Printing replacement parts for ormerod 1

Although I have had my Ormerod 1 (the original red one from RS) for over three years I am still struggling to print even the calibration piece!
In the process of trying to get it working I have broken one or two of the plasic parts and would like to print some replacements.(or to be more precice find someone to print them for me)
I am confused about all the different file types!
I have downloaded some files from GitHub with .STL extension which I can view in a 3D viewer and identify the parts I need.
There are also some files with either .SLDPRT or .SLDDRW extensions which I have not been able to open.
Pronterface will aparently open .STL files but if I try to open it I get an error referring to Skeinforge:
Slicing C:\Program Files\OpenSCAD\examples\Basics\projection.stl
Slicing: python skeinforge/skeinforge_application/skeinforge_utilities/skeinforge_craft.py $s
Failed to execute slicing software:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "pronterface.py", line 1236, in skein_func
File "subprocess.pyc", line 679, in __init__
File "subprocess.pyc", line 896, in _execute_child
WindowsError: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified

I found and downloaded skeinforge and modified the path to it in the Pronterface options dialog. However the error message refers to 'pronterface.py' and 'subprocess.pyc' nether of which were in the skeinforge zip file!

I would like to make some slight modifications to one or two parts and have found a program called OpenSCAD in which the shapes are described in a high level lanuage. The source files have a .scad extension. Are SCAD files available for the Ormerod 1 parts?
OpenSCAD can export in STL format (I have done this with one of the example files) However, for some reason, although it has a .stl extension it does not appear in the file-open dialog from Pronterface! In fact it doesn't even appear in File Explorer though it does appear in the save dialog of OpenSCAD!

What else do I need to do to be able to print one of these parts?
I am begining to get rather frustrated with this machine, and if I don't get it working soon I will be throwing it in the bin with over £500 and three years' work wasted!!
Can anybode help PLEASE!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 06:58AM by PeterSimpson.

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PeterSimpson
..In the process of trying to get it working I have broken one or two of the plasic parts and would like to print some replacements.(or to be more precice find someone to print them for me)

I got a lot of spares with the used ormerod1 I bought from Mario, would be happy to see those parts put to good use, postage will be very low (<100gram = letter postage)

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I am confused about all the different file types!

For slicing before printing you only need the stl format

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I have downloaded some files from GitHub with .STL extension which I can view in a 3D viewer and identify the parts I need.

I find it easier to identify the parts by the support documentation ormerod 1 page at reprappro
[reprappro.com]

The in the documentation printed parts should link to github directly but the link is now broken, the individual parts seem to be moved, did a search but can't find them, can anyone provide a link please? (to the github....ormerod 1 design files\Ormerod-1.0\stl\individual parts)

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Pronterface will aparently open .STL files but if I try to open it I get an error referring to Skeinforge:

Pronterface is the official front-end for the ormerod and the slicing program Slic3r, any calls for a path to Skeinforge must be because you have installed that program instead

You could re-install the original package (pronterface with slic3r integrated) but I would recommend that you keep those two programs separated - will give you more control and understanding of the processes - use slic3r to slice the *.stl, transfer the sliced files to sd-card and only use pronterface to run the printer

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OpenSCAD can export in STL format (I have done this with one of the example files) However, for some reason, although it has a .stl extension it does not appear in the file-open dialog from Pronterface! In fact it doesn't even appear in File Explorer though it does appear in the save dialog of OpenSCAD!

I do not know much about 3d design but have managed to export and print out stl's from OpenScad so it should work, try to feed the file to slic3r directly instead - a faulty file should return a "file empty" fault (here's an example of a renamed jpg to stl file)

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I am begining to get rather frustrated with this machine, and if I don't get it working soon I will be throwing it in the bin with over £500 and three years' work wasted!!

1) Don't give up, every info you need to get the printer going is right here on this forum!
2) If you do decide to give up, please PM me and I will give you an offer for the parts and my paypal address for the £500 ;-)

Erik

Peter,

You have my sympathy.

My Ormerod 1 also fell to bits before I'd got many prints from it. The detail design & build quality was very poor - it was almost designed to fail.

As a consequence I've substituted metal for plastic for most of the frames. The parts which join the horizontal extrusion to the acetate end frames are just appalling & can't really be improved. Unfortunately when they break the whole printer is inoperative. I used aluminium angle which was to hand - Ormerod168 has a much more elegant solution which is visible on one of his posts.

Do you have access to metal working machinery? Even a decent drill & lots of care will do.

I absolutely detest countersunk bolts & have designed parts which substitute proper bolts where possible. These parts, built with decent thick perimeters haven't given any more problems. I have the .stl files of all the parts I needed.

If you want to modify existing .stl files could I suggest you download "Blender", a free & very powerful CAD program. It's not easy to learn but straightforward enough once you get the hang of it. I use it all the time. You only need Blender, Netfabb & Slic3r to produce .g code files.

You don't mention which parts have broken, you're welcome to any of my bits which are now redundant.

I also had problems starting, most of which were answered on this forum. Could I suggest you read my earlier posts where my questions were answered & leads provided to all the gen which should have been there in the first place.

regards
Richard

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ormerod168

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PeterSimpson
..In the process of trying to get it working I have broken one or two of the plasic parts and would like to print some replacements.(or to be more precice find someone to print them for me)

I got a lot of spares with the used ormerod1 I bought from Mario, would be happy to see those parts put to good use, postage will be very low (<100gram = letter postage)

[attachment 71937 ormerod1_parts_mario.JPG]

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I am confused about all the different file types!

For slicing before printing you only need the stl format

Quote

I have downloaded some files from GitHub with .STL extension which I can view in a 3D viewer and identify the parts I need.

I find it easier to identify the parts by the support documentation ormerod 1 page at reprappro
[reprappro.com]

The in the documentation printed parts should link to github directly but the link is now broken, the individual parts seem to be moved, did a search but can't find them, can anyone provide a link please? (to the github....ormerod 1 design files\Ormerod-1.0\stl\individual parts)

Believe this is the right link, mentions 384 and the commit message final update before Ormerod 2 release
[github.com] It has the printed duet enclosure, which the newer kits didn't use as it became a metal box.

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Pronterface will aparently open .STL files but if I try to open it I get an error referring to Skeinforge:

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Pronterface is the official front-end for the ormerod and the slicing program Slic3r, any calls for a path to Skeinforge must be because you have installed that program instead

You could re-install the original package (pronterface with slic3r integrated) but I would recommend that you keep those two programs separated - will give you more control and understanding of the processes - use slic3r to slice the *.stl, transfer the sliced files to sd-card and only use pronterface to run the printer

It's easier to open/load the g-code file into pronterface, than transfer to and from an sd-card

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OpenSCAD can export in STL format (I have done this with one of the example files) However, for some reason, although it has a .stl extension it does not appear in the file-open dialog from Pronterface! In fact it doesn't even appear in File Explorer though it does appear in the save dialog of OpenSCAD!


I do not know much about 3d design but have managed to export and print out stl's from OpenScad so it should work, try to feed the file to slic3r directly instead - a faulty file should return a "file empty" fault (here's an example of a renamed jpg to stl file)

To export an stl file from open scad. load/open the .scad file and hit the Key F6.
This will build the mesh model from the code upon the left in open scad.
Then click file > export > export as STL, save in suitable location on your computer
Then load the STL file into slic3r and produce the g-code, which then gets loaded into Pronterface.

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[attachment 71936 Slic3r_wrong_format.JPG]

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I am begining to get rather frustrated with this machine, and if I don't get it working soon I will be throwing it in the bin with over £500 and three years' work wasted!!

1) Don't give up, every info you need to get the printer going is right here on this forum!
2) If you do decide to give up, please PM me and I will give you an offer for the parts and my paypal address for the £500 ;-)

Erik[/quote]

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

Thank you very much Erik and Richard for your rompt replies and encouragement.
The parts I am looking for are the 'z-bearing-clamp' (2 off). These clamp the x-axis to the linear bearings on the Z axis. I think I can see one at the extreme bottom right of Ormerod168's picture. I obviously tightened the screws too tight and they have pulled through the holes, splitting the block! I can see why cua193 decided to replace most plastic parts with metal ones. I would if I could but I am useless at metalwork! Thank you both for your offers to supply these parts. I will very liely take you up (if you still have them) Please feel free to PM me.

Regarding the problem with Pronterface and Skeinforge I re-installed Pronterface and it now works fine! I can now print OpenSCAD files (theoretically!!)

The puzzle of the missing STL file (exported from OpenSCAD) was because nanny Microsoft wouldn't let me save it in the 'Program Files' folder!

Ormerod168 commented about missing design files from GitHub. I'm not sure whether this is what you are looking for: Ormerod 1 and 2 design files The links suggest that it is just the firmware source codes but it also includes all the STL files right back to the early Ormerod 1's. Unfortunately no OpenSCAD files!

As suggested I have installed Blender software, and at first glace it looks like a possible way of modifying the parts where only the STL file is available.

Thank you very much, Erik, for your very kind offer to buy the machine back from me. However, with your help and encouragement I will persivere a little longer.
Thanks again
kind regards
Peter

Peter,

No sooner said...

I also split my 492 parts & redrew them.

I treated myself to a 3d pen, now fairly cheap on ebay. It's very useful to repair parts while you make a better one!!

regards
Richard

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PeterSimpson
..The parts I am looking for are the 'z-bearing-clamp' (2 off). These clamp the x-axis to the linear bearings on the Z axis. I think I can see one at the extreme bottom right of Ormerod168's picture

Found 3 sets in PLA and one in ABS (dark green, right)

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I obviously tightened the screws too tight and they have pulled through the holes, splitting the block!

The design is a bit weak and the shims too soft to support the bolt head, cua193's design is much better, here compared with the stock version, cua193's highlighted yellow

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I will very liely take you up (if you still have them) Please feel free to PM me

Will do, the total weight of 2 sets e.g. PLA and ABS is 26gram and can be send as a letter so no problem

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Regarding the problem with Pronterface and Skeinforge I re-installed Pronterface and it now works fine! I can now print OpenSCAD files (theoretically!!)

There you go! :-)

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.. because nanny Microsoft wouldn't let me save it in the 'Program Files' folder!

Bin there, done that - I once got so mad that I pulled the primary hard drive, installed it as a secondary drive on another PC and force fed the file to that sucker - take that you bastard you he he...

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Thank you very much, Erik, for your very kind offer to buy the machine back from me. However, with your help and encouragement I will persivere a little longer.

That's the spirit!, Never give up, Never surrender! (activate the omega 13)

Erik

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orictosh
...Believe this is the right link, mentions 384 and the commit message final update before Ormerod 2 release
[github.com] It has the printed duet enclosure, which the newer kits didn't use as it became a metal box.

Yes that's it thank you! - I usually know my way around filesystems but find github confusing - this time I made sure to save the link together with the zip :-)

Erik

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cua193
Peter,

You have my sympathy.

My Ormerod 1 also fell to bits before I'd got many prints from it. The detail design & build quality was very poor - it was almost designed to fail.

Well, you can criticise the design, but as it is supplied as a kit, the blame for the build quality falls entirely on the builder!

I got one of the first (red) kits, and while I have since made many modifications, the original build printed perfectly adequately and to date has provided me with hundreds of very good printed items as well as expanding my horizons by allowing me to turn the most whimsical design into reality quickly and effortlessly. It is however not as straightforward as an Ikea flat-pack assembly, it requires some mechanical expertise, and there is a steep learning curve to be undertaken before you start getting reasonable prints, so it is certainly not a purchase that will suit everyone.

Dave

Dave, I had the problem that the original shipped parts of my green Ormerod broke. Especially all printed parts of the y-axis. I reprinted them and I had not any problems again. Unfortunately I cannot tell the reasons for sure but the layers could have looked better.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

dmount

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dmount
Well, you can criticise the design, but as it is supplied as a kit, the blame for the build quality falls entirely on the builder!

This is dissappointing, you have offered some useful advise in the past.

Have you seen my printer?
Have you shared my frustration?
Have you helped me rebuild my printer from first principles?
Have we met?

I suggest the answer to all those questions is no yet you have the audacity to suggest that i am talking nonsense.

This forum is not the place to make ignorant slurs on others, by making the statement in your post you question my competance, knowledge, experience, mechanical capability - even my integrity.

In answer.

You say your red printer is good - lucky you! Mine is rubbish, Treito has had problems with his, Ormerod168 has been obliged to rebuild his. I suspect there are dozens of printers abandoned by their owners.

Build quality is the concern of the manufacturer and supplier - I can refer to the build quality of my motor car or house yet I didn't build them!
What is at question is whether my printer kit was of merchantable quality - without quoting the Consumer Goods Act. It clearly was not; things of merchantable quality don't get thrown in the scrap bin. I refer to build quality not quality of building.

The concept of the Ormerod is good, the detail design is poor to unbelievably poor. Countersunk bolts are used where they are totally inappropriate; by definition a countersunk bolt exerts a force at 45 degrees to its axis, pushing outwards as much as downwards. This with poor manufacture causes the inevitable breakage. EVERY PART USING COUNTERSUNK BOLTS BROKE!! You can see on the photos that the parts delaminated, another sign of poor manufacture & non-existant quality control.

Look at the parts; the first to break was the extruder body, as can be seen this was made with very thin walls & ineffective infill at a point where it needed to be solid. It's designed with sharp changes of contour - even if were made from titanium it would eventually fail. I spent only a few minutes in Blender to revise the shape, built it with more solidity - the revised extruder gives no more trouble. Nuff said!

The z top has cracked between the countersinks, it bears on thin air - it's bound to fail.

The spool lock was broken when I opened the package, as was the locking tab on the extruder, no quality control!!

The original base clamp round the upright extrusion reminds me of a poster showing a Koala hanging on to a tree while the flood waters rise. As a piece of engineering it is nonsense; as is the silly little part which is meant to ensure square between both extrusions. It could easily have been designed to clamp to the outer rails where it might have done some good!

The original bed is just a joke - I wouldn't accept such poor design from a year 8 CDT group.

The whole design looks to have been designed by one competant engineer & the office junior. The main yoke betwwen the x and z axes is a brilliant piece of canny design, the office junior failed miserably.

I feel justified in my comments about the printer, they are based on actual experience, actual observation of existing parts. They are not a glib and ignorant nonsense statement based on nothing.

In considerable annoyance
CUA193

cua193 I said that my ones broke after more than a year and the printout quality wasn't perfect.
I took a look at your pictures. Most of them could have been caused by tightenining the countersunk screws too strong. That is and was a common problem. Chrishamm redesigned the z-runner-mount for example to not use countersunk screws anymore. Using countersunk screws especially with thin parts is a little bit critical. However some of my reprinted parts looks a little bit better thtan the supplied ones. I also got a new z-top-mount as my printer was delivered with some wrong parts (old version for a newer version of the printer).
I do not know how old your printer is and how long and often you used it, but there was a warranty of one year only. Even if the screws wasn't overtighten this shows that parts can fail and will fail but as long as you do not buy a printer where the costs are four times higher you will always suffer from this problem. Parts can fail and will fail. I reprinted my parts with other settings than standard to make them stronger but the costs are also doubled and the price for filament is already dropped.
Other cheap printers like the Prusa I3 suffers from the same problem.
You have to imagine that there are very strong forces during the printing and the parts have to withstand them.
I can understand that you are frustrated but a printer needs some maintenance and new parts from time to time.Meanwhile I have spare parts for at least one complete printer and more. Even lately my Extruder of my MK1 failed. However I could fix it, but I do not know long this will work.
Sorry, but in your case I would say that the screws were overtightened.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Having built this printer from scratch, I thought I would toss in my two cents. I don’t find mean-spirited criticisms to be useful. Rather than wasting time being angry at one another, let’s talk about the faults of the design and work together to improve it, so that we can all learn from mistakes and benefit from them. I chose to build the Ormerod after evaluating a few other printers, due to it's relative simplicity, low printed part count, cost to build, and excellent documentation. There are, undoubtedly, better printers out there, but I have yet to find any inherent design flaws that would prevent me from using it at all. The design is open and freely available on Github - anybody unhappy with the design is more than welcome to submit a pull request with an improvement, or fork it if they're unhappy with the response.

I find CUA’s comments about the quality of the printed plastic to be valid; however, my parts are fine and I feel that's ultimately down to the supplier. @dmould personally printed my batch for me, and paid great attention to the quality of the prints. They weren't cranked out on an assembly line as quickly as possible, as they would be from the likes of RS or Replikeo. Not a single one of them has failed on me yet.

My take on the countersunk screws is that they were chosen for aesthetic reasons rather than strength. Most of them end up recessed inside a plastic part and hidden from view, but in some areas (such as the y-axis corners), you'd have very little clearance for the carriage if the bolt was not countersunk. For other areas, they're a terrible choice. I'd gladly use a longer exposed bolt on parts like the lower Z, not because it's a stronger choice, but because I can actually do it at all! I'd love to use metal wherever I can, but I don't have the tools or the skills to construct the parts.

I think CUA has done an excellent job improvising some replacement parts out of metal - I wish I had the ability to do that!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 02:28AM by 0x0000.

Firstly, a big (albeit belated) thank you for all those who helped regarding my problems with the z bearing clamps, in particular Richard (Cua193) for designing a stronger part, and Erik (Ormerod168) for printing them for me. They work fine, and are a vast improvement on the originals.
After doing that, I decided to upgrade the X arm by fitting the aluminium replacement produced by Davek0974 (see [forums.reprap.org]).
I have now fitted it and it looks as though it will be a vast improvement on the original acrylic part....
...except...
I cant test it!!!!
The first few Ormerod 1 kits produced had the z nut trap in two parts - the printed part which fits onto the x arm which has just a M5 clearance hole, and a hexagonal cutout on the x arm which actually traps the nut. This cutout is missing from Dave's aluminium x arm. On later kits these are both integrated in the printed part.
The assembly instructions for the Ormerod 1 suggest that one of the first things to do is to print and fit the newer version of the z nut trap....
...which puts me in the same delima I had before! I can't print anything because I don't have a z nut trap, and I won't have a new nut trap until I can print one!!!

I wonder if one of you kind people out there could print one off for me (or maybe you have a spare) I would be extremely grateful.
I would of course pay for the part plus postage.

Thank you
Peter

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2016 11:26AM by PeterSimpson.

My printer may or may not be good enough to print it; I need a new one myself. Which STL is it - the same one on the Ormerod 2?

Thanks 0x000. This is what I need, I'm not sure whether it is the same as for th ormerod 2, but I guess it probably is.
Peter

You should use the extended z-nut-trap. If the nozzle hits the bed the Z-axis wouldn't get unmounted immediately.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Thanks Treito. That sounds like a very good idea! Can anyone help with parts and/or files for the extended nut trap?
Peter

I'm keen to try but my printer still needs quite a bit of work! If I get it going this weekend I'll DM you

General overview
[reprap.org]

Nut trap:
[www.thingiverse.com]

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Thank you both. I think Treito's extended nut trap version B looks to be my preferred option. I never knew there were so many improvements to the Ormerod 1!!!
I hope you can get your printer going theis weekend, 0x0000.
Peter

It's not mine, but it is a good improvement. Using the original one I often had to go to the printer to refit the Z-axis if there was a small problem.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

No luck yet @PeterSimpson! I managed to get my bed reasonably level and figure out "Z-home"... I managed to print the perimeter of the Z-trap, but I can't seem to extrude beyond that... it makes all the motions but the hotend stops extruding after a couple laps around the part. I'm thinking that maybe my nozzle is clogged, or there's something amiss with my extruder.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2016 06:14AM by 0x0000.

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0x0000
No luck yet @PeterSimpson! I managed to get my bed reasonably level and figure out "Z-home"... I managed to print the perimeter of the Z-trap, but I can't seem to extrude beyond that... it makes all the motions but the hotend stops extruding after a couple laps around the part. I'm thinking that maybe my nozzle is clogged, or there's something amiss with my extruder.

Do the gears continue to turn or skip after it stops extruding?

Dave

They do turn, there's no skipping that I can see. The current theory is that my print speed is equivalent to extrusion speed, and 80 mm/s is too high.

It's too high you shouldn't exceed 50mm/s.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Yes, I get skipping at around 70mm/s with 0.25mm layer height, 0.5mm extrusion width and 0.5mm nozzle. The thicker the layer height (and/or extrusion width), the slower will be your max speed (because thicker layers & widths need a higher rate of flow). With a 0.5mm nozzle and 0.25mm layers, 50mm/s is safe, but go 60%-70% slower for the first layer. You can go a bit faster with thinner layers. Smaller nozzles will need a slower speed.

If your extruder stops feeding with the gears turning but no skipping, it indicates that it is not gripping the filament well enough. The grip should be good enough to stall the motor in the event of a blockage or too high feed rate, and so you should hear & see it skipping. If it slips over the filament it will likely wear a groove in the filament which will prevent feeding from then on instead of causing a few momentary skips at the speed limit is approached.

The most likely cause is that your hobbed part has become clogged with plastic dust, so take it out and give it a clean and your extruder should grip again.

Dave

Dave, what Extruder do you use? Did you try to raise the printing temperature or the Extruder motor current?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Dave, what Extruder do you use? Did you try to raise the printing temperature or the Extruder motor current?

I have an Ormerod 1 extruder modified with herringbone gears and a PTFE tube in the feed-in (to prevent the filament wearing through the plastic). I have set the extruder current to 1000mA. Raising the print temperature may well allow a faster speed, but it will cause other problems with the print so I have not done so. My usual print speed is now 50mm/s which I find is a good compromise between speed and quality. I can print at 70mm/s, perhaps with very occasional extruder skips during large rectilinear infills, but this results in various quality issues with the print, the worst of which is that I often get breaks in the infill that curl up, with the curl-up causing bigger breaks on subsequent layers that that get worse and ruin the print unless I monitor the progress continuously and slow it manually as soon as I see such a break occur so that the break "heals" on the following layer.

I print in ABS, so it might not happen with PLA, I've not tried.

Dave

Currently I am trying 70mm/s with my Ormerod 1 to print some replacement parts for my MK2. Maybe the spring loaded Extruder helps. My current is set only to 0.8A and it seems that I have no skips. Printing temperature is 200°C. This is the lowest setting for my PLA even if I slow down the speed. Normally I only printed between 30mm/s and 50mm/s.
I hope my Ormerod 2 will be better. I will test GT2-belts if they have any afford.
One of my next prints will be probably ABS. I have one kind of PLA filaments that really needs an additional fan. With the original non-quick-setup-hot-end the hot-end-fan did the job, but I optimized the hot-end holder for the Chines replica for ABS so the filament from 3dfilaments.ie stays wobbly.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.