ABS Tprint issues. Wavy?

Hello Everyone. I am trying to print using ABS-T its grey transparent color. I have my temps set for 230 degrees, and my bed to 110 degrees. The first few layers print out awesomely nice and smooth. But around layer 10 to 15 it becomes bumpy and wavy as if its not laying flat.

Everything else prints out fine. My printer does PLA without issue but ABS is giving me some real trouble. Below is a picture. Any suggestions to make this work would be greatly appreciated.

The adhesion to the print bed could be the problem, do the edges lift off the bed? Is the bed thick and rigid enough? I had 1.4mm aluminium plates that would bend by ABS. I now use 2mm glass and this effect is no longer an issue.

I use vinyl on the glass plate with good results. You can try hair spray (extra strong), glue stick, PVA glue (normal school glue), or ABS slurry. I don't like messy stuff on my bed so I use vinyl and can print about 20x on it before replacing it. I use transparent vinyl often used as a outdoor table cover.

Also, when the print is done, leave it cooling on the print bed. It may be slow but I've noticed that when it's cooling without being on a sturdy surface the ABS may still warp.

The corner is curling up during print. This is pushing the printed object against the extruder nozzle. Cleaning your print bed with Acetone, printing on kapton tape, using glue stick, printing with brim (at least 5mm) , or adding circular tabs to the corners of your object can help prevent curling.

It is warping slightly on the one corner. The rest of it seems to lay flat fine. What temps are you guys running at? anything different?

Right now to help with adhesion I am using masking tape with some white glue stick on it.

I have kapton tape but its hard to lay it flat its about 4 inches wide in a roll. Any tips?

My bed has some marring on it from early print runs where I was still figuring out bed leveling. But other than that its clean I use a 50/50 spray and my tape pusher to get a good clean bed. 50/50 is a step above wd40 and a stronger degreaser and greaser.

This test print had a brim on it but it peeled off of it slightly.

Quote
OO DURKE OO
It is warping slightly on the one corner. The rest of it seems to lay flat fine. What temps are you guys running at? anything different?

Right now to help with adhesion I am using masking tape with some white glue stick on it.

I have kapton tape but its hard to lay it flat its about 4 inches wide in a roll. Any tips?

My bed has some marring on it from early print runs where I was still figuring out bed leveling. But other than that its clean I use a 50/50 spray and my tape pusher to get a good clean bed. 50/50 is a step above wd40 and a stronger degreaser and greaser.

This test print had a brim on it but it peeled off of it slightly.

The best way to lay kapton is to use the same technique that Auto window tint guys use which is a very mild mix of detergent in water iee just a few drops of Dish washing liquid in a spray bottle with around a pint of water (I Did say weak).

Wet the plate apply the kapton tape and squegy it out with a credit card or similar.

there are several youtube videos that will give you the idea one of which is Film application

HTH

Doug

thanks I'll take a look

I do this all day every day, use glass on your heat bed, clip on with those little black paper clips, use hair spray to help adhesion, I use 3 light layers. Print ABS at 240-245c with first layer bed temp 105 then 100c for the rest of the print. Use at least a 1mm skirt to help get rid of the curling, I use 2mm.

Another option is to use PEI (Polyetherimide) as your building surface. Many claim that it's the best thing since the discovery of the wheel ....no, really! :-P
Because they say that it holds tight to your project, regardless of the material/filiment being used--while your bed is hot, and then releasing your project sometime during the cooling off process . No mess, no hassle!

I myself don't know this yet....haven't got that far. I did order some from Amazon though, and it's on its way >> [www.amazon.com]

Here is a link explaining the best process of utilizing PEI: [forum.seemecnc.com]
And for those interested... the adventure in arriving there: [forum.seemecnc.com]

It also helps to prevent curling if you print in a warm room.

ABS juice also works well as an adhesive for your print to a glass bed, but does leave a visible film on some print pieces.

ive got the wavyness sorted. But it will bust half way up the print. Ive tried using less infill as low as 25% but it still is warping then cracking towards the top of the build. no fan is on it. any ideas?

I have tried temps at

230 for extruder
90 to 110 for the bed

and infill levels from 25% up to 80%

but in all tries it keeps cracking towards the top and a whole layer will pop off ruining the build.

any ideas?

I am officially done with ABS worst material EVER! It gives a nice print feel but it just WILL NOT STICK! I have tried flat no bubbled kapton tape, hairspray, glue sticks of all kinds, abs slurry, glass with those mixes and no luck what so ever! I just can not get it to stick to the build plate at all. I have even adjusted my temps from 90 to 110 degrees on the plate.

whatever I build just keeps cracking or warping off the plate.

And I have used TONS of glue, hairspray, and ABS slurry and I have also tried very little to medium amounts.


ARRRRRRG!

PLA perfect everytime no issues.

Make sure that the printer is in a warm environment, and that will probably help.

110 degrees on the plate is what I use, with extrusion at 240, and in a warm room, I can get stuff to stick most of the time. Some shapes just won't, and that's just how it is, I guess. If the room is cooler, then it's much worse. I guess that's why a lot of people print in an enclosed space.

This is very true, is your printer is not enclosed, you'll most likely have warping on the edges of your larger prints. A lot of people build nice enclosures, however just using a big enough cardboard box will work too