Cheap chinese E3D replica print head

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Treito
I just published my version. It is not tested at the moment.
[www.thingiverse.com]

Looks very nice!

Many thanks, but it is not practicable. I need to cut off a part at the bottom otherwise the heater block could melt the plastic and the cable duct is not usable. As I have enough cable tie ears there is no need for the cable duct (just tested). The sad thing is that Simplify3D has many problems with this design. I had watched this often but now it is very intensive. The problems also happen with designs from dc42 so it is not person or software related. Simplify3D sometimes closes holes after some layers. That strongly depends on the used layer height. And my ABS cracked so I should print with a higher temperature. Or it is poor ABS who knows. But I am on the right way. I hope that the nozzle does not get too deep so I will not lose too much building high.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I would like to do this mod on my Ormerod soon.

What would you say is currently the best hotend to do this with?

I still have the Ormerod 1

Bed is already 3mm aluminium.
The X-Arm is being lazercut from 5mm Aluminium.

You cannot do nothing wrong with an original E3D V6 or a good clone. The advantage is that there a some designs available to mount it to the Ormerod.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Thank you for the reply.

I am still new to the 3D printing worls and haven't even printed anyting functional.
I am still busy stabilising the machine and upgrading where needed.

So for now I would just look at buying a cheap good copy of the E3D head. But need some help in how to choose the right one.

If you are mostly going to print PLA then I advise sticking with the original hot end. It never jams. Whereas all-metal hot ends whether genuine E3D or not jam very easily using PLA, all it takes is a little too much retraction.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Ok thank you for the advice.

I have now reassembled the printer with the new revised aluminium parts and gave the printing another go with snowman.
I am using black ABS and bed temperature at 110'C and hot end at 240'C
I use hairspray for adhesion to the glass bed.
further I didn't change anything to the standard snowman.g file

I have extruder compensation at 246 I think instead of the standard 240

Here is the problem.
The cane of the snowman keeps pealing away from the bed.
Also the head seems like it is digging into the previous layers when printing.
I have manually levelled the bed with the screws and they all line up 100% now.

I have had an error where the hotened temperature showed some excess error. It happened before and I did read up on the forum here about it.

I have been searching youtube for answers but I don't know what to do as I have already calibrated the extruder.

Is there somewhere you can point me to where this problem has been addressed? I Think I might have found something here.

PS
What is the best filament to use with this printer?
I would also like to use Nylon for parts subjected to more tensile stresses.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2017 09:13AM by Karoo Klong.

Quote
dc42
If you are mostly going to print PLA then I advise sticking with the original hot end. It never jams. Whereas all-metal hot ends whether genuine E3D or not jam very easily using PLA, all it takes is a little too much retraction.

I can confirm this.

2.5 years into printing with ormerod, only PLA. I had 1 jam that was caused by torn ptfe tube inside the nozzle, not the filament.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2017 03:04PM by Sardi.

Wow that's quite good.
So you still sticking with the original horende then?
Ok so then I need to start figuring out what's wrong withy printer settings then.

Oh I found blue painters tape!
Will try that in my printbed.

Quote
Karoo Klong
Wow that's quite good.
So you still sticking with the original horende then?
Ok so then I need to start figuring out what's wrong withy printer settings then.

Oh I found blue painters tape!
Will try that in my printbed.

Yes, there is no need for me to change to any other type of hot ends for now. I even have 2 extra nozzles as backup just in case.

Regarding the print bed, one of my first upgrade purchases for ormerod1 was the aluminium bed plate

THIS ONE is 16mm longer in both directions, but if you find it in 200*200 I highly recommend you get it. I never printed anything on glass or blue painters tape. The model sticks like glue, and when the temp drops below 60C you hear the model popping of the plate and you remove it without any tools necessary.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,385182 - this topic gives more info about the user experience with this plate.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2017 02:30AM by Sardi.

Quote
Karoo Klong
I have now reassembled the printer with the new revised aluminium parts and gave the printing another go with snowman.
I am using black ABS and bed temperature at 110'C and hot end at 240'C

Take care while printing at higher temperatures e.g. ABS with the original PLA parts in place on the x-axis, those parts do not take much heat before giving in, esp. the X-carriage is known to lose its grip around the linear bearing, also the nozzle mount may begin to sag, so it would be best to make those parts your first print in ABS

Make sure slice and print the x-carriage with a solid shirt as not to tip over while printing, also a good thing to build a simple cardboard draft preventer around the printer while printing ABS (these are 3 year old pictures)



...and while the printer bed heat up, keep the hotend part away from the heat, homed or at least high up

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I use hairspray for adhesion to the glass bed

I now print on glass with a layer of ABS slurry (same color ABS dissolved i in acetone)

Used to print on kapton but the glue fails to hold the ABS and you end up with a lot of bubbles to be needle punctured and flatten - or change the tape for every print

Have tried BuildTa on glass, same thing as kapton, the glue will fail

Erik

I have been using this [shop.prusa3d.com]

and evrything sticks to it like nuts ABS Pla no problem and its quite cheap....

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2017 06:27PM by Darathy.