Filament slipping with buda style hot end

I have a wade's extruder with a homemade hobbed bolt. I got a new hot end (the buda style one form Gadgets 3D) and the extruder is struggling and the filament is slipping.

I was using a J-Head MK-V hot end and it worked perfectly (but that got messed up so had to replace it).

I noticed that buda style hot end does require more force but am not sure if it is my hobbed bolt or the hot end.

It could be that the hobbed bolt isn't gripping enough to produce the force or it could be that the buda hot end is just faulty (i've read reviews stating its one of the better hot ends). It could also be something else.

What do you guys think? Any tips?

If the extruder worked fine before then i would look for other causes (ie the hotend.) Does the hot end hold constent temp while extruding? Did you get a esmaller orifice the the j head? Does slowing the print down solve the issue? Can you push filamet by hand easily? Do you get the expected extruded diameter for the orifice size? These will help give you an idea of where the problem may be, and help us diagnose the problem.

Each machine must be different, i had completely the same problem but bass ackwards.

I couldn't extrude for anything with my wades and j head and now i run the wades and buda style and i haven't had an issue since.

These machines are possessed i think.

I was using 0.4mm and it swapped it out for a 0.5mm now but when I used my hand to extrude (just pushing the filament down) I found that yea it is a bit hard to push. Takes a bit of force. the 0.5mm is slighlty better but not sure if its good enough.

The j-head is a lot easier to extrude compared to the buda but I cant use that.

I even drilled the buda out a bit to make the filament flow through better. It did a little bit but not a lot.

How much force does the buda need anyways? If they are all the same then I might just have to find a way to increase the force outputted by my hobbed bolt.

are you sure the temp is reading correctly? did you set the thermister table for the buda? maybe try turning up the heat by 10C and see if it pushes easier.

If you're using PLA you MUST use a fan towards top part of hot end. I had exact same issue and after installing a fan worked flawless.

What do you mean by setting the thermistor table for the buda?

Quote
Farhan
What do you mean by setting the thermistor table for the buda?

With in your configuration.h file you have to set it for the correct thermister, so it reads your temp correctly. After you have that correct, you can run the auto pid, to configure for temp control.

Ohh that. Well that is all good. I thought there was another setting which configured what type of hot end you were using. I made sure I am using the right thermistors and configured the software correctly. I even checked with a high accuracy thermocouple rig that I "borrowed" from work.

However, I cleaned out the hot end. Drilled it out with a 3mm drill. Made it nice and smooth. Used my brand new 0.5mm nozzle. Put a fan to cool down the cold end. Raised the temp 10° so at 210° for PLA (which I might lower later, print isn't the best quality). Tightened the crap out of the idler springs on the extruder so the bolt really gets a good grip. and I finally managed to get a successful print. The print was a good long 3 hour print. Nothing overheated or broke down so that was good.

Well I am out of PLA now so have to use the ABS to print. What temp is the best to print ABS at?

In my experience the hotter the better, right now I'm printing @245c but it depends on supplier and color black being the worse. Usually start with 230c and go hotter if you get warping, in my experience temperature helps with warping.

Why is black the worst? I have black ABS and it is cheap stuff I bought from ebay. It starts to crackle at anything above 240° and it has a weird lumpy texture when it comes out of the nozzle.

Because with three different suppliers I got abs that won't melt in acetone and to avoid delaminating I have to print at 265c with all metal hotend. I have no problems with other colors. If I print black at 230 I can basically squish prints with one hand , it's just that bad.

I hear that black filament is often made with leftover scraps mixed with black pigment. It tends to be the lowest quality variety.

Karen

Yea the black ABS is rubbish. Gonna try and sell it to some poor sucker

Will buy the glow in the dark PLA. That looks cool.