Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 29, 2015 10:08PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 29, 2015 10:53PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
tjnamtiw
Beautiful!!!
Thanks guys, it's really taking shape...I just completed the design on the Belt Tensioner...
BTW: I'm reprinting the Z Bearing Holders (photo two)...I just can't live with that raggedy ass surface ;-)
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 29, 2015 11:14PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?
I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 29, 2015 11:25PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 12:16AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 02:57AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 2 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 08:51AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 08:57AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 51 |
Quote
therippa
In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 09:02AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 40 |
I was curious to see how much an improvement those are in comparison to the cheap china LM8UU bearings. I am going to try a set on my X and Y axis.Quote
therippa
In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 09:53AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
sethmo
I was curious to see how much an improvement those are in comparison to the cheap china LM8UU bearings. I am going to try a set on my X and Y axis.Quote
therippa
In my attempt to try to fix noise/play, I installed legit high quality ($5/piece) LM8UU's I picked up from Misumi. What. A. Difference. As quiet as a Drylin, but much easier to move along the smooth rods. If you don't feel like going the route of sonnylowe's V-slot system, I'd recommend these.
[us.misumi-ec.com]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 10:08AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 171 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 10:34AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?
I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.
Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...
Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage
Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have
I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)
A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.
Sonny
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 04:32PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 05:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?
I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.
Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...
Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage
Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have
I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)
A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.
Sonny
Update:
As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.
1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.
2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?
Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).
Sonny
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 08:32PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 62 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
tjnamtiw
Beautiful!!!
Thanks guys, it's really taking shape...I just completed the design on the Belt Tensioner...
BTW: I'm reprinting the Z Bearing Holders (photo two)...I just can't live with that raggedy ass surface ;-)
I've completed my X-Carriage assembly (well almost ;-) all I'm lacking is a couple screw which I'll pick up tomorrow. I should be able to bench test it tomorrow night
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 08:59PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
Mrfus
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
tjnamtiw
Beautiful!!!
Thanks guys, it's really taking shape...I just completed the design on the Belt Tensioner...
BTW: I'm reprinting the Z Bearing Holders (photo two)...I just can't live with that raggedy ass surface ;-)
I've completed my X-Carriage assembly (well almost ;-) all I'm lacking is a couple screw which I'll pick up tomorrow. I should be able to bench test it tomorrow night
The carriage looks amazing, really nice work!!!!!
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 09:29PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?
I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.
Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...
Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage
Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have
I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)
A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.
Sonny
Update:
As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.
1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.
2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?
Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).
Sonny
Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 10:52PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 11:16PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) November 30, 2015 11:32PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?
I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.
Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...
Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage
Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have
I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)
A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.
Sonny
Update:
As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.
1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.
2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?
Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).
Sonny
Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.
That plate is 216x216, however, I just replaced the printed bed supports with the modified FT plate...this is the setup you want, that build plate is way to large and would be too restricting. Stick to the 20x80 gantry and drill and mount the FT Plate...
It is so much stiffer than the Rod-Bearing-SK8 setup!!!
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 04:29AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
msaeger
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.
Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)
FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...
If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...
BOM
(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate: 20mm - 80mm (Universal) Wheel: Delrin Solid V Wheels (look at the bundles)
(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm x 80mm Length: 500mm Color: Silver
(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)
(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ
(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley
(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt
Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...
You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.
BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...
Not sure how to phrase this but with the smooth rod setup the rods are much closer to the edges of the build plate than using a single 80mm rail. Are you seeing an issue the build plate being tippy? Also are you seeing the printed bed supports deforming from the heat and pressure?
I am getting a new Y axis noise now so I am really wanting to just buy the stuff and use your setup.
Great questions and I'm so glad you brought them up...
Since installing the Y-Carriage I've been printing a lot of parts for the X-Carriage, and I can say there is no tipping at all. I think the V-Slot wheels provide great support and are plenty stronger enough to keep the build plate on plane!! Also keep in mind, there is little to no pressure induced on the build plate during printing...the only time you'd see it is when you are pushing or pulling on the build plate (removing parts).Even then I didn't notice anything, but that could be due to the support (see below). I think the setup is so strong I've gone with a 20x20 setup for X-Carriage
Now to the printed bed supports...they such...plan and simple. Too soft, too spongy, too weak, heat however, was not a problem!!! Simple solution...I am taking my old support plate to work tomorrow to drill it out to fit the Gantry, will replace the printed parts with it using (4) 6mm spacers (from OP). At least you we can fix this problem using parts we already have
I'll be able to confirm the "tippiness" (if any), of the build plate once the swap is done...maybe tomorrow if the X-Carrige test doesn't get in the way ;-)
A second problem with the printed supports that I realized only after the switch, was bed heating...it took for ever. The issue was the fact that the under side of the print bed was now fully exposed. I stuffed some insulation under the bed but the printed frame did support it very well, it did however help...a lot!!! I think having the full aluminum plate under the bed is a big help in heating the bed. I'll snap photos once I change it out, and let you know how things differ.
Sonny
Update:
As mentioned yesterday I was having problems with the bed supports. I have come up with two fixes.
1 - Simply use the aluminum bed support provided by FT and drill the appropriate holes to match the Gantry Plate (I'll do this today or tomorrow), install it using 6mm spacers to raise it up enough to clear gantry mounting screws. It would basically be the same setup as the original FT, just mounted to the gantry instead of the rod/SK8 setup.
2 - Buy THIS instead of the 20x80 Gantry Plate originally used in my design. I wanted to try the smaller gantry to keep things as light as possible, and afford the extra travel length in case anyone (myself :-) wants to try a larger build plate (200x300)...it will work with the smaller gantry!!! Also keep in mind and new belt tensioner would need to be design, I'd be happy to do this if anyone wants to use the aforementioned plate in-leu-of the 20x80 Gantry...Hell, I might try it!?!?
Please keep in mind, this is still experimental and being tested, I only released the STLs and BOM so therippa could take a swag at it. Once I'm 100% happy I'll post the final results, BOM and updated STLs (if they change).
Sonny
Are you seeing what size that build plate is I am not seeing it? I actually just ordered the gantry set you did and was thinking I would just drill more holes in the folger tech plate but maybe they would let me change the order.
That plate is 216x216, however, I just replaced the printed bed supports with the modified FT plate...this is the setup you want, that build plate is way to large and would be too restricting. Stick to the 20x80 gantry and drill and mount the FT Plate...
It is so much stiffer than the Rod-Bearing-SK8 setup!!!
Thanks for the update I did email them to see if I could change the order but they haven't gotten back to me. I won't bother changing the order I may look for a new plate though mine has lots of holes from previous modifications already
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 04:13PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 367 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 05:42PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 51 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 06:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 45 |
Quote
peeejayz
Been trying to get ABS to print right, got PLA working perfect, but I'm having big problems with lifting.
Do people remove there print cooling fan on ABS?
I can get my bed to 100degrees and hold it there. I'm using kapton take on the bed and the first layers stick perfect until it lifts.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 07:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 5 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 07:31PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 45 |
Quote
bruceleroy
Hello all!!
Just got my printer together and have had several successful prints. The problem that I am having is that every time I change a setting in Slic3r the heated bed will remain on during prints. It comes on and heats properly but then it will not turn of once the printing starts. Only solution that i have found is to re-flash the arduino board and re-launch repetier software. Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
Edit:
Now it does it all the time. The relay on the Arduino stays on once printing starts.....
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 07:34PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 5 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 07:36PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 45 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 07:54PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
peeejayz
Been trying to get ABS to print right, got PLA working perfect, but I'm having big problems with lifting.
Do people remove there print cooling fan on ABS?
I can get my bed to 100degrees and hold it there. I'm using kapton take on the bed and the first layers stick perfect until it lifts.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) December 01, 2015 07:54PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
bruceleroy
Hello all!!
Just got my printer together and have had several successful prints. The problem that I am having is that every time I change a setting in Slic3r the heated bed will remain on during prints. It comes on and heats properly but then it will not turn off once the printing starts. Only solution that i have found is to re-flash the arduino board and re-launch repetier software. Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
Edit:
Now it does it all the time. The relay on the Arduino stays on once printing starts.....