Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
markag
Got my kit in today. Everything seems to be in order. My boards don't look too bad, but I did have a question on the arduino board in the image. It seems like I might have a solder bridge, but it also looks like it might be intentional. Looking for some input there.

s729.photobucket.com

s729.photobucket.com

I also noticed my hot end is not square relative to the extruder. Question is, should I care? How do I fix it? I've never seen a picture of a 3D printer with it turned like that before.

s729.photobucket.com

Other then that, it looks like folgertech has switched to 5kg stepper motors across the board now. The package references older motor torque ratings, but lists all X, Y , & Z motors as 5kg motors. I'm assuming this is a good thing.

Any input on the board would be helpful. Thanks.

The solder bridge is present on all of my arduino mega boards, so it should be fine.

The heater block and throat is held in place by a setscrew on the larger aluminium block, so you should be able to loosen the setscrew and rotate the smaller block until straight.

---

Folger Tech I3 2020 Wikia page: [folgertech.wikia.com]

Custom Folger Tech I3 2020 custom search

Building this printer has been one of the most rewarding things that I've done in a long time, enjoy it.

I'd recommend the community build guide here - [github.com]

and theRippa's firmware upgrade here - [github.com]

I started with both and feel that they an improvement over the experiences I've read others go through with the original FT offerings.

So I have been using my F/T 2020 i3 for quite some time now and I don't know why I didn't think of this question before but here it is anyway.
Since our height limit is the carriage contacting the motors, which by the way, I have upgraded to the motor extensions, why do we have the hot end mounted so far low below the carriage? If we were to raise it up to just below the carriage, we could gain quite a bit of build height.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2016 12:13PM by MendingThings.

Hi Dan, and everyone else,

This is my first foray into 3d printing, and have done a small amount of arduino tinkering in the past. I just bought a Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3 (w/out LCD) and finished putting it together last night. I set all the stepper motor board potentiometers to the corresponding voltage in the build guide (side note, I was within .05 mv on some, and just couldnt adjust it finely enough to get to exactly .350 (X, Z, E) or .550 (Y) - is this OK?) and then uploaded the firmware and started tinkering in Repetier.

Here's where my problem occurred, and why I'm writing in to ask for your help.

I clicked 'X Home' and the extruder moved left along the x-axis and bumped into the threaded/chromed rod bearing holder and buzzed as if continuing to push, then stopped after a second or two. First, I thought that 0,0 should be at the back right? I figured I had needed to manually start it next to the x end stop at the far right so it would be able to travel the full 200mm to the left. I did this, and clicked 'X Home' again, and it traveled to the left and bumped back into the bearing holder and buzzed again.

I looked over my print shape setting in Repetier and I have this (attached). I copied the settings from the build guide, but the "Park" settings dont look right to me - do they conflict with the printer shape settings being 0,0?

OK, final thing: after bringing the extruder back to the far right manually a 3rd time, it no longer moves at all, and only a small buzzing noise can be heard when I try to move it with the Repetier manual x movements, although Repetier shows that it's x-coordinate is moving. Is my motor burned out? How can I tell?

So for the tl;dr, I have 3 questions:

1) Is it OK if my stepper driver potentiometers are slightly under or over the required voltage? For instance: needs to be .350mV, but can only get it to .352 mV
2) How come "X Home" on repetier brings the extruder carriage to the left? I thought "Home" was back right?
3) After my x-motor tried to push the carraige too far to the left multiple times, it now only makes a faint buzzing when repetier tries to move it right or left. Is the motor dead? How do I tell?

Also, attached is a pic of my complete build, note I don't have glass on it yet, but will be doing this soon.

Like I said, I'm a newb, so if I left out info or pics that might help to diagnose this, let me know. Thanks so much in advance - can't wait to get up and running and join this awesome community!!

-Rich Oakley

What version of firmware did you load and where did you get it from? The x travel issue is a firmware setting. Most likely the reason it won't move now is that it is setting against the limit

Hello,

I'm getting a lot oozing prior to a print. This is leading to strings and drags in the first few layers. Others have recommended entering a retraction code at the end of the print.

How do I do this?

I'm using Repetier-Host and slic3r.

Do I just insert the G-code line:

G1 E-1.2000 F1800

After the final G92 E0 line in the G-code?

Thanks,
John

I need to replace the control boards that came with my printer. Looking at your website, I see you are sold out of the 2650's and Ramps packages. Is that because the MKS combo board is replacing them? I have your 2020 i3. Will this board work??

I'd like to get an order going as soon as I can so any guidance would be appreciated!!

Thanks,
'hack

Quote
DynamiteHack
I need to replace the control boards that came with my printer. Looking at your website, I see you are sold out of the 2650's and Ramps packages. Is that because the MKS combo board is replacing them? I have your 2020 i3. Will this board work??

I'd like to get an order going as soon as I can so any guidance would be appreciated!!

Thanks,
'hack

Unfortunately, this board has been abandoned by many of the FolgerTech group in favor of Facebook. [www.facebook.com]

You will find John Folger there to answer your question although you might be better off emailing them. You can get the Ramps/Arduino combination at a lot of places including EBay. I also have the i3 as well as the FT5.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
Jmiceli11
Hello,

I'm getting a lot oozing prior to a print. This is leading to strings and drags in the first few layers. Others have recommended entering a retraction code at the end of the print.

How do I do this?

I'm using Repetier-Host and slic3r.

Do I just insert the G-code line:

G1 E-1.2000 F1800

After the final G92 E0 line in the G-code?Thanks,
John

That should work but you would be better served with a pair of tweezers or needle nosed pliers and steady hands to snag the excess just before the print starts. I use a Raspberry Pi and Octopi so I have the same problem unless I want to go down to the basement and catch it before it starts printing. Kind of defeats the purpose of Octopi, doesn't it?

You could also search for a 'nozzle wipe' routine. I've seen a few but haven't tried them.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2017 11:05PM by tjnamtiw.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
RichOaks
Hi Dan, and everyone else,

This is my first foray into 3d printing, and have done a small amount of arduino tinkering in the past. I just bought a Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3 (w/out LCD) and finished putting it together last night. I set all the stepper motor board potentiometers to the corresponding voltage in the build guide (side note, I was within .05 mv on some, and just couldnt adjust it finely enough to get to exactly .350 (X, Z, E) or .550 (Y) - is this OK?) and then uploaded the firmware and started tinkering in Repetier.

Here's where my problem occurred, and why I'm writing in to ask for your help.

I clicked 'X Home' and the extruder moved left along the x-axis and bumped into the threaded/chromed rod bearing holder and buzzed as if continuing to push, then stopped after a second or two. First, I thought that 0,0 should be at the back right? I figured I had needed to manually start it next to the x end stop at the far right so it would be able to travel the full 200mm to the left. I did this, and clicked 'X Home' again, and it traveled to the left and bumped back into the bearing holder and buzzed again.

I looked over my print shape setting in Repetier and I have this (attached). I copied the settings from the build guide, but the "Park" settings dont look right to me - do they conflict with the printer shape settings being 0,0?

OK, final thing: after bringing the extruder back to the far right manually a 3rd time, it no longer moves at all, and only a small buzzing noise can be heard when I try to move it with the Repetier manual x movements, although Repetier shows that it's x-coordinate is moving. Is my motor burned out? How can I tell?

So for the tl;dr, I have 3 questions:

1) Is it OK if my stepper driver potentiometers are slightly under or over the required voltage? For instance: needs to be .350mV, but can only get it to .352 mV
2) How come "X Home" on repetier brings the extruder carriage to the left? I thought "Home" was back right?
3) After my x-motor tried to push the carraige too far to the left multiple times, it now only makes a faint buzzing when repetier tries to move it right or left. Is the motor dead? How do I tell?

Also, attached is a pic of my complete build, note I don't have glass on it yet, but will be doing this soon.

Like I said, I'm a newb, so if I left out info or pics that might help to diagnose this, let me know. Thanks so much in advance - can't wait to get up and running and join this awesome community!!

-Rich Oakley

[www.facebook.com]
Everyone is over on Facebook now for some stupid reason! It's not really well suited for a forum IMHO.

Anyway, are you POSITIVE that you have your X endstop plugged into the X MAX set of pins, right next to the Y plug?? Also, in Repetier you must set under Printer Settings in the upper right corner 'Home X' to MAX. Try that. I assume you haven't been screwing with the Marlin firmware and switched things there. Does the X axis move left when you tell it to with Repetier?

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
MendingThings
So I have been using my F/T 2020 i3 for quite some time now and I don't know why I didn't think of this question before but here it is anyway.
Since our height limit is the carriage contacting the motors, which by the way, I have upgraded to the motor extensions, why do we have the hot end mounted so far low below the carriage? If we were to raise it up to just below the carriage, we could gain quite a bit of build height.

-019-083.png

In fact, people move the mount up to the upper holes in the plate when they replace the hot end with an E3D version, so go for it. I haven't moved mine since I now have an FT5 for the BIG stuff..

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
DynamiteHack
I need to replace the control boards that came with my printer. Looking at your website, I see you are sold out of the 2650's and Ramps packages. Is that because the MKS combo board is replacing them? I have your 2020 i3. Will this board work??

I'd like to get an order going as soon as I can so any guidance would be appreciated!!

Thanks,
'hack

Unfortunately, this board has been abandoned by many of the FolgerTech group in favor of Facebook. [www.facebook.com]

You will find John Folger there to answer your question although you might be better off emailing them. You can get the Ramps/Arduino combination at a lot of places including EBay. I also have the i3 as well as the FT5.

Well that is unfortunate. I hate FB. I have started an email convo but replies seem to take forever. I saw the control boards elsewhere but thought I'd give FT first crack at my business. I like their printer alot!!

I appreciate the info though, thanks!

Also, I see you'e using the BLTouch. Are you pretty satisfied with its performance? I was looking into bed levelers and I really want to keep my glass bed. This seemed like a great solution!

Amazon has plenty of boards available through Prime if you want to go with what came with the printer.

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
MendingThings
So I have been using my F/T 2020 i3 for quite some time now and I don't know why I didn't think of this question before but here it is anyway.
Since our height limit is the carriage contacting the motors, which by the way, I have upgraded to the motor extensions, why do we have the hot end mounted so far low below the carriage? If we were to raise it up to just below the carriage, we could gain quite a bit of build height.

-019-083.png

In fact, people move the mount up to the upper holes in the plate when they replace the hot end with an E3D version, so go for it. I haven't moved mine since I now have an FT5 for the BIG stuff..

I upgraded both my X and Y to 2020 builds

[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]

Then I took the chrome rods from the Y plus new 400mm lead screw when I did that update. Extended the 2020 on the side and have 198mm build height.

Quote
DynamiteHack


Well that is unfortunate. I hate FB. I have started an email convo but replies seem to take forever. I saw the control boards elsewhere but thought I'd give FT first crack at my business. I like their printer alot!!

I appreciate the info though, thanks!

Also, I see you'e using the BLTouch. Are you pretty satisfied with its performance? I was looking into bed levelers and I really want to keep my glass bed. This seemed like a great solution!

Yes, I have BLTOUCH on both my machines and love them. I also use glass. The latest releases of Marlin > 1.1.0 RC8 > even has direct support for BLTOUCH with scripts on the LCD screen to test it and reset it, if it's alarming.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
crumb4life
Amazon has plenty of boards available through Prime if you want to go with what came with the printer.

.

Have you purchased boards from Amazon. If so, any vendor recommendations??
Prices are good but some of the reviews are troubling. Heated beds seem to be problematic for the cheap clones. Not sure I want to learn how to change MOSFETs.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/05/2017 04:49PM by DynamiteHack.

Quote
DynamiteHack

Quote
crumb4life
Amazon has plenty of boards available through Prime if you want to go with what came with the printer.

.

Have you purchased boards from Amazon. If so, any vendor recommendations??
Prices are good but some of the reviews are troubling. Heated beds seem to be problematic for the cheap clones. Not sure I want to learn how to change MOSFETs.

Well funny thing is even FT's is a cheap China clone. So in the end nearly all are the same. I blew mine on my FT i3 and am using this one
[www.amazon.com]

Currently with out any issues. Heats up fine prints fine. And with amazon if it is prime and doesn't work easy to return and replace.

I have been running my printer now for about a year and half. LOVE THIS THING! But I am gearing up to do some upgrades. I want to start with auto bed leveling, I have printed a few pieces, servo mount and arm, but I am coming up short on where to go to find the code on how to do this or maybe a how to. Can anyone help me out?

Quote
Neverdone
I have been running my printer now for about a year and half. LOVE THIS THING! But I am gearing up to do some upgrades. I want to start with auto bed leveling, I have printed a few pieces, servo mount and arm, but I am coming up short on where to go to find the code on how to do this or maybe a how to. Can anyone help me out?

This will fit your 2020 i3. I assume that's what you have. I also have mounts listed for the FT5 and the E3D

[www.thingiverse.com]

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Neverdone
I have been running my printer now for about a year and half. LOVE THIS THING! But I am gearing up to do some upgrades. I want to start with auto bed leveling, I have printed a few pieces, servo mount and arm, but I am coming up short on where to go to find the code on how to do this or maybe a how to. Can anyone help me out?

This will fit your 2020 i3. I assume that's what you have. I also have mounts listed for the FT5 and the E3D

[www.thingiverse.com]

Thanks, I have a part printed that I am going to use for the servo bracket and the servo arm. What I don't have is where do I setup the auto leveling software? Is that in the config.h or how do I go about doing that?

Hey, has being a while that I don't check the forum... my printer is running like a champ, to the point that I'm thinking to get second one just for the fun!!!

I still do the manual bed leveling process after 5 to 10 prints or if I remove the glass to clean it and prepare surface to do some big print... but today I was looking online and i found the BLTouch sensor, did some of you have any experience with the little bugger?

Looks really nice and cleaner than the servo arm (I have a small fan installed on my hot end to help moving some air while printing so space it's kind of priority).

Thanks!!!!

---

Mr.Fus
<------------------------------------------------->
Green M3D (Running v.1.3.6.3Beta)
FolgerTech Prusa i3 (2020 Frame)
<------------------------------------------------>

Hello,
So I got my FT 2020 i3 built and printing; however I do have a couple of issues that I am unsuccessful so far in resolving.
1. It prints in a mirrored fashion. Meaning the resulting print is that exact mirror of what the original is. I can resolve this in the Repitier Host by selecting the "mirror" button, but really would like to permanently fix it. I did some searching and found some suggestions, but no luck so far. I still have more research to do on that.

2. The more important issue that I would like to resolve is the print size. I printed the 20mm test block and the sizes are all off on all axis's. (as well as being a bit distorted on the top x-axis) I have tried adjusting the bed and nozzle temperatures as well as used different brands of filament, but no luck. This is my first experience with 3d printing so I apologize if what I ask is basic, but I have had no luck so far and am reaching out for suggestions.

My setup is as follows:
FT 2020 i3
Repitier Host w.slic3r
FT supplied firmware
Printing PLA
Bed/nozzle temp heat: 70/219 ~ 0/200

Thank you!

Quote
Neverdone

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Neverdone
I have been running my printer now for about a year and half. LOVE THIS THING! But I am gearing up to do some upgrades. I want to start with auto bed leveling, I have printed a few pieces, servo mount and arm, but I am coming up short on where to go to find the code on how to do this or maybe a how to. Can anyone help me out?

This will fit your 2020 i3. I assume that's what you have. I also have mounts listed for the FT5 and the E3D

[www.thingiverse.com]

Thanks, I have a part printed that I am going to use for the servo bracket and the servo arm. What I don't have is where do I setup the auto leveling software? Is that in the config.h or how do I go about doing that?

Follow this guide to setup and get autobed level running with a micro switch
[www.youtube.com]

This is a 3part series. from the switch and ramps config all the way to marlin config. I do believe you need to have the Beta firware from Folgertech for the i3. Which is available on the google drive.

Quote
PonyTailSteve
Hello,
So I got my FT 2020 i3 built and printing; however I do have a couple of issues that I am unsuccessful so far in resolving.
1. It prints in a mirrored fashion. Meaning the resulting print is that exact mirror of what the original is. I can resolve this in the Repitier Host by selecting the "mirror" button, but really would like to permanently fix it. I did some searching and found some suggestions, but no luck so far. I still have more research to do on that.

2. The more important issue that I would like to resolve is the print size. I printed the 20mm test block and the sizes are all off on all axis's. (as well as being a bit distorted on the top x-axis) I have tried adjusting the bed and nozzle temperatures as well as used different brands of filament, but no luck. This is my first experience with 3d printing so I apologize if what I ask is basic, but I have had no luck so far and am reaching out for suggestions.

My setup is as follows:
FT 2020 i3
Repitier Host w.slic3r
FT supplied firmware
Printing PLA
Bed/nozzle temp heat: 70/219 ~ 0/200

First some pictures of the print would be helpful to diagnose the issues. What firmware are you running? The beta or the orginal?
The print size can be a few things. From the e steps not calibrated correctly. Z steps also. And extrusion not calibrated right. Have you calibrated all of these? The FT settings are an ok place to start but not the final say. And do you have a cooling fan for the part while printing?

Thank you!

Quote
crumb4life

Quote
PonyTailSteve
Hello,
So I got my FT 2020 i3 built and printing; however I do have a couple of issues that I am unsuccessful so far in resolving.
1. It prints in a mirrored fashion. Meaning the resulting print is that exact mirror of what the original is. I can resolve this in the Repitier Host by selecting the "mirror" button, but really would like to permanently fix it. I did some searching and found some suggestions, but no luck so far. I still have more research to do on that.

2. The more important issue that I would like to resolve is the print size. I printed the 20mm test block and the sizes are all off on all axis's. (as well as being a bit distorted on the top x-axis) I have tried adjusting the bed and nozzle temperatures as well as used different brands of filament, but no luck. This is my first experience with 3d printing so I apologize if what I ask is basic, but I have had no luck so far and am reaching out for suggestions.

My setup is as follows:
FT 2020 i3
Repitier Host w.slic3r
FT supplied firmware
Printing PLA
Bed/nozzle temp heat: 70/219 ~ 0/200

First some pictures of the print would be helpful to diagnose the issues. What firmware are you running? The beta or the orginal?
The print size can be a few things. From the e steps not calibrated correctly. Z steps also. And extrusion not calibrated right. Have you calibrated all of these? The FT settings are an ok place to start but not the final say. And do you have a cooling fan for the part while printing?

Thank you!

crumb4life,

I'm using the original firmware. Attached is a picture of my first cube with no cooling fan and the second (different file) is with a cooling fan. (I also has a problem with is printing mirrored images of the original)

The second print's X and Y axis actually measures much better, but the Z axis in about 2mm short.

I will look at what it takes to calibrate the 'e' steps next and try that.

Thanks!

I would suggest using the beta firmware located here
[drive.google.com]

Start with that.

Quote
PonyTailSteve

Quote
crumb4life

Quote
PonyTailSteve
Hello,
So I got my FT 2020 i3 built and printing; however I do have a couple of issues that I am unsuccessful so far in resolving.
1. It prints in a mirrored fashion. Meaning the resulting print is that exact mirror of what the original is. I can resolve this in the Repitier Host by selecting the "mirror" button, but really would like to permanently fix it. I did some searching and found some suggestions, but no luck so far. I still have more research to do on that.

2. The more important issue that I would like to resolve is the print size. I printed the 20mm test block and the sizes are all off on all axis's. (as well as being a bit distorted on the top x-axis) I have tried adjusting the bed and nozzle temperatures as well as used different brands of filament, but no luck. This is my first experience with 3d printing so I apologize if what I ask is basic, but I have had no luck so far and am reaching out for suggestions.

My setup is as follows:
FT 2020 i3
Repitier Host w.slic3r
FT supplied firmware
Printing PLA
Bed/nozzle temp heat: 70/219 ~ 0/200

First some pictures of the print would be helpful to diagnose the issues. What firmware are you running? The beta or the orginal?
The print size can be a few things. From the e steps not calibrated correctly. Z steps also. And extrusion not calibrated right. Have you calibrated all of these? The FT settings are an ok place to start but not the final say. And do you have a cooling fan for the part while printing?

Thank you!

crumb4life,

I'm using the original firmware. Attached is a picture of my first cube with no cooling fan and the second (different file) is with a cooling fan. (I also has a problem with is printing mirrored images of the original)

The second print's X and Y axis actually measures much better, but the Z axis in about 2mm short.

I will look at what it takes to calibrate the 'e' steps next and try that.

Thanks!

Quote
crumb4life
I would suggest using the beta firmware located here
[drive.google.com]

Start with that.

What will the beta software do for you that you don't get in the original software?

I still do manual leveling and am getting good prints - so what will I gain?

Quote
wild.bill

Quote
crumb4life
I would suggest using the beta firmware located here
[drive.google.com]

Start with that.

What will the beta software do for you that you don't get in the original software?

I still do manual leveling and am getting good prints - so what will I gain?

If it's running good, don't screw with it!!!! When you decide to put a BLTOUCH on it, Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 works great with no changes. I or any other number of people would be glad to share our config.h file with you.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
wild.bill

Quote
crumb4life
I would suggest using the beta firmware located here
[drive.google.com]

Start with that.

What will the beta software do for you that you don't get in the original software?

I still do manual leveling and am getting good prints - so what will I gain?

If it's running good, don't screw with it!!!! When you decide to put a BLTOUCH on it, Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 works great with no changes. I or any other number of people would be glad to share our config.h file with you.

That is why I asked because it is running well. Its like the EverReady bunny - it just keeps going and going and going. I find it easy to level the bed and the only thing I have changed on it is adding a part cooling fan. I have an FT-5 as well and have BLTOUCH, E3D, ... on that one and using RC6, and again unless I am sure that I will gain something I will not change that either.

Quote
wild.bill

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
wild.bill

Quote
crumb4life
I would suggest using the beta firmware located here
[drive.google.com]

Start with that.

What will the beta software do for you that you don't get in the original software?

I still do manual leveling and am getting good prints - so what will I gain?

If it's running good, don't screw with it!!!! When you decide to put a BLTOUCH on it, Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 works great with no changes. I or any other number of people would be glad to share our config.h file with you.

That is why I asked because it is running well. Its like the EverReady bunny - it just keeps going and going and going. I find it easy to level the bed and the only thing I have changed on it is adding a part cooling fan. I have an FT-5 as well and have BLTOUCH, E3D, ... on that one and using RC6, and again unless I am sure that I will gain something I will not change that either.

You sound a lot like me. My 'go to' printer is still the 2020 i3 because it just keeps going! I have the FT5 to with the BLTOUCH, E3D, and the Titan. It also runs well but I've used it mainly to run parts that I need multiples of for orders. I made a few things that required the height given by the FT5 but mostly groups of parts. The one advantage I like with the RC8 is that it lets you reset and test the BLTOUCH right from the LCD screen. It also does mesh bed leveling for uneven glass surfaces like the borosilicate glass I use. I manually leveled for a long time but I succombed to the lure of another 'gadget', the BLTOUCH, and haven't looked back. No more leveling at all now. Plus, the real downside of the FT5 is the crappy bed so the BLTOUCH solved that problem plus I only use 3 points, as you should, to level the bed close enough.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
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