Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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tjnamtiw

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Mach
Hey tjnamtiw, have you tried the full graphics controller? If you did, could you get it to work properly?

No, I haven't tried it ............yet. All of these 'goodies' are very tempting but I ask myself "Self, do you really need that right now when you're having enough fun making STUFF and designing new STUFF? AND it's all working, so don't screw with it!"

I haven't really even looked at the advantages of the new display vs the one I have, to be honest. To be equally honest, at this point, I can see why everyone is making such a big deal out of this self-leveling BS when I've run about 100 hours and my bed still has a .1 mm gap in all four corners. (checked it yesterday). That goes for the threaded rod vs lead screws for the Z axis. I know the advantages of lead screws but for the Z axis that gets used so very little, it makes little sense. There's no backlash because you have the entire X axis assembly hanging on it taking up the backlash. I can see real advantages for the X and Y axes, but not the Z. If any emphasis should be brought to bear, it should be on eliminating these horrible 8 mm linear bearings and the alignment issues of the twin rods, which causes most of the problems IMHO. Most people don't have a clue that they are the weak link in the whole reprap design.

Wow, you wanted a simple yes or no, didn't you? hahaha

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srcga
On the auto leveling... I for one, am lazy. And clumsy. And I like to mess with stuff. One less thing I don't have to do, the better. I'm good with leveling as well. I leveled by hand then probed for giggles.. was within 0.05mm on all corners.

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msaeger
How far should the nozzle actually be from the bed?

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Mach

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msaeger
How far should the nozzle actually be from the bed?

The standard is for you to be able to slide a piece of printing paper under the nozzle, with a slight amount of grab onto the paper from the nozzle. This will get you to about 100 microns(0.1mm) from the bed.

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tjnamtiw

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srcga
On the auto leveling... I for one, am lazy. And clumsy. And I like to mess with stuff. One less thing I don't have to do, the better. I'm good with leveling as well. I leveled by hand then probed for giggles.. was within 0.05mm on all corners.

1/2 a tenth is pretty darn good for those sensors! Wow.

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tjnamtiw

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Mach

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msaeger
How far should the nozzle actually be from the bed?

The standard is for you to be able to slide a piece of printing paper under the nozzle, with a slight amount of grab onto the paper from the nozzle. This will get you to about 100 microns(0.1mm) from the bed.

If you have feeler gauges, that's about 0.004". That gives you a good squeeze out as you move slowly on the first pass.

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RRuser
"adjust that offset (in turn, dial in the first layer via firmware"

What firmware setting do you use for this?

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animoose
Just finished a minor rebuild of the Y subsystem: replaced the bearings and lubricated them, which I didn't do the first time round, and replaced the belt block with one that has an adjustable tensioner:

I also added washers to the adjustment screws for the heated bed, so now they go (from top to bottom): bolt, washer, heater, washer, spring, washer, aluminium base, washer, adjustment nut, like this:

This makes tweaking them a lot easier. In honour of Tom Salanderer's term "kapton burrito", I'm thinking of calling it the "hot bed spring roll",

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animoose
Just finished a minor rebuild of the Y subsystem: replaced the bearings and lubricated them, which I didn't do the first time round, and replaced the belt block with one that has an adjustable tensioner:

I also added washers to the adjustment screws for the heated bed, so now they go (from top to bottom): bolt, washer, heater, washer, spring, washer, aluminium base, washer, adjustment nut, like this:

This makes tweaking them a lot easier. In honour of Tom Salanderer's term "kapton burrito", I'm thinking of calling it the "hot bed spring roll",

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msaeger
Anyone found or made a adjustable Z end stop switch holder that fits on this machine? I keep finding ones that are for the motors on the bottom.

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animoose
I think this is where the tensioner came from: [www.thingiverse.com]. I printed it ages ago, so I am not certain. One thing to note is that you have to pick the length of the on the movable side carefully or else it gets in the way. I used a M3x12 with three washers to get it exactly right. Probably M3x10 would work, I just didn't have any to hand.

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animoose

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msaeger
Anyone found or made a adjustable Z end stop switch holder that fits on this machine? I keep finding ones that are for the motors on the bottom.

For my X/Z rebuild I used this [www.thingiverse.com] with this [www.thingiverse.com]. Not sure it's exactly what you wanted.

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msaeger

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animoose

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msaeger
Anyone found or made a adjustable Z end stop switch holder that fits on this machine? I keep finding ones that are for the motors on the bottom.

For my X/Z rebuild I used this [www.thingiverse.com] with this [www.thingiverse.com]. Not sure it's exactly what you wanted.

I like that one but at the moment I would rate find one that doesn't require replacing the X motor mount. I am bookmarking it for when I feel like redoing the X axis.

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therippa

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animoose
I think this is where the tensioner came from: [www.thingiverse.com]. I printed it ages ago, so I am not certain. One thing to note is that you have to pick the length of the on the movable side carefully or else it gets in the way. I used a M3x12 with three washers to get it exactly right. Probably M3x10 would work, I just didn't have any to hand.

Whoever designed that and submitted the pictures did not have their extrusion flow set properly

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RRuser
"Can someone look at this and tell me why the lines by the holes look different? "

My first guess is too much retraction when it gets to the hole. After the hole, not enough plastic comes back out, and you get a shinkage look.

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jaclack
Getting close to the point of printing my first part. I have finally made it through the configuration guide and all the manual controls seem to be working properly. I can manually extrude filament with the Repetier-Host controls. I started my first print (a simple 10mm cube) and there was no extrusion during the print. The extruder ran the print route but extruded no filament. Any ideas on what the cause of this could be? I have tried the simple things like powering down the printer and restarting Repetier-Host. I even swapped out the extruder head.