F0 - cooling fan Ormerod2 duet .6

Hi All,

First thank you Dc42 for all your work here and there that has made my RepRap journey a bit more structured and well its like the light at the end of the tunnel, and i hope to get there some day. So if you happen to see this thank you for all of your previous responses and prompt shipment of the mini sensor, that i have yet to be bold enough to put on the machine.

i finally have my Ormerod 2 running well with PLA, with the stock sensor.

I successfully printed many small parts in rapid succession by lowering the temperatures and printing on glass with UHU paper glue (the kind that twists out of a tube). I have also printed helical z gears that are very sensitive and I highly recommend that as an Ormerod upgrade - as soon as you can get decent parts print that - the prints will only get better (that would be Ian's helical gears).

I have tried to print other objects that have overhangs or that are very tall with small diameters, like shafts. These prints have failed since the they needed little time to print and I suppose the heat generated by the printing tip caused the overall print to warp and sag. To compensate this I have slowed down the speed in slic3r 10mm/s and have dropped the bed temperatures and the print head temperatures, and then have fiddled with the web interface to further modify these settings while in mid-print in order to make the print happen successfully. I have had enough success in these types of prints to indicate that a secondary cooling fan for the print head should help these types of prints a lot, and not require me to act like a nervous chef.

I have a fan from ReprapPro that is spare, from a hot end assembly (2wires) and was hoping to plug that into the F0 of the duet (version .6) where the PCB fan in now plugged in as per ormerod 2 build instructions. I have read that one can turn on and off this F0 fan by slic3r, even if it is a two wire fan. I would like the print cooling fan to work at F0 and then I would like to move the duet cooling fan in parallel with the hot end fan, which would always be on.

I am running the last sponsored Reprap firmware version 1.09. I have tried turning off the PCB cooling fan which currently occupies the F0 space on the Duet using slic3r in order to see if this would work, and then I attempted to shut off F0 using Pronterface with M106/M107 commands with no success. The fan at F0 remains on, i have searched the forum and did see that pwm fans and 2 pin fans could work? what am i doing wrong? How can I go about getting the second cooling fan wired in. ReprapPro left no instructions for this.

amyway. thanks.

helix

F0 you mean the top two pins(not marked) on the right side in this picture? If so it should work ,i have my fan connected to it and it works fine for me using slic3r(altho i use a 4 wire PWM fan ,but i did have a 2 wire fan connected to it some time ago).

Also could be that the fan is build in a way you cant controll it with Fan0 ,if you have any other fan try that.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2016 12:29PM by Darathy.

Maybe you should install a recent firmware version of dc42 or chrishamm. I recently added a second fan to my Ormerod 1 and it works.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

For objects that have a small section such as thin columns or the top of cones, you should either print more than one object at a time (drop copies onto the print bed in the slicer), or add a thin sacrificial column to the print that is as tall as the part. Space these separate parts away from each other on the bed and it forces the print head to move to and fro between the parts on each layer (or every other layer), giving the layers time to cool. Slowing the print does not work on small sections because the nozzle stays close enough to the entire layer to keep it molten, thus resulting in a blobby mess.

Dave