My Tantillus Variant

cns1 Wrote:
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> That is one of the finest looking printers I've
> ever seen excellent job! One question though if
> you were to expand the build platform to a 200 x
> 200 mm table for example why couldn't you just use
> 2 of the cable driven Z's on each side of the
> table with two steppers run in parallel? Wouldn't
> that let you keep the speed and "jerk" relatively
> the same to the smaller machine, and would'nt the
> 4 rods keep the larger table more stable than some
> of the other rep raps?

It may work that way but I would be worried about them coming out of sync and jamming as the went out of square. Although it should be better the a single larger cantilevered bed.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

So it only took me 3 months

I haven't finished tidying everything up 100% but here she is:





And here is a video of the head printing. Only issue I am having now is a void in the seam on layer change, I noticed this on my m2 running kisslicer also so this must be some kiss setting. (edit: wipe seems like the culprit)

Video of Zombie Hunter Head Print

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/27/2013 12:23AM by goopyplastic.

Nice print, I think I just saw that on thingiverse. Wondered what printer it came from...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/27/2013 08:08PM by lajos.

Looks good. I think it is the first variation of Tantillus (if we consider WWFP's metric version a copy).

The V at the end of the perimeter is from the seam crossover and is not related to the layer change (layer change happens after the perimeter is printed). In the new release of Kisslicer it has a small slider in the style tab called Seam Hiding and it goes from 0 to 1. 0 is the same as other slicers where it starts and ends the path right along the perimeter and 1 it moves inward on an angle the width of the perimeter. You could try lowering it and see if it fills in the V. With that said I think it shows up more a larger layer heights and at 0.15 and below for me I never have a V.

Wipe should not be leaving a V as it just continues along the path with the extruder off for the set distance.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

Wow! This is a great modification/re-envisioning of the original Tantillus design, will you be making a page on the RepRap wiki, posting instructions, and posting parts to thingiverse? I'd really like a high precision printer like this but the Tantillus is too small and Ultimaker is closed source.

On your github page I cannot find the 3d parts for the internal bar clamps nor the extrusion motor mount. Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks,

Riley

> On your github page I cannot find the 3d parts for
> the internal bar clamps nor the extrusion motor
> mount. Am I missing something obvious?

The extrusion motor mount is just the airtripper v3 it will work unmodified
As for the internal bar clamps I am using the normal tantillus parts for everything else.

I am currently working on different Z axis mounting (printing it right now actually) that uses a piece of 2060 for the Z and doesn't require the adaptor plates as the upper and lower Z brackets just mount straight to the 2060.

You need an edge branch on your github hehe. That's cool. I would like to see it. I have just about all the parts printed for mine. I should be building it up over the next few weeks.

Awesome, let me know if you have any questions would love to see someone else make one.

I think the beefy Z option is ready to go and I have updated the github, I assembled mine tonight and will be testing it tomorrow. Definitely overkill and not necessary ... but then again so is this whole project



@stratmaster458 all of the files are in my github LINK however it is currently geared towards the original tantillus size. The x/y and height of frame will scale just fine as is however you will need to come up with a different Z platform than the stock tantillus if you want to go larger. I am sure you could scale up the current build platform to 150x150 or so and use the stock parts just fine but bigger than that you will probably want a more substantial Z mechanism.

Cool. What is the height of 80/20? Also, I think you should pull in the all the parts that are not in your repo that your machine depends on. Like all the bar mounts etc. This would just be a nice to have for people wanting to build your version. I have everything printed BTW. I will cut the mitsumi today. I think I should be able to get it assembled. Minus the new Z. Where did you get the angle brackets for the z that mounts to the 80/60?

[www.flickr.com]

Where are the limit switches? I did not see any. Perhaps there are none?

I do not have a controller yet. But I plan on using our TinyG board to drive it all. We are still working on the extruder controller however.

Riley

@goopyplastic

That z stage looks fantastic, glad to see you're utilizing the cable z setup. I'm thinking I will use that system as well with the printed case.

The build looks great with the aluminum extrusions. How did you get everything square? With the laser cut case and corners things just square up automatically, but I assume with the extrusions there is some play with the mounting hardware.

Nice looking printer, but of caus I want to change something....
I cannot seem to find the Solid Works Pack and Go file. Is it on the git or where?

Greetz, Peter

goopyplastic Wrote:
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> Awesome, let me know if you have any questions
> would love to see someone else make one.
>
> I think the beefy Z option is ready to go and I
> have updated the github, I assembled mine tonight
> and will be testing it tomorrow. Definitely
> overkill and not necessary ... but then again so
> is this whole project
>
> [farm6.staticflickr.com]
> 6d1265_c.jpg
>
> @stratmaster458 all of the files are in my github
> LINK however it is currently geared towards the
> original tantillus size. The x/y and height of
> frame will scale just fine as is however you will
> need to come up with a different Z platform than
> the stock tantillus if you want to go larger. I am
> sure you could scale up the current build platform
> to 150x150 or so and use the stock parts just fine
> but bigger than that you will probably want a more
> substantial Z mechanism.


I will be actually! See I lasered parts for an Ultimaker two years ago but then they decided to close source thier printer so I gave up for a while until I got more interested in RepRap this past year. Around december when I was deciding what RepRap to build I got interested in Ultimaker again and was able to get a lead screw for it for 20 bucks, but I have again decided that Ultimaker is no longer worth it. Then I found your design and I like it a lot! When I am done with my Rostock I will be using it to make your model but using my Ultimaker leadscrew for the Z! I already have plenty of motors and some 80/20.

This is an awesome design, I have to build one. Are you going to release a parts list for this guy, I'd love to start collecting parts.

Also does anyone know what going on with the Tantillus.org store, I was ready to buy one a few months ago and have checked the store ocassionally to see when it would be back up and when I checked it lastnight it said it was closed until further notice.

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________________________________

Matthew LaBerge
[reprap.iceboxrobotics.com]

labmat Wrote:
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> Also does anyone know what going on with the
> Tantillus.org store, I was ready to buy one a few
> months ago and have checked the store ocassionally
> to see when it would be back up and when I checked
> it lastnight it said it was closed until further
> notice.

Sorry I planned to only have it closed for a few weeks when I moved (after becoming a dad) and i have just not had time to take inventory and restock etc. I am slowly building a few machines that i will be putting up for sale when they are done (hopefully within a month). I also had some issues with the Email address that I had posted on the site due to it being available to smart bots. So if you emailed me and I did not get back I apologize. Other than these few machines I am building I plan to stock the parts that are hard to get like the hobbed bolt, bowden tube and short linear bearings as people seem to have a hard time finding them elsewhere.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

Sounds good, I'll check back in a few weeks to see if any are available. I would love to add a Tantillus to my fleet of printers.

@goopyplastic

Congratulations! I believe your work is really above average. Your printed parts are just perfect. Very nice high quality pictures in Flickr also inspired me, your little Tslot-Tantillus is an amuzing work. I currently own a Prusa-Mendel (Ecksbot) by www.eckertech.com , which is a great machine to start from. After a 6 month research and my experience with my prusa, now my plan is to design and build a new 3DP, X-Y on top and Z down, wich I believe is the winner design.
I´m a mechanical engineer in Brazil, long experience in product development (Solidworks), automation, instrumentation, fabrication etc.
I intend to use Tslot profiles (most 2020). I want a 200x200x200 machine, maybe 150 in Z. My design may follow yours, but with T2.5 pulleys and so.
If you´re interested in exchange designs and solidworks files, we can partner. Please email me.
My gallery is here - [www.thingiverse.com]
Thanks and keep on the good work!
Paulo Blank
Brazil

Hi All

Courtesy post for Goopyplastic:
Rather than hi-jack this thread, I've started a new thread with my current design for a larger version of the T-Slot Tantillus. Posting here as it leans heavily on Goopyplastics design discussed in this thread.

Cheers

GoopyPlastics fine rework into the T-slot design is coming back together now that I found the time.

@goopyplastic, the corner brackets that hold the 608 bearings.
what is the diameter, is it a tight fit without play?

If I recall correctly, it is about 22.2mm they are a press fit but don't need that much pressure to go in. Granted I only tried printing them on my i3 which was only reasonably calibrated. Are you noticing them being too tight or loose? I know Arc Tesla has since printed the files he might have some feedback as well. I can provide different diameters if requested.

I am also building the goopyplastic variant, only slightly bigger and not using tslot profiles, but angle profiles and square tubes.
I can confirm they are press fit, but easy to press in.

Regards, Jan

Thank you guys for your response, I haven't printed them as yet. currently I don't have 3d printer, but will let someone print the parts for me. I like goopyplastic design, just wanted to make sure that there was no play with the bearing and the holder. This is actually my first 3d printer I am building, just wanted to make sure there was nothing to throw off the accuracy. @ goopyplastic, great design!

@goopyplastic

Is it possible you could post the solidworks files for the printed parts or you could email me, yonray@yahoo.com.
It would be greatly appreciated!

yonray Wrote:
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> @goopyplastic
>
> Is it possible you could post the solidworks files
> for the printed parts or you could email me,
> yonray@yahoo.com.
> It would be greatly appreciated!

It is a bit messy, so check the assembly file to see what part is actually used.

[dl.dropboxusercontent.com]

Thank you goopyplastic, greatly appreciated!

If you make a direct drive system like this I think you could use the stepper as the bearing for one end, kinda like Sublime's idea of drilling the ends of the shafts. You could still use a coupler but the coupler could be solid.

Have you thought about using belts instead of the string? It would make assembly much quicker. I dont know what it would do to perfomance though.

Robonz Wrote:
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> If you make a direct drive system like this I
> think you could use the stepper as the bearing for
> one end, kinda like Sublime's idea of drilling the
> ends of the shafts. You could still use a coupler
> but the coupler could be solid.
>
> Have you thought about using belts instead of the
> string? It would make assembly much quicker. I
> dont know what it would do to perfomance though.

Was there supposed to be a link to an example of a direct drive system? I'm interested in seeing it if there was...

Chuck

woops, posting too late at night,.I meant to post the message on this thread.
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?279,190661