Wilson TS First Build and Instructions
Posted by andreq
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 13, 2015 10:47PM |
STEP #1 - Direct drive extruder
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2015 11:12PM by andreq.
- Gather the parts
From left to right
2 - M3 x 60 screws
8 - M3 nuts
1 - M3 lock nut
1 - M4 nut
1 - MK7 drive gear
4 - M3 washers
6 - M3 x 30 screws
2 - Extruder idler springs
1 - 624RS bearing
1 - M4 x 20 screw
4 - M3 x 14 screws
1 - Stepper motor
1 - J-Head assembly (built by mjrice)
1 - Extruder idler
1 - Extruder fan duct
1 - Extruder body
1 - Extruder hot-end clamp
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Insert the bearing into the idler and lock it with the M4 x 20 screw
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Screw the MK7 gear on the motor shaft. Align the grub screw with the motor flat profile. Place it somewhat in the middle, we'll adjust it later.
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Attach the extruder body as shown, loosely screw 2 M3 x 30 in the back holes only. You may want to place the motor wires as to make them point up.
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Thread the remaining screw into the body and idler and tighten all 3 screws.
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Prepare the idler spring and M3 x 60 screws as shown.
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Insert the M3 nut into the slot on top of the extruder body
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Mount both M3 x 60 screw into the idler and through the nuts as shown. Tighten it so the bearing spring back nicely on the MK7 gear, but you'll probably have to adjust it when you first try the extruder.
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2015 11:12PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 13, 2015 10:59PM |
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Adjust the MK7 height so its aligned with the bearing. If you have some filament, use it as a guide.
You might want to loosen the grub screw before putting the M3 x 60 screws at it's kinda hard to get in there.
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Attach the J-head using the hot-end clamp and 2 M3 x 30 screws and nuts.
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Fix the fan to the fan duct using 4 M3 x 14 screws and nuts.
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Screw on the Fan assembly to the extruder body with a M3 x 30 screw and lock nut.
You want this to be tight as to be able to move the fan and it stay in place.
I have mine where the fan duct plastic is kinda bent in as to hold the whole thing with friction. (If anyone want to correct me on this, please let me know)
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You should have a complete Direct Drive Extruder now!
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2015 11:28PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 18, 2015 10:39PM |
Update #1
I've received my extrusion from Misumi on Monday. The cuts are insanely precise!
Step #2 - Y Axis
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2015 10:59PM by andreq.
I've received my extrusion from Misumi on Monday. The cuts are insanely precise!
Step #2 - Y Axis
- Gather the parts
2 - 400mm extrusion
2 - 400mm smooth rod
4 - Y bearing holder
1 - Y end motor mount
1 - Y end idler mount
4 - Frame brace
12 - T-slot nut
12 - M5 x 10 screw
4 - Linear Bearing
1 - Stepper motor
Insert extrusions and rods into Y end idler mount.
The fit on mine was quite loose, but just enough so it stay straight.
Feed 2 T-slot into left, bottom and right cavity into both extrusions.
Slide 2 linear bearing per smooth rods
Close everything with the Y end motor mount.
Again, the fit on mine was quite easy to align and no hammering was necessary.
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Screw all 4 corner with 2 M5 x 10 screws; one on the left side and on on the right side.
Attach 2 frame brace per smooth rod on the bottom side using M5 x 10 screws.
[Continue in next thread]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2015 10:59PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 18, 2015 10:39PM |
- Gather some more parts
230x230 mdf board
1 - Limit switch hardware
8 - M3 Lock nut.
4 - M3 x 10 screw.
8 - M3 x 14 screw.
1 - Gt2 pulley.
1 - Limit switch.
1 - 624RS bearing with plastic idler casing.
This was definitely too tight, I pushed the bearing in and it didn't break the sides, but the plastic is kinda white all around the bearing. I might print some new one later
Mount the bearing holder on the bearing (slide the rod into the slot first)
Align the front holder 80mm from the MDF board and the back holder 10mm from the board. (Might want to see the video for this).
Center the whole assembly (eye ball it) and mark each hole.
Drill the mounting hole with a 9/64 drill bit.
Mount each external screws (M3 x 14) loosely and make sure the bed still move smoohtly on the rods.
Align the frame assemble with the bed and tighten the external screws.
Add the inside screws (M3 x 14) and tighthen.
On mine, I had to keep the screws a bit "loose" otherwise my print bed wouldn't slide smoothly at all.
Since I'm using lock nut, I think it should be alright. We'll see if it stay in place.
The old bearing holder used to have bigger hole for the screws, looks like it might be better to adjust if the mdf holes aren't perfect?
Mount pulley on motor so it sit flush with the top of the shaft.
Attach the motor to the Y end motor mount using 4 M3 x 10 screws.
Install the limit switch near the motor as shown.
Insert the M4 nut into the slot near the idler mount
Fit the idler bearing and screw it down with a M4 x 20 screw.
[Continue in next thread]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2015 11:23PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 18, 2015 10:39PM |
- We need some more parts again!
1 - Gt2 timing belt (whole lenght).
1 - Y belt holder and tensioner.
3 - M3 x 30 screws.
3 - M3 nuts.
Insert 1 nut and screw it into the tensioner portion of the Y belt holder.
- [No photo see video : [www.youtube.com]]
Find the Y belt holder position and drill 2 holes
Mount the Y belt holder as shown.
Insert the tensioner and screw a bit so it's held in place.
You now have a complete Y axis!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2015 11:42PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 19, 2015 06:57AM |
The video uses an older style holder... I made the same mistake by following the video 
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 22, 2015 08:05PM |
Step #3 - XZ frame
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Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2015 08:29PM by andreq.
- Gather the parts
2 - 400 extrusion
2 - 330 extrusion
29 - M5 x 10 screw
37 - T-slot nut
2 - Z top frame/rod holder
2 - Z motor mount
2 - Frame read bracket
1 - Z end-stop holder
Insert 4 nuts into the a 400mm extrusion.
This will be the right side of the frame.
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Screw the rear bracket using M5 x 10 screws.
Make sure its flush with the extrusion.
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Attach the Z top frame/rod holders with the 2 more M5 x 10 screws.
Add 4 nuts in the opposite slot of the assembly.
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Fix the front of the Z top frame/rod holder.
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Install the Z motor mount using the remaining 2 nuts.
Make sure it sit flush with extrusion.
Repeat the steps for the left side, but add 7 nuts instead of 4 at first.
[Continue in next thread]
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2015 08:29PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 22, 2015 08:05PM |
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Insert 4 t-slot nuts into the bottom 330 extrusion.
This will be the front of the assembly.
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Slide 6 nuts into the back of this same extrusion.
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Screw the remaining Z motor mount screw.
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Fix the rear bracket to the 330 extrusion.
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Take the remaining 330 extrusion and insert :
2 nuts in the front
2 nuts on top
3 nuts in the rear.
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Fix the top extrusion on the Z top frame/rod holder front and back.
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Get the Z end-stop and fastener.
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Mount the switch to the plastic holder.
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Slide a t-slot nut into the left most slot of the whole frame assembly
[Continue in next thread]
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2015 08:44PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 22, 2015 08:05PM |
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Fix end-stop assembly into left most slot using M5 x 10 screw.
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You'll be left with 2 unused screw.... oups
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2015 08:47PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions March 25, 2015 02:44PM |
Ok Great,
Will try that, hopefully I too will have a 3d printer to show off sometime soon
Thanks for all the help!! (posts)
Khel.
Will try that, hopefully I too will have a 3d printer to show off sometime soon
Thanks for all the help!! (posts)
Khel.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions April 02, 2015 01:30PM |
Andrew - your photos are astoundingly good. Can I use them? 
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions April 04, 2015 01:10PM |
You can definitely use them! I made this guide to help anyone building your design
On a side note, I'm back from vacation, expect the next steps to show up soon!
On a side note, I'm back from vacation, expect the next steps to show up soon!
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions April 19, 2015 05:00PM |
Quote
andreq
You can definitely use them! I made this guide to help anyone building your design
On a side note, I'm back from vacation, expect the next steps to show up soon!
andreq, hope you didn't forget about us. I talked to Marty about getting a Wilson TS, just waiting for him
to let me know about the black extrusion (just the color I like, and he just got an order of the silver). But
I can't wait to get started, so I am eager to read everything I can find. Hopefully to make my build go
easier!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2015 05:01PM by Michaelj.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions April 22, 2015 08:07PM |
I'm back ! Sorry for the delay. Had tons of stuff going on. Finished the printer a few weeks ago and it's going strong!
Step #4 - X Axis
Step #4 - X Axis
- Gather the parts
370mm smooth rod
This was a bit confusing, I think 380mm would fit and "make sense" ?
The 370mm can move left and right in the finished printer, but it never happened to me for now.
The printer won't fall apart if they move. It was just a bit weird when I got it together, I felt like it should have been "full length".
8 - Linear Bearing
1 - Gt2 pulley
3 - M3 x 14 screw
2 - M5 nut
2 - M4 nut
2 - M3 nut
2 - M4 x 20 screw
2 - M3 x 30 screw
1 - Low tension spring
1 - X end motor mount
1 - X carriage
1 - X tensioner
1 - 624RS bearing with plastic idler casing (this fits extremely tight, I don't know if I'm doing something wrong)
1 - X end idler
1 - Limit switch with hardware
1 - Stepper motor
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Insert the 8 bearings into their respective spots.
Get ready to curse! That was some tight holes!
I love that bright neon green color I got from mjrice, but I think this PLA print a tad smaller than some other color.
All in all, I had to use a bolt the size of the bearing and an hammer. No damage was done on any parts/bearing, so far so good
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Fix the Z end stop screw (M3 x 30) to the motor mount.
Make sure to slot the spring on the screw before installing it.
It would have been wise to use a washer there, maybe? Haven't got any problem without one.
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Push fit the M5 nut into each end of the axis.
If you feel they really are too tight, you can use a soldering iron to heat the nut first.
I didn't have to do that, use groove joint pliers and it will be an easy step.
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Slide a M3 nut into the tensioner housing.
Install a M3 x 30 screw just enough so you see it poke through in the middle slot.
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Fix the tensioner to the X idler using an M4 x 20 screw and M4 nuts.
The screw should go through the middle slot of the tensioner.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions April 22, 2015 08:07PM |
Fix the bearing assembly at the end of the tensioner using a M4 x 20 scre and nut.
I have no clue if this has to be tight or loose.
I'm planing on printing small washer so I can screw it tight without having the sides rubbing on the bearing plastic housing.
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Install the X limit switch (forgot to get a better photo)
Slide the smooth rod into the idler.
Slide the carriage on the smooth rod.
Finally, slide the motor mount on the smooth rod.
This assembly won't stay like this by itself, it will be held in place when you mount the Z axis on the printer.
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Screw in the motor using 3 M3 x 14 screw.
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Install the pulley on the motor shaft "upside down" (see photo).
You can adjust its height later when we slide the belt.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 08:20PM by andreq.
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Re: Wilson TS First Build and Instructions April 22, 2015 09:03PM |
Step #5 - Z Axis
- Gather the parts
1 - 350mm smooth rod
4 - T-slot screw
8 - M3 x 14 screw
2 - Stepper Motor
2 - M5 x 325 threaded rod
2 - Shaft coupler
1 - Y axis assembly
1 - XZ frame assembly
1 - X axis assembly
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Place the Y axis rear frame mount 90mm away from the rear feets.
Fix it with a T-slot screw.
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Place the XZ frame on the rear mount and fix the front mount flush to it using a T-slot screw.
I did this step having the printer sideway. Mjrice tip to use a normal computer power supply as a stand is real great!
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