How to stop a print at layer end and resume it?

Hi all, I want to stop a print at the end of a layer, perform a manual operation on the printed part and then resume the print.
Are there some GCode M functions suitable for that? M1? M84?
How to resume after stop? Is resume button enough?

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Green Ormerod Fan

Improvements and tunings:
- aluminum bed with spring suspended bed and iamburny's Y belt tensioner
- masonstonehenge's spring loaded extruder with dc42's herringbone gears based on iamburny's design
- philiptemobster's extruder holder
- Abs made fan holder, X carriage and extruder
- 0.78 firmware
- dc42's IR sensor + led PCB
Tested and want to improve:
- laser cutting L-Cheapo attachement
WTD:
- double extruder (to use different support material)

If you're using RRP's official firmware, I think you need to insert "M25" before the Z axis moves to the last layer. You'll have to edit your G-Code file using Notepad++ or so.

If you use either dc42's or my firmware fork, I suggest you use M226 instead. This is the right code for this purpose, but it's still missing in RRP's official firmware.

When you're done, you can run M24 to continue your print.

Thanks, will try during the week!

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Green Ormerod Fan

Improvements and tunings:
- aluminum bed with spring suspended bed and iamburny's Y belt tensioner
- masonstonehenge's spring loaded extruder with dc42's herringbone gears based on iamburny's design
- philiptemobster's extruder holder
- Abs made fan holder, X carriage and extruder
- 0.78 firmware
- dc42's IR sensor + led PCB
Tested and want to improve:
- laser cutting L-Cheapo attachement
WTD:
- double extruder (to use different support material)

DC42's and zombiepantslol's firmware also allow you to specify macro files that are executed before and after a pause, and will remember the location where the pause was invoked so as to be able to return to where it left off no matter where you may have moved the XYZ axis during the pause. Using a text editor, simply search for the height you need to insert the pause (e.g. to pause at 12.5mm, search for "Z12.5"). It's great for changing the filament colour or doing things such as inserting fully embedded captive nuts, washers or embedded wires etc.

Dave

Quote
dmould
DC42's and zombiepantslol's firmware also allow you to specify macro files that are executed before and after a pause, and will remember the location where the pause was invoked so as to be able to return to where it left off no matter where you may have moved the XYZ axis during the pause. Using a text editor, simply search for the height you need to insert the pause (e.g. to pause at 12.5mm, search for "Z12.5"). It's great for changing the filament colour or doing things such as inserting fully embedded captive nuts, washers or embedded wires etc.

Dave

Thanks, that's really what I need to do.

---

Green Ormerod Fan

Improvements and tunings:
- aluminum bed with spring suspended bed and iamburny's Y belt tensioner
- masonstonehenge's spring loaded extruder with dc42's herringbone gears based on iamburny's design
- philiptemobster's extruder holder
- Abs made fan holder, X carriage and extruder
- 0.78 firmware
- dc42's IR sensor + led PCB
Tested and want to improve:
- laser cutting L-Cheapo attachement
WTD:
- double extruder (to use different support material)

Quote
5Dlaser

Quote
dmould
DC42's and zombiepantslol's firmware also allow you to specify macro files that are executed before and after a pause, and will remember the location where the pause was invoked so as to be able to return to where it left off no matter where you may have moved the XYZ axis during the pause. Using a text editor, simply search for the height you need to insert the pause (e.g. to pause at 12.5mm, search for "Z12.5"). It's great for changing the filament colour or doing things such as inserting fully embedded captive nuts, washers or embedded wires etc.

Dave

Thanks, that's really what I need to do.

Pause at the layer change that is 1 layer higher than the height of the top of the insert.

You may find it advantageous to coat the item to be embedded with gluestick, hairspray or solvent cement if the covering layer has a hole in it (for a nut or washer) which will thus print the perimeter of the hole onto the metal part before bridging. If it won't stick, the design can have a single layer without a hole over the nut so that it bridges well, and you can carefully clear the hole with a drill bit afterwards. If the threads of an embedded nut are blocked with bits of plastic that stubbornly refuse to clear, use a heated bolt initially.

Dave