By George I think We've Got It!

I found out the source of all my problems today. That pesky little nozzle thermistor had slipped half out, so my temps were way off. (Which explains the inconsistency)

I hope I have fixed that problem by bending the legs as shown in the first pic.

Second pic shows yesterdays deformed, blobtastic, stringfest along side today's effort. (A slight difference )

3rd, 4th and 5th pics are another 3 successful prints on the trot. That makes 4 in a row.

Lastly a quick question...

I got myself a digital thermometer today and I was checking the bed temp on top of the Kapton/glass and it was only reading 53 deg, whereas it was 65 deg in the web interface. Is that sort of difference to be expected? (I have from bottom to top, cardboard, heater PCB, aluminium spreader, glass with Kapton tape)

Thanks for all the help so far, it's really satisfying when things start to come together.

Regards,

Les

Good work Les!

About the bed temperature, it is a good idea to leave 5 minutes the bed at the setting temperature, so the glass could reach the same temperature of the aluminum plate

Quote
Pointy
I got myself a digital thermometer today and I was checking the bed temp on top of the Kapton/glass and it was only reading 53 deg, whereas it was 65 deg in the web interface. Is that sort of difference to be expected? (I have from bottom to top, cardboard, heater PCB, aluminium spreader, glass with Kapton tape)

The bed thermistor measures the temperature under the bed, which will be greater than on the top surface of the glass. With the bed thermistor reading 65C, after several minutes I get 56C on the top surface.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
The bed thermistor measures the temperature under the bed, which will be greater than on the top surface of the glass. With the bed thermistor reading 65C, after several minutes I get 56C on the top surface.

Thanks DC,

Sounds like I am not too far off then, I obviously expected some difference, but wasn't sure if it should be that much

Regards,

Les.

Quote
Zonzo
Good work Les!

About the bed temperature, it is a good idea to leave 5 minutes the bed at the setting temperature, so the glass could reach the same temperature of the aluminum plate

I did some tests and I found that after the bed temperature gets within 2.5C of target (which the firmware considers up to temperature), 2 minutes was enough for the top surface to get to within 1C of its final temperature. This was at 65C. So my setbed.g now has a 2 minute dwell command after waiting for the bed to get up to temperature.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Quote
Zonzo
Good work Les!

About the bed temperature, it is a good idea to leave 5 minutes the bed at the setting temperature, so the glass could reach the same temperature of the aluminum plate

I did some tests and I found that after the bed temperature gets within 2.5C of target (which the firmware considers up to temperature), 2 minutes was enough for the top surface to get to within 1C of its final temperature. This was at 65C. So my setbed.g now has a 2 minute dwell command after waiting for the bed to get up to temperature.

What would the code be for that dwell, I tried but it seems to ignore it?

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

The dwell command is G4 Pxxx where xxx is the required time in milliseconds.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Just got some feeler gauges and there is 0.20mm play between the bearing and X axis plate.

Regards,

Les

Just in case anyone wondered what that part was I printed in the 2nd picture.

Attached is a photo of it in place. This version is slightly tweaked, as I didn't need the cutout for the LED when using white PLA.

Regards,

Les

Looks useful! Can you post the STL and/or openscad file?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
Looks useful! Can you post the STL and/or openscad file?

I used Google Sketchup to make it, so I have zipped the skp file and attached it along with the stl.

Regards,

Les