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Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts

Posted by Khaled 
Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 18, 2015 09:21PM
I bought Folger prusa i3 Rev B and have a problem with it.

My Heat bed will not heat up and the heat bed thermister reads Zero C which is impossible (should at least be room temp).
The resistence of the Heatbed is 1.8 Ohms and that of the thermister is 95K (both within working range).
Also, The voltage at the Ramps Blue socket where the wires to the Heat bed are connected read 0 volts.

It seemed as thought that either the Ramps board is damaged or that the Repetier host software is either faulty or not configured properly.
I installed a new Ramps board but have the exact same symptoms.
Any advice would be a great help
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 19, 2015 03:12AM
Sounds like a wiring problem to me. Did you connect the 12V to the high current connector? It is separate from the boards 12V rail.

As for the thermistor, try placing a 100k resostor on the connector, it should give you a reading. If not check the firmware configuration file. Make sure it isn't setup with thermo couple settings.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 19, 2015 04:33AM
The wiring is correct. I connected the 12V the way the manual states and shows (the Green Connector), but i did suspect a configuration file problem to be honest and do not know how to go about fixing it, theres nothing in the manual or online that helps with this issue,
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 19, 2015 06:36AM
Here are some steps to get a new firmware on your printer.

Please note: if you replace the configuration, you'll need to reconfigure all the settings like steps per mm, feedrates, acceleration etc. If you own an LCD, you can note down all the settings in the control/motion menu. If the printer connects, you can use pronterface or repetier host to send gcode: M503. It will list most of the settings you'll need.

Connect the arduino without ramps, check in device manager (or Mac OS x equivalent) if the arduino is recognized. If not, find the chip closest to the USB connector and lookup the chip code printed on it in Google. You'll most likely able to find suitable drivers for it. The exception is fake FTDI drivers. You'll need to find and download drivers with version 12.0.0.0 or lower. Newer drivers will not work.

Once the arduino is recognized, it will be assigned a COM port. You can find the new port in the device manager in windows XP and newer under Ports (COM & LPT).

Download the arduino studio: www.arduino.cc. Sometimes a certain firmware may not compile well with the latest version of the studio, so try older versions if there are compiler errors with a fresh copy of Marlin or Repetier firmware.

Next download the firmware from Marlin or Repetier, or any other firmware that's compatible with your board. It could be that the printer supplier has made a custom version of the firmware. You can use that to get you started quickly as usually the configuration file is already setup for your printer. Ask your supplier for firmware source code, usually they have one for download on github.

Unpack the firmware in a folder. I usually use the folder structure like this: "D:\data\projects\3DPrinter\Firmware

Load arduino studio and load the .ino file in the firmware folder.

In the tools menu, select the proper com port you've found in step 2

Select the correct board, usually this is the Arduino Mega 2560. In the newer versions you need to select Arduino Mega, then in another submenu you choose 2560.

With a fresh copy of Marlin, it should compile without errors and upload to your printer. You'll need to edit the 'configuration.h' file to match the configuration of your printer. Select the board type ie. 34 for older versions of marlin, or 13 for newer version. In the newer version of marlin you need to setup what combination of extruder(s), heated bed and fans you have. Read the instructions in the configuration.h file.

Once it's configured properly you hit the upload button and in half a minute the firmware is on the new device. It will start running immediately when it's done. You can connect using Pronterface or Repetier host to check if everything is working.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 19, 2015 09:20AM
Thanks for the reply,
By Repetier-Host firmware I assume you mean Host-Repetier Software.

I was using arduino firmware 1.5.2, I tried arduino firmware 1.4 got the same problem and now im using the latest 1.6.6 and still getting the same problem.
I noticed on google that theres a variable called HAVE_HEATED_BED which i can't seem to locate in my configuration.h file. Could this be the reason ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2015 10:03AM by Khaled.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 19, 2015 12:22PM
By repetier-host I mean exactly that, it's the host software that controls the printer.
[www.repetier.com]

I don't think you need to set HAVE_HEATED_BED directly, I think it's set when you choose a board configuration that uses a heated bed. Make sure you've chosen the correct board.

If you use marlin 1.02-1, you must choose the board from board.h and set it using the MOTHERBOARD define. The suffix EFB means Extruder, Fan and Bed. You must choose what config you use as explaned in the boards.h file.

Make sure you edit the configuration.h included with the firmware download, please don't use one from a different version. Missing defines may make it impossible to compile and upload.

If that still doesn't work please attach the configuration.h file.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 19, 2015 06:53PM
Hi,
I don't have a board.h file. I'm using a folger repreap prusa i3 Rev b and all the configuration files and firmware are supplied with the printer but theres no board.h, however the motherboard variable is defined in confuration.h.
BTW, Ive tried printing anyway despite the heat bed not heating up and the heat bed thermister reading 0 C. It doesn't print and the extruder motor doesn't turn and the fan doesn't switch on. In short nothing happens
except a flashing red led on the ramps board.

Here is the configuration file as supplied by the vendor:
#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configurtion file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h 
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//User specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during startup.
//Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made
//to this build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ "  8-15-13 " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(FOLGER TECH, 8 i3 Prusa Config)" //Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000
//#define BAUDRATE 115200

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3  = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 4  = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5  = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6  = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 7  = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 8  = Teensylu
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9  = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings  ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
//
//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k 
//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10	// (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken. 
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 245
#define BED_MAXTEMP 200

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define PID_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle; 256=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
  //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port. 
  //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
  #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
                                  // is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
  #define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255  //limit for the integral term
  #define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor withing the PID
  #define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.08  
    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 114  

// Makergear
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 0.1  
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 12  

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V    
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED.  If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// uncomment this to enable PID on the bed.   It uses the same ferquency PWM as the extruder. 
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater. 
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you proabaly 
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delived to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 256 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed.  (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 256 // limits duty cycle to bed; 256=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKi .023
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED



//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 10
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// corse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  // fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignord if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
//  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops. 
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops. 
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops. 
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true  //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 185
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 50, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings 

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,3840,90}  // default steps per unit for ultimaker {78.7402,78.7402,200*8/3,760*1.1}920
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {250, 250, 2, 22}    // (mm/sec)    
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {1000,1000,5,1000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          500    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves 
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  500   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).  
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings".  You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD  //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console

//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL  //the ultipanel as on thingiverse

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
#endif 

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180 
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255		// Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 225
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255		// Insert Value between 0 and 255


#ifdef ULTIPANEL
//  #define NEWPANEL  //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
  #define SDSUPPORT
  #define ULTRA_LCD
  #define LCD_WIDTH 20
  #define LCD_HEIGHT 4
  
#else //no panel but just lcd 
  #ifdef ULTRA_LCD
    #define LCD_WIDTH 16
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 2    
  #endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// M240  Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: [www.doc-diy.net]
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN     23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 02:39AM
hey im also having this same problem from Folger Tech

I'm using their marlin firmware configs and cant get my heatbed and hot end to heat up.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 03:06AM
Summing it up:
- you've tried two ramps boards, for now I'll assume hardware is ok
- the config file is ok too
- the red led is for the hot end iirc so that pin is correct

What's left is that the pin asdignment may be incorrect in pins.h. At this point it may be better to try the newer marlin 1.0.2-1 firmware, use the included config file and put the settings from your old config file in it. That way you can be sure all files are as they should be.

If that still doesn't work try replacing the arduino board.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 04:31AM
Ok now you'll know just how new i am to all this smiling smiley how do i get the marlin 1.0.2-1 firmware ? Is that the arduino programs that came with the printer ?

Incidentally I came across this URL, it seems that it could STILL be the RAMPS board as most are cheap and faulty.

[www.soliforum.com]

Incidentally I tried another Arduino Mega and the problem only got worse, only the Y-Axis moves/homes now. This is really weird.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2015 06:36AM by Khaled.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 10:06AM
Folger Tech has had a problem with many of us on the forum with their thermistors being broken when received. Have you tried a new one? Simple question.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 11:24AM
Sadly we don't them here. But I can try plugging it into the extruder thermister and holding it against the hot end to see if it gives any reading
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 06:05PM
marlin github is easy to find with google, click on releases and choose the release you want.

Of course it could be the ramps board, it's unlikely that two boards have exactly the same fault unless the whole batch has the same problem. You can try locating the d8 and ground pin on the arduino and check with a digital volt meter if there's a signal when switching the heated bed on/off 0 or about 4-5V resp. If the signal isn't there it's either the arduino that's faulty or the firmware (more likely). If there is a signal the mosfet may be faulty, if you have some soldering skills you can try replacing it with the same or equivalent mosfet like irlb8743. You'll need to isolate the problem step by step.

You could order from a reliable supplier a ramps and arduino replacement.

You can use a 100k resistor to test if the temp sensor input is working correctly. Or connect the hot end thermistor.

You can try connecting the fan to the heated bed to check if it's working. Check and double check the schematics, connection diagrams, pin numbers Wiring etc.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 20, 2015 08:01PM
Despite the heat bed thermister giving the correct resistance with an ohm meter, turns out it IS faulty as you suggested. This must be why the heatbed is not heating up. Its contacts at the ramps board are giving 0 Volts because its not being activated.
Of course, this might not be the only problem but I will have to move beyond it before I find out. Luckily I have found thermisters here, not the same type and not as accurate (NTC Thermistor 10K) but they don't need a pullup resistor and the heat bed doesn't need to have too accurate a temp.
I'll let you know once it arrives and I've tried it.

A quick update, even with the other thermistor connected to the heat bed connection on the RAMPS board and Repetier fooled into thinking the heat bed is at 60C , I could still not heat the heat bed and its connections read 0 Volts still. Anyway, Once i get the new thermister Ill install it and Ill post here again.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2015 11:44PM by Khaled.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 21, 2015 03:49AM
good to hear you're making progress!

Do realize that there's no lookup table for 10K thermistors in marlin, you'll need to create your own by using the datasheet and some calculations. Then you can calibrate using a reference like a digital voltmeter with thermocouple. It's much easier to get a known type 100k thermistors.

Yes, in the firmware the minimum temperature to start printing is 5 degrees C. If it reads 0 it will never start heating as 0 degrees indicates a problem and starting a print is a risk for a fire hazard.

You can check if the 11A polyfuse has a low or high restance, unpowered. Low is good.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2015 03:52AM by imqqmi.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 21, 2015 09:13PM
Finally !! I wondered how the thermister could give me a resistence of 95K and still be faulty so I took it out and tried measuring it again. It gave me 0 Ohms and 95K on alternate trials and turned out the thermister connector was faulty. I cut it off and fixed another one in its place and the problem went away !!!
Now my problem is the filament won't load into the extruder smiling smiley but this could be because Ive never done it before and am doing something wrong.
Anyway thanks a lot for all your support which resulted in fixing the problem.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 22, 2015 01:21AM
Not sure if you can help me with this problem. I think its mostly due to my ignorance. The problem is while the extruder extrudes when i do it manually from Repetier, it does not extrude while printing.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 22, 2015 03:24AM
Great to hear, well done!

I'll try, I've had probably every problem with the extruder that one could have and fixed it in the end smiling smiley

First things first, did you calibrate the extruder? Is it extruding 50mm when told to do so? 50mm is the length of filament going in. Did you set the correct diameter and is the multiplier set to 1 in the slicer? Is the extruder motor turning, what about retraction speed and acceleration, maybe it's too fast getting stuck or retracting too far getting stuck in the cold end. Also check motor current.
See triffid hunters calibration guide:
calibration guide

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2015 03:26AM by imqqmi.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
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Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 22, 2015 04:34AM
I didnt do any of that that i know of smiling smiley I just followed the manual that folger supplied. Ill check those tings and get back to you

Ok, I discovered that I had done most of the tuning you suggested when I followed the manual except the calibration and the polulu voltage adjustment
I tried different Voltage values for the extruder polulu and different calibration values, however i do not think its a calibration issue as calibration is for fine/coarse tuning but my problem is more fundamental than this

I thought the extruder was not extruding during printing but now i think its extruding an extremely small amount that its not noticeable. Here is why I think so, When i manually extrude 100mm thru repetier I get only approx 15mm, hence when printing a .2 mm layer the result will be proportionally very small and un noticeable.
No matter what calibration values i use in configuration when i extrude manually the result is either around 15mm (for small extrusion calibration values eg 27) or just a high pitch noise (for high extrusion calibration values 900) from the motor and no extrusion at all.

This is not a calibration problem in my opinion. Something else is the problem here. Any advice ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2015 05:39AM by Khaled.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 26, 2015 10:41PM
Ok Im seriously stuck. I've done whats in triffid hunters page. Ive gone as far as buying a new direct drive extruder incase the original one was faulty. Nothing makes the printer print. I can calibrate the printer to a millimeter using gcode in repetier but when i input these values into
configuration.h nothing at all happens and i mean no change at all. Ive tried random settings in configuration.h from the internet, again no change.
Put simply the extruders extrudes when its done manually from repetier but does NOT extrude when printing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 27, 2015 03:10AM
Could you attach the gcode? What slicer do you use and which host, repetier host?
Check if the extruder depends on speed:
G1 E10 F120

Then slow:
G1 E20 F30

Some stepssticks are configured wrong for slow movements. Let me know what step stick you have, A4988 or DRV8825?


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Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
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Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 27, 2015 03:51AM
Im not at home at the moment so Ill attach the GCode when i get home, but in the meantime, Im using Repetier-Host (1.6.6) and the slicer that comes built into it.
Im using the A4988 drivers
Also, how do i check if the extruder depends on speed ? Do you mean I should type in the gcodes you mentioned and and see if the extruder works ?
BTW I tried upgrading to the latest release of Marlin but there are many compilation errors so im switching back

If you meant what Gcode I used to calibrate the extruder, I used
M92 Exx
then used the formula new_stepspermm = old steps * 100/extruded length
Regards

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2015 03:57AM by Khaled.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 27, 2015 04:12AM
You can enter gcode in repetier host on the tab with manual controls, yep, it's to determine if the extruder runs smoothly at slow speeds.

It's best to stick with the firmware you have. The release candidates can be considered beta, with all the problems that it may have. I still use marlin firmware that came with the printer, though I made a few changes to suit my needs.

Did you save the settings in flash memory with the command M500? Make sure eeprom is enabled in firmware, see configuration.h. Or do you use it in the slicer startup code?


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Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
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Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 27, 2015 05:50AM
I didnt use M500 to save settings, what I did was use M92 and M203 (if i remember correctly) to change the feedrate and the step per unit untill i got the 100mm im usupposed to get with the repetier manual controls then put the values into the variables in Configuration.h, recompiled it and uploaded to arduino. I hope thats the right procedure
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 27, 2015 08:33AM
It depends, if EEPROM is enabled those values are ignored as far as I know. Find
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
in configuration.h. If the line isn't commented out, it means it's using the EEPROM settings.


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Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
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Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 28, 2015 01:59AM
EEPROM_SETTINGS is enabled (uncommented). In all cases I was actually exiting Repetier and starting arduino IDE and typing in the values into config.h so it amounts to the same thing (hopefully).
the stepper driver is set to .6V
the max step per unit was 80 80 4000 180 (90 gave me 50mm instead of 100 so i changed it to 180). This made Repetier manual control extrude 100mm. But no change happened to printing, it simply does not extrude while printing.
I tried G1 E10 F120 and G1 E20 F30 as you suggested and both worked normally from Repetier command line, only i made a few changes and now their effect is reversed while manual extrusion produces a vibrating or clicking sound - and Im trying to find out why.
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 28, 2015 03:16AM
Sounds like the filament is stuck. Check if you can turn the extruder motor with your hand when the motor isn't powered. If it's difficult to turn something is blocking it or binding. Also make sure the hot end is at the right tempetature. Is the thermistor making good contact with the heater block? Can you verify the temperature with a digital volt meter and thermo couple?
Always make backups and keep a log of changes you make and what it did, including filenames, line numbers, etc, it will be much easier to retrace your steps. I have a word document of more than 50 pages keeping track of most what I been doing, trying and experimenting. If you have the same problem again some day you can find the answers in the log.

If it works manually extruding, I'd check the slicer. Help me to help you by attaching the gcode.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
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Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 28, 2015 04:55AM
I don't think the filament is stuck because it works fine when I manually extrude thru Repetier controls, it clicks and vibrates a bit after about 30mm but it extrudes without reversing. Its only gdode entered at the command line that causes the reversal.
I usually keep changes documented in config.h by commenting out old defs and adding new. This way i can always backtrack but due to frustration last night I didnt do so.
I can't turn the extruder with my hand as it is a direct drive but it does turn and extrude when using repetier manual controls.
Here is the slicer GCode. I'm sure you didn't mean all of it so im attaching the first 30 or so lines (the testcube).

I just ran a print with the fan and heatsink off the extruder to see whats happening, I found that during printing the stepper turns in reverse effectively ejecting the filament !

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2015 05:13AM by Khaled.
Attachments:
open | download - gcode.txt (2.6 KB)
Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 28, 2015 06:22AM
What does the temperature do when extruding, does it drop? It may drop too much that it blocks extrusion at some point. You may want to do auto pid tuning and enter the values it produces. Search in the reprap wiki for the guide.

I'd make a file backup of the whole firmware before changing it and keep some older copies. It's easier to work from a known state. Ymmv.

Yes please, the whole gcode file, the settings are at the end.

It reverses during print but not when manually extruding? That is strange. Are you sure you use the arrows pointing down, slow and fast feed to extrude? Are you sure the motor current is set correctly? Does the motor get warm or hot? Does the stepstick chip get hot? What are the microstep settings, the jumpers under the stepstick? What are the current speed, acceleration, retraction speed and acceleration settings? Start with low settings:
Vmax extruder 10mm/s
Amax 1000mm/s2
Retraction speed 20mm/s
Retraction acceleration 1000mm/s2


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
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Re: Heat bed not heating and heat bed thermistor reading 0 volts
November 28, 2015 06:44AM
In the last part the extruder extrudes extremely little:
G1 X106.672 Y106.126 E1.00915 F2160.000
G1 X106.326 Y106.377 E1.01830
G1 X105.951 Y106.584 E1.02745
G1 X105.550 Y106.742 E1.03667
G1 X105.139 Y106.848 E1.04574
G1 X104.714 Y106.901 E1.05489
G1 X104.286 Y106.901 E1.06404
G1 X103.861 Y106.848 E1.07318
G1 X103.447 Y106.741 E1.08234

Looks like the perimeter loops extrude correctly, though it may be that it needs some extra loops to get going. The print itself seems to be underextruding by a factor 10.

What are the extrusion width values in the advanced tab? I'd recommend 0.5mm in the first field and set the rest to 0. This will disable automatic width setting by slic3r.


--
Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]
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