Verteez Smartrap build

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verteez
Hey guys!

I have question to you all. Im in middle of printing no servo Jhead mount, and I wanted to ask how to use it when it will be done. I mean, after compiling the marlin, what then? Do I need to change something, set it somehow like before to work? Or just leave it and watch the magic?

Kamil.

If you can be a little patient, I will have a specially prepared version of Marlin for the SmartRap with no servo.
I am using it now, however it has a small bug that needs to be fixed.
I can give you a copy of the one I am using now if you can't wait a few days, you will just need to make sure that the head is above the build plate when using a G28, the fix will do this automatically.

I am using it on Printrboards, so the only thing you would need to change apart from your own settings would be the board number from 81 to 33.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

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regpye

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verteez
Hey guys!

I have question to you all. Im in middle of printing no servo Jhead mount, and I wanted to ask how to use it when it will be done. I mean, after compiling the marlin, what then? Do I need to change something, set it somehow like before to work? Or just leave it and watch the magic?

Kamil.

If you can be a little patient, I will have a specially prepared version of Marlin for the SmartRap with no servo.
I am using it now, however it has a small bug that needs to be fixed.
I can give you a copy of the one I am using now if you can't wait a few days, you will just need to make sure that the head is above the build plate when using a G28, the fix will do this automatically.

I am using it on Printrboards, so the only thing you would need to change apart from your own settings would be the board number from 81 to 33.

No problem, I can wait patiently

For now Im happy that I can finally print, so I will survive with servo version.
Actually, I finally get how it works, so it's not so bad, but it sometimes get it's own humor like changing Z offset

Another day, another problem.

So, I wanted to finish printing the new mount for my Jhead...but the nozzle clogged. The print wasn't finished, and my nozzle is in acetone, at least for next 12 hours

Another complication is that my extruder cracked again, I got one spare printed before, but This time I got a little crack in Y plate(hole for rod).
So not so good, and I dont have possiblity to print new one, because my extruder is in pieces. The tension is just damn too big, so much that I can't even assemble it correctly..

Eh. Will try something tomorrow.

What's new.

Ok, I have assembled the hotend and extruder again today. Extruder works fine, but not the nozzle.. I have started the print of J-head mount....and nozlle clogged after one hour, again?! How? Why It was clean..

I have lovered the current on extruder stepstick, will try also to lower up temp(now was 200C) and lower the filament flow in RH.
But for now I must wait again for the clean nozzle.

Anny ideas, or tips?
Also, what can I do to filament comming out of the nozzle to not sticking to it? Filament is curling and doing only mess, but when I remove it from nozzle, then it flow nice and straight for some time.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/14/2014 01:19PM by verteez.

Quote
verteez
What's new.

Ok, I have assembled the hotend and extruder again today. Extruder works fine, but not the nozzle.. I have started the print of J-head mount....and nozlle clogged after one hour, again?! How? Why It was clean..
Clean the nozzle by burning the old filament out. Hold the nozzle over a gas flame and let it get hot, but not too hot that it gets red. The filament will burn away and then when you wash in water it will be very clean.

I have lovered the current on extruder stepstick, will try also to lower up temp(now was 200C) and lower the filament flow in RH.
But for now I must wait again for the clean nozzle.

Anny ideas, or tips?
Also, what can I do to filament comming out of the nozzle to not sticking to it? Filament is curling and doing only mess, but when I remove it from nozzle, then it flow nice and straight for some time.

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Ok, the RegPye advice with burning out the nozzle was greate. I have get ride of that clogg, and started printing again.

I have printed some ghost, few parts of three heart gears, pe_nis model(don't ask why, silly bet xD), new no servo J-head mount and extruder simple- it's a backup, because now the stock one works greate 0.O maybe because of the micro crack in y plate near the rod? Who knows

Some photo of new mount. Im still tweaking with the software, bacause i have little problems with not correct head height where it should.






i like this red PLA

And now I know that when printing something with new mouting, there should be fan turned on, or otherway the arm will became flexible of heat and melt xDD

Okey, Im after my exams, but Im not happy..

My Smartrap died today after fixing the X axis plate. I have eliminated the bending while probing, but unfortunatelly my X axis plate has just got teared apart.
The layers just separated and The Z axis bearings are not holding plate and wobbling a lot :<

So, now I must ask someone to print me a new part.
I will post some photo at the evening.

Kamil

oops. too bad verteez,

If you can't find anyone, i'm going to print you a new plate_x.. no problem.

I just wonder why you guys want absolutely no bend ? I have here 4 smartraps in production ( to make smartraps and with the right marlin ( with a little hack i did) , I have perfectly plane prints. This hack add an offset to the last probe point ( because of the bending) . It's just a number to adjust to your build and it works perfectly for me ? I know purists would say it's software going after hardware problems, but .. well i'm not purist And remember, the all autolevelling systems that everyone is going after IS a software system to recover from hardware problem ( plate not perfectly aligned ).

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the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Hi Smartfriendz,

It would be nice to receive the part, but also Regpye has offered his help.
I will try to glue it somehow and if not, then ask for print. Now it's drying of glue on table..

Can you share your Marlin?
Because I have terrible problems with my Z offset, thats why I have tried to eliminate the bending, which now is acceptable.
I just cant calibrate the nozzle height propetly. After setting the offset the nozzle is always in wrong height at diffrent bed places. Where bed is lower, the nozzle is higer, where bed is higer the nozzle is to low and dragg the bed. I just cant do it, and don't know why. I will post some video in next hour, so you will see the problem.

Also i can't, don't know why, change the point of probing. I change them in Marlin, but they are always the same when I run the print..

Quote
verteez
Hi Smartfriendz,

It would be nice to receive the part, but also Regpye has offered his help.
I will try to glue it somehow and if not, then ask for print. Now it's drying of glue on table..

Can you share your Marlin?
Because I have terrible problems with my Z offset, thats why I have tried to eliminate the bending, which now is acceptable.
I just cant calibrate the nozzle height propetly. After setting the offset the nozzle is always in wrong height at diffrent bed places. Where bed is lower, the nozzle is higer, where bed is higer the nozzle is to low and dragg the bed. I just cant do it, and don't know why. I will post some video in next hour, so you will see the problem.

Also i can't, don't know why, change the point of probing. I change them in Marlin, but they are always the same when I run the print..

I will print you a new X plate the strong one that I use. It will be setup for GT2 belts. I will also print you the X ends as well with GT2 belt and pulley, and supply a Reg's hotend for you to test, complete with heater cartridge, thermistor, fan, cowl, 3 sizes of nozzle and limit switches. I wont include the bearings as you should already have them, and it will save on weight for the postage. I just want you to cover the postage and give the hotend an honest test and let us know the good and bad about it. It will be ready to post early after the weekend, I have most prepared already for you. Not sure what the postage cost will be from Australia to Poland, but I will find out on Tuesday.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/23/2014 09:28AM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Considering your extruder had broke once too, sounds like your suppliers parts are a little suspect.

Reg and Serge are good people to be so helpful.

I use the servo version of the Smartrap, and I don't have the bed probing issues that the servoless version has. I did have to constantly adjust the Z offset till I fixed the loose Z nut and loose bearing issues. Now it seems pretty stable again.

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madmike8
Considering your extruder had broke once too, sounds like your suppliers parts are a little suspect.

Reg and Serge are good people to be so helpful.

I use the servo version of the Smartrap, and I don't have the bed probing issues that the servoless version has. I did have to constantly adjust the Z offset till I fixed the loose Z nut and loose bearing issues. Now it seems pretty stable again.

I have bought the parts on Ebay, from MakerCoast. They are printed nice of ABS, but the infill 20%, so I think that's because of that. Theye aren't strong enough Now I regret it..

Also I regret now changing to servoless version. I just cant set it right, but Im close to printable spot. Will give it a try.

My only problem is the Z offest, where the auto bed leveling is not working perfectly. The nozzle is changing it's position in about 1/1.5mm height depending on bed position.

Regpye ? Let's print from the cheapest place to ship ? what do you think ?

But here i will certainly print the standard version , as i have them in sdcard in production .

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Hi Kamil,
Regpye's Marlin works fine for me. have you tried my config settings?

My config files are in my Build thread if you need them.


Serge,
The autoprobe pressure on the edge of the bed is the main flex problem for me aswell. Specially with the grid auto level. (then it bends 3 times) Though i solvet that by not probing over to far over the Y rods.
I probe X no furter then 70, right on top of the rods and that fixes the whole issue for me.

The X and Z are in my case rigid enough.

I'm going to test Regpye's hotend, he is making it now. I'm not going to print much until then, i dont want to break my hacked extruder before i've printed a new one.
I'm looking if i can write some documentation, though it's hard to figure out what makes sense to document now there are so many variations.

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smartfriendz
oops. too bad verteez,

If you can't find anyone, i'm going to print you a new plate_x.. no problem.

I just wonder why you guys want absolutely no bend ? I have here 4 smartraps in production ( to make smartraps and with the right marlin ( with a little hack i did) , I have perfectly plane prints. This hack add an offset to the last probe point ( because of the bending) . It's just a number to adjust to your build and it works perfectly for me ? I know purists would say it's software going after hardware problems, but .. well i'm not purist And remember, the all autolevelling systems that everyone is going after IS a software system to recover from hardware problem ( plate not perfectly aligned ).

OK, I'll byte... Where in Marlin do you set this offset for the last probe point? My larger prints are about 1mm off as well after the auto leveling. Is this "hack" in the current distro of your Marlin?

Mark

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BackEMF
Hi Kamil,
Regpye's Marlin works fine for me. have you tried my config settings?

My config files are in my Build thread if you need them.


Serge,
The autoprobe pressure on the edge of the bed is the main flex problem for me aswell. Specially with the grid auto level. (then it bends 3 times) Though i solvet that by not probing over to far over the Y rods.
I probe X no furter then 70, right on top of the rods and that fixes the whole issue for me.

The X and Z are in my case rigid enough.

I'm going to test Regpye's hotend, he is making it now. I'm not going to print much until then, i dont want to break my hacked extruder before i've printed a new one.
I'm looking if i can write some documentation, though it's hard to figure out what makes sense to document now there are so many variations.

Your hotend has been made and assembled it. I have also printed you out an extruder and will supply a hobbed bolt. Post them on Tuesday

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
smartfriendz
Regpye ? Let's print from the cheapest place to ship ? what do you think ?

But here i will certainly print the standard version , as i have them in sdcard in production .

I jumped in too quick. I have printed it all already and also made a hotend for him too.
He will get enough to build the whole X assembly, just needs the linear bearings.
That's the beauty of having several machines, it is possible to print things quick if the work is spread over many machines at the same time.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Haha, cool regpye you're fast indeed.

thank you

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Wow, thanks Regpye!!

BackEMF, also thanks for your marlin config file.. It's working, but I have still some problems with bed leveling. The nozzle is still not moved like it should be, about 1mm. Also, I can't change probe point on bed. After flashing Marlin with new ones, the printer again and again and again use the same old ones. So probably that's why me bed level isn't correct.

Thanks Smartfriends for help, but RegPye is fast like a lightning bolt

Kamil.

Quote
verteez
Wow, thanks Regpye!!

BackEMF, also thanks for your marlin config file.. It's working, but I have still some problems with bed leveling. The nozzle is still not moved like it should be, about 1mm. Also, I can't change probe point on bed. After flashing Marlin with new ones, the printer again and again and again use the same old ones. So probably that's why me bed level isn't correct.

Thanks Smartfriends for help, but RegPye is fast like a lightning bolt

Kamil.

I think I know what is happening, I may be wrong, but check that you are actually loading the new Marlin, because the flash program loads in the last source files by default. I got caught a few times myself with this until I noticed what it was doing.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

In Regpye's Marlin the EEPROM is disabled, there you must set the offset in configuration.h

Don't know about you, but I find it less confusing this way. EEPROM sure has some advantages since you can change it without having to flash the whole firmware. Though once you have the right setting then it is always ok, and you can't mess up the EEPROM setting by accident.

Perhaps Repetier users like to use EEPROM then Pronterface/Cura users? I'd like to try Repetier but installing it on Debian turned out to be a bit of a headache.

And you can turn EEPROM on if you do like it. Just uncomment it in configuration.h

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2014 07:02AM by BackEMF.

RegPye might be right.

For some time when I load the Marlin, the program is compiled, the lcd screen reboot, but in arduino ide status is frozed on uploading. So maybe it's the problem of this all. Sometimes my arduino ide also don't see the COM port.
I will try and use second laptop, maybe there it will upload propetly.

BackEMF,
thank's for writing about it. I have just checked it in my Marlin. I have the EEPROM disabled there, but Im still able to use it, somehow. So I can only assume that's how the Regpye said, that my Marlin is not uploaded propetly.

I like the EEPROM, mostly with the LCD, it's just comfy to use. But I will try to disable it. Also, Im using the RH, and I like it very, it's nice in use.
I haven't been printing on Cura since my printer started to do some reliable prints. Maybe I will back to it for one or two prints, just to see how it will go.

_____________________________________________________________________________

Also, I have question to you all. I have just printed one of the Three Heart Gears part. Overall the gears came out quietly nice, but the top surface is ugly, and I don't know why. In some height it's nice and smoothe, and then for a few layers it has gaps, or poor ugly finish.
Anny idea what can cause this?
Can it be because of 15% infill?







I will take camera from my sister and post better photos. Also will try to upload marlin correctly.

Okey, what I came to this morning.
My Marlin was indeed not loaded propetly, or at all. I tought it's because of pc, arduino ide, or other issue, but it was because of connected BT module to ramps.
Now I know that if I want to upload Marlin I must disconnect the BT module.

I have just uploaded the RegPye Marlin, but the axis speed travel was probably too high, because my fishing line was skipping.
I have seted up the travel speed like it was in servo version, and I think that it's ok now.

Overall it looks ok now, even the probing. So Im happy
I will run some test print and see how it will came out

Kamil.

Edit 26.05.2014
I have loaded Smartrfriendz Marlin, because the RegPye one was going crazy, and I don't know why. I think that's because RegPye is using belts and Im still using fishing line, also maybe I have messed something? I will try to clean this Marlin version from Smartfriendz github and add the RegPye changes, because it's working fine.
The probing is now ok, and Im able to set the Z offset correctly, but I still see that the nozzle is not perfectly moved up and donw like my bed is placed. I can still see that when the bed is higer, the nozzle is to low a bit, around 0.2/0.4mm, or something like this. I don't know whay it's not working..

I also saw that my X axis is tilted down to the side where is no threaded rod. I know that's it's because of not strong enough part and poor quality, so maybe that's why my nozzle is not lifted correctly? Will see when I fix this with new part from RegPye.

Also my Y plate has craced even more, I have fixed it somehow, but it won't survive next fixing. If i will be able to print new one, good, if not then I will ask RegPye to also print me this part. I feel weird asking to, but I have no other choice.

Miracle would be now a nice thing

Oh, I have almost forget, my Heated Bed has arrived but I will add it after upgrading the part's from RegPye and getting ride of this demonical bed leveling thing

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2014 10:10AM by verteez.

Ok, I have one big problem now, and I don't know why.
Because of this my bed leveling is not working, but how to fix it?

See the video

The problem is what I have been talking about before, that the nozzle is lifted where should be lowered, and lowered when should be lifted, so reversed.
What you can see on the video below happend to me just a moment ago, before it wasn't so much wisible.

I know that the X axis end should be lifted while moving far on the bed, but as you can see it's lowered. Whats more weird is that once it's happening, or other time Z axis is not moving at all when the nozzle is changing position :/
But while moving it up or down in Rh it works fine.

Anny idea what's causing this and how to fix it?

Kamil.

Does your bed still flex when you autoprobe?

Hi BackEMF

no, the bed is now ok.

what probing are you using? the 3 point or the 4 point? With mine, the 4 point was giving me troubles like your having, I switched to the 3 point and it's a lot better now.

Im using the "grid" mode of probing. I will try and set the 3 point, maybe it will change something.

_______________________________
Well, it hasn't changed annything. It looks like the data took while probing are inverted. :/

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/27/2014 03:36PM by verteez.

Quote
verteez
Im using the "grid" mode of probing. I will try and set the 3 point, maybe it will change something.

_______________________________
Well, it hasn't changed annything. It looks like the data took while probing are inverted. :/

Check two things.
1. Have you got your limit switch working correctly, it sounds like it may be open instead of closed. Or a broken wire maybe.

2. Is the Z motor set in reversed direction?

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

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regpye

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verteez
Im using the "grid" mode of probing. I will try and set the 3 point, maybe it will change something.

_______________________________
Well, it hasn't changed annything. It looks like the data took while probing are inverted. :/

Check two things.
1. Have you got your limit switch working correctly, it sounds like it may be open instead of closed. Or a broken wire maybe.

2. Is the Z motor set in reversed direction?

Hi Regpye,

The Z sevo is connected in right way, so maybe the limit switch..

All my limit switches while not home are oppened, should they be closed?