Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Sneak Peak

QsgYFED.jpg

QW6yQLd.jpg

GhKcc8l.jpg

WWAYiUO.jpg

Beautiful!!!

Thanks guys, it's really taking shape...I just completed the design on the Belt Tensioner...

oxC7jwV.jpg

BTW: I'm reprinting the Z Bearing Holders (photo two)...I just can't live with that raggedy ass surface ;-)

I've completed my X-Carriage assembly (well almost ;-) all I'm lacking is a couple screw which I'll pick up tomorrow. I should be able to bench test it tomorrow night

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...

Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage

Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have

I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)

A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.

Sonny

In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

#Update Fixed
All I had to do was disable max end stops, which I had previously done but messing around in Marlin I accidentally changed it.

I am running into some trouble trying to implement auto-bed leveling using a RC servo and zenmasters guide.
The problem is after i run the G28 homing command I run G29 and the servo arm extend three times in the exact same spot, it does not move to different locations on the print bed.
I am wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue?

Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2015 09:48AM by Keary123.

Has anyone created a heat enclosure for their printer or found a need for one?

therippa do you happen to remember the misumi part number for those bearings?

Quote
therippa
In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.

Where did you get them from?

Quote
therippa
In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.

I was curious to see how much an improvement those are in comparison to the cheap china LM8UU bearings. I am going to try a set on my X and Y axis.

[us.misumi-ec.com]

Quote
sethmo

Quote
therippa
In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.

I was curious to see how much an improvement those are in comparison to the cheap china LM8UU bearings. I am going to try a set on my X and Y axis.

[us.misumi-ec.com]

Here's the link to the specific part, you want the LMU-N8 - [us.misumi-ec.com] . I'll post a video of a print when I get home from work today.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

I had a chance to spend some time dialing in the 2020 over the holiday. By running some of the calibration routines, things are looking much better.

I was able to print a fan shroud

[www.thingiverse.com]

but now I think I need to source some new screws. In the picture it shows screws in the top of the fan. When I took mine apart to see what I needed, the fan was screwed in on the bottom. No big deal of course, I just wanted to make sure I install it the easiest way. I think I need M3 x 50mm screws?

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...

Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage

Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have

I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)

A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.

Sonny

Update:

As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.

1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.

2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?

Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).

Sonny

Here's a quick video of my X-Carriage during a bench test...

Bench Test

Please keep in mind that once installed I expect it to resonate through the Z- Assembly and the frame somewhat, so I don't expect it to be this quiet...as much as I wish it would ;-)

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...

Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage

Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have

I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)

A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.

Sonny

Update:

As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.

1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.

2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?

Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).

Sonny

Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Sneak Peak

QsgYFED.jpg

QW6yQLd.jpg

GhKcc8l.jpg

WWAYiUO.jpg

Beautiful!!!

Thanks guys, it's really taking shape...I just completed the design on the Belt Tensioner...

oxC7jwV.jpg

BTW: I'm reprinting the Z Bearing Holders (photo two)...I just can't live with that raggedy ass surface ;-)

I've completed my X-Carriage assembly (well almost ;-) all I'm lacking is a couple screw which I'll pick up tomorrow. I should be able to bench test it tomorrow night

The carriage looks amazing, really nice work!!!!!

Quote
Mrfus

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
sonnylowe
X-Carriage Sneak Peak

QsgYFED.jpg

QW6yQLd.jpg

GhKcc8l.jpg

WWAYiUO.jpg

Beautiful!!!

Thanks guys, it's really taking shape...I just completed the design on the Belt Tensioner...

oxC7jwV.jpg

BTW: I'm reprinting the Z Bearing Holders (photo two)...I just can't live with that raggedy ass surface ;-)

I've completed my X-Carriage assembly (well almost ;-) all I'm lacking is a couple screw which I'll pick up tomorrow. I should be able to bench test it tomorrow night

The carriage looks amazing, really nice work!!!!!

Thank you

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...

Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage

Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have

I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)

A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.

Sonny

Update:

As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.

1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.

2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?

Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).

Sonny

Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.

That plate is 216x216, however, I just replaced the printed bed supports with the modified FT plate...this is the setup you want, that build plate is way to large and would be too restricting. Stick to the 20x80 gantry and drill and mount the FT Plate...



It is so much stiffer than the Rod-Bearing-SK8 setup!!!

I just noticed one of my lead screws has a lot of backlash...but only one (Motor Side)!?!? It's moving ~0.25mm...I'm now wondering if that has had something to do with my first layer being off sometimes (not maintaining a good Z height while adjusting for Auto Leveling).

I ordered a few new lead screw nuts but I'm considering adding an anti-backlash setup to Z. What do you guys think...is it worth it!?!?

Here's what I came up with so far...

Damn it...my proximity sensor just took a crap and stopped working...the only damn thing I don't have a spare of!!! I guess I'll be throwing an endstop in until I can replace it :-(

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
msaeger

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...

Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage

Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have

I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)

A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.

Sonny

Update:

As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.

1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.

2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?

Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).

Sonny

Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.

That plate is 216x216, however, I just replaced the printed bed supports with the modified FT plate...this is the setup you want, that build plate is way to large and would be too restricting. Stick to the 20x80 gantry and drill and mount the FT Plate...

JHWii8t.jpg

It is so much stiffer than the Rod-Bearing-SK8 setup!!!

Thanks for the update I did email them to see if I could change the order but they haven't gotten back to me. I won't bother changing the order I may look for a new plate though mine has lots of holes from previous modifications already

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

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msaeger

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sonnylowe

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msaeger

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sonnylowe

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sonnylowe

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therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?

I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.

Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...

Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage

Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have

I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)

A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.

Sonny

Update:

As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.

1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.

2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?

Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).

Sonny

Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.

That plate is 216x216, however, I just replaced the printed bed supports with the modified FT plate...this is the setup you want, that build plate is way to large and would be too restricting. Stick to the 20x80 gantry and drill and mount the FT Plate...

JHWii8t.jpg

It is so much stiffer than the Rod-Bearing-SK8 setup!!!

Thanks for the update I did email them to see if I could change the order but they haven't gotten back to me. I won't bother changing the order I may look for a new plate though mine has lots of holes from previous modifications already

As you can see, mine is in about the same shape ;-)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2015 04:38AM by sonnylowe.

On the X and Y axis noise issue: I replaced the LM8UUs with ones from MakerGeeks. They are slightly more expensive than the original ones, but less than the Misumi ones, so I don't think they are really high quality. They did seem to be better lubricated than the original ones, for example they came in a plastic bag which clearly had oil coating the inside. At first they were not much different, but recently (about 2-3 months after fiiting them), both the X and Y axis have become much quieter. I wonder if there is some wearing in going on, as I don't think I've made any other adjustments that could have caused this.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Been trying to get ABS to print right, got PLA working perfect, but I'm having big problems with lifting.

Do people remove there print cooling fan on ABS?

I can get my bed to 100degrees and hold it there. I'm using kapton take on the bed and the first layers stick perfect until it lifts.

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peeejayz
Been trying to get ABS to print right, got PLA working perfect, but I'm having big problems with lifting.

Do people remove there print cooling fan on ABS?

I can get my bed to 100degrees and hold it there. I'm using kapton take on the bed and the first layers stick perfect until it lifts.

I've had luck with ABS slurry/juice.

For Folgertech-Black-ABS filament I'm having success with these settings:

• 235HotEnd/85Bed (I'm too impatient to wait for bed to get to 100+).
• I did place a thin piece of cardboard wrapped in a single layer of aluminum foil between the aluminum y-carriage... Don't know if it helps really...
• Brim 5mm
• 0.2mm layers, first layer is 0.2mm with 150% first layer width
• Speed 20mm/s for first layer, I'm doing 30 now with no problems.
• Z-gap is not too large, or too small of course.
• ***Bed Leveling*** if not leveled then your Z-gap isn't good all around and that's bad news.

I upgraded my printer with the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX npn-type inductive sensor 8mm sensing distance, for like 4$
I didn't even get an aluminum print bed, I just took aluminum foil and put it on the underside of my glass the same way you would put kapton (spray water and remove air bubbles with credit card).

I rarely have to touch my leveling or Z-gap. Made my life so much easier.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2015 06:06PM by Uncertainty.

Hello all!!

Just got my printer together and have had several successful prints. The problem that I am having is that every time I change a setting in Slic3r the heated bed will remain on during prints. It comes on and heats properly but then it will not turn off once the printing starts. Only solution that i have found is to re-flash the arduino board and re-launch repetier software. Any suggestions?

Thank you!!

Edit:

Now it does it all the time. The relay on the Arduino stays on once printing starts.....

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2015 07:38PM by bruceleroy.

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bruceleroy
Hello all!!

Just got my printer together and have had several successful prints. The problem that I am having is that every time I change a setting in Slic3r the heated bed will remain on during prints. It comes on and heats properly but then it will not turn of once the printing starts. Only solution that i have found is to re-flash the arduino board and re-launch repetier software. Any suggestions?

Thank you!!

Edit:

Now it does it all the time. The relay on the Arduino stays on once printing starts.....

In repetier-host, under printer config, do you see where it says after print finishes >> turn off heaters?

Yes it is checked.

Very strange... and concerning.

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peeejayz
Been trying to get ABS to print right, got PLA working perfect, but I'm having big problems with lifting.

Do people remove there print cooling fan on ABS?

I can get my bed to 100degrees and hold it there. I'm using kapton take on the bed and the first layers stick perfect until it lifts.

You shouldn't use a cooling fan with ABS (but leave the fan that cools the hotend, I'm talking about extra fans if you installed them). I have great luck using a gluestick to make ABS stick.

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Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Quote
bruceleroy
Hello all!!

Just got my printer together and have had several successful prints. The problem that I am having is that every time I change a setting in Slic3r the heated bed will remain on during prints. It comes on and heats properly but then it will not turn off once the printing starts. Only solution that i have found is to re-flash the arduino board and re-launch repetier software. Any suggestions?

Thank you!!

Edit:

Now it does it all the time. The relay on the Arduino stays on once printing starts.....

Have you tried loading the firmware in my sig?

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!