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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Posted by Dan_FolgerTech 
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 13, 2016 05:31AM
Quote
mfisch
You said it works manually - was that using the LCD controller or Repetier/Pronterface? Does your computer show the MEGA as a device?

It works the machine manually using Pronterface or Repetier. Everything works until you go to run a .gco. I don't know about the MEGA. Where would you be looking for that. Under 'devices'? The three marlins I ran all had different 'motherboards' defined. I can't check now since I've just started a 12 hour print using the SD card, which works perfectly. I know I'm not the first one to report problems with the computer talking to the MKS board. I guess I'll be ordering another Raspberry Pi setup.


Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 16, 2016 10:14AM
Can someone help me and tell me what is wrong has my prints move up they seem to be getting smushed at the top closer to the base they are fine(minus the poor bed adhesion on this one) Printing in PLA at 195c. I am kind of lost on what this could be. I have checked my Z steps and they are moving in the right increments.
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 17, 2016 03:25AM
Hi folks,

Is it normal for the heated bed to take several minutes to reach the 90C temperature for printing with ABS?
I feel something is wrong here.
Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. the hot end takes much less to reach 245C

Thanks a million.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2016 03:26AM by karimm.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 17, 2016 09:14AM
Quote
karimm
Hi folks,

Is it normal for the heated bed to take several minutes to reach the 90C temperature for printing with ABS?
I feel something is wrong here.
Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. the hot end takes much less to reach 245C

Thanks a million.

It could be that your bed heating protocol is set to use PID instead of bang-bang. It could also bed that your bed max power is set lower than 255. I would also make sure that the thermistor is not giving you the wrong temps. On my printer, my bed thermistor is kinda faulty, so it reads 20c lower than what it is actually seeing.


Folger Tech I3 2020 Wikia page: [folgertech.wikia.com]

Custom Folger Tech I3 2020 custom search
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 17, 2016 08:24PM
The mega would show under Devices and printers in control panel for windows.Since your manual control was via the computer, it is seeing the mega.Maybe your comm settings are off and you are dropping characters or commands.

It seems like mine is dropping characters or commands. I will have to try using the sd card.The Pi came in so I have been trying to get that setup with Octoprint.
It is booting to a command line.


Folger Tech 2020 i3, Full Graphic Smart Controller
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 18, 2016 05:32AM
With Octopi, you WILL see a command prompt on the Pi. You then go to your PC and call up the command for your router > 192.168.1.??? (depends on router. Usually .1 or .254). Look down the list of devices for Octopi and see what its address is. That's what you type in the address bar to start Octoprint.

As for using a PC hooked to the FT5, it might have something to do with the drivers for certain PC's. Mine's an HP. What's yours? There's definitely a communications problem with the Mega board that hasn't fully surfaced yet. I continue to use the SD card successfully.


Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 18, 2016 05:36AM
Quote
mfisch
The mega would show under Devices and printers in control panel for windows.Since your manual control was via the computer, it is seeing the mega.Maybe your comm settings are off and you are dropping characters or commands.

It seems like mine is dropping characters or commands. I will have to try using the sd card.The Pi came in so I have been trying to get that setup with Octoprint.
It is booting to a command line.

Also try octopi.local in a browser. This should get the interface as well.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 18, 2016 01:41PM
Quote
crumb4life
Quote
mfisch
The mega would show under Devices and printers in control panel for windows.Since your manual control was via the computer, it is seeing the mega.Maybe your comm settings are off and you are dropping characters or commands.

It seems like mine is dropping characters or commands. I will have to try using the sd card.The Pi came in so I have been trying to get that setup with Octoprint.
It is booting to a command line.

Also try octopi.local in a browser. This should get the interface as well.

This octopi.local will only work if you have bonjour working, which is a Mac/Apple thing or some say if you have itunes or Safari working on your PC. Neither of those worked for me.


Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 18, 2016 02:09PM
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
crumb4life
Quote
mfisch
The mega would show under Devices and printers in control panel for windows.Since your manual control was via the computer, it is seeing the mega.Maybe your comm settings are off and you are dropping characters or commands.

It seems like mine is dropping characters or commands. I will have to try using the sd card.The Pi came in so I have been trying to get that setup with Octoprint.
It is booting to a command line.

Also try octopi.local in a browser. This should get the interface as well.

This octopi.local will only work if you have bonjour working, which is a Mac/Apple thing or some say if you have itunes or Safari working on your PC. Neither of those worked for me.

That is not true. Since I have zero macs or apple items. And no bonjour. Guess it would be if your router(or what ever is giving out DHCP) Is also your DNS server.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 01:06PM
Im having an issue with my printer. all my prints are coming out good however they are being printed in mirror image. if the print is the same on left as it is on right the print will come out perfect. its hard to explain, say you have a mickey mouse figurine that you want to print. For some reason you want mickey's right ear to be larger then his left ear. my print will come out with his left ear being bigger then his right.. so if i am printing am camera mount and need a hole on the left it comes out with the hole on the right. how do i invert this?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 01:35PM
Quote
crumb4life
Can someone help me and tell me what is wrong has my prints move up they seem to be getting smushed at the top closer to the base they are fine(minus the poor bed adhesion on this one) Printing in PLA at 195c. I am kind of lost on what this could be. I have checked my Z steps and they are moving in the right increments.

It looks to me to be a temp issue. PLA needs time to cool before laying down the next layer. On the part pictured, since it gets rather small at the top in comparison the the rest, it looks to me like there is not enough time for cooling between layers. The best solution is to add a part-cooling fan. This blows on the part as it's extruded. (only use for PLA, you would keep this off for ABS). If a part fan is not possible at this point, then most slicers have settings to slow down the print on layers that take longer than X seconds. You can try increasing this value, and see if that helps. I've also heard of people doing something as simple as getting a desk fan blowing on the printer, however if you are running heat on the bed, this will likely cool the bed too much.

--Andrew
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 01:40PM
Quote
iamquestar
Quote
crumb4life
Can someone help me and tell me what is wrong has my prints move up they seem to be getting smushed at the top closer to the base they are fine(minus the poor bed adhesion on this one) Printing in PLA at 195c. I am kind of lost on what this could be. I have checked my Z steps and they are moving in the right increments.

It looks to me to be a temp issue. PLA needs time to cool before laying down the next layer. On the part pictured, since it gets rather small at the top in comparison the the rest, it looks to me like there is not enough time for cooling between layers. The best solution is to add a part-cooling fan. This blows on the part as it's extruded. (only use for PLA, you would keep this off for ABS). If a part fan is not possible at this point, then most slicers have settings to slow down the print on layers that take longer than X seconds. You can try increasing this value, and see if that helps. I've also heard of people doing something as simple as getting a desk fan blowing on the printer, however if you are running heat on the bed, this will likely cool the bed too much.

--Andrew

Can you post a pic? I had an issue like this a few times one was bed wasn't level. Next was my z steps were off I needed to adust them. And then 3rd was a bad STL file.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 01:55PM
Quote
Ares2189
Im having an issue with my printer. all my prints are coming out good however they are being printed in mirror image. if the print is the same on left as it is on right the print will come out perfect. its hard to explain, say you have a mickey mouse figurine that you want to print. For some reason you want mickey's right ear to be larger then his left ear. my print will come out with his left ear being bigger then his right.. so if i am printing am camera mount and need a hole on the left it comes out with the hole on the right. how do i invert this?

This is not an uncommon issue for new builds. I'm at work, and can't verify ( try a search for "prusa printing mirrored"), but I think It means you have an axis and/or homing direction reversed. If you built FT stock (with the x-end stop on the right) then in the configuration.h file the X_HOME_DIR should be 1 (NOT -1) Note that changing this will probably require you to change the INVERT_X_DIR setting (false to true, or true to false) OR, flip the X motor connector around. (be ready to kill the power on the printer as you test this, as if things are wrong, it can cause the head to crash into the side.

During this, make sure the X endstop is plugged into the correct spot (in the MAX location, not MIN, again assuming your X endstop is on the right). For more specific help, post pics of your RAMPS board, so we can see the connections, and a copy of your configuration.h file.

--Andrew
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 02:53PM
Quote
karimm
Hi folks,

Is it normal for the heated bed to take several minutes to reach the 90C temperature for printing with ABS?
I feel something is wrong here.
Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. the hot end takes much less to reach 245C

Thanks a million.

I believe that this is normal. I've seen several posts with similar questions and no solutions other than trying to insulate the heating bed while it is heating. Mine takes several minutes to hit similar temps.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 05:00PM
Quote
CircleofOwls
Quote
karimm
Hi folks,

Is it normal for the heated bed to take several minutes to reach the 90C temperature for printing with ABS?
I feel something is wrong here.
Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. the hot end takes much less to reach 245C

Thanks a million.

I believe that this is normal. I've seen several posts with similar questions and no solutions other than trying to insulate the heating bed while it is heating. Mine takes several minutes to hit similar temps.

I too see lengthy heat-up times. It takes about 9 min. for mine to hit 100. I have a sheet of cardboard under my bed to act as an insulator. I'm not sure how well it does, as the aluminum under the bed gets HOT. I have also found that laying a piece of cardboard on top of the bed while it's heating up can cut 2-3 min. off the heat-up time. I don't do that much any more, as I have gotten confident enough that I don't babysit the printer at the beginning of each print anymore. Now, I usually hit print, then walk away.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 19, 2016 07:02PM
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
crumb4life
Quote
mfisch
The mega would show under Devices and printers in control panel for windows.Since your manual control was via the computer, it is seeing the mega.Maybe your comm settings are off and you are dropping characters or commands.

It seems like mine is dropping characters or commands. I will have to try using the sd card.The Pi came in so I have been trying to get that setup with Octoprint.
It is booting to a command line.

Also try octopi.local in a browser. This should get the interface as well.

This octopi.local will only work if you have bonjour working, which is a Mac/Apple thing or some say if you have itunes or Safari working on your PC. Neither of those worked for me.

I'm using a Dell PC with Win 10. There were Win10 communications issues with printers last year.. I tried printing form the SD card and it looked like it would work - until it came unstuck.

I used the octopi build which does not have a local by default, you have to add it. I discovered that later. I was just testing the Octo install on the Raspberry.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 20, 2016 09:01AM
Ok, I adjusted the code in my configuration.h file. Now my extruder is printing off the bed. Is there a way to readjust it's positioning? It is trying to print off the bed. When I kill print it would usually park it self in the center back position. Now when I kill the print it is parked off center. I tried to change the code back to its original form to see if would go back to how it was originally. This did not work either. Still all out of whack.

Any help would be appreciated.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 20, 2016 12:40PM
Quote
Ares2189
Ok, I adjusted the code in my configuration.h file. Now my extruder is printing off the bed. Is there a way to readjust it's positioning? It is trying to print off the bed. When I kill print it would usually park it self in the center back position. Now when I kill the print it is parked off center. I tried to change the code back to its original form to see if would go back to how it was originally. This did not work either. Still all out of whack.

Any help would be appreciated.

Post a pic of your RAMPS connections, and a copy of your configuration.h file, and I'll see if I can find the problem.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 20, 2016 04:04PM
Ok here is a pic of my ramps. Will post my con.h file in a bit.

Edit: it won't allow me to post a pic.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:11PM by Ares2189.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 20, 2016 04:14PM
here is my config.h

#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configurtion file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//User specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during startup.
//Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made
//to this build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " 5-20-15 " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(FOLGER TECH, 8 i3 Prusa Config)" //Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000
//#define BAUDRATE 115200

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 8 = Teensylu
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 245
#define BED_MAXTEMP 200

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define PID_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle; 256=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
#define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
// is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
#define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255 //limit for the integral term
#define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor withing the PID
#define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
#define DEFAULT_Kd 114

// Makergear
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same ferquency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you proabaly
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delived to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 256 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 256 // limits duty cycle to bed; 256=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED



//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// corse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignord if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 175
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 50, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,3840,90} // default steps per unit for ultimaker {78.7402,78.7402,200*8/3,760*1.1}920
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,5,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console

//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 225
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255


#ifdef ULTIPANEL
// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4

#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: [www.doc-diy.net]
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //_
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 20, 2016 10:00PM
Quote
Ares2189
here is my config.h ...

For the most part, things look OK. There are a couple things that need to be adjusted. You should not attempt any printing yet. (I know, that's a difficult thing, you want to get started!)

Steps/mm need adjusting. Z needs changing to 4000, and I'm sure the extruder is not 90 even. That will need calibrating too.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}

Now for the movement... Hard to say without seeing the build, but I'll give it a shot. (what issues are you having with attachments? You should be clicking the "attach a file" link then select a photo or vid.)

If looking at the RAMPS board with the power connectors on the right (this would be upside-down in comparison to most diagrams you'll find online, but is the direction FT has you mount it) Then the end-stop headers left to right are:
Z Max - this will be EMPTY
Z Min. - Z endstop should be plugged in here
Y Max - EMPTY
Y Min - Y Endstop should be pluggen in here
X Max - X Endstop plugged in here
X Min - EMPTY

I assume you are using Repetier Host.

Make sure in the Printer settings>Printer Shape tab that Home X = Max, Home Y = Min, Home Z = Min.
x min should be 0
y min should be 0
x max = 200
y max = 200
Bed left 0
bed front 0

Once you connect with the host, go to the manual control tab, and click the home X button. The x axis should move to the right and hit the end stop. If so, good. If it moves left, flip the motor connector around and do it again.
Now click the home Y button, and the bed should move back and hit the Y endstop.

Adjust the endstop positions so that when homed, the nozzle is in the front-right corner of the bed, in a location where it could print (ie not above the bolt head).

Using the jog controls should work properly: left arrow moves head left, Right arrow moved head right. Up arrow moves bed forward, Down arrow moves bed back.

Let us know your results.


Once you have movement working, you'll want to calibrate your e-steps. Follow this guide: [www.youtube.com]

--Andrew

One other thing, if you can't get attachments to work, and would like to text them or email them to me, PM me and I'll send you my info.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 10:04PM by iamquestar.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 21, 2016 06:01AM
The issue with attachments is it tells me file is too large when I try to attach. 614kb allowed.

Will make those new adjustments today when I get back from work. Thanks

Just to let you know the printer has been printing very well for 6 months now, just mirrored which I didn't notice on 95% of the prints.


PM your email or text I will send you pics of the ramps
Thanks for your help
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 21, 2016 11:33AM
Quote
Ares2189
The issue with attachments is it tells me file is too large when I try to attach. 614kb allowed.

Will make those new adjustments today when I get back from work. Thanks

Just to let you know the printer has been printing very well for 6 months now, just mirrored which I didn't notice on 95% of the prints.


PM your email or text I will send you pics of the ramps
Thanks for your help

Ah! Sorry, I forgot that it was the mirroring issue. I've PM'd you my email.

--Andrew
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 22, 2016 05:04AM
My folger almost finished, only missing a 8mm thread screw on one Z motor.
This was not buy from any kit, decided to build this printer because i have lots of hardware i was not using. After is finished i will put the printer at sell, is a cheap and good printer but only for beginners. The base of the printer is a folger model but is was heavy modify and i used a lot of pieces i have designed.

Some specifications:
-print area 210x280x210
-8mm rods on the X and Z axis
-12mm rods on the Y axis
-mk8 extruder with a carriage o metal and E3D v6 little hotend
-2,5A nema17 on the Z with a damper to reduce vibrations
-4 ruber feets to reduce vibrations
-Xbxo 360 was power
-heated bed with 200x200
-8mm threaded screw for the Z, secured at the bottom with a bearing
-On top there is a hand allowing to easy move the printer, the lcd is on top too and it rotate








ramps 1.4 case with fan:


Z end stop:


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2016 05:07AM by filipeCampos.
Re: Consistent under-extrusion on stock Folgertech hot-end
September 26, 2016 07:37AM
Heh! You were mostly right, but the devil was in the details. The heater and tube were perfectly healthy. The real trouble turned out to be that the filament driver gear was mounted about 1.5 mm too far back on the stepper motor shaft, so it didn't bear fully on the filament. It was transferring enough force to push the filament through without the nozzle, but not enough to actually give a consistent bead. I finally took the hot end about completely apart, unscrewed the 2 set-screws holding the driver gear to the shaft, and moved it a little bit forward. After I reassembled everything, I got pretty good ok calibration results. I tried a print and it's looking much better. Before, it was always under-extruding a bit. I suspect an assembly problem at FT that got worse over time -- perhaps 'cause those set-screws weren't as tight as they should be.

Now to track down the resonance issues on my Y carriage early in the print. Hmm. It seems to go away once the first layer or two are down. Might be a resonant frequency issue, where the weight of the plastic is eventually enough to damp things.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
September 30, 2016 04:48PM
Hey guys, I have a question I am hoping someone here has already experienced and solved: I am using mostly stock folgertech settings. I am trying to nail out some quality issues, and subsequently am printing out a bunch of 20MM cubes. In that process, I notice that no matter what I set the speed settings in Slic3r to, the print takes roughly the same time to print. Even when I set everything to something fast like 300mm/s.

The pattern I am noticing, is that it seems the top and bottom layers move as fast as I set the settings, but the vertical walls of the cube move at turtle speed (which is 90% of the print, and why it doesn't seem to change the print times, or estimated time in repatier). Unless I am missing something, the vertical walls should just be considered "perimeter" and "exterior perimeters," right? But the head moves on these layers ultra slow... I am assuming there is something in Repatier Host, or maybe firmware that is overriding the speed settings in Slic3r? But, I am honestly having great difficulty figuring it out. =/

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
October 01, 2016 12:25AM
Quote
Colt4D5
Hey guys, I have a question I am hoping someone here has already experienced and solved: I am using mostly stock folgertech settings. I am trying to nail out some quality issues, and subsequently am printing out a bunch of 20MM cubes. In that process, I notice that no matter what I set the speed settings in Slic3r to, the print takes roughly the same time to print. Even when I set everything to something fast like 300mm/s.

The pattern I am noticing, is that it seems the top and bottom layers move as fast as I set the settings, but the vertical walls of the cube move at turtle speed (which is 90% of the print, and why it doesn't seem to change the print times, or estimated time in repatier). Unless I am missing something, the vertical walls should just be considered "perimeter" and "exterior perimeters," right? But the head moves on these layers ultra slow... I am assuming there is something in Repatier Host, or maybe firmware that is overriding the speed settings in Slic3r? But, I am honestly having great difficulty figuring it out. =/

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!

I noticed that behavior with Repetier Host b/w Slic3r too. Try using Slic3r separately from Repetier Host or use Cura. Save the G-code using the slicer independently, then use Repetier host to load the G-code and print. I think it had something to do with how Repetier host communicates with Slic3r about settings and profile configurations.

On a hollow calibration cube, you might want to keep it slightly slow so that you don't overheat the part.

Also! A bit of advice I wish someone gave me. Print a big calibration cube. I printed some 20mm cubes, and measured 20.00, 19.99, and 19.79 in X, Y and Z respectively. I thought that deviation in Z was because I had leveled the bed kind of close for the first layer. Nope. My Z steps weren't right, and it was printing short. I only figured this out after I had printed three Kossel motor mounts, and the motor mounting holes wouldn't line up with a NEMA17. I printed a 50mm calibration cube, and found a ~1.5% error in Z. If I had printed a big cube, I would have found that error several kilograms ago.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
October 01, 2016 07:54AM
Quote
av8r1
Quote
Colt4D5
Hey guys, I have a question I am hoping someone here has already experienced and solved: I am using mostly stock folgertech settings. I am trying to nail out some quality issues, and subsequently am printing out a bunch of 20MM cubes. In that process, I notice that no matter what I set the speed settings in Slic3r to, the print takes roughly the same time to print. Even when I set everything to something fast like 300mm/s.

The pattern I am noticing, is that it seems the top and bottom layers move as fast as I set the settings, but the vertical walls of the cube move at turtle speed (which is 90% of the print, and why it doesn't seem to change the print times, or estimated time in repatier). Unless I am missing something, the vertical walls should just be considered "perimeter" and "exterior perimeters," right? But the head moves on these layers ultra slow... I am assuming there is something in Repatier Host, or maybe firmware that is overriding the speed settings in Slic3r? But, I am honestly having great difficulty figuring it out. =/

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!

I noticed that behavior with Repetier Host b/w Slic3r too. Try using Slic3r separately from Repetier Host or use Cura. Save the G-code using the slicer independently, then use Repetier host to load the G-code and print. I think it had something to do with how Repetier host communicates with Slic3r about settings and profile configurations.

On a hollow calibration cube, you might want to keep it slightly slow so that you don't overheat the part.

Also! A bit of advice I wish someone gave me. Print a big calibration cube. I printed some 20mm cubes, and measured 20.00, 19.99, and 19.79 in X, Y and Z respectively. I thought that deviation in Z was because I had leveled the bed kind of close for the first layer. Nope. My Z steps weren't right, and it was printing short. I only figured this out after I had printed three Kossel motor mounts, and the motor mounting holes wouldn't line up with a NEMA17. I printed a 50mm calibration cube, and found a ~1.5% error in Z. If I had printed a big cube, I would have found that error several kilograms ago.

Cool, thanks for the advice! I appreciate any help I can get! I also found my Z to be off when I first got my printer, I adjusted the steps, and it seems good now!

ANSWER: I found what the issue was in printing time, there is a setting in slic3r: Filament settings>cooling>slow down under "x" layer time. Set that to a lower value, and BAM!!
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
October 02, 2016 12:33PM
You might want to keep that number higher. What that does is reduce speed for small parts (or small portions of parts) so that it has time to cool. Else things get melty like a Taco Bell commercial.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
October 02, 2016 03:23PM


I'm not sure how I didn't smell this happening since I was 6' from the printer. I noticed that my print cooling fan was blowing on the nozzle enough to drop the extruder temps below the set temperature; the bed temperature was also well below the set point. I'm guessing that the fan is blowing far to hard and caused the nozzle and bed heaters to run for too long. The printer never did stop printing and the print turned out great. Looks like I have a fire hazard that I need to clean up before doing anything else though.
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