auto level bed plate
Posted by chasemn34
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auto level bed plate March 22, 2017 10:23PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 44 |
so I'm learning more about my printer and more about marlin and one of my most aggravating problems is leveling my printer and getting a print started so I'm curious as to how the auto bed plate system works I know you use a probe but obviously its not going to turn ur springs and level ur bed plate for you
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Re: auto level bed plate March 22, 2017 11:20PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 267 |
Yeah, I dont know how it got the name auto bed levelling, makes it really misleading.
All it is doing is making a map of the bed in points, from there it can determine how to adjust the z axis during printing to account for high or low spots.
What I find is that you want a bed that is already somewhat flat and level, then use the auto level to account for small variations that I just cant fix myself
All it is doing is making a map of the bed in points, from there it can determine how to adjust the z axis during printing to account for high or low spots.
What I find is that you want a bed that is already somewhat flat and level, then use the auto level to account for small variations that I just cant fix myself
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Re: auto level bed plate March 23, 2017 12:48PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 477 |
I have 2 scratch built i3's, one with 6mm plywood frame and bed (with a braced frame), the other with 6mm aluminum frame and bed.
Both use an aluminum heat bed. I rarely need to check the bed level (bed to nozzle distance) - maybe every 2 dozen prints or if I physically move the printer.
The auto bed level is really compensating for 2 things, the first being a difficult way of adjusting the z-axis height, the second being components being out of alignment or poor quality.
If your bed has a bow of .5 mm and you are trying to print with a height of .2mm it isn't going to work well, same with the the 8mm smooth rods used in the x and y axis - if they are bowed you won't get good prints.
For an easy z-axis adjustment I use this design on thingiverse:
[www.thingiverse.com]
But I make the home position of my bed solid with no spring and put the adjustment on the bolt via a long nylon nut. See the attached pictures.
This way the z-axis is simple to adjust using the paper under the nozzle method at the home position by turning the nylon nut by hand, then I manually move the nozzle to the other 3 corners and use a hex wrench to adjust the springs.
I did a detailed Instructable - [www.instructables.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2017 12:49PM by SteveRoy.
My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]
Both use an aluminum heat bed. I rarely need to check the bed level (bed to nozzle distance) - maybe every 2 dozen prints or if I physically move the printer.
The auto bed level is really compensating for 2 things, the first being a difficult way of adjusting the z-axis height, the second being components being out of alignment or poor quality.
If your bed has a bow of .5 mm and you are trying to print with a height of .2mm it isn't going to work well, same with the the 8mm smooth rods used in the x and y axis - if they are bowed you won't get good prints.
For an easy z-axis adjustment I use this design on thingiverse:
[www.thingiverse.com]
But I make the home position of my bed solid with no spring and put the adjustment on the bolt via a long nylon nut. See the attached pictures.
This way the z-axis is simple to adjust using the paper under the nozzle method at the home position by turning the nylon nut by hand, then I manually move the nozzle to the other 3 corners and use a hex wrench to adjust the springs.
I did a detailed Instructable - [www.instructables.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2017 12:49PM by SteveRoy.
My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]
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