Few quick questions

Hi,

After a lot of tinkering I've finally got my Prusa running, but I've got a few things I would like to straighten out.

1. When homing using PrintRun the X and Y axis press then switch (I hear the click) then continue to drive for a few seconds. Its more noticeable on the Y axis where is does it for about 2 seconds. Is there a setting I've missed?
They don't do this with the Z axis.

2. I did some test prints last night and it seems the belts aren't tight enough. I know for the X axis I can use the cable tie method, but is there similar method for the Y axis belt.

3. Who is a good (and cheap) UK supplier for 8mm id springs (for the Z axis)?

4. Is RAMPS 1.4 + Sprinter with Slicer + PrintRun (to send the code) a good combination?

5. Blue scotch tape or Kapton tape for use on a mdf print bed? (I'm currently using blue scotch tape, but have some Kapton tape as well)

Many thanks,

Joe

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My Reprap blog

jds-reprap.blogspot.com

I find scotch tape peels along the joins frequently and kapton is much better, although since moving to a heated bed with glass I don't need tape

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

It seems 1. Is caused by either a short or a iffy connection on one of the endstops.

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My Reprap blog

jds-reprap.blogspot.com

I put a 2mm glass sheet from a picture frame on my unheated aluminium bed, then put blue tape on that. I guess the smoothness of the glass contributes to it sticking down quite happily without lifting.
And then once I have the Z-home clearance right for the first layer to get smooshed enough, about 0.2 mm tip clearance for 0.3 mm layers, PLA sticks like crazy. And it's a lot cheaper than kapton to replace.

2. You can use cable ties on the Y-Axis belt as well - just "daisy-chain" a few together to make a super-long cable-tie, then loop around both ends of the belt on the Y-Axis carriage, then tighten. See: [julianh72.blogspot.com.au] - crude, but effective!

3. For 8 mm springs - just try the local hardware store - they usually carry these sorts of things, and you can usually buy them singly or in small packets.

Hope this helps!

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Follow my Mendel Prusa build here: [julianh72.blogspot.com]

Thank you all, I love this community .

NelsonRap, I noticed the blue tape peeling after a print or two. I do plan on moving to a heated bed in the future, but at the moment my Prusa has sucked up enough cash.

nb99, interesting point. I purposely avoided glass for the base plate as I've had my fair share of heat broken glass. I'll look into it though.

julianh72, perfect I think I glanced over your post a while back, but never read the full text (I presumed it was X axis only).
Fair point, its just during the week I don't get chance to go into town (I live and work in the middle of nowhere) so Monday to Thursday its online shopping if I need anything.
ps I've been watching your blog for a while and do enjoy reading it when I get chance.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2012 10:32AM by JoeDaStudd.

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My Reprap blog

jds-reprap.blogspot.com

I can confirm that scotch blue tape doesn't peel off of a glass plate - I change it when it has been damaged by the printhead going too deep into it, that's not happening so often.

My glass is heat resistant btw - the one they sale for replacing owen windows, etc.

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Most of my technical comments should be correct, but is THIS one ?
Anyway, as a rule of thumb, always double check what people write.

My heated bed cost me less than $30 to make, one piece 5mm aluminium 225mmx225mm $7.5, 4 x 2.2 ohm housed resistors $8, 1 thermistor $5

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__________________________________________________________________________
Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand