extruder problem

i have an extruder (0.3mm E3D-V6 Metal 3D Printer Extrusion Head Extruder Nozzle ) to print the PLA.At the beginnig it works but after few seconds it stucks.The temperature is correct.The printer when it stucks, not extrude and not reverse.i tried to push it with my hands but it does not move.

Hope you have the heatsink fan going 100% on that hot end.
Also ive found that I need to print PLA "hotter" on my V5 hotend

how can i check if my heatsink works at 100%.I increase the temperature and i saw the same problem.

Do you have a fan on the heatsink part of the hotend? (The heatsink is the part with the circular ribs above the heat block)

yes i have heatsink and fan

Is the fan running when you heat up the hotend? All metal hotends are know for the temp to creep past the heater block and into the heat sink causing the filament to swell and plug

when i activate the extruder the fan make less turns.when the extruder arrives the correct temp then the fan make more turns.

Ok so you have a fan going, just a quick side not, how do you have that fan wired into your control board? sounds like it is on the same rail as the extruder, causing the dip in current during heating. Conect the fan directly to the 12 volt sauce will keep the fan running at a constant RPM.

Where did you get the extruder from? Is it a real E3D hotend, or one of the meany clones that are on the market.

The clones are know to cause blockage and jamming issues

Regardless of if its a clone or not there are a few things you can try,

Increasing the current of the extruder, It might not have enough force currently to keep the plastic moving, thats why its clogging,
Reduce the retraction settings, if you are pulling hot plastic into the heat break you may be causing a clog, try with no retraction or 1mm or so
tention on the extruder idler, play around with the tension to make sure the filament is feeding through the extruder and not slipping
slow the printer down, at slower speeds you might get a better understanding of where the problem is happening
make sure the throat of the extruder is free of plastic flakes made by the drive gear

Some $$$ options,

Switch to a .4 or .5 nozzle
get a geared extruder to apply more force
Try a new hotend

If you have a look around there are a few posts of people having problems with PLA and all metal hotends, have a google and try some of the other suggestions

I agree with all that @scottybfg says. Plus

Quote
gianniskix
At the beginnig it works but after few seconds it stucks.The temperature is correct.The printer when it stucks, not extrude and not reverse.i tried to push it with my hands but it does not move.

How do you know the temperature is correct? What temperature are you trying to print at?

Typically, what you describe happens when the hot-end temperature is too high (I print PLA at 190-195 degrees). Heat creeps up the heat break tube, softens the PLA in it, which swells and sticks.

Does your hot-end have a PTFE liner inside? I had a lot of trouble with E3D clones until I got one with a liner.

I have almost this exact problem too...
I don't want to hijack this thread so tell me to start a new one but.
I have the Sunhokey i3 with a PCB heat bed, E3d V6 hot end and auto bed leveling, all assembled corecly and has been working like a dream.
I have had 12 hour prints come out really nice but recently, I had a guy ask me to print a prototype part that should have taken about 8 hours but about 6 in and it failed...
The hot end was just waving about with nothing coming out....
And it's been getting worse....
Now, it fails on the first layer....

I do think it's jamming right at the start.
If I heat the HE up, I can manually push the filament through but on a print, it seems to jam. the extruder bangs like it's stalling or something???

I'm going to try resetting everything... starting over..... :-/

When something that has been working reliably starts failing, something has changed.

Check the tension on all the belts. Check that all screws are tight, that the thermistor or heater cartridge hasn't worked loose, etc, etc.

Or is it maybe that the room temperature has changed, so that what *was* just cool enough is now not quite cool enough? Maybe the extruder driver chip is overheating?

Thanks frankvdh.
I will have a thorough look at it tomorrow and report back....

I did think it might be the extruder driver? I might try swapping it from one of the axis? maybe Z as this has a low duty???
The "banging" I said about.... This has been going on for quite some time but I ignored it as I was still getting good prints...
What can this be?
How do I know if I need to adjust amps???

There are a number of causes of extruder skipping.

If the motor is too hot to hold your finger on, you should reduce amps. Another test is to pause the print (keeping the hot-end up to temperature) when the skipping starts. Wait for a few minutes, then resume printing. If the skipping restarts immediately, the problem is in the extruder driver or motor. If not, the problem is in the hot-end. Or, when the skipping starts, cool the driver heatsink or motor or hot-end heatsink (Spraying with methylated spirits (ethyl alcohol) worked for me, but a good blower fan or whatever)... if that makes the skipping stops or reduces, then you've found the culprit.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2017 03:36PM by frankvdh.

Quote
frankvdh
There are a number of causes of extruder skipping.

If the motor is too hot to hold your finger on, you should reduce amps. Another test is to pause the print (keeping the hot-end up to temperature) when the skipping starts. Wait for a few minutes, then resume printing. If the skipping restarts immediately, the problem is in the extruder driver or motor. If not, the problem is in the hot-end. Or, when the skipping starts, cool the driver heatsink or motor or hot-end heatsink (Spraying with methylated spirits (ethyl alcohol) worked for me, but a good blower fan or whatever)... if that makes the skipping stops or reduces, then you've found the culprit.

Right, I think I have it???

I completely re-calibrated the self leveling settings and tried again... At first, it seemed to be working but about two hours in, blocked hot end... I tried different size nozzels and heat brakes too.
All of my motors and drivers are running cool and I even swapped a z axis driver to the etrider and no change.

Then I tried another filament that I know works and bingo, at least for the part I was struggling with...

I think I'll try another item that failed???


I aslo pushed the print speed up to 90mm/s! Fastest I've taken it!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/12/2017 11:24AM by KillerDave.

Two or six hours to failure suggests some kind of heat-creep issue. Different filaments have different heat conduction (e.g. black conducts heat better), so you may need to adjust your hot-end temperature if it's marginal.

Some filaments vary a long way from the nominal 1.75mm diameter. (I have one filament that's so fat it won't go through the 2mm hole in my hot-end). Try measuring the diameters of the working and failing filaments, or look for over-extrusion symptoms, and adjust the flow rate accordingly. Some filaments' diameters vary significantly on the same reel, which could also explain the 2 hour delay. And I had one filament which had been rejoined mid-reel, with about a 20deg bend which fortunately I spotted before it jammed the extruder.

Make sure you don't have a gap where the nozzle meets the throat.
When assembling screw the nozzle in first, all the way tight, then back it out 2 full turns. Then screw the heat break into the heat block until it bumps into the nozzle, then snug down the nozzle. After assembly, and heating it up to temp the first time, snug up the nozzle again, to compensate for thermal expansion. If you do this, you will have zero gap between the heat break and the nozzle, and you should stop jamming if this is indeed your problem.

Thanks guys, I completely rebuilt the hot end (not the way described by rich1051414) and although I can print on other reels, these two still jam... even earlier now though????
I have made some prints in the old black and it came out perfect.

I will put the Hot end together the way rich has written and let you know....

Thanks again.

If it get stuck like in seconds it can be due to your Z zero height for first layer is too near print bed.
Thus i get too hard for extruder to pump out plastic.
The feeder will cut a dent on filament and after that no motion.
Even when you try to help feed by hand it's not at all possible to get the plastics out

Ha det gött
Bosse

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Prusa i3 Reworked, Delivered March 28 2014, RAMPS 1.4
Göteborg, Sweden

Do you need a new barrel? Is you barrel lined?

Dan

Ignore please ..... don't know how to delete my comment ...
Is it possible ?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2017 11:02AM by sidhabo.

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Prusa i3 Reworked, Delivered March 28 2014, RAMPS 1.4
Göteborg, Sweden

UPDATE....

Sorry I didn't get back sooner...

It was the filament.... I got a real from 3D Filaprint...
3D Flaprint

And that works perfectly!

Thanks for all the advice....

I'm not about to talk down about any company as what doesn't work for my machine, doesn't mean it wont for somebody else...