Upgrade: Y-Axis Idler Bracket, adjusting twisted bars

I have made an modified Y-Axis idler bracket for Ormerod 2. I helps in adjusting the twist among the Y-Axis bars.

I got this idea after struggling to get my bed leveled. Getting rid of the wist was not easy by loosening the bolts in the Y-Axis idler bracket and carefully push it. The measurements went all over the place, back and forth.

So by using this bracket I could fine tune the Y-Axis bars in to being almost perfect parallel. I also extended the bracket 5 mm in the back since my original cracked had cracked. You can almost see in the photo that it goes past the aluminium profile.

These are the G32 results settled with.
Bed equation fits points [28.0, 15.0, 0.240] [28.0, 194.0, 0.251] [196.0, 194.0, 0.230] [196.0, 15.0, 0.220]
On my Ormerod these values are within the variation of just doing two constitutive G32.

I hope may help someone else.

/Tomas

On thingiverse


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2015 05:07PM by fotomas.

Brilliant Tomas, good thinking! - will a mirrored version fit right in the O1?

Erik

Good idea Tomas. I've been looking at my O2 and think I have a similar issue with levelling. I've modified my Y-idler bracket to have a spring loaded tensioner but may have to include a similar mod to this bracket.

I'm thinking of also making it have a base plate so that I can screw the printer down to the bench.

Does anyone know how the O2 is supposed to sit? Mine appears to just balance on the front 2 feet and the bracket under the Z axis. My Y-idler end at the rear is always 3 or 4 mm off the deck, Only just noticed this as the machine was previously sat on a piece of corrugated card which took up the slack. Now not sure if it is supposed to only balance on 3 points or not?

It is my understanding that it is supposed to rest on three points. That way it will always stand firmly even on uneven surfaces.

Modifying to include the spring loaded tension would be a nice mod to my mod

Bolting down the printer would have its benefits on keeping its calibration better but it would not work that well with my mod. The idler bracket has to be able to move and the weight of the printer is the adjustment screws counter force (during the calibration/adjustment). But that can surely be solved with another design.

I assumed that was the case, 3 points always being level. My O2 is in bits everywhere at the minute and I can't decide how best to screw it down to the bench. Think I may just modify the bottom Z bracket and make some restraint brackets for the front 2 feet. I can find the stl file for my sprung idler bracket later if you want. It's not very pretty but it works. I also have the SketchUp file if that is easier for you to remodel?



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2015 06:13AM by jsv555.

Sure, I Work in design spark but I can merge your sketchup model into it. Just send me the file. info(at)fotomas.se

Will sort tonight when I get home

Nice idea, I have had the same problems on my O2. Ended up printing two 4mm high cubes as support for the extruded alu in y direction and a 0.5 mm high shim as support that goes under the x-axis rod. I then strapped the front y-axis rod and the extruded alu with zip ties to a 16 mm MDF piece. Your solution was a bit more elegant

This looks pretty neat. Looking forward to see the merged version!

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I have a modified version for the ormerod 1 if anybody is interested.
appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified - Jan 2015 - based on a modified part from:-
johneato Y belt tension adjustment and
fotomas Y Idler Bracket - adjustment of twisted bars
Thanks to both johneato and fotomas for the designs




You will need to print appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified.stl with support for the adjusting boss overhang.
You will also need to print y-idler-bracket2.stl which is the tension adjustment fitment for the Y belt.

Have fun

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

Nice!

A tip:
If you add an angle to the underside of "my" adjustment no support material will be needed.

Here is the merge between my design and jsv555 design.
I have also extended it for reinforcement around the big bolts.

Hi JSV555 do you have instructions on how to put this sprung Y bracket together?

Many Thanks.
Mick.

Hi Mick

I never got around to writing any instructions, the mod was basically just a test that some people have picked up on.

In short you will need an additional bearing, the same as the original idler bearing. I left the original in place to make sure the belt was still running in-line. You will also need a longer belt. I think it is about 60-75mm longer but not near my printer so can't check at the minute. All the nuts and bolts are M3 afraid again I can't remember the lengths off the top of my head. I chucked mine together with whatever I had laying about (as you can probably tell from the photo). The tricky bit is findingthe right spring. I found some on ebay where a chap was clearing out his shed. As far as I can remember they are about 3-4kg strength (they are quite strong) expansion springs and are about 25mm long but don't quote me on that. The bracket was designed to suit the springs not the other way around. I've still got about 90 left so if you are in the UK / Europe I can stick some in the post for you if you want to PM me your address. Sorry I can't be more accurate at the minute. I can probably give you a better answer when I am near my printer

Jon

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2015 09:12AM by jsv555.

After running with my design for some prints I have a tip.

The black part is bolted to the printed Y-idler bracket with two M3 bolts.

It seems these can not keep everythin in place by them self. In the original design the black part rests against the aluminum profile and in my design it rests against the adjustment bolt. If the bolt moves the black part moves.

So... I recommend using a nylon lock but or an extra nut locking the bolt in place.

If you are trying this design please share your experiences.


/Tomas

Quote
appjaws1
I have a modified version for the ormerod 1 if anybody is interested.
appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified - Jan 2015 - based on a modified part from:-
johneato Y belt tension adjustment and
fotomas Y Idler Bracket - adjustment of twisted bars
Thanks to both johneato and fotomas for the designs

[attachment 47726 appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified-1.png]
[attachment 47727 appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified-2.png]

You will need to print appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified.stl with support for the adjusting boss overhang.
You will also need to print y-idler-bracket2.stl which is the tension adjustment fitment for the Y belt.

Have fun

I have checked appjaws-Y-Idler-Modified.stl, It seems to be to high, it don't fit under the bed... It's for O1? I don't understand...

You are quite right. I thought I had published my amended version.
I will post an update as soon as I can get to my computer.

Sorry for the error.

edit This version is no good for the ormerod 1, new ormerod 1 version out soon.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2015 11:42AM by appjaws1.

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

Deleted, new version for the ormerod 1 out soon

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2015 11:40AM by appjaws1.

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1