I build my very first machine - H-bot 3D printer but still in progress

Hi, I am a Malaysian chinese, I know about 3D printer 5 years ago, at the time 3D printer was super amazing to me.I really want to build my own 3D printer, but that time i was young, I have insufficient knowledge, skill and tools. I can only keep my dream deep inside my heart.
After I start to work, I learn I gain my experience, finally I have the ability to build my very first machine in my life.
Of course, when we said about build, a starter should be a concept, research, availability, idea, design, drawing and build. My concept is high speed printing, good accuracy, stable, silent. Long life service, safe, handsome, able to print some storng material like abs, nylon, pom.
So I had used core xy design for my build. I choose ultumaker 1.5.7 as my motherboard, MK8 extruder, 100w servo motor x2 , H57 stepper motor, full metal structures, heater in enclosure environment with double layer plate so outside of the printer is cool to touch. Build size around xyz 260 x 260 x 300mm, inductive sensor attached for auto bed level features. 10mm 6061 aluminium print bed with 600w heater attached.
Actually, a lot of part I get it with FOC, remove from old machine, save me a lot of money. I have used cheap chinese linear bearing LM12UU with cage, around 1USD each. The problem come after I complete the machine I realized the cheap bearing has a lot free play and make a lot knocking noise when accelerating stop. I decided change to better Japanese NSK linear bearing and new linear rod. (the liner rod is pull from old machine), some safety components like thermal fuse, ELCB.
I will upload some photo later...

12/11/2016 here some photo about the build


Using Horizontal band saw cut 2"x2" 2.2mm metal hollow


My worker help me weld, clamp at milled face table saw. make sure xy platform is flat,


Using 90 degree angle ruler make sure the bottom go straight, I know there is some error, but I can do final adjustment on z axis bed and z axis rail


paint with scratch resistance matt-black


as i mention before this printer was made by scrap material, the picture show I using old aluminium 6061 plate and machining with CNC


linear rod and wheel are attached, this is a grounded machine


prepare welding for z axis bottom part


there is some funny way i used to make sure the z axis rail is +/- 1 degree to xy platform, fine tune will done on linear rail


install motor holder


buy from china, a ready made product.


insert DC motor to the the holder, why motor shaft has smaller diameter ? yes because the motor is pull from old machine, I replace bearing and do some service


cutting H bot end pulley bracket


should look like this




try the belt








making water block for hot end








modified extruder motor style, but Extruder carriage is temporary use, because I will upgrade to bowden style with many extruder


there is a pipe between water cold block and extruder, Im still waiting for the shipment arrive.






the machine look like this,


Z axis


Z axis plate






to lift heavy print bed, everything need go bigger.. i using 1604 lead screw, and larger stepper motor


my cheating way to install the motor












z axis inductive sensor for auto bed level







the thing I need to do
: add coupling to z axis leadscrew
: replace linear bearing to good quality

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2016 01:06PM by Spherehubter93.

It sounds like a great build. I am looking forward to seeing the pics.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I have upload some photo, enjoy it
the machine now is running !! First time i saw 3D printing progress with naked eye, H bot acceleration really fast and smooth in this machine.

Do you have a video?

Whaaaoooo! Really nice build!

But... do you need a forklift to move that beast ? :-D
The only "downside", with quality build like that, a coreXY could be a "better" choise than a simple H-bot.

I think i still can swap to corexy in future, I dint do so much research about corexy vs H bot, I realized this design, Hot end carriages have some free play when the servo is ON. due to single belt connect to carriage, this will curse kncoking sound when accelerating start and stop, but should be fine when u under 600mm/s, for corexy have 4 belt connect and much better than h bot, so i decided to do a upgrade to corexy, this task is essy for me :-D, this beast i build with the lowest cost by using metal hollow which is extra material from my other construction project , there is a wheel, should be ok for a human move it.

Quite the opposite actually, H bot is the correct choice in belt pattern for this style of machine. Corexy would be inferior in this application. Corexy is for a machine that lacks the rigidity for a proper H bot style belt system. No reason to make the total belt length longer and worse, have two belts you need to tension separately. There is a reason industrial engineers never use Corexy. If you are competent enough to design a good motion system, you never need to use corexy.

While the frame is very rigid, the Y axis guide rails are not. H-bot is more likely to experience racking when using flexible, end-supported guide rails for the Y axis. The corexy mechanism is a little more tolerant of such imperfections.

If the rails were rigid as well as the frame, such as linear guides screwed to a rigid frame, you might have an argument, but in that case, what would be inferior about a corexy machine built the same way?

In any cartesian motion system there will be at least two belts that must be independently tensioned. How is that a problem?

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]