Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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tjnamtiw

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Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

You need the fan for pla on something with a bridge or an overhang. I didn't think I needed one either until I printed something with a bridge.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

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tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

So I finally ran trough a whole 2.2lbs roll off black PLA. Im getting more comfortable with my printer. So I ordered a bunch of different colors of PLA on Amazon yesterday (should be here tomorrow). But I had the bug to keep printing. And I remembered I had a sample of green PLA from Folger tech. The heat setting said 219 on the package. I soon realized that was way to hot for my setup. The filament was getting too hot and would not extruded. Had to take apart the extruder a few times to get the filament out. To make a long story short after getting the heat down (I ran my black PLA at 180c and I got this green to look pretty good at 195C) I didn't have much left to play with. But I did print a couple test things to see how it printed. I printed off a toothed linear bearing from Thingiverse. Toothed linear bearing I printed this in the fastest setting at .3 Just because I want to see how it came out and I didn't have much filament left. When I get my other rolls I'll try it at .1mm. Has anyone printed these and tried them in there printer?

image upload no size limit

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Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

This is how I did mine.

Ok you wanted to extrude 100mm but came up short by 12.35
so subtract 12.35 from 100 = 87.65
now divide 100 / 87.65 =1.14090131
now times that by your extruder number 1.14090131 x 90 = 102.681117
I round mine off, so 102.68 would be your number.

Put that number in and recheck it by extruding another 100mm and see if your on the mark or close. if close refigure and do again.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2015 01:34PM by woodknack.

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woodknack
So I finally ran trough a whole 2.2lbs roll off black PLA. Im getting more comfortable with my printer. So I ordered a bunch of different colors of PLA on Amazon yesterday (should be here tomorrow). But I had the bug to keep printing. And I remembered I had a sample of green PLA from Folger tech. The heat setting said 219 on the package. I soon realized that was way to hot for my setup. The filament was getting too hot and would not extruded. Had to take apart the extruder a few times to get the filament out. To make a long story short after getting the heat down (I ran my black PLA at 180c and I got this green to look pretty good at 195C) I didn't have much left to play with. But I did print a couple test things to see how it printed. I printed off a toothed linear bearing from Thingiverse. Toothed linear bearing I printed this in the fastest setting at .3 Just because I want to see how it came out and I didn't have much filament left. When I get my other rolls I'll try it at .1mm. Has anyone printed these and tried them in there printer?

postimage.org

image upload no size limit

Folger's recommended temperature for PLA is way off.

I have not tried them in the printer, but I did print a few different designs of linear bearing and tried them on a spare piece of chromed rod. The problem was that they showed stiction, that is once they started to move they were OK, but there was a lot of static friction to overcome before they started moving. This seems like it would be a problem as there are lots of starts and stops ratehr than continuous movement when you are printing. I was moving them by hand, and this was not a very scientific test, but was enough to put me off taking apart the printer and fitting them. IIRC, I tried this with PLA, PLA/PHA and PETG.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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animoose

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woodknack
So I finally ran trough a whole 2.2lbs roll off black PLA. Im getting more comfortable with my printer. So I ordered a bunch of different colors of PLA on Amazon yesterday (should be here tomorrow). But I had the bug to keep printing. And I remembered I had a sample of green PLA from Folger tech. The heat setting said 219 on the package. I soon realized that was way to hot for my setup. The filament was getting too hot and would not extruded. Had to take apart the extruder a few times to get the filament out. To make a long story short after getting the heat down (I ran my black PLA at 180c and I got this green to look pretty good at 195C) I didn't have much left to play with. But I did print a couple test things to see how it printed. I printed off a toothed linear bearing from Thingiverse. Toothed linear bearing I printed this in the fastest setting at .3 Just because I want to see how it came out and I didn't have much filament left. When I get my other rolls I'll try it at .1mm. Has anyone printed these and tried them in there printer?

postimage.org

image upload no size limit

Folger's recommended temperature for PLA is way off.

I have not tried them in the printer, but I did print a few different designs of linear bearing and tried them on a spare piece of chromed rod. The problem was that they showed stiction, that is once they started to move they were OK, but there was a lot of static friction to overcome before they started moving. This seems like it would be a problem as there are lots of starts and stops ratehr than continuous movement when you are printing. I was moving them by hand, and this was not a very scientific test, but was enough to put me off taking apart the printer and fitting them. IIRC, I tried this with PLA, PLA/PHA and PETG.

Nice to know! I will have to test it out too. I was think about making a test axis to try? Winters coming I'll will have lots of time to mess around.. LOL
Im actually thinking about making my own 3d printer.

Here's the servo arm I use.

[www.thingiverse.com]

If you do anything servo related on any project at all, the original SCAD file that I remixed from has all of the dimensions and such for the arms and the servo itself so you don't have to start fresh.
Really helpful to learn how to use OpenSCAD.

Still using this servo holder, it works so I'll leave it for now I think. Eventually when the noisy x-carriage drives me nuts enough I will work on that area.. but for now.. very happy with prints.
[www.thingiverse.com]


Just ran out of my first spool of ABS. Got two PETG on deck and will figure them out later tonight.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2015 01:59PM by srcga.

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

You almost had it right. 100/87.65 * 90 = 102.68, as woodknack said. You can either enter it with your LCD screen or hook up your computer, start Arduino, change the value in configuration.h, compile it with the left button, and then save it. As woodknack also said, do the test again to make sure. You should really mark a longer length like 150 just in case it extrudes more than 100 mm. That's what he did in the video for that reason. Mine, FYI, came out to 99.

NOTE: if you use the LCD screen, make sure you take the step to save the setting otherwise it will go back to 90 when you turn it back on.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2015 03:26PM by tjnamtiw.

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msaeger

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tjnamtiw

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Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

You need the fan for pla on something with a bridge or an overhang. I didn't think I needed one either until I printed something with a bridge.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for that. This is as complicated as I've gotten so far. Some stringing in the letters that I had to pick out but I would guess that's more of an issue of temperature of the extruder.

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

You almost had it right. 100/87.65 * 90 = 102.68, as woodknack said. You can either enter it with your LCD screen or hook up your computer, start Arduino, change the value in configuration.h, compile it with the left button, and then save it. As woodknack also said, do the test again to make sure. You should really mark a longer length like 150 just in case it extrudes more than 100 mm. That's what he did in the video for that reason. Mine, FYI, came out to 99.

NOTE: if you use the LCD screen, make sure you take the step to save the setting otherwise it will go back to 90 when you turn it back on.

ok, so my config.h file reads "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}" so i need to change the "90" to "102.68", right?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2015 04:37PM by Mopar99.

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

You almost had it right. 100/87.65 * 90 = 102.68, as woodknack said. You can either enter it with your LCD screen or hook up your computer, start Arduino, change the value in configuration.h, compile it with the left button, and then save it. As woodknack also said, do the test again to make sure. You should really mark a longer length like 150 just in case it extrudes more than 100 mm. That's what he did in the video for that reason. Mine, FYI, came out to 99.

NOTE: if you use the LCD screen, make sure you take the step to save the setting otherwise it will go back to 90 when you turn it back on.

ok, so my config.h file reads "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}" so i need to change the "90" to "102.68", right?

Yes. Then upload the new firmware setting to your mega. Then check it again. ;-)

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tjnamtiw

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msaeger

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tjnamtiw

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Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

You need the fan for pla on something with a bridge or an overhang. I didn't think I needed one either until I printed something with a bridge.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for that. This is as complicated as I've gotten so far. Some stringing in the letters that I had to pick out but I would guess that's more of an issue of temperature of the

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2015 04:41PM by woodknack.

Quote
tjnamtiw

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msaeger

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tjnamtiw

Quote
Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

You need the fan for pla on something with a bridge or an overhang. I didn't think I needed one either until I printed something with a bridge.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for that. This is as complicated as I've gotten so far. Some stringing in the letters that I had to pick out but I would guess that's more of an issue of temperature of the extruder.

[attachment 64038 WP_20151013_001.jpg]

Nice what resolution did you print it at?

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woodknack

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

You almost had it right. 100/87.65 * 90 = 102.68, as woodknack said. You can either enter it with your LCD screen or hook up your computer, start Arduino, change the value in configuration.h, compile it with the left button, and then save it. As woodknack also said, do the test again to make sure. You should really mark a longer length like 150 just in case it extrudes more than 100 mm. That's what he did in the video for that reason. Mine, FYI, came out to 99.

NOTE: if you use the LCD screen, make sure you take the step to save the setting otherwise it will go back to 90 when you turn it back on.

ok, so my config.h file reads "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}" so i need to change the "90" to "102.68", right?

Yes. Then upload the new firmware setting to your mega. Then check it again. ;-)

sweet, i'll try it tonight when i get home :-) thx

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Mopar99

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woodknack

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

You almost had it right. 100/87.65 * 90 = 102.68, as woodknack said. You can either enter it with your LCD screen or hook up your computer, start Arduino, change the value in configuration.h, compile it with the left button, and then save it. As woodknack also said, do the test again to make sure. You should really mark a longer length like 150 just in case it extrudes more than 100 mm. That's what he did in the video for that reason. Mine, FYI, came out to 99.

NOTE: if you use the LCD screen, make sure you take the step to save the setting otherwise it will go back to 90 when you turn it back on.

ok, so my config.h file reads "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}" so i need to change the "90" to "102.68", right?

Yes. Then upload the new firmware setting to your mega. Then check it again. ;-)

sweet, i'll try it tonight when i get home :-) thx

After you get that all set then do the same to your x,y and z axis. I got mine close with a caliper then i did a calibration cube and had to adjust it more.

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woodknack

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tjnamtiw

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msaeger

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tjnamtiw

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Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

You need the fan for pla on something with a bridge or an overhang. I didn't think I needed one either until I printed something with a bridge.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for that. This is as complicated as I've gotten so far. Some stringing in the letters that I had to pick out but I would guess that's more of an issue of temperature of the extruder.

[attachment 64038 WP_20151013_001.jpg]

Nice what resolution did you print it at?

0.3 mm on the resolution

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tjnamtiw

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woodknack

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tjnamtiw

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msaeger

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tjnamtiw

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Mrfus
What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament?

I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!!

I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 C and I would want each layer to bond to the next while they are still hot. Cooling it would be counterproductive IMHO. Maybe it's different with ABS, but I have avoided that hassle so far. I get a good bond with each layer, I get very minimal stringing, and there's no evidence of over extruding or sagging of the layers.

Maybe someone can enlighten me. Perhaps it's for very intricate forms.

You need the fan for pla on something with a bridge or an overhang. I didn't think I needed one either until I printed something with a bridge.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for that. This is as complicated as I've gotten so far. Some stringing in the letters that I had to pick out but I would guess that's more of an issue of temperature of the extruder.

[attachment 64038 WP_20151013_001.jpg]

Nice what resolution did you print it at?

0.3 mm on the resolution

You can try adjusting your retraction speed on your extruder(should help your stringing). I upped mine and noticed a big difference. I'm not sure how you do it in your software. If you were using s3d I could tell ya.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/13/2015 06:04PM by woodknack.

How do I adjust how my overhangs look? I have a print to test them but I don't know what I should change to make them better.

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built350camaro
How do I adjust how my overhangs look? I have a print to test them but I don't know what I should change to make them better.

Post a picture of what's happening. If it's pla a fan or increasing minimum layer time.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

I cant find that setting in the cura that comes with rep-host. I have a fan blowing on the print.

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Mopar99

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woodknack

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

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tjnamtiw

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Mopar99

Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm

Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90.

I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark was close enough to line it up). enter the commands to do the feed, and there was 12.35 mm of filemant left of the 100 mm. So if i understand this right, the Estop should be 100/12.35*90=728.74? or 100/87.35*90=103.03?

You almost had it right. 100/87.65 * 90 = 102.68, as woodknack said. You can either enter it with your LCD screen or hook up your computer, start Arduino, change the value in configuration.h, compile it with the left button, and then save it. As woodknack also said, do the test again to make sure. You should really mark a longer length like 150 just in case it extrudes more than 100 mm. That's what he did in the video for that reason. Mine, FYI, came out to 99.

NOTE: if you use the LCD screen, make sure you take the step to save the setting otherwise it will go back to 90 when you turn it back on.

ok, so my config.h file reads "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}" so i need to change the "90" to "102.68", right?

Yes. Then upload the new firmware setting to your mega. Then check it again. ;-)

sweet, i'll try it tonight when i get home :-) thx

Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides.

I have read some about using fans to cool the top layer of the print and allow it to harden and create bridges for parts that don't have any support underneath and avoid sagging of the surfaces... I guess room temperature will play a role on how much heat is dissipated and how fast the PLA will harden enough to provide support to the next layer... my little M3D printer has a super small fan at the bottom that sucks air and allow some flow of fresh air around the part printed, I have never notice any sagging on parts, but I know that the speed of the fan is adjusted constantly when whatever i'm printing has overhangs or not, and depending of how hot is the room.

---

Mr.Fus
<------------------------------------------------->
Green M3D (Running v.1.3.6.3Beta)
FolgerTech Prusa i3 (2020 Frame)
<------------------------------------------------>

For those waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading to lead screws, Banggood has them on sale right now for just $8.56 - [www.banggood.com]

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

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Mopar99

Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides.

That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should look like this >


Hopefully, someone with more experience than I can pinpoint what's going on. To me, it looks like you've maladjusted something or many things in your slicer program. Or your layer thicknesses are 3.0 instead of 0.3? Or you have never adjusted your nozzle to bed clearance to 0.1mm?

When you were testing your extruder calibration, did you see large changes in how much it fed each time you tested the 100 mm? Maybe it's not feeding correctly or your voltage to the stepper motor is wrong. Clearly something is majorly wrong.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2015 09:36AM by tjnamtiw.

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therippa
For those waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading to lead screws, Banggood has them on sale right now for just $8.56 - [www.banggood.com]

I'm on the fence with this one. Clearly you are one of the more knowledgeable gurus here so I respect your opinion. The Z axis is the least used axis as far as cycles go. Yes, movement must be accurate to have accurate layer thicknesses. However, the lowly threaded rod, once calibrated, should yield accurate movement. The X carriage and extruder assembly all hang on the Z threaded rods, so there's no backlash or looseness there since the nuts are always being pushed down against the threads. What are the real advantages of using the lead screws other than it looks more professional?

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therippa
For those waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading to lead screws, Banggood has them on sale right now for just $8.56 - [www.banggood.com]

Thank you! That seems more reasonable. I ordered them. Good Find!!

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tjnamtiw

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therippa
For those waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading to lead screws, Banggood has them on sale right now for just $8.56 - [www.banggood.com]

I'm on the fence with this one. Clearly you are one of the more knowledgeable gurus here so I respect your opinion. The Z axis is the least used axis as far as cycles go. Yes, movement must be accurate to have accurate layer thicknesses. However, the lowly threaded rod, once calibrated, should yield accurate movement. The X carriage and extruder assembly all hang on the Z threaded rods, so there's no backlash or looseness there since the nuts are always being pushed down against the threads. What are the real advantages of using the lead screws other than it looks more professional?

You are only thinking about one direction. You get backlash when you axis (Z for this instance) changes direction. In the beginning the nut and threaded rods will probably work fine as they are still tight. But over time the rod and nut will start to ware and this is when the backlash issue will happen. Thats why people made a double nut with a spring for the z axis like this one on thingiverse, z-anti backlash. Plus this is a kit printer. By improving it we get a better machine and more knowledge. Plus its just plain fun to tinker. Speaking of tinkering, how is TINKERCAD working for you?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2015 12:02PM by woodknack.

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therippa
For anyone who is using a Bowden feed and the z-motor risers, I made a mount for the Sainsmart Full controller - [www.thingiverse.com]

RV2huDZ.jpg

(adding some random text here since the forum software thinks I'm a bot)

I have just the regular LCD screen, but I like your mount better then what I have. So I took your mount and tweaked it and added some brackets for a small LCD. I just threw it together real fast. I should have spent more time on it. But it will work. Im going to download and print off the cover for the lcd later. Here is the bracket made. I just got my new PLA colors in and im not sure I have this red adjusted the way I want it, I'll tweak with that when I have more time.

free image host[/url
upload image online

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2015 02:19PM by woodknack.

Man I am really wanting to print this but no matter how I try I cant figure it out. I have split it into parts with cura but I cant figure out the best way to print it.

This

Quote
built350camaro
Man I am really wanting to print this but no matter how I try I cant figure it out. I have split it into parts with cura but I cant figure out the best way to print it.

This

I completely confident in my printers ability and I think I would even have a problem printing this

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