Hot end recommendations

Hi
I am looking to get a hot end for my rostock 3d printer. I was wondering what are some recommendations for a good hot end. I would like the capability to print with ABS, PLA, Taulman Bridge, and Taulman Tritan.
I would also prefer a U.S based dealer for easier and faster shipping. I was thinking about getting a j head but I am not sure which version I should get? The hot end also has to have the same style mount as the j head so I do not need to print any more parts to get started printing.
I have an all metal hot end from Folger technologies but I cannot get it to work without jamming, and the entire hot end heats up so it started to melt the clamp on top of the extruder holding the filament.
Thanks
Tanner

Quote
tanner331
Hi
I am looking to get a hot end for my rostock 3d printer. I was wondering what are some recommendations for a good hot end. I would like the capability to print with ABS, PLA, Taulman Bridge, and Taulman Tritan.
I would also prefer a U.S based dealer for easier and faster shipping. I was thinking about getting a j head but I am not sure which version I should get? The hot end also has to have the same style mount as the j head so I do not need to print any more parts to get started printing.
I have an all metal hot end from Folger technologies but I cannot get it to work without jamming, and the entire hot end heats up so it started to melt the clamp on top of the extruder holding the filament.
Thanks
Tanner

E3D V6 all the way they are superb.

E3D V6

Doug

E3D is available in the USA from Maker's Toolworks and Filastruder.....

Ok, one last question I had is what size of nozzle should I use?
Thanks
Tanner

I have a cheap J-head knock-off on my Rostock that prints ok for the time being. My biggest issue is getting the first layer calibrated correctly. If you are considering a J-head, I believe the original comes from www.hotends.com. However I am contemplating a new E3D v6 based on the positive feedback it seems to get.

I believe I have read the 0.4 mm nozzles are the best for beginners, with smaller nozzles being more prone to issues, thus requiring a little more experience and precise printers.

As for your current hotend, do you have a fan on the fins or just the print? The E3D is also an all-metal hotend, but it comes with a fan for cooling the fins specifically.

Quote
vreihen
E3D is available in the USA from Maker's Toolworks and Filastruder.....

5% off with couplon code reprap at Filastruder makes it $79 shipped!

My experience with all metal hot ends was disappointing, they are fickle at best, unusable at worst.
If the heat range fits within a J-head's range, I'll take it any day of the week. If it can squeeze it through, it will do it well.

On a delta, all metals just slow you down due to weight and the fact that they do not extrude as fast. In the case of the E3d V6, the 1.75mm isn't even truly all metal. It's basically a metal finned J-head as it uses a teflon liner still.

.5mm is the best for beginners, .35 has the highest detail but is the most clog prone. A .4 has nearly the same print quality as a .35, but nearly the same clog resistance as a .5mm which is why it's my preferred nozzle. It also has far less back pressure allowing for higher speeds.

i do a mostly metal hotend for $38 with shipping, see the links below

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-=( blog )=- -=( thingiverse )=- -=( 3Dindustries )=- -=( Aluhotend - mostly metal hotend)=--=( Facebook )=-

Hi
I ended up ordering the ED3 V6 from Fillastruder.
Thanks for the help deciding on a new hotend.
Tanner

If you've ever had a J-head melt on you you'll know why the all metal hot ends get attention. If you've ever had a fan fail on an all metal hot end you'll know why some steer clear. It's a trade off. The primary purpose of the metal hot ends is to enable higher temperature printing. The plastic hot ends just can't handle some higher temp filaments.

In that respect the E3D is all metal even for the models with a liner because all the stressed components are metal. This means that the nozzle won't melt the body and get spit out onto the heated bed.

The all metal designs often have trouble with pla because it is so sticky when partially melted. A little oil can help as well as a good polish on the internals.

On the subject of polish, the E3D V6 is currently polished at the bottom end of the heat break tube only. This is great for printing but it means that the diameter of the tube is larger at the bottom. If they are still doing it the same as when I bought mine a few months ago then this means it will be very difficult to pull fillament out when changing filament or cleaning. This is especially true for PLA. I ended up drilling out the top a tiny bit to fix that (both heatsink and heatbreak). Just don't mess up the nice polish at the business end.

Regarding printing speed I would love to see real apples to apples comparison of different hot ends and the force required to print at various speeds.

Hmm, maybe a contest.

Hi,
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You can read a lot of info on out Facebook:
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Thanks
Arik

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2014 01:08PM by arik.