Laser cut Aluminium X-Arm & Rib kits....

Hey @davek0974! I have a friend with a CNC machine, but he's told me the holes on the Y-end DXFs are too large for him to cut and I've been working on some modifications for him to try. They're incomplete (maybe?) but I'd be happy to share my work so far. We didn't actually manage cut this yet... he hadn't done metal before, and we nearly started a fire cutting it!

y-axis-bigholes3.dxf

I have some X-arm DXF's as well, but I'm not sure if the filleted corners will work for the Ormerod.

Did you have to modify your X-arm and X-rib to cut it on your machine? I'd like to modify the DXF for him but I'm not sure what changes need to be made. Would you be able to share your DXF, or share what changes you ended up making to it?

Thanks!

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Davek0974
Hmm, tricky one then, is there a general consensus on the best version/design to look into?

From a quick look I think the Ormerod 1 version may be compatible for all machines with the extra slot for the ribbon cable. The position of the drive belt and end stop holes would need to be checked though. The largest holes from the different versions would be ok as strength would not be an issue. The last version was obviously an attempt to stop the acrylic splitting and provide more rigidity with the hooks into the extrusion.

However.... I'm not convinced that just replacing the plate will solve problems such as adjusting the bed and keeping everything square. You will still have the idler mount and motor mount as printed parts that hold the axis end plate in place and square. These are parts that tend to split at the countersunk holes and would in my opinion still allow some flex, with the squareness dependant upon the accuracy and strength of the printed part. I also found that the weight of the machine on the end plate foot made it very difficult to adjust. That is why I went with the idea of a frame to hold the end plates and remove the weight of the machine from them.

My mods are on Thingsverse if it's of any help.
[www.thingiverse.com]

Hi davek0974,

I've just placed an order for one of your X-arms with the finance people at work. If you get an order from the uni of Liverpool, chemistry dept, that'd be me. :-)

Cheers,
Bart

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trevmas

Quote
Davek0974
Hmm, tricky one then, is there a general consensus on the best version/design to look into?

From a quick look I think the Ormerod 1 version may be compatible for all machines with the extra slot for the ribbon cable. The position of the drive belt and end stop holes would need to be checked though. The largest holes from the different versions would be ok as strength would not be an issue. The last version was obviously an attempt to stop the acrylic splitting and provide more rigidity with the hooks into the extrusion.

However.... I'm not convinced that just replacing the plate will solve problems such as adjusting the bed and keeping everything square. You will still have the idler mount and motor mount as printed parts that hold the axis end plate in place and square. These are parts that tend to split at the countersunk holes and would in my opinion still allow some flex, with the squareness dependant upon the accuracy and strength of the printed part. I also found that the weight of the machine on the end plate foot made it very difficult to adjust. That is why I went with the idea of a frame to hold the end plates and remove the weight of the machine from them.

My mods are on Thingsverse if it's of any help.
[www.thingiverse.com]

Note 1
The big holes should be no issue, getting the size exactly correct will be an issue but only needs doing once once. If the rods are all the same length I could create recessed pockets in the thicker end plates to keep them captive, this means no screws would be needed and would look tidy, but the rods need to be of a similar length, I don't think they all are?

Note 2
Looking at the thingyverse pics, I see we have the Y end plates connected to the motor mount which is in turn connected to the frame?

That is indeed a weakness and I would look at taking the y end plates all the way back to the frame beam in one piece then mounting the motor on as a sub assembly. This would give max strength from the beam to the rods and also remove the stress from the weight of the machine on the joint between the motor mount and y end plate.

I will have a study of my mk1 and see exactly how this all plays together but there is room here for improvements. It may mean a new, longer belt and reprinted motor mount though.

Note 3
Thanks for the order Bart.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974

Note 2
Looking at the thingyverse pics, I see we have the Y end plates connected to the motor mount which is in turn connected to the frame?

Yes and no! Essentially the aluminium angle bolted at the sides and bottom provides the rigidity and strength. Everything else is bolted to that.

The y-axis end plates are fixed to the inside of the aluminium angle and can pivot on the top rear bolt for adjustment on the idler side. This bolt goes through the aluminium angle and through the motor mount or idler plate simply to locate it and provide a starting point for adjustment. ( Also because I used the idler plate and y-axis end plates as drilling templates.)

The other bolts secure the y-axis end plates to the aluminium angle through elongated holes once the adjustments have been made.

The position of the motor mount and idler plate is not critical but the belt needs to be aligned with the y-axis carriage. It is held in place mainly by the rear bolts through the aluminium angle into the extrusion. The only reason these are countersunk on the idler side is so that I could use the original bolts. On the motor side they need to be countersunk to provide the clearance for the motor.

The motor mount brace uses one of the x-axis end plate mounting holes for the front bolt simply because it was roughly in the right place.

The position of the motor mount may be critical for the cable lengths. So if you switch the mounting position for one machine type the cables could be too short. I guess that the Ormerod 2 could have a bigger problem.
However I would give some modified brackets at thingiverse a chance where the motor bracket is one part with the y- bracket and where the brackets are thicker and therefore more stable.
I can confirm that the original y-brackets easily break at the countersunk screw holes.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
The position of the motor mount may be critical for the cable lengths. So if you switch the mounting position for one machine type the cables could be too short. I guess that the Ormerod 2 could have a bigger problem.
However I would give some modified brackets at thingiverse a chance where the motor bracket is one part with the y- bracket and where the brackets are thicker and therefore more stable.
I can confirm that the original y-brackets easily break at the countersunk screw holes.

I meant the position is not critical in regard to the alignment of the y-axis rails.

For the stock parts the motor mount position and alignment is critical to the alignment of the y-axis rods because the end plates bolt directly to it. Any movement of the motor mount will make the y-axis go out of alignment.

For my modification the y-axis end plates bolt to the aluminium angle which is itself bolted to the extrusion at the ends and underneath forming a very rigid structure. If the motor mount moves or is misaligned it will not affect the y-axis alignment, only the belt alignment. There is no impact on cable lengths at all. Obviously for an Ormerod 1 you would need to mirror the idler and motor mount, but that's a simple job.

I do not think the combined end plates and motor mount addresses the problem of adjusting the twist in the rods. In my opinion it makes it harder. Any solution where the weight of the machine is directly on y-axis end plates that are printed, will I think have issues with adjustment and stability.

Just a reminder that the X-Arm kits are now permanently available should anyone want a set

Mk1 beds are still going too.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2016 02:12AM by Davek0974.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Bump for new members,

I can also do bed plates for Mk2 etc now.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Re: Y end plates
How about this for a solution:
1. Cut 10mm (2 x thickness of the end plates) off the length of the aluminium extrusion.
2. Make (or have made) two aluminium y end plates similar to the acrylic ones except:
a. at the back of the machine extend them another 20mm with fixing holes to screw into the ends of the extrusion.
b. at the front of the machine extend them another 30mm or so to accommodate another aluminium extrusion as per tremvas's thingiverse design)
3. Make a minor modification to the motor bracket to enlarge the countersinks for the two large screws such that the holes clear the screw heads completely such that these screws screw the aluminium y plate onto the extrusion, and nothing else.
4. Similarly enlarge the corresponding holes on the idler bracket at the other end.
5. If necessarry, fit an aluminium base plate covering the whole area of the underside, screwed into the extrusions and/or y end plates.

It seems to me that this would provide a rigid base to the Y axis and the machine as a whole with no complicated aluminium machining and minimal modifications to the printed parts, and no modifications to the steel rods or drive belt.

Please note - I am not an engineer, neither am I a draughtsman so please feel free to tell me that I am talking a load of rubbish, or to suggest any modifications which might improve it.

Peter

I think there are plenty of improvements to be made to the y end plates - mounting direct to the extrusion is a big one, extending forwards for another extrusion probably another, however, i don't think the solid under plate will bring anything to the table - it won't stop twist in the rods only diagonal movement which won't really happen if the plates are mounted securely to the end of the extrusion.

I might strip my one down and have a play if i get a chance.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

I am wondering how other printers get rid of this problem. Maybe the connection design is completely wrong for the rods.
As I found some interesting linear sliding bearings I am thinking of getting rid of the rods and adding a second extrusion at the front and using two sliding rails at both extrusions with at least three sliders minimum.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Following problems with my heated bed which my DIY efforts didn't resolve I ordered an aluminium bed support plate from ddmetalproducts (aka davek0974).
The problem I originally had was that on the alumium plate which is sandwiched between the heated bed and the glass, the holes in the corners were too close to the edge resulting in my attempts to tighten (probably over-tighten) the screws they tore through the aluminium and pulled through the corners.
I asked Dave if he could improve on this for me, and he re-produced the plate in 3mm aluminium and added i bit extra 'meat' to the corners (see photograph).
These two parts together appear to make a much more rigid and stable structure - Thanks Dave.
I would have liked to have said that I am now able at last to do some serious printing. But, alas, No!
The next thing to go wrong was the nozzle mount block splitting due (I think) to a socket cap screw going into half of a countersunk hole, but I think that's a subject for another thread.
The other problem is probably related to the construction of the y axis, but hasn't been mentioned by anyone - On one of the rods we have two bearings clamped to a piece of fibreboard by a couple of printed clamps. However tight I tighten the clamps something pushes one of the bearings completely out of the clamp leaving the heated bed unsupported. Has anyone else had this problem? and more important - did you find a solution?

Peter

I never heard of this problem. What Ormerod do you own? I have both versions, but my second one is not original. Therefore my bed carriage is printed, but in accordance to the original design. The clamps seems to be a little bit too small so I had trouble fixing it.
Regarding my one I don't have any issues or to be honest sometimes the clamps themselves break.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I have one of the first batch of Ormerod 1, the Red ones from RS. I agree the clamps appear to be a tight fit on the bearings, and (unusually for me) they are not broken. Something must be putting some cosiderable force on it to push it out!

My Ormerod 1 was originally green, now it is read except for the Extruder.
I may remember nearly at the beginning (I bought mine about May 2014) I had such trouble. In that case the clamps were broken, but it was hard to see at first. After disassembling it was clear.
My x-carriage also failed, but that was caused by printing ABS.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Glad you liked the bed Peter, I think it will be an improvement, sorry i cant help with the other issue

I'll be away for a couple of weeks, but orders can still be placed for the bed supports, x-arm kits and now the heat spreader plates

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Hi,

Sorry if someone has already asked this, but are these files for X-arm and bed available on github/thingiverse? I might have access to a local cutter, so if the .dxf files are available then I can have it cut locally and also experiment with the design too.

Thanks

Yes, all the design files for the Ormerod are on reprap pro's git hub [github.com]

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

What is the advantage for a bed for the O2?
I will soon modify my ormerod into a tall one and might consider other changes as well.

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----- Making the world smarter @ www.xetal.eu
----- Helping entrepreneurs @ www.fralke.com

The most important thing is that it is hard to get a kit. So if you want to build an O2 on your own you may need this kit. Currently I am testing a printed design with my O2. The first attempt melted (full PLA). Now I am trying it with ABS, but I do not think that will be successful.
You should consider using GT2-belts with 16 teeth pulleys. With these belts and the x-arm I was able to raise the speed. At 50mm/s no noticeable ghosting and I could raise the speed tzo 90mm/s. Okay with ghosting, but this attempt completely failed on my O1. My O1 only reached a maximum of 65mm/s.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Do have a dxf file for the X-Arm Dave? More specifically I would like to know the exact position of the circled hole, in relation to the first extruder slot in the following picture...



I have designed a version of jk11's Modicum extruder for the Ormerod, and would like to use that hole as an optional fixing point. (see here for some pictures)

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

Here you go.....

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Here you go.....

You sir, are a gentleman!

Cheers,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

Anyone happen to know if the Y cross-rib and Y-support from a Mk2 would fit a Mk1 machine??

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

it probably would if used with the Ormerod 2 bearing holders

You would also need to replace Y idlers on each side and change motor layout. Rods are not in same place as mk1 ormerod.

Ok thanks guys, that answers it then

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Now have aluminium CNC machined bed kits for MK2 machines

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

I'm interested, but did not see it on your web site yet. When will it become available, and how much?