Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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therippa

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Mrfus

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therippa

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Mrfus

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therippa

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Mrfus

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IWantToBeAPrincess
alright, day two of troubleshooting and my hot end is getting...too hot. Is this a common problem or have I missed another glaring obvious step? If not, I have an old heat sink I can wrap around the stepper motor to cool it.

7nh0mTi.jpg

here's my on the fly fix for a test print that's at 90%

I was able to resolder my thermistor and with a little bit of kapton tape it's fixed (I order one replacement from FolgerTech and one set like the one that Sonnylowe mentioned, let's see which one get here first), I just put today the endstop brackets (the original ones) and I think I got all the wiring right, tomorrow I will get the firmware loaded on the arduino, adjust the voltage on the Drivers, and install Repetier on my laptop so I can do a quick hardware check (not printing, still waiting for the borosilicate glass)...

What host are you using?

Not to be a downer, and I'm aware that there is failsafe code in Marlin, but make sure you don't leave the area while you're printing until you get your replacements. No one wants to see your place go up in flames because of a failed thermistor

I'm only using the fixed one to get the software running and poke around to get familiar with it and testing that the extruder heating element is running... I'm so limited on free time that if i can print something it's going to be until next week and according to the traking numbers the two new thermistors are supposed to arrive Saturday so i will have the extruder fully functional to print the test cube next sunday (?)

I have a question, when connecting the endstops i notice that there are more headers label endstop on the board. I followed the instructions and connected my on the 3rd, fifth and last connector (positive on top signal on the bottom).... what is the function of the other ports?

There is a min and max endstop for each axis. If you load my updated firmware, you're going to want to move the x-endstop one set of pins over to max (this is the correct marlin behavior, folgertech has it wrong in the guide)

Ok... so there are two sets of connectors per axis and we can have a max and min endstop, it make sense, avoid damaging the machine when the values input are out of the physical limits of movement for the printer. I have my end stop for X on the right side and I'm ready to upload your firmware, did I need to change the endstop to the left side and move the connector to the 5fth position or it's ok if i keep it physically on the right side and only change the position of the Dupont connector from row 6 to 5?

endstops.jpg

by the way I have the 2004 LCD and want to install it now, I found on the RepRap wiki that I need to change the follow lines on Marlin to get it working:

"In "Configuration.h”
Change line 46 to #define MOTHERBOARD 33
Change line 306 to #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER (just remove the // at the beginning)
Change line 326 to #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel (just remove the // at the beginning)
Switch over to "Pins.h" and change line 318 to #define RAMPS_V_1_3 (just remove the // at the beginning)
Upload the firmware, power off the Arduino, connect the panel, reapply power, and everything should work."

This changes are mention for V1 of Marlin, did the same changes need to be made on your updated firmware?

You keep the physical location of the endstop on the right side, and move the dupont connector. You'll also need to change X-endstop to MAX in your host.

As for the LCD stuff, I already have the 2004 LCD enabled in the build, so it should work without having to change anything.

I was enabling the EEPROM settings on the configuration.h file and while saving I end up getting a general error about file extension changes from .pde to .ino... I'm not sure if the change will affect the functionality of the marlin on the printer of it should work as intended when the code is compiled and sended to the arduino.

my experience on arduino microcontrollers tell me that there should not be any problem.

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Mrfus

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therippa

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Mrfus

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therippa

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Mrfus

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therippa

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Mrfus

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IWantToBeAPrincess
alright, day two of troubleshooting and my hot end is getting...too hot. Is this a common problem or have I missed another glaring obvious step? If not, I have an old heat sink I can wrap around the stepper motor to cool it.

7nh0mTi.jpg

here's my on the fly fix for a test print that's at 90%

I was able to resolder my thermistor and with a little bit of kapton tape it's fixed (I order one replacement from FolgerTech and one set like the one that Sonnylowe mentioned, let's see which one get here first), I just put today the endstop brackets (the original ones) and I think I got all the wiring right, tomorrow I will get the firmware loaded on the arduino, adjust the voltage on the Drivers, and install Repetier on my laptop so I can do a quick hardware check (not printing, still waiting for the borosilicate glass)...

What host are you using?

Not to be a downer, and I'm aware that there is failsafe code in Marlin, but make sure you don't leave the area while you're printing until you get your replacements. No one wants to see your place go up in flames because of a failed thermistor

I'm only using the fixed one to get the software running and poke around to get familiar with it and testing that the extruder heating element is running... I'm so limited on free time that if i can print something it's going to be until next week and according to the traking numbers the two new thermistors are supposed to arrive Saturday so i will have the extruder fully functional to print the test cube next sunday (?)

I have a question, when connecting the endstops i notice that there are more headers label endstop on the board. I followed the instructions and connected my on the 3rd, fifth and last connector (positive on top signal on the bottom).... what is the function of the other ports?

There is a min and max endstop for each axis. If you load my updated firmware, you're going to want to move the x-endstop one set of pins over to max (this is the correct marlin behavior, folgertech has it wrong in the guide)

Ok... so there are two sets of connectors per axis and we can have a max and min endstop, it make sense, avoid damaging the machine when the values input are out of the physical limits of movement for the printer. I have my end stop for X on the right side and I'm ready to upload your firmware, did I need to change the endstop to the left side and move the connector to the 5fth position or it's ok if i keep it physically on the right side and only change the position of the Dupont connector from row 6 to 5?

endstops.jpg

by the way I have the 2004 LCD and want to install it now, I found on the RepRap wiki that I need to change the follow lines on Marlin to get it working:

"In "Configuration.h”
Change line 46 to #define MOTHERBOARD 33
Change line 306 to #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER (just remove the // at the beginning)
Change line 326 to #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel (just remove the // at the beginning)
Switch over to "Pins.h" and change line 318 to #define RAMPS_V_1_3 (just remove the // at the beginning)
Upload the firmware, power off the Arduino, connect the panel, reapply power, and everything should work."

This changes are mention for V1 of Marlin, did the same changes need to be made on your updated firmware?

You keep the physical location of the endstop on the right side, and move the dupont connector. You'll also need to change X-endstop to MAX in your host.

As for the LCD stuff, I already have the 2004 LCD enabled in the build, so it should work without having to change anything.

I was enabling the EEPROM settings on the configuration.h file and while saving I end up getting a general error about file extension changes from .pde to .ino... I'm not sure if the change will affect the functionality of the marlin on the printer of it should work as intended when the code is compiled and sended to the arduino.

my experience on arduino microcontrollers tell me that there should not be any problem.

pde is just the old arudino extension, it's ino now. And there is a file called marlin.ino you can open instead.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

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if i press .1,1, or 10 it barely turns and makes sort of a higher pitched woo-wee-woo sound

Adjust your extruder stepper driver.

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LancelotL
[attachment 64344 image.jpg][attachment 64345 image.jpg]Though you guys might like to see this. I am learning the ins and outs of support material. They weren't perfect for the helmet but they don't have to be. Some were a little thin and it took me awhile to figure out how to properly attach them at the base. Sorry I don't have shots of the helmet before I took the supports out. Pulling them off was a piece of cake. I may do this one again at half the letter height. This one was 0.2 mm. I continue to be amazed by this kit!

LancelotL,

Great looking prints!!! What software are you using to slice and create support material!?!? I don't see where Cura or Slic3r allow you to have much control over support material...unless I'm missing something (it won't be the first time ;-)

Sonny

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therippa

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sonnylowe

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therippa

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tjnamtiw
I got to test out my cooling fan shroud for the X axis motor over the weekend. [www.thingiverse.com]

Before I had it mounted, the motor would typically run 135 F as measured with a surface pyrometer. Now with the fan running, after 1 1/2 hours of intense movement , it's staying at 90 F! That gives me some piece of mind.

Yeah, if your x-axis motor is too hot, you have your driver's voltage set too high.

Also, anyone interested in seeing what it takes to print Ninjaflex with a bowden setup?

vCS1Gmc.jpg

More details to come soon...

I would love to know if that would work...I have a couple Nijaflex project in mind and the Bowden Extruder thing is holding me back...

It does work! I did a lot of research trying to find an extruder that can handle the filament, and this one was the best I could find. Only problem is it requires a stiff 7mmx30mm spring, but all I could find was a soft spring, and it was causing the gear to slip on ABS. I had a 7mmx20mm spring laying around from my old Folgertech extruder, so I remixed the part to the use it. I'm going to reprint this piece mirrored and rotate the motor direction, you'll see why when I post a pic of the installed extruder later.

After printing a bracelet for calibration, I printed this octopus and took a poorly lit photo last night...

VgTRWin.jpg

Happy enough with the results, I didn't expect to have it come out as clean as my ABS prints.

A few things were learned printing this stuff...
1. Because the extruder compresses the filament as it pushes it out, I lose about 10% of extruded length (when extruding 50mm of filament, I get ~45mm), so you'll have to up your extrusion multiplier in your host.
2. This stuff really doesn't want to start flowing until all of the previous is completely out of the extruder. Its melted viscosity made it difficult to push out the last bits of ABS, but it was eventually able to do it.
3. Since it's compressing inside the bowden tube, you need a decent amount of pressure behind it to get a good stream going when it's time to print. To fix this I print 7 skirt lines.

My Ninjaflex is "out for delivery" so hopefully I'll get to play around with it this weekend. I'll share my experiences once I do. I'll be using my current setup Kuro's Compact Extruder, but if that gives me too much grief I'll try the one therippa suggest.

To be continued...

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kn4ud

The X axis assembly is the one that was done by therippa. The lower support in the picture has a bearing in it for 5mm. I turned the end of the 8mm screw down to 5mm.

Which X axis assembly? I tried looking and haven't found it.. I saw it before but didn't keep track. Is it the same one he uses with his bowden setup?

I'm starting to look into different extruder.. while I am at it.. should change out the carriage.

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srcga

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kn4ud

The X axis assembly is the one that was done by therippa. The lower support in the picture has a bearing in it for 5mm. I turned the end of the 8mm screw down to 5mm.

Which X axis assembly? I tried looking and haven't found it.. I saw it before but didn't keep track. Is it the same one he uses with his bowden setup?

I'm starting to look into different extruder.. while I am at it.. should change out the carriage.

I used the same x-carriage animoose used - [moosteria.blogspot.com]

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

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therippa

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srcga

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kn4ud

The X axis assembly is the one that was done by therippa. The lower support in the picture has a bearing in it for 5mm. I turned the end of the 8mm screw down to 5mm.

Which X axis assembly? I tried looking and haven't found it.. I saw it before but didn't keep track. Is it the same one he uses with his bowden setup?

I'm starting to look into different extruder.. while I am at it.. should change out the carriage.

I used the same x-carriage animoose used - [moosteria.blogspot.com]

Thanks, that is the blog I "saved" but couldn't find. Followed that before I did my own. Apparently I suck at bookmarking.

So I am attempting to print the t-rex skull which is one of the more popular things to download from Thingiverse. The model looks amazing but I am running into a few snags. It's not a simple geometry like my prior prints and there are a lot of complex curves and angles. I get about 1/4" up from my build plate and the outer edges of some of the print areas start to curve up above the build plane as the layers cool. I'm assuming this is a cooling issue so I am working on getting my cooling fans now, but I wanted to check and see if anyone can verify that is in fact the problem. Thanks! I'll send some pictures later if it will help.

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LancelotL
So I am attempting to print the t-rex skull which is one of the more popular things to download from Thingiverse. The model looks amazing but I am running into a few snags. It's not a simple geometry like my prior prints and there are a lot of complex curves and angles. I get about 1/4" up from my build plate and the outer edges of some of the print areas start to curve up above the build plane as the layers cool. I'm assuming this is a cooling issue so I am working on getting my cooling fans now, but I wanted to check and see if anyone can verify that is in fact the problem. Thanks! I'll send some pictures later if it will help.

What material are you printing in? If it's PLA, the fan will help.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

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therippa

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LancelotL
So I am attempting to print the t-rex skull which is one of the more popular things to download from Thingiverse. The model looks amazing but I am running into a few snags. It's not a simple geometry like my prior prints and there are a lot of complex curves and angles. I get about 1/4" up from my build plate and the outer edges of some of the print areas start to curve up above the build plane as the layers cool. I'm assuming this is a cooling issue so I am working on getting my cooling fans now, but I wanted to check and see if anyone can verify that is in fact the problem. Thanks! I'll send some pictures later if it will help.

What material are you printing in? If it's PLA, the fan will help.

Trying to print with ABS

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LancelotL

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therippa

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LancelotL
So I am attempting to print the t-rex skull which is one of the more popular things to download from Thingiverse. The model looks amazing but I am running into a few snags. It's not a simple geometry like my prior prints and there are a lot of complex curves and angles. I get about 1/4" up from my build plate and the outer edges of some of the print areas start to curve up above the build plane as the layers cool. I'm assuming this is a cooling issue so I am working on getting my cooling fans now, but I wanted to check and see if anyone can verify that is in fact the problem. Thanks! I'll send some pictures later if it will help.

What material are you printing in? If it's PLA, the fan will help.

Trying to print with ABS

You don't want a fan when using ABS. Have you tried using supports to give the overhanging layers something to stick to?

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

We're now up to 68 pages on this thread, which makes finding things quite a challenge. I set up a Google Custom Search Engine which might make it easier. Try this link: [cse.google.com]

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

This came out nice in transparent yellow. Made it for one of the kids. But I was thinking after I printed it, that a hole in the belly and a magnet glued there would make a,cool frig magnet..
imagur

I got my mirroring issue all sorted out! Thank you so much Mrfus. I have more permanent cooling for the hot end too



lots of spare parts! and all that wire on the left was what I cut out.


now onto printing improvements! I'm making lights and a holder for the display and SD card reader and loads of miscellaneous crap!

My printer it's working!

Today I got on the mail the two thermistors so I decide to install the screw in and keep the one from FolgerTech on the bag as backup.

After uploading the firmware and setting Repetier I was able to adjust the end stops for the X and Y axis and get the Z almost ready, plus I was able to test heating bed and heating element on the extruder... the only steeper that I wasn't able to test was the one on the extruder, everytime that I try to make it go Repetier keep telling me that extruder it's too cold to do it , I guess I need to let the extruder get hotter than 70 degrees!

The whole build take me forever but it's complete! I only notice two details:

There is a faint buzzing noise coming from the steepers on the Z axis, the noise it's only noticeable while idle and the motors move fine on both directions and there is not problem moving the whole extruder assembly, while I know that the steeper motors and servos tend to buzz because of the nature of their design, I think that maybe I should increase or decrease a little the voltage on the drivers and see it that helps to reduce the noise (I will prefer to avoid the "decrease voltage" to keep the torque in the steeper as close as possible to the max).

I have a bunch of screws and nuts left!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 12:45AM by Mrfus.

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Mr.Fus
<------------------------------------------------->
Green M3D (Running v.1.3.6.3Beta)
FolgerTech Prusa i3 (2020 Frame)
<------------------------------------------------>

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Mrfus
My printer it's working!

Today I got on the mail the two thermistors so I decide to install the screw in and keep the one from FolgerTech on the bag as backup.

After uploading the firmware and setting Repetier I was able to adjust the end stops for the X and Y axis and get the Z almost ready, plus I was able to test heating bed and heating element on the extruder... the only steeper that I wasn't able to test was the one on the extruder, everytime that I try to make it go Repetier keep telling me that extruder it's too cold to do it , I guess I need to let the extruder get hotter than 70 degrees!

The whole build take me forever but it's complete! I only notice two details:

There is a faint buzzing noise coming from the steepers on the Z axis, the noise it's only noticeable while idle and the motors move fine on both directions and there is not problem moving the whole extruder assembly, while I know that the steeper motors and servos tend to buzz because of the nature of their design, I think that maybe I should increase or decrease a little the voltage on the drivers and see it that helps to reduce the noise (I will prefer to avoid the "decrease voltage" to keep the torque in the steeper as close as possible to the max).

I have a bunch of screws and nuts left!

There's no reason to worry if you turn down the stepper and it slips a little bit, then you'll know you went too far. This is the time to experiment and start getting things dialed in

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Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

FIXED

Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 05:53PM by Slaghton.

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therippa
The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

Ok, so I gave up calibrating my 2020, and loaded the new marlin firmward from the link in your signature.

I re-calibrated the extruder. The original values were 90, my calculations showed it should be 102... so I set it in the configuration.h file and reloaded it...

Now, I can manually extrude as much PLA as I want, but when I go to print anything, the PLA does not feed. If I stop the print, I can again manually feed as much as I want...

Any ideas?

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animoose
We're now up to 68 pages on this thread, which makes finding things quite a challenge. I set up a Google Custom Search Engine which might make it easier. Try this link: [cse.google.com]

animoose,

Just tried the search, it works great...Thanks!!!

Sonny

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Spam

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therippa
The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

Ok, so I gave up calibrating my 2020, and loaded the new marlin firmward from the link in your signature.

I re-calibrated the extruder. The original values were 90, my calculations showed it should be 102... so I set it in the configuration.h file and reloaded it...

Now, I can manually extrude as much PLA as I want, but when I go to print anything, the PLA does not feed. If I stop the print, I can again manually feed as much as I want...

Any ideas?

Yeah, I ran into the same problem this weekend when I was testing my new extruder, I think there's a bug in Marlin with extruding before homing (although I think they'll call it a "feature"). Just unplug the power cable and usb cable to reset the printer and it should work.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 11:49AM by therippa.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Hi, my printer will not connect any more!

It has been working ok for about two weeks, but suddenly I get "Access to the port 'Com3' is denied". I have tried another cable, another USB port, and even another computer, but get the same messge.

The device manager reports that COM3 is connected to Ardunio Mega 2560.

AND, I tried to load a G-code file from an SD card, and the card reader does not even list the file. I suspect that the Ardunio has left this world.

Any ideas?

Karl

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KalleK
Hi, my printer will not connect any more!

It has been working ok for about two weeks, but suddenly I get "Access to the port 'Com3' is denied". I have tried another cable, another USB port, and even another computer, but get the same messge.

The device manager reports that COM3 is connected to Ardunio Mega 2560.

AND, I tried to load a G-code file from an SD card, and the card reader does not even list the file. I suspect that the Ardunio has left this world.

Any ideas?

Karl

Yes, sounds like you need to replace that.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Hello all,

After reading through this forum thread and leaching a bunch of information I thought it would be a good idea to let you know all how my build experience went and what useful information I learned along the way.

To start out, I have been interested in 3D Printers for the past year but I never thought they would be in my price range. My initial plan was to design my own 3D Printer using RepRap designs I had seen on Instructable’s and the RepRap website but after designing a printer in Autodesk and getting together a bill of materials the individual parts were over $350. After doing some more research on Reddit I stumbled upon the FolgerTech kit, I was instantly interested; a 3D Printer kit for under $300 and the chance to put it together myself.
After finding this forum and reading through a large portion of the posts I was set.

My order from FolgerTech
• Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 Full Aluminum 3D Printer Kit ($269.99)
• 2004 LCD Display Controller with Adapter ($11.98)
• 1 Roll of White ABS ($18.99)
Other Items I Ordered from Amazon
• Sheet of PEI 12”x12” ($16.65)
• TapeCase 1inx20yrd Adhesive Transfer Tape ($13.05)
• Lucal White Lithium Grease ($5.49)
• Sugnstek Tempered Glass Print Bed 213*200*3*mm ($11.99)
• Hatchbox 1.75 PLA Filament ($22.98)
• TowerPro 9G Mini Servo ($1.26) [won’t arrive for another month]

I ordered the kit on Thursday October 8th (10/08/15). The kit arrived at my house in Texas on Thursday October 10th (10/15/15), ordering to arrival took 1 week.
When the kit arrived the packaging was tore up and it seemed as though the box had been tossed around a lot but all of the components were present and nothing was damaged.

Tools I Used:
o A set of Metric Hex Wrenches
o A pair of Calibers (got them for a school project 3 years ago for $10 at a hardware store)
o An adjustable wrench for holding the lock washers
o A small screwdriver set
o A soldering iron
o Solder
o Heat shrink tubing
o Kapton Tape (supplied in the kit)
o Hammer for inserting bearings into 3D Printed Parts
o Multimeter
o Wire Cutters
o Zip Ties
o Wire Strippers
(If I think of anymore tools I will add them in)

Here are some extra steps I took along the way:

First of all I followed this build guide, it is a community build guide that has implemented some changes to it:
[github.com]

• Be careful when you open the packages, I cut open the extruder package and sliced the thermistor cables in the process, I had to solder the cables back together. Moral of the story is take your time opening the packages.
• After opening all of the packages I took my calibers and separated each bolt by size and placed them into a separate area, you can use an egg carton to hold all of the different sizes.
• On Step 2 before inserting the Chrome Rod into the SK8 Mount I cleaned the Rod with rubbing alcohol to remove tape residue. I also moved the SK8 on the opposite side and just inserted the end of the chromed rod into the SK8, that way only a small portion of the rod was in contact with the SK8 thus reducing the chance that the rod would be scratched by the SK8.
• Before sliding the bearings onto the chromed rods, I applied some lithium grease to the inside of them.
• Also if your Y axis is not sliding freely on the chromed rods remove some of the tension between the aluminum bed plate and loosen 2 of the SK8’s until the rods align and the Y axis moves freely.
• Before I secured the SK8’s to the frame I measured the distance from the outside frame piece and the middle of the SK8 and make sure the distance between them was 120mm before securing the SK8 (see photos).
• When soldering the heated bed, I applied a lot of solder to each contact, when soldering the black wire to contacts 2 and 3 I used a lot of solder and made sure the connection was strong.
• When attaching the heated bed to the aluminum bed plate, I used the extra M3x24m Bolts instead of the M3x16mm bolts, I also inserted a washer in-between the spring and the aluminum bed plate to increase the max distance I could achieve when leveling the print bed.
• For the Z axis assembly, I had to pry open the gap in the 3D printed part and then hammer the bearings into the slot, it actually took a lot of force. When inserting the nut into the z axis assembly I hammered it in using a bolt on top of the nut.
• For the X axis 3D printed part FolgerTech’s tolerances were way off, I spent an hour sanding down the 3d printed part until I could finally force the bearing into the slot.
• While I was installing the belt on the X axis I noticed the tolerances of the 3D printed part were so off that I couldn’t wrap the belt around the x carriage, so I inserted 2 bolts into the middle part and 1 bolt on each and superglued them into place and then wrapped the belt around these bolts and zip tied it tight (see photos).
• Before you attach the extruder I would make sure to tighten the brass nozzle on the extruder, I found out the hard way that mine was loose and this caused jams in the extruder. To tighten it take 2 pairs of pliers, one on the threaded tube above the aluminum block and one of the brass nozzle and tightened the nozzle, be careful as you do not want to damage the brass end.
• With both the Y axis and X axis my belt ended up loose so I took the springs provided in the kit and bent them until the two ends where at around a 130 degree angle and then put them on the belts (see photos).
• I followed the wiring guide in the community build manual and then made some changes after everything was wired.
• When mounting the end stops I mounted the x end stop to the right, the Y end stop to the back left and the z end stop on the right threaded rod (see photos).
• Before I cleaned up all of the wires I started the printer and made sure all of the wires where in the correct location and then I used about 30 zip ties to secure everything.

Other Stuff:
• I used The Rippas configuration marlin file instead of the one supplied by FolgerTech.
o [github.com]
• I then followed this calibration guide.
o [reprap.org]
• After that calibration guide I used Triffid Hunter’s calibration guide.
o [reprap.org]
• I followed this guide for installing the PEI Bed.
o [www.instructables.com]
• And I also watched a lot of Thomas Sanladerer’s Videos.
o [www.youtube.com]
• I followed this guide to tune the stepper driver voltages.
o [www.youtube.com]
• I have attached photos of the current slicer settings I am using, my prints are not perfect yet but they are getting better any input/advice is appreciated!

I hope this post helps anyone who is interested in purchasing the FolgerTech 2020 Prusa or anyone who is about to start building the printer!

Thanks everyone.

[imgur.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 06:20PM by Keary123.

WOWOWWO Thank you man! I'm about to start building mine when my missing parts come in.

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Yelloow-Snow
WOWOWWO Thank you man! I'm about to start building mine when my missing parts come in.

Goodluck!

It took me around 12 hours, a lot of coors light, and too much time not studying to get it assembled and wired!

Let me know if you have any questions.

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therippa

I used the same x-carriage animoose used - [moosteria.blogspot.com]

All right, I'm officially an idiot. I can't find the carriage .
Thought I found a close one but didn't fit animoose's parts that are reworked for leadscrews.
Got a link handy?

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srcga

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therippa

I used the same x-carriage animoose used - [moosteria.blogspot.com]

All right, I'm officially an idiot. I can't find the carriage .
Thought I found a close one but didn't fit animoose's parts that are reworked for leadscrews.
Got a link handy?

[www.thingiverse.com]

Make sure it lines up with the holes on your extruder. If I remember correctly I think I had to drill them out for the stock Folgertech

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Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

I have a couple of questions guys:

One, did the LCD display should make a beep or something? I know it works, I got temperature readings, the emergency stop works and some other details but not beep.

Second, any of you has upgraded its FT Prusa adding a second extruder?

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Mr.Fus
<------------------------------------------------->
Green M3D (Running v.1.3.6.3Beta)
FolgerTech Prusa i3 (2020 Frame)
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Mrfus
I have a couple of questions guys:

One, did the LCD display should make a beep or something? I know it works, I got temperature readings, the emergency stop works and some other details but not beep.

Second, any of you has upgraded its FT Prusa adding a second extruder?

Yes, it should beep, but this may be disabled in pins.h at around line 778. If it is disabled, you can change #define BEPPER -1 to #define BEPPER 37. Btw, what display are you using, and did you have to do anything special to get it to work?