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1st time printing ABS - heated bed not reaching 110ºC gets to 105-107ºC -

Re: 1st time printing ABS - heated bed not reaching 110ºC gets to 105-107ºC -
January 08, 2016 08:57AM
The only down-side of that R/C model cable is that you need a big iron to solder it! It is made up of 50 or 60 strands, so you need something with a high thermal capacity to make a good, quick joint.
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David J
I think it's the photo - I've used cable like that in the past, a pair of wires in red and black. When you pull them apart it leaves a bit of red on the black sleeving. My cable is the stuff used in solar panel insulation, good for 25A or so and I don't think that this is much thinner.

Nowadays I use the silicone-sleeved stuff that's made for electric R/C aircraft - not expensive, flexible, heat-resistant and good for high Amperage.

What gauge silicone wire do you use for your heatbed?

Quote
David J
The only down-side of that R/C model cable is that you need a big iron to solder it! It is made up of 50 or 60 strands, so you need something with a high thermal capacity to make a good, quick joint.

Not really, I'm able to solder this stuff just fine with a Hakko FX-888D and a 2.4mm chisel tip:
[www.hobbyking.com]
Re: 1st time printing ABS - heated bed not reaching 110ºC gets to 105-107ºC -
January 08, 2016 12:36PM
I use 16AWG, which is advertised as good for 22A - the bed only takes 11A or so, which gives a decent safety margin.

I also have a Hakko FX-888D, which is a 65W iron! That's a powerful iron whichever way you look at it - even though it's electronically controlled and suitable for fine surface-mount work, it can also pump out the heat when necessary.
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