Does Borosilicate Glass need to be covered in Kapton Tape when printing?

Does Borosilicate Glass need to be covered in Kapton Tape when printing?

I have an MK2a PCB Heated bed for the Prusa i3 I'm building, and I Was wondering if I needed to cover the Borosilicate Glass in Kapton tape when printing....I've only seen one person do this on the internet and it seems like that would be kind of expensive.

What material are you printing? ABS sticks well to kapton, not so well to glass without slopping on some glue, hairspray, or other stuff to try to get it to stick.
PLA seems to stick well to blue painter's tape.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Ah so it depends on what you're printing with...okay. I haven't ordered any abs or pla yet. pla's the stuff the stuff that smells like waffles right?

Right, sort of.

You'll have a hard time printing ABS without it delaminating or pulling off the bed unless your machine is enclosed and can maintain about 45C inside the enclosure.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I have found (with ABS and PLA) a thin film of high-temp melt hot glue is extremely effective for securing prints to the borosilicate. It is the yellow sticks of hot-glue. It has a very high melting point so it does not liquify during a print unless your bed is running around 90 C. The heat from the extruded filiment is enough to allow the print to melt the glue and stick to the glass. My corners lifting off the bed has stopped since using this trick. You will need to heat the bed after the print is finished and cooled...I usually remove the glass and run a propane tourch under it (keep it moving to avoid too much heat) until I can lift the print off. I reapply a fresh coat of the glue every-so-often using a high temp glue gun, large torch and large square of pla I printed just for the job. The glue also doubles as an awesome way to secure my magnets I use to keep the glass in place on the heat bed. I use 8 magnets from old HDD's, 1 in each corner of the glass and 1 under the heat bed. I like this method of securing the glass because it is less room lost compaired to the clip method.

If you are going to print with PLA, you don't need ANYTHING except a light coating of hair spray and the bed at 70 C. It will stick like heck until the bed returns to room temp. Just set your nozzle zero at 0.1 mm, layer height at 0.2 or 0.3 with 150% extrusion rate FOR THE FIRST LAYER. Make sure you calibrate the extruder before anything else!!!! YouTube has many aids to learn how to do that.