bed drawings laser cut parts

Hi.
My laser cut wooden bed twists along the diagonal which only amplifies the twist in the heater PCB. I really want to make a square bed that can sort out the twist in the heater.

I cannot seem to find any of the laser bed parts on the Omerod2 rep-rap git hub page.
Does anyone have them or can point me to them.

I did see the aluminum triangular bed, however that would not allow me to twist the PCB back into place.

Anyone else find this problem?
Many thanks.
Helix

Quote
helix
I did see the aluminum triangular bed, however that would not allow me to twist the PCB back into place.

This fixed the PCB for another user



Erik

Show me a dxf and I can see about cutting a bed from aluminium in 3mm-5mm thickness if you like.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

There are drawings available. I used them as template for my own design.
They are on Github. I can look later for them.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Thanks Treito, appreciated.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Thanks Treito, appreciated.

All the links for ormerod1 and 2 design files was posted by trevmas in your "Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits...." thread:

[forums.reprap.org]

..but helix seems to want a rectangular bed and AFAIK Ormerod 2 was made with the triangular bed only

Quote
helix
I did see the aluminum triangular bed, however that would not allow me to twist the PCB back into place.

dfx for Ormerod 2 (528.0 to 528.4) triangular bed attached

Erik

Hmm, ok, thanks.

Making the triangular bed would be no issue if it would help anyone out but as you say he wants a square one so I'm not sure how we can help there, sounds more like a damaged heater bed?

I can make a one-off square one but that would mean losing the benefits of the three point mount layout surely?

Could do a heavy sub-bed which would hold the heater on top and be mounted in the normal way to the three-point triangle? Getting a bit high on the Z axis though.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Could do a heavy sub-bed which would hold the heater on top and be mounted in the normal way to the three-point triangle? Getting a bit high on the Z axis though.

If I had that problem I would rather go for thicker glass, 4mm (what I use) or even 5mm - and lose the aluminium heat spreader to save weight, it not needed

Erik

Fair enough, just thinking out loud

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

I could maybe interested in a triangular bed support, but I will see it. The support of my Ormerod 2 was only printed. Unfortunately in PLA and that melted somehow. I didn't expect that the screws only would transfer such much heat which can melt PLA. I reprinted the parts in ABS, but I am unsure if they will melt or not.
If they will melt, too I will need an aluminium bed support.
To be honest I am unsure if I would buy it in UK, because of the high shipping costs.
This is an easy part and I would compare local prices including shipping with your prices. I also did this with the X-arm. Here were the costs equal, but your quality was much better.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Davek0974
Fair enough, just thinking out loud

Keep doing that - so am I, the more the merrier
BTW, to me helix problem sound more like a case of twisted smooth rods

Erik

Quote
Treito
I could maybe interested in a triangular bed support, but I will see it. The support of my Ormerod 2 was only printed. Unfortunately in PLA and that melted somehow. I didn't expect that the screws only would transfer such much heat which can melt PLA. I reprinted the parts in ABS, but I am unsure if they will melt or not.
If they will melt, too I will need an aluminium bed support.
To be honest I am unsure if I would buy it in UK, because of the high shipping costs.
This is an easy part and I would compare local prices including shipping with your prices. I also did this with the X-arm. Here were the costs equal, but your quality was much better.

The Mk2 bed would likely be that same cost as the Mk1 bed upgrade if that helps at all but i understand what you are saying about the shipping costs, its a real pain.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

The German suppliers had a big problem with the smaller part of the X-arm. You have holes in 2 planes but every company only excepted 2-dimensional drawings with a given thickness.
The second problem would have been the accuracy. There is one cutout for a screw which also supports a washer and a nut. I would have been forced to extend the other holes for the screws to such kind of cutout, but these cutouts needed a good accuracy and this ended in a higher price than your X-arm including the shipping to Germany.
The shipping costs are really a shame. I claimed a part coming from China. I paid 55$ for it. The shipping costs to send this part back was over 60$.
Okay I would maybe buy even two. I am not sure how to proceed with my MK1 even though it is equipped with an aluminium bed support from you, but it lacks of some holes if I change the printer to an Ormerod 2.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Thank you for the replies and the offer for the aluminum parts.
As I said there is a slight deflection in the heater bed, it was a replacement from reprap for one that burned at the solder joints.
I think that a four post bed will stop the front corner from twisting with the opposite back corner. Its a fairly steep. twist down and i'm not sure how the printer bed plane compensation deal with that, i assume it averages out a plane that is skewed and not one corner of the plane radically up or down. im not too worried about a three point bed vs. four, in this case the four will be essential and i have not found it very difficult to level up or near enough so. i have also purchased a 4mm glass, but there is still a slight deflection with three points and that glass, so.. i want to make it better, and the laser cutter is just nearly for the plexiglass othewise i agree metal is the way forward.

the discussions had led me to look harder for the dwgs . they were a bit hard to find since there are a few git repositories of information - i finally understood there was another repository i did not see the 924 or whatever number that was on the link above.
i probably will get another heater bed maybe a silicone heater, but for now i just want a quick fix so i can print some upgrade parts. the printer has bin sitting idle because it sucks so much time when things are not going well, i nearly abandoned it.

now i will upgrade all of it then let it sit idle. hahaha.

In my eyes it is not a good idea to use four mounting points. If you tight the screws wrong you can bend the bed or you have some sort of bulb in the middle.
If you use your 4mm glass you should have an even print surface. Maybe the heated bed will not have fully contact with the glass, but that should still do the job somehow.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Make sure that the twist you are seeing is really a twist in the bed. The glass should stay flat even if the heater PCB is warped. It is easy to mistake poor Y rod alignment for a twisted bed. If the Y rods are not exactly parallel in the Z direction it results in the front of the bed moving up and down when the head moves in Y, which gives the appearance that the bed is not flat because it seems to be too high or low only in one corner.

Dave