Bed Material

Can anyone tell me how long the kapton tapes will last as a bed material ?
Can I realistically expect to remove several prints without mucking up the tape.
I know I read about it being pretty good that way, but long term how long does it last , are we talking 20 prints or a hundred or what.

As an exchange of info:
I am successfully printing PLA on a cold glass bed covered with a layer of Krylon Easy Tack and then construction paper on top.
Leave the paper dry side up. ( easy tack will clog the nozzle end eventually cause the filament to chew in half at the drive bolt or gear.)
Prints do stick to construction paper amazingly well.
The part is easy to lift off the bed after the print but the paper does stick to the object, although it is easily cleaned off with a little water.
You cannot use bed heat with this combo as the Easy Tack bubbles and the paper lifts.
Bed Clean-up is easy, just peal excess paper off then soak down with window cleaner and let stand, the glue and paper will wipe right off with a rag.
The cost is comparable to blue painters tape.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2013 12:52AM by Wallmaster.

I did not find kapton tape very impressive for use as a bed cover.
I would rather use painters tape.
ABS did not stick well as everybody claims, even with a hot bed, and I even tried cleaning the kapton surface.
Most prints came loose from the bed after a couple of layers.
Truth fully the construction paper method was better.
As soon as I get some high temp tack adhesive I will probably re-visit the construction paper.
For me, with a 2 foot square bed, 2 inch painters tape becomes a bit cumbersome.

wallmaster, I live in Strongsville, having problems with my Mendel max
where Cleveland do live. here is my phone number 216-316-9812
Tom G

I returned to using Construction Paper as a bed liner material, it works very well at 70 degrees celcious for PLA. ( I am using a 2' x 2' silicone heating pad now )
I do have to apply the paper and let the adhesive set up for a few hours first, before I print on it, ( I wait for a bit then usually warm up the bed slightly and cool to set the adhesive first, then let sit again.)

I am not sure why others find they need 100 degrees or more for PLA, I find it actually warps worse at higher temps that with no heat at all.
although I have found a lot of the advise I see on the net is really not good in the real world. Like MDF or Flakeboard as a bed, sheeze if you want warping then go for it.
MDF swells up for about an hour before it settles down to a warped state when heated. Terrible stuff to make a bed out of.
I use corian counter top, although corian will become pliable at 260 celcious as long as it has a good flat foundation it wont swell or become rippled.

Tom, I actually live in Toledo, I use the Cleveland forum because Toledo is too lame to have a forum....Toledo is also too lame to have any Maker stuff too..
I have yet to meet anyone else who owns a 3d printer.