US build

Quote

Did you update your underplate DXF for ebay.com/itm/3007393706… yet? There is note on reprap wiki about it.

Yes, the last version have holes for both the old and new PSU

Quote

I'm trying to figure out how hard it is to adapt your design to use a makergear or jhead hot end, which are available over here

That could be interesting. But it is probably not that expensive to order at emakershop just the parts you need (nozzle/heater-block/etc.) that could be mailed in a bubble letter (I received ten the other day like that).

shield : [www.emakershop.com]
nozzle : [www.emakershop.com]
heater-block : [www.emakershop.com]
barrel : [www.emakershop.com]
heatsink-block : [www.emakershop.com] (this one you can make it yourself with an m3/m5 tap and a 8mm square rod of aluminium)

If you still want to adapt an existing hotend to the carriage this thing is probably a good start : [www.thingiverse.com] (as we have the same x-carriage with the Huxley)

---

about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github

> That could be interesting. But it is probably not
> that expensive to order at emakershop just the
> parts you need (nozzle/heater-block/etc.) that
> could be mailed in a bubble letter (I received ten
> the other day like that).
>
> shield :
> [www.emakershop.com]
> nozzle :
> [www.emakershop.com]
> heater-block :
> [www.emakershop.com]
> barrel :
> [www.emakershop.com]
> heatsink-block :
> [www.emakershop.com]
> (this one you can make it yourself with an m3/m5
> tap and a 8mm square rod of aluminium)

Or just get the whole kit at http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=320.

> If you still want to adapt an existing hotend to
> the carriage this thing is probably a good start :
> [www.thingiverse.com] (as we have
> the same x-carriage with the Huxley)

Thanks. That's helpful.

I know the guy locally that makes these: Zen Toolworks Extruder and I've been playing with the PG35L extruders (such as this).

For the extrusion, I've gotten misumi 20-20 with 6mm slot.

I notice that I can't quite get it to fit the printed ends so I got out the calipers. The gap on the prints for the slots to go in looks to be 1.5 mm. The thickness of the aluminum pieces that slide in (that make the 'T') seems to be 1.9 mm on my misumi pieces.

Is the extrusion you are using slightly thinner, close to 1.5mm?

Indeed, you can still use the whole hotend kit to make an x-carriage like on the Huxley, but I prefer to use the heatsink to mount the hotend, eliminating the need of the ptfe parts and saving the 10mm we need to slide the XZ gantry after folding.

I will be curious to see your solutions

---

about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github

If you have any suggestions on altering the STL files to fit my 20-20 extrusion that seems to be thicker, I'd love suggestions. I've never made t-slot focused STLs before.

I left a 0.2mm clearance between the parts and the profile, with a well calibrated machine it's enough.

---

about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github

Hmm... Well, I've never had any indications before that my machine wasn't well calibrated but I'm measuring 1.55mm on my ends. This is in PLA too. :-)

That's odd. I'll try to figure out how I can address this. Since the end pieces are three hour prints, it is an interesting problem that takes time to check.

My calibration looks pretty good.

Waw nice prints indeed

If people are looking for printed parts in the US can I send them to you ?
(for the next batches I'll try to offer mostly hardware kits: since there is more and more printers in the wild I'd prefer to ship only what's hard to find and rely on the community for the parts)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2013 06:28AM by Emmanuel.

---

about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github

Yeah but the misumi extrusion still doesn't fit in my pieces. :-)

I think the issue may be the extrusion size.

How thick are the 't's on your extrusion? I'm using Misumi which has a 1.96mm or so thickness in the 't':



and then I have my prints, where I measure the gap:





I even have some pieces that another fellow made for me (from a slightly newer? rev, it seems), and they don't fit either:



So...there is .4 to .5 mm more aluminum than there is gap. I've got all my pieces in this size of aluminum. I checked your UK supplier but they want 38 pounds just to ship to me and this stuff doesn't even cost that much before shipping.

Can you measure the thickness of your 't's? I'm just trying to figure out if this is somehow a printing issue or an aluminum issue but I have pieces from two printers now and neither works.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2013 08:01PM by albill.

That said, the pieces that aren't made into triangular 't's seem to fit from the newest set:

It looks like with the current design, which has gone to a flatter 't' for the printed connections on the feet, I have four pieces that I need to figure out how to increase the gap on.



and it turns out that your gap isn't 2 mm after all. It is 1.5 mm.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2013 08:19PM by albill.

I moved the 't' slot plastic out .5mm on the four impacted pieces. I printed the first one and it fits!



If this works for all four, would you like me to submit the sketchup as a "misumi-sketchup" to your github as a secondary file? Misumi is the cheap extrusion here in the US that is 20-20.

Thanks for sharing all that tries, it's a great source of feedback to see someone else making one in another place

About the plastic T-slot shape, I started without, then when using this shape to make printed part that slide on the extrusion it could be a good idea to make a sort of partially press-fit assembly, saving some costly t-nuts.
But now I think I went too far on the calibration it require and I uniformized the recently simplified T shape to all the parts. That way we will have parts that can be used on both common US/EU extrusions (misumi/kjn), easier to print and assemble, while still doing the job to hold the extrusion with few t-nuts

---

about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github

Yeah misumi's are about 2mm thick, while motedis and others seems to be around 1.5mm

I remember PM from paoparts had the same problem the other way around with his Prism derived design : the plastic parts (designed for misumi extrusions) had 2mm tongues which forbid the nuts to fit in the channels.

---

Most of my technical comments should be correct, but is THIS one ?
Anyway, as a rule of thumb, always double check what people write.

The build proceeds (yes, one end isn't screwed in so I can slide other things on):



I had a question. What are these holes into the middle of the extrusion cross section in the bases for?



Nothing seems to screw into them but there are holes there...

Good question

They are still here, from the very first versions when I used M6 screws at the end of the profiles.
I left them because I often put my hex key in (and it could become a true storage with few tweaks : [reprap.org] )

---

about // liberapay // flickr // wiki // thingiverse - github