Tevo Tarantula USB connection issues

Hello everyone. I'm really hoping someone can help me with this issue, when I connect my laptop to my new Tarantula printer it will connect and disconnect and just keep doing it in a loop. The LCD screen will go blank and come back on. Both loop together. When I try to connect with the software it tells me the com port is in use by another program. This happens with every com port I select or change the use to. I am out of ideas with this one. I would just like to use my first 3D printer.

You might have problems with a USB-ground loop. Make sure, the powersupply for the laptop and the printer are in the same wall socket.
Another reason could be the onboard 5V regulator overheating. Usually it should be disabled when you use USB power, but the controller might be faulty.
It must be replaced then.

I got it connected. I had a thumb drive registered there. Now when trying to setup the printer as instructed on page 29 of the manual, it moves all the way left and starts grinding and then all the way down and starts grinding which starts bending the Y axis bracket up. The only way to stop it is to unplug the printer. It says to go to manual control and enter M581 then send then enter M581 Z0 send followed by G28 send and that's when it moves. It seems as is the stop switches are not working but I can't seem to figure it out.

use M119 to see you endstop status

make sure no endstops are being touched and send a M119, its should respond saying endstops are open

manually hold down the x endstop and send another M119 while holding the endstop down

Does the printer now report X endstop triggered?

NB if printer resets or stop talking when endstops is pressed immediately power off everything.

Endstops work by connecting two pins together, normally signal and gnd, but if you manage to put them in backwards on the controller you connect +5v to gnd and the controller stops talking

If I've found the same model as yous there should be 6 endstop plugs, you need to use the ones labelled -x, -y and -z

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2017 05:22AM by Dust.

Yes the all say open and when one is tripped they say the same. I actually have X+/X-, Y-, Z+, and Z- is my auto bed leveler which does not work either.

I also have a dual black wire with a two prong plug on one end and what looks like a glass LED on the other. I can't find any info on it anywhere nor where to plug it in. There also seems to be three sets of jumper connections in the middle of the board but have no jumpers on them.

First sounds like a thermistor, should be on the hot end or the heated bed to measure the temperature



If its a mks gen 1.4 board, then the "jumper block" near centre is a ISP header, not jumpers at all. (used to install bootloaders on cpu)

Re endstops...

there are 3 options for it not working.
1) firmware is wrong.. I presume your using something provided and not configured yourself? Got a URL for it?
2) endstops are not working, check with a multimeter, what type do you have? picture?
3) your controller board is broken.. The endstop IO pins are just not working. Picture of controller so we can check your wiring?

Ok, I just got this printer so it is what ever software is in it. I was not able to find any updates. There is a temp probe for the hot bed and extruder or print head. Those read fine. I plugged this I to the third (Black) port on the left and I don't get anything. Also I cannot get the feeder motor to respond at all. Unless I plug it in to something like the z or x axis spots.

Sorry, here's my photo.

Quote

Also I cannot get the feeder motor to respond at all. Unless I plug it in to something like the z or x axis spots.

You have to heat up the extruder above the safety level ( ~170°C) otherwise the extruder wont move.
If you dont have filament inserted or deinstalled the nozzle/hotend and just want to test the extruder, you can use M302 to allow cold extrusion.

Ok thanks, one last thing. Does anyone know how to change it from metric settings to imperial. Lock °C to °F and so on?

G20 will set it to inches, G21 sets metric. But IMHO, the temps will be unaffected then. Also the slicers work with metric dimensions( only?). So your results will be scaled 2.54 times to say the least.

All documentation and information for 3d printers is metric, your just going to have to crawl into the 21st century

Lol ok, I'm already there just don't use it enough. Although the temp would be nice in imperial. Now if I can just get it to calibrate so I can print stuff I'd be happy. I really like the printer and seen all good things about it, thus is why I bought it.