Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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Mach

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Mrfus

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Bert3D

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Bryg63
My extruder was running the wrong direction on initial start up. I changed the E0 to true from false in config.h to fix that problem as opposed to turning the cables around. Hope that helps...

#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

If the extruder is running backwards, all you should need to do is reverse the plug where it plugs into the ramps board. Just flip it over 180 degrees and plug it back in.

Thank you guys for the suggestions, I end up changing the connector at the Ramps board and now it's working as it should be!!

I was able to complete a manual extrusion test... I set the printer to extrude 30mm and end up with 28mm, I guess now I need to find on the Marlin the steeps per mm so I can recalculate the values (did some one knows where is located in the code?).

.

It is at line 484, or you could ctrl + F and search #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.

Hahaha... I found today that entering g-code to manually extrude X lenght (g1 eXXX) push out the filament instead of extruding... so the cable is back on the way it was!

I'm not sure what's going on, but we are one step or should say two closer to start printing something on my FT2020!

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The Sto
I was asked to post a picture of my board, so here goes... Still have to clean up all of my wires, but I won't do that until I get the darn thing working!

mYCL29l.jpg

According to the instruction manual, The plug for the X motor should have the red wire to the left. Yours is to the right. The instructions call this the 'Z' motor again. Also these things need to be done that are different from the instructions.>>


Change the following in configuration.h

#define INVERT_X_DIR true to #define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define X_HOME_DIR -1 to #define X_HOME_DIR 1
With the printer off PHYSICALLY move the x-axis stopper to the left one set of pins (this makes it so it's the x max instead of x-min)

Now if you are using rep host, you need to go to printer settings > printer shape and change home X: from min to Max.

One big glaring mistake in the build manual is putting the X stop plug in the wrong place on the board. It should be right next to the Y stop plug, not two over as the manual says. Also, for the X motor plug wires, keep them as you see. It's not a mistake to have them reversed from the others. I DID end up reversing the extruder motor plug because it was pushing the filament out the top!

The new spring design extruder has a brass feed gear that, for me, was rubbing inside the motor housing and causing it to drag and skip steps

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 01:52PM by tjnamtiw.

Hey, I recently replaced my hotend since I clogged it and I was wondering how it was suspending itself before? It seems you can just pull it right out of the extruder like its sort of floating and I feel like feeding the filament is just going to push it out. Thinking maybe I left a step out when retaching the barrel screw with the hotend?

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Slaghton
Hey, I recently replaced my hotend since I clogged it and I was wondering how it was suspending itself before? It seems you can just pull it right out of the extruder like its sort of floating and I feel like feeding the filament is just going to push it out. Thinking maybe I left a step out when retaching the barrel screw with the hotend?

The throat of the hotend goes into the smooth bore hole in the larger heat block, and is attached with a set screw. If you do not have the set screw, you can screw it into the threaded hole.

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Mach

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Slaghton
Hey, I recently replaced my hotend since I clogged it and I was wondering how it was suspending itself before? It seems you can just pull it right out of the extruder like its sort of floating and I feel like feeding the filament is just going to push it out. Thinking maybe I left a step out when retaching the barrel screw with the hotend?

The throat of the hotend goes into the smooth bore hole in the larger heat block, and is attached with a set screw. If you do not have the set screw, you can screw it into the threaded hole.

Ah, so there's a set screw on the large heat block that grabs onto the barrel/throat of the hot end? I'll give it a quick look over to look for any set screw.
(Found out. Dang, that's a smaller set screw. Have to look for my allen wrench set since this multi use one doesn't go that small)

Alright got it fixed. Thanks Mach!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 05:24PM by Slaghton.

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Slaghton

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Mach

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Slaghton
Hey, I recently replaced my hotend since I clogged it and I was wondering how it was suspending itself before? It seems you can just pull it right out of the extruder like its sort of floating and I feel like feeding the filament is just going to push it out. Thinking maybe I left a step out when retaching the barrel screw with the hotend?

The throat of the hotend goes into the smooth bore hole in the larger heat block, and is attached with a set screw. If you do not have the set screw, you can screw it into the threaded hole.

Ah, so there's a set screw on the large heat block that grabs onto the barrel/throat of the hot end? I'll give it a quick look over to look for any set screw.
(Found out. Dang, that's a smaller set screw. Have to look for my allen wrench set since this multi use one doesn't go that small)

Alright got it fixed. Thanks Mach!

Okay, so I flipped the X connector and now all 3 of my steppers work! Now my problem is getting X to move from left to right. I have the end stop on the left and once it hits the end stop, it won't go back to the right. Another issue I have is when I press Up it moves towards me and down moves it away from me.

I also can't get the bed to heat up. I had my Dad re-solder it for me as I did a terrible job. It looks nice and clean and is wired correctly, but won't get above 20 degrees Celsius. The extruder heats up just fine, I have yet to run any filament through it though.

It feels like I'm getting close, and it's just a couple hiccups to go...

Sorry, since you put the stop over on the other side, I can't help you.

I moved the stop back to the right, I've got it working semi well at the moment... Now I'm trying to figure out why my extruder isn't working, when it's been fine all along... I have it loaded into the top of the extruder, but it's not grabbing it to pull it through to print...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 09:58PM by The Sto.

Finally I printed something with my machine!

After playing with the levelling and adjusting of the extruder (it end up getting clogged because of my stupidity while feeding it!) I was able to print a 20x20 mm cube.



The cube end up being 22.03 mm what its F amazing for first try! There is only a couple of details that are going to need adjusting:

First 2 layers are a little bit wider than the rest (22.03 vs 22.33) I'm guessing that maybe the extruder was a little bit too hot at the start and PLA was running.

Second the top of the cube sagged, I have not added the extra fan for the cooling of PLA at the hot end and i feel that some xtra flow of fresh air is necessary when overhanging or areas without vertical supports are printed.



I'm using hatchbox PLA, first layer 190 degrees, 185 for the rest of the job... i have the heat bed running while was printed at 70, maybe i should just turn it down or shut it off (was kind of hard to remove the print from the bed and the painter's tape glue end up staying on the glass because of the heat!)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 10:44PM by Mrfus.

Your temps should be fine. It may be sagging on the top because your infill isn't enough. Set it to about 25% in the slicer. It should support the top better and make sure you have 3 layers for the top. The bottom being slightly larger could be because you set the first layer to be more than 100%. I usually set mine for 150% to get a good wide first layer and plenty of grip. All I use is my tempered glass plate and cheap hair spray every 5 or 6 prints. Temp set at 70 C.

Congrats. You're on your way.



As big a cactus planter as I could make today. Pretty neat.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 11:04PM by tjnamtiw.

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tjnamtiw
Your temps should be fine. It may be sagging on the top because your infill isn't enough. Set it to about 25% in the slicer. It should support the top better and make sure you have 3 layers for the top. The bottom being slightly larger could be because you set the first layer to be more than 100%. I usually set mine for 150% to get a good wide first layer and plenty of grip. All I use is my tempered glass plate and cheap hair spray every 5 or 6 prints. Temp set at 70 C.

Congrats. You're on your way.

Thanks, i just changed the setting for the infill to 25% and got the first layer to 125%... on my M3D I always print with raft and that makes really easy to remove the items but waste some filament, i will check if lowering the % on the first layer make more easy to remove the print from the tape.

It's really hot at the room where the printer is right now and usually have the AC running to keep it nice but i was charging the tablet and end up using the outlet of the AC... i want to add a light to the printer, maybe put a high output LED where the heatbed LED should go and print a small cover deflector to shine at the center of printing area!

On slicer there are some settings on fan for PLA... it's that the 5v fan that connects at the Ramps board? I was going to power my fan just as the extruder fan and get a DC Motor PWM Speed Controller to manually adjust the flow but if can be done on Repetier maybe i should think about taking the Ramps off the arduino and addind the header!

So I am getting beyond frustrated at this point. I have had several successful prints and a lot of fun with my printer but have continued issues with the repetier software. Sometimes it crashes when slicing actually almost always then. Sometimes in the middle of a print. Does anyone use any different software? I am very ready to try something different. Unless some one else knows a solution to this.

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tjnamtiw
Your temps should be fine. It may be sagging on the top because your infill isn't enough. Set it to about 25% in the slicer. It should support the top better and make sure you have 3 layers for the top. The bottom being slightly larger could be because you set the first layer to be more than 100%. I usually set mine for 150% to get a good wide first layer and plenty of grip. All I use is my tempered glass plate and cheap hair spray every 5 or 6 prints. Temp set at 70 C.

Congrats. You're on your way.

[attachment 65066 WP_20151031_001.jpg]

As big a cactus planter as I could make today. Pretty neat.

lookin good tj!

This was an excercize in support material. Slic3r did a fairly good job of including the proper support but not all of them actually touched which was kind of weird. Not sure if it's a fine tune temperature issue on my end or not but the image preview showed them not touching also when I went back. Anyway, I added some decent 5 mm brims and it seemed to fix my pillar adhesion issue. A couple minor imperfections but otherwise a pretty decent print by the i3.

i think I'm short in my z axis by about 50 mm. I have attached my stepper motors so that there are three attachment screws on the bracket. Can I slide the brackets up all the way and lose that bottom screw? Just checking to see if anyone else has done this successfully. Worried that there may be too much wobble if I take that third screw off.

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Neverdone
So I am getting beyond frustrated at this point. I have had several successful prints and a lot of fun with my printer but have continued issues with the repetier software. Sometimes it crashes when slicing actually almost always then. Sometimes in the middle of a print. Does anyone use any different software? I am very ready to try something different. Unless some one else knows a solution to this.

It may be the version that you are using since some of the newer versions seem abit bugged. I use version 1.0.6, and it does not give me much of a problem. The only real problem with it is that it commonly has connection issues mid print, but that may just be the nature of printing via usb. You could try using cura alone without the host to see if you still have the problems. Also, if you are having connection issues mid print, I would highly suggest getting a lcd controller with sd card reader so that you can print without being connected via usb.

Thanks! That hand of yours is REALLY awesome! Just in time for Halloween, too.

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Mach

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Neverdone
So I am getting beyond frustrated at this point. I have had several successful prints and a lot of fun with my printer but have continued issues with the repetier software. Sometimes it crashes when slicing actually almost always then. Sometimes in the middle of a print. Does anyone use any different software? I am very ready to try something different. Unless some one else knows a solution to this.

It may be the version that you are using since some of the newer versions seem abit bugged. I use version 1.0.6, and it does not give me much of a problem. The only real problem with it is that it commonly has connection issues mid print, but that may just be the nature of printing via usb. You could try using cura alone without the host to see if you still have the problems. Also, if you are having connection issues mid print, I would highly suggest getting a lcd controller with sd card reader so that you can print without being connected via usb.

My Repetier is totally unreliable when you give it a very large project to slice. For $12 plus shipping you can put, like Mach said, an LCD screen on your printer and have no more worries about connection problems.

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LancelotL
[attachment 65090 image.jpg]i think I'm short in my z axis by about 50 mm. I have attached my stepper motors so that there are three attachment screws on the bracket. Can I slide the brackets up all the way and lose that bottom screw? Just checking to see if anyone else has done this successfully. Worried that there may be too much wobble if I take that third screw off.

ok, duh, I can't lift it higher than the stock z rod allows. Until I modify anyway - lol.

So, I found out something interesting about using a inductive sensor for an endstop. You can actually connect the signal line from the inductive sensor directly to the signal pin on the ramps without an circuit to drop the voltage down to 5v. I am using a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX sensor, but who knows if this still works with a LJ12A3-4-Z/BY or a capacitive sensor. When you give the sensor 12v, the signal line gives around 12v and somewhere less than 10mA. When the sensor is triggered, it gives around 0.7v and between 10mA to 19mA. I guess it does make sense that you can do that without destroying the arduino, since the signal pin will never get more than around 20mA, which is the max current that the I/O pins on the arduino can safely get.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 07:00PM by Mach.

Alrighty guys, I've got all my issues fixed, ALMOST... I got all the axis working, I got the bed levelled, I got the extruder to work... Now when I try to print using Repetier Host, it says it's printing and gives me an estimated time on finishing, but isn't printing. I have the extruder up to temp, but it is saying Heating Extruder. I"m trying to print at 210, and the temp is 210. I'm not sure what is going on. I'm trying to print a Calibration cube, I've let the software go, as soon as the ETA has passed I'll see where I sit... Also, my Z raised about 15mm when I clicked on Start Print, and it is oozing filament...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 07:05PM by The Sto.

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The Sto
Alrighty guys, I've got all my issues fixed, ALMOST... I got all the axis working, I got the bed levelled, I got the extruder to work... Now when I try to print using Repetier Host, it says it's printing and gives me an estimated time on finishing, but isn't printing. I have the extruder up to temp, but it is saying Heating Extruder. I"m trying to print at 210, and the temp is 210. I'm not sure what is going on. I'm trying to print a Calibration cube, I've let the software go, as soon as the ETA has passed I'll see where I sit... Also, my Z raised about 15mm when I clicked on Start Print, and it is oozing filament...

Could it be waiting to heat the bed? If you have a fault in the bed heater, it might never get to temperature. You could check this by heating the bed with the manual control in Repetier Host.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

That's what I'm afraid of.. I'm pretty sure that I messed the bed up when I initially soldered it. I had my dad re-do it who is much better at soldering than I am, but it still won't heat. I'm going to have to order a new one, but I was hoping that I would be able to print without the heated bed...

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The Sto
Alrighty guys, I've got all my issues fixed, ALMOST... I got all the axis working, I got the bed levelled, I got the extruder to work... Now when I try to print using Repetier Host, it says it's printing and gives me an estimated time on finishing, but isn't printing. I have the extruder up to temp, but it is saying Heating Extruder. I"m trying to print at 210, and the temp is 210. I'm not sure what is going on. I'm trying to print a Calibration cube, I've let the software go, as soon as the ETA has passed I'll see where I sit... Also, my Z raised about 15mm when I clicked on Start Print, and it is oozing filament...

Not quite sure whats going on with the status, but it may be that you are having a connection issue. If it says it is doing something, but it is not actually doing anything, look at your temps and see if they are fluctuating a little. If both of them are staying at the same temp, there is a good chance that a connection error has occurred. As far as the x axis raising after homing when you press print, that is a normal feature to move the nozzle clear of any binder clips and such before it moves to the center if the bed. You can change how high the axis moves before a print, and other pre and post print actions by editing the custom gcode section in your slicer.

As long as you are not printing abs, you should be fine printing without the bed. Just disable it or lower the bed temp to room temp so that it does not bother trying to heat it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 07:23PM by Mach.

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Mach

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The Sto
Alrighty guys, I've got all my issues fixed, ALMOST... I got all the axis working, I got the bed levelled, I got the extruder to work... Now when I try to print using Repetier Host, it says it's printing and gives me an estimated time on finishing, but isn't printing. I have the extruder up to temp, but it is saying Heating Extruder. I"m trying to print at 210, and the temp is 210. I'm not sure what is going on. I'm trying to print a Calibration cube, I've let the software go, as soon as the ETA has passed I'll see where I sit... Also, my Z raised about 15mm when I clicked on Start Print, and it is oozing filament...

Not quite sure whats going on with the status, but it may be that you are having a connection issue. If it says it is doing something, but it is not actually doing anything, look at your temps and see if they are fluctuating a little. If both of them are staying at the same temp, there is a good chance that a connection error has occurred. As far as the x axis raising after homing when you press print, that is a normal feature to move the nozzle clear of any binder clips and such before it moves to the center if the bed. You can change how high the axis moves before a print, and other pre and post print actions by editing the custom gcode section in your slicer.

As long as you are not printing abs, you should be fine printing without the bed. Just disable it or lower the bed temp to room temp so that it does not bother trying to heat it.

I did find the setting to change to turn the bed off, so I've got that changed now. I let the extruder come up to temp and once it did, started a print. It started working the way it was supposed to, but it wasn't extruding any filament.

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The Sto
That's what I'm afraid of.. I'm pretty sure that I messed the bed up when I initially soldered it. I had my dad re-do it who is much better at soldering than I am, but it still won't heat. I'm going to have to order a new one, but I was hoping that I would be able to print without the heated bed...

It could be either the bed heater or the thermistor. With the power turned off, try measuring the resistance across the heated bed terminals on the ramps board. I forget the exact value you should see, but it will be a few ohms (2? 4? something like that). Do the same measurement at the solder pads on the bed itself. This will tell you if the bed is faulty or if its the wiring to the bed. In the latter case, it could also be the connections, for example if the screw connector on the ramps board is biting down on the insulation rather than the wires. If the bed is OK, check the resistance across the thermistor connections. Again, I can't remember the exact value, but I think it should be something like 100k. You can also check whether the thermistor is working by checking whether it shows a temperature change if point a hair dryer at it (with the hair dryer turned on ).

You can print some materials without a heated bed, and not all printers have them. PLA will sometimes be OK, ABS probably won't. Not sure how you turn this off in Slic3r/Cura, though.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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animoose

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The Sto
That's what I'm afraid of.. I'm pretty sure that I messed the bed up when I initially soldered it. I had my dad re-do it who is much better at soldering than I am, but it still won't heat. I'm going to have to order a new one, but I was hoping that I would be able to print without the heated bed...

It could be either the bed heater or the thermistor. With the power turned off, try measuring the resistance across the heated bed terminals on the ramps board. I forget the exact value you should see, but it will be a few ohms (2? 4? something like that). Do the same measurement at the solder pads on the bed itself. This will tell you if the bed is faulty or if its the wiring to the bed. In the latter case, it could also be the connections, for example if the screw connector on the ramps board is biting down on the insulation rather than the wires. If the bed is OK, check the resistance across the thermistor connections. Again, I can't remember the exact value, but I think it should be something like 100k. You can also check whether the thermistor is working by checking whether it shows a temperature change if point a hair dryer at it (with the hair dryer turned on ).

You can print some materials without a heated bed, and not all printers have them. PLA will sometimes be OK, ABS probably won't. Not sure how you turn this off in Slic3r/Cura, though.

It appears that my nozzle is clogged. I swear this printer is giving me nothing but fits... Hopefully this just means that all of my issues will be out of the way now, so when I start to really get going, it all goes smoothly... Doubt it, but hey, I can wish right? Not to figure out how to unclog it as the filament is stuck in the nozzle...

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The Sto

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animoose

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The Sto
That's what I'm afraid of.. I'm pretty sure that I messed the bed up when I initially soldered it. I had my dad re-do it who is much better at soldering than I am, but it still won't heat. I'm going to have to order a new one, but I was hoping that I would be able to print without the heated bed...

It could be either the bed heater or the thermistor. With the power turned off, try measuring the resistance across the heated bed terminals on the ramps board. I forget the exact value you should see, but it will be a few ohms (2? 4? something like that). Do the same measurement at the solder pads on the bed itself. This will tell you if the bed is faulty or if its the wiring to the bed. In the latter case, it could also be the connections, for example if the screw connector on the ramps board is biting down on the insulation rather than the wires. If the bed is OK, check the resistance across the thermistor connections. Again, I can't remember the exact value, but I think it should be something like 100k. You can also check whether the thermistor is working by checking whether it shows a temperature change if point a hair dryer at it (with the hair dryer turned on ).

You can print some materials without a heated bed, and not all printers have them. PLA will sometimes be OK, ABS probably won't. Not sure how you turn this off in Slic3r/Cura, though.

It appears that my nozzle is clogged. I swear this printer is giving me nothing but fits... Hopefully this just means that all of my issues will be out of the way now, so when I start to really get going, it all goes smoothly... Doubt it, but hey, I can wish right? Not to figure out how to unclog it as the filament is stuck in the nozzle...

First check you really are pushing filament through. Heat the nozzle, manually extrude some filament and as you do so gently hold the filament between finger and thumb to check it's being pulled through the extruder. If it isn't, something jammed, either in the extruder or an actual nozzle clog. In my experience, it's less often a clog than you might think. It could be just that the end of the filament is bent and it's not going into the nozzle liner. Snipping the end off the filament at an angle can help. Some people like to put a little canola oil on it to help it on its way, though I've never tried this.

Supposing it really is a clog: you can try raising it a bit above the bed, and then heating it and letting it run for a while. If you are lucky, the filament will ooze out. Heat it a bit higher than you would do normally, but no so high it burns the filament or liner. Say 220C for PLA. You can also use retraction in the Repetier manual control to get the filament out (that's the negative values above the extruder icon), then reinsert it and try again.

If this doesn't work and you know anyone who does welding, get them to give you a piece of welding wire (there's probably a correct term, I don't know what it is), or a tip cleaner. See the picture below for what these look like. Now comes the scary part. Remove the heat break (the rectangular block above the nozzle) by unscrewing the two M3 bolts that hold it on, then heat it up. If you have a tip cleaner, you can insert the finest size into the nozzle. Otherwise you can insert the wire into the top and push. Be very careful (a) not to damage the nozzle liner and (b) not to touch the nozzle. Especially (b). Also, don't set fire to your house.
[goo.gl]

I have cleared nozzle clogs and jams a few times this way, usually in case of special filaments (like timberfill) or when I've run things at the wrong temperature. But as I say, it more often been that the filament isn't getting through the extruder or isn't entering the nozzle liner.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

I'll try that.. The filament is stuck in the extruder, I can't pull it out, and I can't retract it out. I'll let it heat up a little higher and stay at temp for a bit to see that helps.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 09:05PM by The Sto.