my Igus bearings directly from Igus USA out of RI. It's easiest if you email them to place your order, when I placed mine the bearings were not listed on their site...they might be now, I'm not sure!?!?

Edit: Igus Bearing # RJ4JP-01-08

ok, that makes sense!

found the part in a google search listed on: [www.igus.eu]

Finally assembled my e3d v6 last night. Also swapping to therippa's tinyflex extruder at the same time.

Was going well until I realized I ordered the wrong drive gear, I picked up the 8mm ID one and not the 5mm ID. Oops. Shouldn't go online purchasing late at night any more ...

Besides that, so far so good -- just need the gear to line up everything properly. It looks like the little 'point' on the extruder pointing towards the drive gear is too close, but, can't tell until I get all of the right parts.

Not sure what I did, but I tried to measure the vram and fried a driver. Fortunately, Folger tech supplied an extra one on the board. The usb wouldn't connect at all with the driver plugged in.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2015 05:24PM by seabass07.

Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring?

Thanks!

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foul_owl
Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring?

Thanks!

The heated bed wires go to the D8 terminals, and the Y motor wires go to the top middle motor pins.

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Mach

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foul_owl
Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring?

Thanks!

The heated bed wires go to the D8 terminals, and the Y motor wires go to the top middle motor pins.

Thanks, but I'm interesting in routing the wires. ie, preventing them from hanging loose. Right now I have a loose arc going from the bed up to the ramps board, but I can see that getting caught on the frame or similar.

A cable chain would be nice, or some pictures.

Thanks!

Hi again all,

I'm back at the printer after a sabbatical forced on me by a few deadlines. I started up the printer finally and got some really nice prints with whatever material the green stuff Folger tech sent with the printer. I bought a roll of ABS and it didn't print as well, even following the temp guidelines I found saying 230 for extruder and 100 for the bed. So I thought that the other stuff might be PLA, I bought a roll of PLA material and changed back to 190 for the extruder and 70 for the bed. Now I can't seem to feed through any material and when I use manual control the motor just clicks. I'm guessing my extruder is clogged, but is there a good method for cleaning it, I found several versions on the internet, the one I like best is to soak in acetone and then heat it with a torch and poke a wire through, but figured I'd see if the folger tech forum would have come up with a good method.

Also is there an obvious reason for degradation in prints? I'm making a temp probe and the first prints were pretty good, but then it started getting out of round and I couldn't fit the tubing in the print.

Thanks,

Dave

Quote
Davewerld
Hi again all,

I'm back at the printer after a sabbatical forced on me by a few deadlines. I started up the printer finally and got some really nice prints with whatever material the green stuff Folger tech sent with the printer. I bought a roll of ABS and it didn't print as well, even following the temp guidelines I found saying 230 for extruder and 100 for the bed. So I thought that the other stuff might be PLA, I bought a roll of PLA material and changed back to 190 for the extruder and 70 for the bed. Now I can't seem to feed through any material and when I use manual control the motor just clicks. I'm guessing my extruder is clogged, but is there a good method for cleaning it, I found several versions on the internet, the one I like best is to soak in acetone and then heat it with a torch and poke a wire through, but figured I'd see if the folger tech forum would have come up with a good method.

Also is there an obvious reason for degradation in prints? I'm making a temp probe and the first prints were pretty good, but then it started getting out of round and I couldn't fit the tubing in the print.

Thanks,

Dave

The way that I've unclogged the hotend is to:

-lift the X axis up about midway to give yourself room to work
-let the hotend cool
-cut the filament coming out of the top of the extruder from the rest of the spool
-unscrew the nozzle very slightly from the brass heat block
-release the tension on the filament still in the extruder
-continue to keep the tension off the filament as you untwist the nozzle completely out of the brass heat block, with the extra filament still attached.
-pull the nozzle down away from the heatblock, with the extra filament still attached in the nozzle
-heat the tip and sides of the nozzle (I would usually remove the tip of a soldering iron, heat the iron up, and put the cone tip of the nozzle into where the soldering iron tip was)
-once it has been heated thoroughly, pull the jammed filament out of nozzle by the extra filament while holding the nozzle with a pair of pliers or a wrench

Try not to break the extra filament off, or pull too much on the extra filament until the nozzle is out and heated. This will work only if the filament is not also stuck in the throat of the hotend, and as long as you still have the extra filament to pull on once you have the nozzle off the heat block.