Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight
Posted by dc42
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 25, 2015 08:54AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 176 |
Quote
dc42
Yesterday I fitted VortZA's modified extruder with the larger radius. After doing a test print I left the filament in overnight... and it didn't break!Since it usually does break, I am hopeful that this is at least a partial solution to the problem.
The pneumatic connector is also working well. It does allow a slight movement of the Bowden tube, which is evident during retraction/un-retraction cycles, so I may add another 0.5mm or 1mm or retraction in my slic3r config to allow for that.
VortyZA, thanks very much for doing those modifications to your design! I have printed out a second one, and I am just waiting for more pneumatic connectors to arrive in order to use it.
Quote
dc42
I've now left a filament in the new extruder for 3 nights, and it hasn't broken. But it's a new roll of filament, so I've changed back to a roll that I know has caused problems in the past.
I'm glad that the extruder is working fine for you. Is the movement of the Bowden tube due to the connector or the extruder block tolerances? If the movement is consistent for every retract/extrude cycle then it shouldn't be an issue, but if it's a little random, then I'm sure it'll affect your quality!
That roll of filament that I said breaks on me has done it an annoying amount already - not sure how much I've thrown away because of that. Not buying from that manufacturer again!
I normally put the filament reel into a large zip-lock bag with desicant, but often leave it connected to the printer. For this filament I have to always unmount it.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 25, 2015 09:30AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
VortyZA
I'm glad that the extruder is working fine for you. Is the movement of the Bowden tube due to the connector or the extruder block tolerances? If the movement is consistent for every retract/extrude cycle then it shouldn't be an issue, but if it's a little random, then I'm sure it'll affect your quality!
It's due to the connector, and it appears to be consistent.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 25, 2015 09:47AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,159 |
Quote
dc42
Quote
VortyZA
I'm glad that the extruder is working fine for you. Is the movement of the Bowden tube due to the connector or the extruder block tolerances? If the movement is consistent for every retract/extrude cycle then it shouldn't be an issue, but if it's a little random, then I'm sure it'll affect your quality!
It's due to the connector, and it appears to be consistent.
Dave
You can often eliminate that movement by holding the tube grip out whilst pushing the tube in I think in the type you have that the grip is Blue. The ones I use (Norgren 4mm tube 1/8 bspp thread) are all nickel plated brass.
Doug
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 26, 2015 06:17PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
I seem to have the same Problem ,havent printed anything for several days and tried to print something and it started to do the skirt and the perimiters with no problem ,then the flow of fillament just stoped and i tried to move the fillament going into the extruder drive and i could just pull it out it seems it broke somewhere in the curve of the extruder.
DC42 let me know if the extruder from VortyZA fixed the problem for you.
DC42 let me know if the extruder from VortyZA fixed the problem for you.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 07, 2015 05:55AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Since I fitting VortZA's new extruder, I have only had one filament breakage in the extruder, and it broke in only one place. This is a great improvement on what what happening before. VortyZA, thanks very much!
One small problem with the extruder design is that the trap for the nut on the back of the spring compression adjustment screw is too large to prevent an M3 nut rotating.
I have now upgraded my second extruder to the new extruder design and pneumatic fitting.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
One small problem with the extruder design is that the trap for the nut on the back of the spring compression adjustment screw is too large to prevent an M3 nut rotating.
I have now upgraded my second extruder to the new extruder design and pneumatic fitting.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 17, 2016 03:26AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
I agree that color pigments change PLA property making it less flexible thus easier to break. Thus clear PLA could gives better flexibility. As my printer has only one extruder, I have to paint the printed part with acrylic paints. Opaque and clear Acrylic paints are available. Clear/natural PLA could help.
I think that if PLA is too dry, it becomes easier to break especially near the end of the roll. During the could seasons, houses are heated making ambient moisture in the house very dry. When PLA absorbs too much moisture, steam will be formed at water boiling temperature causing bad printing problems. So what is the acceptable moisture level range and how do we maintain PLA filaments in that range? I do not know the answer yet!
In case the PLA breaks after the printer feeder, the pressure between two filament feeding gears could be too high. Adjust this pressure to just enough to move the filament could help.
I think that if PLA is too dry, it becomes easier to break especially near the end of the roll. During the could seasons, houses are heated making ambient moisture in the house very dry. When PLA absorbs too much moisture, steam will be formed at water boiling temperature causing bad printing problems. So what is the acceptable moisture level range and how do we maintain PLA filaments in that range? I do not know the answer yet!
In case the PLA breaks after the printer feeder, the pressure between two filament feeding gears could be too high. Adjust this pressure to just enough to move the filament could help.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 17, 2016 07:43AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Meanwhile I think it has nothing to do where the filament stays overnight. I had the problem, too, but the spool was left outside. The filament broke over the whole distance where the traces of the hobbed insert were located.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 17, 2016 07:58AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
I have continuing problems with eSun PLA filament breaking overnight. What I find is that even the filament between the spool and the extruder drive has become brittle. So I now cut the filament right back to the spool before unwinding it and feeding it into the extruder.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 17, 2016 08:59AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight March 17, 2016 10:13AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
It may partly stop it. The problem as I described will be stopped probably, but the problem described by dc42 will probably continue. However I left eSun filament for some days inside my Extruder and I had no problems. Maybe it occurred only at older spools or only some charges was affected.
David could you please provide us a picture of your setup as you wrote that even the part between the spool and the Extruder is affected, too?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2016 10:14AM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
David could you please provide us a picture of your setup as you wrote that even the part between the spool and the Extruder is affected, too?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2016 10:14AM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 01, 2016 02:26PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 147 |
Ive never had the filament break inside the extruder, but sometimes i do see the hobbled insert mill out a chunk of filament, which then doesnt allow it to extrude anymore. I think my issue might be print speed though.
I always get my filament from PrintME 3D, I leave it connected up to the printer 24/7 and months on end (inside room temp, It didnt break even when the boiler went out for a month in December, the house got down to 12degrees)
I always get my filament from PrintME 3D, I leave it connected up to the printer 24/7 and months on end (inside room temp, It didnt break even when the boiler went out for a month in December, the house got down to 12degrees)
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 01, 2016 05:50PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
I think it's all down to the filament. I'll try a different brand.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 02, 2016 03:03AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Maybe it is a problem of the spring, too. I have not such problems with eSun.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 02, 2016 03:35PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 4 |
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 04, 2016 07:00AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 176 |
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 04, 2016 04:07PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
The roll of yellow filament I am using on one of my printers now will always break after about 12 hours of non-use, about 100mm before the extruder inlet. It sometimes breaks inside the extruder too.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 05, 2016 12:40AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Esun? What about your humidity? I always have a high one, maybe this helps.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 06, 2016 06:11AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 123 |
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 06, 2016 07:46AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 62 |
I have just started having a similar problem, the filament (PLA) seems to shatter if left for a few days. This coincides with me using an airbrush with Lacquer based paint in the same room. Cleaning the airbrush entails the use of some pretty nasty stuff. Just wondering if this coincides with anyone else?
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 06, 2016 10:29AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 893 |
I can't leave my PLA in my Prusa i3 overnight - the bit between the spool and the extruder ends up extremely brittle, and often broken when I look at it in the morning. I've experienced this with various brands, including eSun, in varying temperatures and humidity. My CoreXY printer has a bowden extruder, and I've found that the bit that has been through the extruder is often brittle - perhaps this is due to the indentations from the extruder bolt - but I have experienced similar problems with other bits that are "off-reel".
Because of this, I never leave either printer loaded with filament for an extended period, regardless of make of filament or of weather conditions. The material is off-loaded and packed away.
I raised this issue on one of these forums a year or so back - the answers I received could be summarised as "it happens - learn to live with it" (that's the polite interpretation!)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2016 10:31AM by David J.
Because of this, I never leave either printer loaded with filament for an extended period, regardless of make of filament or of weather conditions. The material is off-loaded and packed away.
I raised this issue on one of these forums a year or so back - the answers I received could be summarised as "it happens - learn to live with it" (that's the polite interpretation!)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2016 10:31AM by David J.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight April 07, 2016 04:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 68 |
I have rather large spool of ABS. It was in printer unknown time. I was able to extrude 10 cm and then it broke in point where it came off the spool.
While system was hot I pulled out the filament and with the filament part inside Bowden tube I was able to make a knot. The filament which is on the spool is so brittle that it breaks when trying to put it straight. Is there any similar hack like the video on Youtube where guy cooks his PLA filament?
While system was hot I pulled out the filament and with the filament part inside Bowden tube I was able to make a knot. The filament which is on the spool is so brittle that it breaks when trying to put it straight. Is there any similar hack like the video on Youtube where guy cooks his PLA filament?
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight September 21, 2016 04:02AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Now I have the same problem. My filament broke after leaving it roughly 36 hours inside the Extruder.
It was an eSun red PLA spool (not PLA+). The spool is a little bit older (about one year).
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
It was an eSun red PLA spool (not PLA+). The spool is a little bit older (about one year).
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight September 26, 2016 08:30AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 176 |
I've got some filaments that become horribly brittle if left too long outside of the zip-lock bag.
One reel of filament literally spits little pieces of plastic out the back of the printer if I unload it after it's been exposed over a weekend!
I'll see if I can get a photo of it - quite something to watch!
One reel of filament literally spits little pieces of plastic out the back of the printer if I unload it after it's been exposed over a weekend!
I'll see if I can get a photo of it - quite something to watch!
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 02, 2016 04:24AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Do you have your optimized Extruder version somewhere available?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 03, 2016 08:13AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 176 |
I'll have to take a look for you Treito.
My belief is that some filaments are wound tightly on the spool and when they are under strain because they've been straightened or bent in a different direction for too long they will break.
The problem is that the closer you get to the middle of the spool the tighter the curve must be for it to be 'relaxed', so there's no ideal curve
The reason I have for this conclusion is as below:
The grey on the bottom I had on a different spool, so I unwound it on to a different spool with a larger diameter because I needed the smaller spool for another purpose.
I came back after the weekend and found it literally shattered on the spool! This is inside a ziplock bag with desiccant.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2016 02:05AM by VortyZA.
My belief is that some filaments are wound tightly on the spool and when they are under strain because they've been straightened or bent in a different direction for too long they will break.
The problem is that the closer you get to the middle of the spool the tighter the curve must be for it to be 'relaxed', so there's no ideal curve
The reason I have for this conclusion is as below:
The grey on the bottom I had on a different spool, so I unwound it on to a different spool with a larger diameter because I needed the smaller spool for another purpose.
I came back after the weekend and found it literally shattered on the spool! This is inside a ziplock bag with desiccant.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2016 02:05AM by VortyZA.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 06, 2016 07:34AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 15 |
I propose you use the "itcher" (=extruder), which I recently desgined for my Ormerod in order to improve the grip into the filament (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1758033 - Spring loaded extruder for Ormerod). The hobbed touches the filament before it is bended and thus no print will fail any more because of broken filament.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 13, 2016 03:43AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
As the hobbed insert is hardly available I am considering designing an Extruder with a MK8 insert. Maybe the Extruder also should be placed onto the top of the Z-Axis so there is no extra bend needed.
On the other hand it sounds more than plausible that the spools with a very small inner diameter caused the problem. Additionally the Extruder bends them into another direction which could cause a weakness of the filament. It also happened with ABS from eSun.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
On the other hand it sounds more than plausible that the spools with a very small inner diameter caused the problem. Additionally the Extruder bends them into another direction which could cause a weakness of the filament. It also happened with ABS from eSun.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 18, 2016 09:32PM |
Registered: 13 years ago Posts: 13 |
Quote
Treito
As the hobbed insert is hardly available I am considering designing an Extruder with a MK8 insert.
Looks like you can still get them from reprapltd..
[reprapltd.com]
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 19, 2016 01:00AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Vertikar
Quote
Treito
As the hobbed insert is hardly available I am considering designing an Extruder with a MK8 insert.
Looks like you can still get them from reprapltd..
[reprapltd.com]
And from T3P3 [www.think3dprint3d.com]. And from emaker [emaker.io].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Filament breaking in extruder if left overnight October 20, 2016 02:47AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
At least it's not very cheap and the MK8 filament gear is much easier to get. It's only a thought, but the original hobbed insert is therefore no option for my own construction as I am unsure if I publish it. First it has to function well and first feedback on the design is very different.
BTT: Are there any clues if the breakage is less if the filament would be bend less inside the Extruder?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
BTT: Are there any clues if the breakage is less if the filament would be bend less inside the Extruder?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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