CoreXYNZ build

Here's how it looks installed. It's a bit light weight and could do with a few tweaks, so I will do it again.

Nice! I like the duct to guide air along the board underneath the drivers.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

RodF,

Your printer is really shaping up nicely!

Would you share your design of the Duet mount/ housing? I have recently bought the latest Duet but I have not put mine in service yet and it would be nice to have a mount for it. Your design books about ideal for what I need.

Sure. There is a link back there somewhere to the fan source. I got 10 of them.
Edit. updated the files.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2016 04:50PM by RodF.

Awesome! Thank you!

Have been working on the redesign of the cable routing for the X axis. Also printing more cable chain. Also waiting on cable to arrive. I'm going to use RC servo cable 22G and 26G.

I love the look of all that printed cable chain. I'd make a pile of it and swim in it like scrooge mcduck.

Whoa that's a lot of chain. If you have any extra wanna send em my way

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FA-MAS
Whoa that's a lot of chain. If you have any extra wanna send em my way

I think I still need more Z axis is 400mm.

Here is the wiring concept for the X axis. It still needs a few tweaks but I'm nearly ready to install the XY into the Z axis frame.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2016 01:43AM by RodF.

Made some adjustments to the printed parts to retain the circuit board. Moved their position for clearance at max end points. Added a cable chain support.

Switch mount.

I've been slowed down with a new job and house renovation. However the renovation is over and the job is settling down so back on the Core XYNZ.
Wired in the mains relay for the bed. Mounted the XY into the Z frame. Hard to say if it has retained flatness but I am able to adjust it if necessary.

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RodF

Hard to say if it has retained flatness but I am able to adjust it if necessary.

I have a question about that, why the attempt at such flatness and accuracy when it was always going to moved, wouldn't it have been better to have built it on the normal work surface and do all final leveling once the unit it in its final location ?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 06:31AM by Calvinx66.

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Calvinx66

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RodF

Hard to say if it has retained flatness but I am able to adjust it if necessary.

I have a question about that, why the attempt at such flatness and accuracy when it was always going to moved, wouldn't it have been better to have built it on the normal work surface and do all final leveling once the unit it in its final location ?

Good question! I want to get it right at each stage so hence the effort. I think I will be able to do the final tune using the Infra red Z axis end stop. Hopefully I will be close and only need minor shimming to get it right.

If the frame is rigid, moving the printer won't affect the bed leveling or z=0 position. I move my printer every couple months - by that I mean I put it in my car laying on its side, drive it across town, take it out and set it up again - and just turn it on and start printing with no adjustments. The machine weighs at least 50 kg and has a frame made of 1.5" square 8020 extrusions. The bed levelers are bolted tight no springs and thumbwheels because they aren't needed.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

The Y cable chain assembly is still work in progress. I seem to make a lot of the parts more than once. I was interested in DD's machine weight of 50 KG so I weighed mine. It is 16.4Kg at the moment and I expect it to come out about 20Kg. Mine is only 2020 and is still not that torsionally stiff yet due to the long uprights. However the 4mm ACP on the back and 2mm Polycarbonate on the sides should sort that out.

Tuned up the Y axis cable chain and end mounts. Z axis chain is next on the list.

I recently started rehabilitating a 3DS CubeX Duo printer. The cable chain that connects to the extruder carriage is one of it's nicer features. Instead of the traditional approach as you have taken it turns the cable chain 90 degrees and attaches it at the back of the frame. That makes for a large, graceful loop that won't cause a lot of wire flexing and allows shorter wires because they don't all have to run through both X and Y axis chains. 3DS actually ran the filament guide tubes through that loop which is probably why they laid it out that way- you can't bend the filament tubes too much or the extruders wouldn't be able to pull the filament through them. You can see what it looks like here:



There is a very small cable chain running along the Y axis to carry the X axis motor and end stop leads.

I removed the filament guide tube completely because one of the most common complaints about these machines was brittle PLA breaking inside the tubes. I'll be feeding filament from above making it much easier for the extruders to pull it and much less chance of even brittle filament breaking.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

DigitalDentist that is actually quite a good cable chain design. It reminds me of the BQ Witbox and how it gets rid of than large plastic bubble on the Makerbot.

Hmm nice cable solution. I had seen it before but didn't really consider it properly. It is never too late to change so I will have a think about it.

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the_digital_dentist
I recently started rehabilitating a 3DS CubeX Duo printer. The cable chain that connects to the extruder carriage is one of it's nicer features. Instead of the traditional approach as you have taken it turns the cable chain 90 degrees and attaches it at the back of the frame. That makes for a large, graceful loop that won't cause a lot of wire flexing and allows shorter wires because they don't all have to run through both X and Y axis chains. 3DS actually ran the filament guide tubes through that loop which is probably why they laid it out that way- you can't bend the filament tubes too much or the extruders wouldn't be able to pull the filament through them. You can see what it looks like here:

SAM_0007.jpg

There is a very small cable chain running along the Y axis to carry the X axis motor and end stop leads.

I removed the filament guide tube completely because one of the most common complaints about these machines was brittle PLA breaking inside the tubes. I'll be feeding filament from above making it much easier for the extruders to pull it and much less chance of even brittle filament breaking.

I really like use of cable chain in this way. So clean and nothing that sticks out on top of the printer.
Could you think of what specifically could cause the breakage of brittle PLA in this design?
For example would it likely be in the PTFE bend after the cable chain? O in the cable chain as it moves?

What I disslike about CoreXY is that you can have this nice sized printer ex 400x400x500mm, but then you also have to account for additionally 10-15-20cm on top of that 500mm for the PTFE tube sticking out...

The filament was forced to bend 90 degrees to go from the bottom of the enclosure and up the wall, then another 90 degrees to go from the wall to the cable chain, then another 90 from the cable chain into the extruder. The smallest bend radius was where the tube came out of the cable chain and went into the extruder. Brittle filament doesn't like to bend even once.

The extruders had to work their little butts off just to pull the filament through those tubes, never mind squirting it through little nozzles.

I prefer to make life as easy as possible for the extruders, so I'll be putting a rack above the machine to feed filament straight down to the extruders.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Got the Z axis cable chain done. Now to wire it up. I am leaving the final bed mounting till I have the z axis moving so I can get an accurate position with the extruder.

Man, that is a LOT of cable chain. Are you sick of printing links yet?


Also a comment on your wiring, it looks really well laid out, and neatly done. I wish my printers looked like that.

I think I have all the cable chain I need, it was the clean up of each part that was boring. I am not the neatest person, so I took others advice and have tried to get the cabling sorted out as part of the build. Moved the power switch to the other side so I don't need to reach past the plug to switch the machine on.

Getting the wiring in is a bit of a mission. Nice fit in the cable chain though. Got colour matched cable protector.

That's the X axis and end stop cabling installed. Next up is the Xand Y stepper wiring. I've also got a heap of crimping to do.



Not a great shot but you can see the connectors on the X axis. I'm going to use 4 wires on the heater and 4 wires on the PT100 temp sensor.

Got the main wiring loom connected up.

Hi,
I don't post so often now (work, family, etc...) but you're machine look nice.

But if I can suggest you an idea like the_digital_dentist have already said:

Look at my printer:
[forums.reprap.org]

The 5th pictures, show exactly how to put the cable chain to having the 'shorter' path for the ptfe lining.

Regards.

Edit: Oups on that pictures you can cleary show a temporary shorcut for the ptfe tube, forget it, now it's inside the cable chain

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2016 04:46PM by zelogik.